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I don't think I'm going to change them yet (67k miles). I just took one out to see what condition it was in, and to find out which plugs I had (it was the Denso plugs). Getting the rear bank plugs out is a tight space, so I'm trying to find the perfect tool set-up for the job. I have a few ideas, just have to find them in a store. Doing your own maintenance does not void your warranty. Of course, if you screw something up, the warranty is not going to cover it, but I've been doing my own maintenance since 1980, and haven't screwed anything up yet. I buy a service manual for each car/truck I own, so I do things the right way. It gives me a sense of accomplishment, I learn about how my car works, and I save some $$ at the same time. I have a acquired an assortment of tools along the way.
Tony may be the only driver that can take that 4th straight cup from Jimmy. I hope all those M&Ms give #18 the runs.
I have seen so many contradictory opinions.
Never changed oil since purchase.
Can someone help? When should I do oil change wiat till 15 %?
If it has been more then 3 months, I would suggest to get the oil changed. It also depends on what area you live in. If you're in a hot weather area, I would suggest to get it done asap/
However, its really up to you. You can probably go to 6000-6500 miles with out worry. Honda usually recommends 3-4 months or up to 6000 miles. Check out www.honda.com for the recommended schedule.
If you have an extended warranty, you may want to follow their maintenance schedule. Usually thats the caveat with extended warranties through the dealer - if you do not follow their schedule, it could void any extended warranty service. Just a heads up....
After that, you get to decide whether you side with the crowd that follows the "cheap insurance to change oil every 3000 miles" philosophy or those who use Honda's Maintenance Minder system and change it when it says 15%. You can do a Google search on "3000 mile oil change myth" and find lots of pros and cons.
Finally, Grampy's advice is correct: If you don't drive very many miles, Honda recommends that you change your oil at least once a year.
I have noticed in the last few days that the AC seems to be overworked every time I start the car. I always leave my AC on auto. Even if I keep set the temperature to 85 and there is very less air coming out of the vents, the AC is very loud and seems to be running at full blast. I dont hear any metallic clanks or knocking noise.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Kris
You may wish to write to Chintan, though, to see if he has a better response for you. If you learn anything, let us know!
I think the last time I did the oil change in the 2004 Accord 4 cyl, I went with 5W-20. but you had said to go w/ 5w-30 if the powertrain has expired because of the higher temparature protection. So I've been trying to stick to that.
I can't remember what mileage my Accord was at when I did the last oil change but looking at the date of my post, I think it was close to memorial day. So hopefully the oil is still good. Next time around I was planningon trying to go back to 5w-30 unless you advise otherwise.
Thanks
PS: If you want to test the actuator before assuming it's the problem, you just have to apply battery voltage (only intermittently) to the connectors, and see if it works that way.
Right. There are two rods connected to the actuator. Be careful not to break the little clips that hold the rods in place. You have to swing them open, not just yank on the rod, to get them out. There are two wire connectors, and two cables (one to the inside handle and the other to the lock knob. Make sure you don't forget to put all 6---2 rods, 2 cables, and 2 wire connectors back together correctly, or you will have problems opening the door. There is only one screw holding the actuator to the latch, then you have to carefully pry them apart. The actuator cost me $25 at the dealership. Be careful peeling back the moisture barrier, because you want to be able to reuse it. I sliced through the adhesive with a knife as close to the door as I could, so most of the glue would be on the barrier, for when I put it back on. There are a lot of screws and everything has to go back together exactly like it was. Take pictures, if necessary. Good luck
Did you have to move the window channel to get the actuator out?
:confuse:
Mrbill
1. tire rotation - Bridgestone Turanza OEM tires look fine
2. brake flushing
3. change air filters
4. change oil filter - so the guy at the local Honda dealer had a cow about how I need to use Honda parts because they are so much better (I ordered the filter from H&A accessories online, same with air filter). Prior to now the car had only been serviced by that dealer, and it had a Valvoline filter on it when I changed it, and it was WAY overtorqued (9-10n-m shouldn't require a breaker bar with extension).
5. Change oil - Castrol GTX 5w20
6. Inspected every moving suspension joint (LCA, UCA, ball joints, tie rods etc)...it was interesting, the '93 had little covers on the bolts for the UCA and LCA that the '07 doesn't have. I sure hope I still don't have the car when those are rusted solid.
7. Installed official Honda "Leather shift knob" woot woot its just like a Ferrari now
The tire and brake stuff took about 45 minutes. I got one of those mitivac brake bleeders and it was easy; wife was stoked she didn't have to sit and pump the brake for an hour. I think the oil change was where things went to pieces (everything over-torqued, cracked oil drain basin), but all in all, everything was pretty easy. I do like my leather shift knob :P
Yes, I'm glad I have the mity-vac for two reasons. 1. Who wants to sit in your car, and wear himself out pushing the brake pedal (for quite a while). 2. It could mean a longer lifespan for your master cylinder. Not to mention the constant tightening and loosening of the bleeder bolt.
Thanks.
Hope this helps!
it took me a minute to understand the system, there is A&B and 1-5 that illuminate in the message center area where the ODO is. Those letters and numbers refer to services listed in the owner's manual. 1 is an oil change, 3 is a trans fluid change, etc.
Thanks.
davidd3 and go_orange are the same guy. Depending which computer I use it comes up different. I forgot my info after a long period of inactivity and recently created a new screen name. Yet another computer I use still remembers my previous info and posts from that computer appear with my original screen name.
Cabin and air filters are supposed to be done around 30k so I waited on those. Easy to do yourself. Your dealer will have 30k suggestions that may or may not be worth it. Changing the transmission and brake fluids may be worth the time and money.
I suggest that you rest easy until 30k or your next oil change. Perhaps Elroy or another v6 owner will have different info than my I4 experience.
Sorry, but my 03 V6 didn't have the Maintenance Minder, so I don't know much about them. I'm glad my car doesn't have it, because I would not wait to change the oil and check the filters. The MM extends the intervals more than I like (7-8k miles between oil changes? :surprise: No way).
I'm not overly hard on it, but I tend to maintain 80 mph on the freeway and do a fair bit of in-town driving. Periodically I'll have the 6k rpm start, but that isn't too often.
Also, I know that you guys are fairly good at telling whether a service is worth it or not. I'm not comfortable doing my own maintenance at all. Too many computers and sensors to mess up on me.
Thanks all.
Yeah, I know but I figured if the V6 was any different, you could tell the OP what that might be. :shades:
All the info he needs is there. Needs VIN also.
The 96 you have will probably keep on chugging along until you decide to take a shot gun to it for refusing to die.
Anyway good luck finding a "real job." I wouldn't mind being a courier, but don't want to put the miles on my car.
The airbag light in my 2003 Accord LX occasionally stays on the entire time while driving. It occurred again yesterday, and I only had some light books on the passenger seat so I'm pretty sure the weight sensor in the passenger seat is not the culprit. The owner's manual states that the airbag light can indicate a potential problem with the airbag or the seat belt tensioner.
Has anyone else here experienced this issue and had it diagnosed at the dealer? Is this something that could be reset simply by hooking up diagnostic equipment to the car?
Thank you for your responses