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45 minutes and <$100 later, they are on their way again. The other thing is the upper control arm ball joint. If you have your hands at 12 and can push pull, thats likely the culprit.
I am thinking of doing the oil change. So many types and 5-30 10-40 I don't really know which one to put in. My honda has 133k miles. Some mechanics say the thicker the better, some other says put the oil the manual says....what do you think? :confuse: :confuse:
but you asked about engine oil right, or did i misread your post?
For the question Fukuyama posted, I would go with what the manual says for the weight of the motor oil.
Mrbill
on the oil change issue, I wonder if the mileage(133k miles) changes the type of oil to be used. any help on this? Should I use 5-30W or a higher grade 20-50W
The grade of oil represents viscosity, kind of how the oil thickness (water has low viscosity, maple syrup has high viscosity).
In the old days, the rings around the pistons and the seals around the valves would wear out and the car would burn oil (and the main bearings would wear, also). To minimize the effect of all this wear, thicker oils were used to cushion bearings and minimize oil burning from bad valve seals and rings.
This shouldn't be the case with a maintained motor made in the last 20 years. The same way your blood pressure can go up with high cholesterol, thicker oil raises your oil pressure which can blow seals, etc. It also increases friction in the motor and can reduce fuel economy.
Sorry for the long winded-ness but I would keep using what the manufacturer recommends, 5w30. Some of the "high mileage" oils have a slightly different detergent package and supposedly condition older seals and what not, but I am not sure. The Accord has had Castrol GTX 5w30 every ~5k or so for the last 150k (okay, 143k) and there have been no oil burning issues.
My experience: I haven't bleed brakes before. I have changed pads several times. I replace the radiator myself.
http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
Unless you are some totally anal freak who actually changes the brake fluid every 2 years or so
Anyone see any issues with that??? Whats the worst that could happen? I am assume too that the booster is good.
Had to replace and/or rebuild a number of brake cylinders, replaced a number of calipers. Master cylinders? Never even on our very old very high mileage vehicles.
Anyone know what may be the problem?
Any help would great!
Another questions for the gang here...the manuals says I should put tires P185 70R14 87S with 29 psi front and rear...The new tires I put are P195 65R15 89T.....should I use the same pressure the manual says? or it varies depending on the tires? :confuse: :confuse:
cheers :confuse: :confuse:
http://techauto.bravehost.com/
Click on "overheating" and scroll down.
That was the M/C going out. Within a couple of days, it didn't matter if the AC was on or off, and it would always pull very hard to one side when it was close to stopped.
T-stat is fine, the car runs at normal operating temp in the winter, and typically runs the defroster without the AC if its possible to get away with it.
:confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :sick:
But, presuming the valve cover gasket was put on properly, you might check your Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve to see if it's plugged up. If it is, you will build up excessive crankcase pressure and this will push oil out of the valve cover gasket no matter how much you goop it up.
Also check the gasket on your oil filler cap.
I followed your recommendation and after checking , I am impressed I drove from Florida to Canada like this.
1. I checked the oil filler cap, and there is no gasket or o ring around. :sick:
2. Since shiftright mentioned hte valve cover being too tightened down, Ichecke the 10 mm bolts and they were rather loose! :sick: so I tigthened them down for good(not to the extreme)
3. I was oing to check the PVC. but I was in doubt on how to pull it off..so please let me now how to get it out. Is it screwed to the engine or just comes off by puling it out? I checked the hose and it is sucking air in??(makes vaccum).
The little nuts on top of the valve cover are only supposed to be tightened to 7 lbft. If you try to tighten them too much, you risk snapping the little stud, which would be a major problem.
I checked the oil filler cap, and there is no gasket or o ring around.
The o-rings are under the rocker-arm assembly. You cannot see them unless you remove the valve cover and the rocker-arm assembly.
What I was saying was to look down the spark plug tube (you may need a flashlight). There are two seams which oil can leak through (one for the valve cover, and one for the rocker arms). Since the valve cover gasket has been changed, and oil is still leaking in to the tube, the o-rings are probably the culprit.
To check the PCV valve, squeeze the hose with a pair of pliers, if you hear the little ball rattle around the PCV is working.
To check the PCV valve, squeeze the hose with a pair of pliers, if you hear the little ball rattle around the PCV is working.
i did the hose trick on the pvc, but the hose is not too flexible so i was afraid of breaking it. That is why I wanted to pull the pvc out. I could see some oil aroung the o ring under the pvc though.
he little nuts on top of the valve cover are only supposed to be tightened to 7 lbft. If you try to tighten them too much, you risk snapping the little stud, which would be a major problem.
there were too loose(I could move them with my fingers)so I tigthened them carefully(I had read a cooment about this on this forum, and the o ring issue you have mentioned before). I fit is that, there is nothing I can do but take it to a mechanic
I was bleeding my brakes per another posting and successfully did that but I noticed the passenger side outer CV joint boot was split. The grease was all over. I don't hear any clicking and haven't. I don't think I have been driving very long with it split. My thought is to just change all 4 boots now. The question I have besides how to do that, is should I change all for boots with replacment boots (Cheap option)? use a split boot to fix it (even cheaper), or replace both axles ($$??)? I plan on doing the work my self, I think, pending costs.
Any thoughts? 145k miles on car.
A second choice, lower cost, more labor intensive and with slightly higher risk, is to remove the axle and rebuild/repack the CV and install a new boot. Once the boot breaks, all the grease is contaminated and you have to clean the old stuff out before you can put the new stuff in. Also, if the joint was damaged by driving with low/no/bad grease, it will never be 100%.
A third choice is to wipe off all the grease you can, apply new grease and throw one of those "split-boot" covers on there. This is the cheapest, but also the riskiest and least durable.
I have replaced an axle and rebuilt an axle, neither are particularly hard, the most challenging part for me was to get the axle nut off the hub.
Lilengineerboy - Any tips with the hub nut? Long breaker bar? Any other tools I may need? Puller?
I broke a Craftsman 22" breaker bar with a 3' pipe over handle. That was ultimately why I got an air compressor/impact wrench. I have heard of people wedging the wrench on the ground and driving forward, but that wrench can break and fly off and hit someone or the car or what not. I believe the torque spec for the nut is <200 fl-lbs so it really shouldn't be *that* hard to get off.
You will need a puller to separate the lower ball joint so you can get the axle through the spindle. I didn't need a puller for the axle itself though. The car has a manual transmission so the procedure might be different for an automatic, but I remember having to drain it before pulling the axle out (actually, on a previous vehicle I remember not draining it and it emptying on my face as I laid upside down under the car... :sick: I smelled of 100k trans fluid for a week.
Oh, and make sure you replace the hardware on the axle (one of the cars used a clip on the end to snap into the trans, I can't remember which one now).
The disadvantage to this approach, is that you won't be able to buy the parts ahead of time, until you figure out what you really need.....so the vehicle will be out of commission longer. The advantage is that you buy and repair only what you need to. If this is a 2nd or 3rd vehicle, then just take it apart to figure out what is really needed.
I bought the "Quick Boot" and tried that on. Its messy, doens't fit right, the steel bands are crap. Furthermore, the boot is too big, it seems. I think its going to rub on the fork while I drive it. OK - So I bought a new axle. Got the HUB NUT OFF! Not easy or safe. I am stuck on the lower control arm to knuckle ball joint. The Haynes book says use a puller to remove it. I have tried with not success. I think my puller may not be big enough. Any advice, tricks, tips?? I am so close.