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Comments
Was the issue related to the battery?
Take account of your miles driven, then divide by your gallons pumped. That'll help determine what mileage you're getting. You can't go by "a full tank" since you aren't running it dry every time.
Does that seem normal for a 2003 Accord?
That's what I'm really asking.
thanks.
You picked out one year (2003) but the generation, as a whole, is pretty solid. And from 2003, transmissions were the biggest issue so that skews things a bit.
I agree with thegrad... figure out your true mileage and compare that to what you were getting a few years ago.
One thing that I noticed recently, with the onset of colder weather, I hadn't checked my tire pressure lately. I barely got 30 mpg combined. Once I added some air, I was back up to around 32 combined.
06 EX-L I4 Manual.
Avg is under 22 mpg.
A bit low for EX-4L even in cold weather.
Have you replaced the PCV yet?
I would check the tire pressure. Do you have defrost mode on all
the time?
My 03EXV6 with city driving & A/C on still gives 22 mpg.
For the record, there is a thread specifically for Accord MPG, if the original poster would like to check it out as well. I've linked it right here.
defrost mode is not on all the time. yes it gets cold where we live, but it also can get very warm. and very hot in the summer.
The one thing I wanted to ask, and it maybe a stupid question, but the accord has A/C off, and you can press that after you put on the air system. so the question is the A/C on by default?
Yes. Overall, it prevents window-fogging and humidity buildup, and simply regulates temperature by how much heat it puts in the system. In full automatic mode, the A/C is on, and is only off when specifically indicated.
Tank holds about 17gals. Light comes on when there are about 2 1/2 gals left.
True.
I commute in a rather remote area and it would be real inconvenient to fill up that often. I'm on my third honda and have never had a problem with the fuel pump.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_pump#Mechanical_pump
It's been a while since I've been out here and I was wondering if the PCV is something that would create symptoms when in need of replacement or is it advisable to just replace it at a given mileage? I'm only asking since I have been getting lowish mileage, but my car hasn't been exhibiting any tell-tale signs of anything. Although I do need another alignment. I'm glad I bought the 3 year alignment package because it seems it pops itself out of alignment every 6 months which is kind of weird. If so how much should it run to replace it? My car is an 03 LX with a smidge under 70k. So far I've hovered around 24-25 mpg with a good deal of in town driving. I've been training myself to rely more on CC than ankle control since I admit that I have a heavy foot.
Since I've been using CC I've pushed it up to 26ish. Of course my results may be skewed since I fill up at slightly under "half" tank most of the time. I rarely let it get much past that point. I guess I'm overly picky or my mom says I'm a tad anal about my car.
I don't mean to butt in to the conversation.
note :the new motor has tamper proof screws
bad.
I replaced PCV valve at given mileages for my Accord89, Acura94, Camry88.
It was an easy job. Haven't done it for my 03EXV6 yet though.
Looking at the picture for your 03LX from
http://www.bernardiparts.com/searchoptions.aspx
select ENGINE>breather tube to see the parts' cost. It should be easy to replace it.
For PCV reading:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve
Thanks
Kind of surprised the battery only lasted 2.5 years. Never had one go bad before. I suppose that holding down the button for several seconds to roll the windows down uses a lot of juice compared to a quick lock or unlock.
Also had a headlight go out - replaced it with the John Deere tractor headlight that other sites rave about (Toshiba HIR). It is brighter than stock. That was quite a chore as well. Lots of fiddling around to get access to the bulb. Makes me miss the old sealed beams.
My windows rattle in the weather stripping. Its a Honda. Hondas seem to have a few rattles. My '07 Accord windows rattle, my '93 Accord rattled, my '93 Civic rattled, my '89 Civic rattled. I have lubricated the weather stripping for the door and the window and that seemed to help a little bit. I think at this point I have just gotten used to it.
I guess I am saying there are actions to take to mitigate the rattle, but don't hold your breath.
I've been silently stewing that my mileage on my '06 2.4L auto has dropped recently. I can't get my normal 30mpg mixed anymore (26-27ish), and my highway mileage has dropped to old EPA estimates (34) where I used to get 37+ easily at 70-75mph. I chalked it up to my new tires, but forgot I replaced the battery. I should the do the ILP, right?
Elroy, if you don't mind, can you share that for me?
Might have to give that a try too, whatever it is!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
although if all you need to do is disconnect the battery to reset the ECM, I got that covered.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
That's a very different ILP than I've read for the Fit, the Pilot, etc. I wonder how precise you have to be with that 3,000 RPM deal.
