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Thanks Chestnut, I read your post eariler in the thread as well.
user777, regardless, the SRS light stays on...Hmm, this is news to me...Hopefully, the errror code can be read at auto-zone armed with I can talk to Honda...My VIN does not have a recall for the said problem is what I am told.
The dealer basically told me the same thing, if its a seat belt related issue, they will not charge me otherwise, running the safety test JUST TO LET ME KNOW what was wrong will cost me $100.
This is unfair and trying to Honda to waive this fee for me...My case has been forwarded to the regional manager who will decide it on a case by case basis...I will write back what happened...
To screw up yourself and pay up is one thing.
To start the car and SRS light pop up and a day of researching on the net and staring at $800-1300 which for NO FAULT of yours is another.sigh.
Thanks to both of you...
no, i'm not thinking seat-belt, i'm thinking pressure sensor in the seat.
I understand the pressure sensor in the seat and see if adding more weight helps remove the issue(last known weight was more than 125lbs on the passenger, I am around 150lbs).
Got the bulb at Honda dealer for $3.
Good luck.
It is fairly cold here in NJ. It has been for the last week. I just started it at lunch and had this louder than normal humming/straining type of sound when idling and it continued on as I drove. I had the timing belt and water pump replaced at 92,000 miles.
Have you found any new explanations?
As in my 88 Accord, I'm assuming your 01 monitors the brake lights for burned out bulbs. If the contacts on the bulb are corroded for some reason and it's making a poor contact, closing the trunk could shake things to make it fail. Check to make sure the brake lamps are all working. I also found on my 88 that changing a bad bulb with the ignition ON doesn't reset the system. You have to shut off the ignition once the bad bulb is located and replaced to reset the bulb monitor.
Mrbill
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=4DR+EXV6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=ALTERNATOR+- %28DELPHI%29+%28V6%29
$500 for an alternator? that's insane.
Thanks!
I've read of very few problems with the 2002 Accord V6 transmission.
Are there instructions to do this (relatively) simple repair?
Thanks all.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=INSTRUMENT+PA- NEL+GARNISH
At any rate they looked the car over and told me in addition to what I requested they told me I need to replace two broken engine mounts (front and side) and that I also need a throtle body cleaning. Then he told me that my brakes are aftermarket non honda OEM pads and rotors and he recommends replacing with Honda Components. I JUST BOUGHT THIS CAR LAST WEEK FOR $9400. I asked how the wear looks and he said the pads had plenty of life but again they werent Honda and wouldn't "agree" with my Honda parts.
I choose to have the tranny flush and fill, yes it was a three time fill and flush i asked. I also had the throttle cleaning done along with the four wheel alignment. He recommended a power steering flush and clean as well which I agreed too.. So in all I got
Power Steering Flush and Fill
Transmission Flush and Fill
Four Wheel Alignment
Throttle Body cleaning
Oil Change
And Some other 19PT inspection it said.
All of that cost me $580, it sounded way high, but Honda Trannys need Honda Fluid so I was screwed. Is this high to anyone else? Also, do I really need to replace these motor mounts of are they BS-ing me? Thanks and Happy Motoring!!
Transmission Flush and Fill
Four Wheel Alignment
Throttle Body cleaning
Oil Change
And Some other 19PT inspection it said.
All of that cost me $580, "
My Opinions:
-Power steering probably never needs 'flushed' for the life of the car. The power unit or line will probably need replacing or leak
before 'flushing' might be useful.
-Transmission flush,if you don't know the history was ok. And, yes, this is one of the places you need to use Honda fluid, it seems to be somewhat unique. Should be good for 60,000 more miles now.
-Was the car 'pulling' or tires wearing unevenly? If not, this could have been a waste of money.
-Was there any 'check engine light'? Any 'sticking' of the throttle? And idle problems? If none, this was probably unneeded.
-Oil (and filter?) change is ok of course. Did they use the specified oil? My local Honda dealer said they 'use 10W-30 for everything'. Asked what about the 5W-20 in the manual? Didn't have much to say. I change my own oil and filter.
-19 Point inspection. If they charged you for this, it was a rip off. While they were under there changing the oil, I guarantee if they saw something that they think they could talk you into getting repaired, you would have heard about it.