Anyway, what is the problem caused that the ILP is "fixing"? idling at the wrong speed, or not idling smoothly?
I doubt this ever gets done when the battery i sreplaced, even by a Honda dealer, and certainly not elsewhere.
I am guessing that just disconnecting the battery doesn't wipe of the ECM, requiring the procedure?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
1. I'm surprised that you had to replace your battery so soon, grad.
2. I've never heard of having to do anything when you simply replace a battery. Except reset your radio code, of course.
Once it was jumped off, I drove it home. It cranked fine the next day. I didn't trust it beyond that though, and went ahead and bought a new battery, with more juice to it.
It might depend on how long the battery is disconnected, not sure. Some people have had to re-learn the auto up/down windows after the battery was changed. I replaced my battery pretty quickly, so I don't think the ECM was reset.
What kind of battery did you get grad? I was thinking about Optima for my next battery, but for what those suckers cost, it would have to last 15 years. My oem battery lasted almost 4 years, and the replacement (Sams club $45 battery) is about 2 1/2 years old. I can tell the starter is not turning as fast anymore, so I would not give it another year. The original battery never failed to start the engine, but it was so weak under load, it was causing communication errors from the MICU.
I wanted to get the Maxx version (higher output) but they didnt have that model in the Accord size. Got a Maxx in our Odyssey, and I think it would crank over a peterbuilt.
I replaced mine when the dealer tested and it failed the load test, before it had a chance to strand me when it got cold.
only had to reload the radio code. Everything else worked like it was supposed to.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Stock batteries tend to have low CCA's My Integra had under 400. Not sure about the Accord. They sell you on more CCA's in the store, but it is usually overkill. Often times the batteries with really high CCA's don't last as long. They have more lead plates that are thinner to fit in the same space, but this makes them less durable.
My OEM battery in the Integra lasted 7 years and I only replaced it because it was old - it still worked fine (started the car in -35 actulc temp one night when it was 4 years old). It actually needed distilled water added every few years. The replacement batteries only lasted about 4 years each even though they were all super fancy with long warrenties and tons of CCA's. The warrenty means nothing because it is prorated and just guaranties that you will buy the same model again to take advantage of the warranty.
As far as mpg goes. I would strongly suspect the tire change is a major factor. Tires can vary by 3 to 4 mpg because of their rolling resistance. And tires are at their most efficient when they are old and bald for two reasons. They are quite a bit lighter with all that tread gone and that reduces rotational mass. They smooth tread also has less drag than a new tire.
A brand new tire that still has the nubs on it and had lots off tread and may not be super efficient to begin with will use more fuel. Also a higher speed rating usually means worse mpg because the reinforcing needed for the rating adds weight. CR tested tires recently and V rated tires were all significantly worse than the H rated tires for rolling resistance.
What tires did you get grad?
Mine was 400 or 410 I think, and what I bought was somewhere in the 420-430 range. I remember it being an increase of 20 or so.
What tires did you get grad?
Well, I put Bridgestone Potenza G009 on my '96 Accord, like them so much that I put the "new model" of the same tire on my '06 - Potenza G019. They're listed as a "high-performance all-season." They were $94.99 a tire. Could've gone cheaper, but they're great in the handling/ride compromise, if they are a little noisy on pebbly-concrete surfaces. The old Michelin Energy tires lasted 51k. I still had tread-life, but had lots of cracks in the sidewalls, and was really noticing traction issues in heavy rain, at speeds that my '96 wouldn't have had a problem on the same stretch of road.
There is the reason.
I just checked on Consumer Reports and that tire has a solid black mark for rolling resistance (it handles well and has excellent braking traction). The Michelin primacy MXV4 is tied with the Goodyear fuelmax for the lowest rolling resistance with a sold red circle. That is a slightly different Michelin than what you had but probably close for rolling resistance. The Bridgestone is also V rated while the Michelin is H rated (making it lighter).
Just for grins I checked on tire rack and the Bridgestone weighs 27 lbs per tire to 24 for the Michelin.
I woulk link to the article but you need a subscription to read it. Local library should have a copy though.
The good news is the mpg will gradually get a little better as the tire wears.
On another note, I'm approaching 60k miles (55k now, with 40% oil life); I wonder what will need to be taken care of at this next service? Its time for another air filter (last done at 28K), and also to get my transmission fluid changed (never done it). Anything else I'm forgetting? I know the MM will tell me things, but just looking to know what to expect here.