If your brake pads are ok, they are definitely trying to rip you off recommending you change to Honda pads. Any of you Honda people want to try to give a decent reason why this should be done, except to make money for the dealership?
Considering I feel the dealership was attempting to 'maximize' your expenditure on this car (replacing good pad because they were not Honda), what I would recommmend is taking the car to an independent shop. Try to ask around and see if there is one that people think is trustworthy and skilled (woooo, what to hope for!)
Broken motor mounts should definite make some kind of noise you could hear, especially 2 of them. When dropping into gear from park/nuetral, (or releasing the clutch on a manual) should give you some unnatural noise or shudder. Strong acceleration and/or deceleration might also give noises you could hear. Open the hood and have someone drop the tranny into drive/reverse or let the clutch out while holding the brake securely. Did the motor appear to 'twist' more than it probably should? Did you hear a thump/noise?
The tranny didnt shift smoothly from park into gear before the flush. Now it doesnt make a sound or rock the car like before, I didnt know the history that was why I had it done. As for the alignment that was the main reason I took it in. It was pulling pretty hard to the left, couldnt tell what it was because the dealer I bought it from had brand new tires put on it. The Honda Service advisor told me the Toe up front was "drastically off" it doesnt pull at all now that I can tell. No idle problems or check engine light was on. The throttle did feel stiff however, noticibly so since the two weeks I have had it. Much better now. The service advisor said the stiff pedal can be caused by motor mounts!? How can that be, but whatever they would know.
MOUNTS: I have not noticed any vibrations at all while driving, it is silky smooth. Under the hood I turned the throttle and the engine did rock a little with reving but not drastically so, and the fan isnt rubbing. I would think it would with "BROKEN" mounts. The car was in park though, not gear. Mind you Honda stated that they were BROKEN not WORN. Didnt ask about the oil they put in, figured a Honda tech would know better. It says on my invoice HONDA SYNTHETIC BLEND/FILTER... thats it. Another question. I was told synthetic lasts longer than most normal oil like 7500 miles. The sticker on the window recommends I get it changed again in 3000 miles, I am starting to wonder if they used synthetic at all. HAHAHA thanks for the great feedback and happy motoring.
If the mounts are bad and were causing the knock kind of sound when I shifted out of park with cold engine, could not replacing them cause any major drivetrain issues? Also I was wondering if I bought my own parts would an independent garage install them?
Eh, don't go by the sticker. My local dealership puts a sticker on my car which has a computerized maintenance minder to tell me when I need an oil change.
With regular oil, you'd need a change at most every 3,750 miles according to the owner's manual, I think. 5,000 miles is usually a safe mileage to get it changed. And, I'm not sure, but I don't think "Honda Synthetic Blend" necessarily means synthetic oil (like MObil 1), but it might. I just don't know.
With the motor mounts, get a buddy, wife, etc... to sit in the car with the engine running, while you stand to the side of the engine. With the car IN GEAR, have them hold their foot firmly on the brake and press the throttle. Don't floor it or anything, you're just trying to look for a movement of the engine, not trying to make it jump out . If it moves any significant amount, you have a broken motor mount.
replaced!!!! :mad:
Girlfriends' dad also seems like a contender for a father-in-law.
to be honest, even a honda cert. or any cert. vehicle for that matter can have issues. from what i've read here, cert. means only that you are paying for insurance. it doesn't necessarily mean it has been fine tooth combed by someone and everything repaired.
if he's right, and if he can save you some serious coin, you want to frequent the guy with future repairs and pass his name along to others who might need a good mechanic. independants that you trust and are really good should benefit from your reference.
don't do that openly in the forum though. GPH might hastle him. don't know about the assertion of making commission on services sold - but i suspect that might be more widespread than that one dealership / brand.
Car is 1200 miles away and I'm trying to help mom to keep from getting ripped-off. Any thoughts?
I have an appt. with the dealer to have my tranny checked due to slipping and I don't want to let them come up with the old "this problem isn't covered by the warranty" excuse.
was it pulling before you got up there? i mean, those aren't the roads to be assessing alignment issues on since they are really canted drastically away from the middle to put you away from oncomming traffic. better to do that on the interstate.
let us know if GPH can figure your issue out or not.
pulling to the left can't be good. that would suggest a fairly serious problem as the road is purposely canted to the right for drainage.