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http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22342
Were the truth be known, my 6M vibrates on startup. By the time I stick it in reverse, back out of the garage, get out and close the garage door et al........when I drive to my first stop sign (150 yards), it's gone. I don't recall this when new; hopefully it's not a precursor to bad news.
all the best, ez............
Road noise doesn't bug me.
Went by the dealer today to have my horn looked at (sounds personal, doesn't it? :shades: ). They told me the "high" horn is finished; not making a sound. What I'm hearing now is the low horn, and even that is growling - about to play out. The horns are $65 apiece, installation is $100 (one hour). The total estimate, after clips and tax was $264.45.
Needless to say, I'm going to see what my local mechanic would charge for the install, and see if I can find horns at a pull-a-part place. Not going to have anything done to the other horn quits on me. Right now, it makes loud noise, its just a bit embarassing to honk it.
I bet you could DIY the horn install - should be pretty easy (20 minutes). The 09 Accord horn ($15 below) is being put in the Fit by a lot of people who want more horn. It looks like it is just one piece and it should fit easily in your Accord.
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~horn~assy~38100-STK-A02.html
Any questions?
Illustrious? I almost fell on the floor laughing at that one.
At 28k my car hit me with a need for oil/filter change, tire rotation, air filter change, cabin filter change. I just had it all done again (minus the cabin filter) at Big Ten Tires (chain), for $51, with my 15% indicator once again showing a B 1,2 at 56,000 miles.
I have a 2006 Accord EX 4-cylinder, automatic.
Oil Change - $19.99
Oil Filter - $7.00
Air Filter - $19.99
Tire Rotation - Free, I bought my tires there. They also balance and align for free.
The remainder was tax and disposal fee. I'm late on having my brake fluid done, but the dealer wanted $169 do it. For $350 I can have a new master cylinder done, with fresh brake fluid. I'll wait it out for that much $.
The moisture the brake fluid absorbs can also rust the calliper piston, and cause it to start leaking, so it's not just the master cylinder that could go out. I think you are safe for 4 years, but I would not go longer than that.
Would you guess it's time for me to do my air filter again? I last did it around 32k and now I'm at just under 72k. I just got an oil change and they pulled the filter. It looks pretty gnarly, but looks can be deceiving. They also did a fuel line cleaning and blew out some carbon that had built up over the 7 years since the car was born. Any ideas. I had them look at the spark plugs just in case and they said that the plugs are still in good shape.
Thanks,
tankbeans
2003 Accord LX Coupe 71,850
I think whatever fluid they use will be fine. There is a DOT grade (3, 4, 5) and as long as they use the right one, it should be fine. I mockingly refer to Honda factory fluids as being blessed, but they all have to meet the same requirements to be qualified by DOT. Just like SAE requirements for motor oil.
Depending on how you drive, changing the air filter every 30k is certainly reasonable... and recommended, IIRC.
I have found changing the oil in the 03-07 Accord to be a totally miserable, messy, greasy experience. I think relocating the filter to somewhere easy to reach would help alot. Right now, it is the 2nd worst of any car I've changed the oil, the absolute worst being the early 90s Prelude (the best, incidentally, is our '05 Legacy - the filter is at the bottom of the engine, oriented vertically, so you don't need an anti-drain spring in the filter, and you don't get oil all down your arm or suspension or exhaust manifold when you take it off. They also used the same filter for just about every Subaru on the road, so its easy to find).
An oil change is just a miserable job on this car.
Then again, Ihave the dealer do it. So maybe that's the reason!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Not recommending anybody go against what the dealer says, but I wonder if the intervals are akin to the old oil change intervals of 3k or less - overkill.
My assumption is that the noise coming from outside of the car. It sounds like the loose object (aka rubber ball) is being moved by the wind which causes it to make contact with an object (aka paper cup). Given that I can hear it clearly I'm also assuming that it is near the firewall.
I have checked for any loose parts and foreign objects near the wiper area and firewall with no success. I would really appreciate any information that you may have.
Thank you.
Since he was heading to walmart for the rotation and balance, I told him to just grab the mobil 1 oil there. I'm still a little confused over 5w-30 or 5w-20 but carzzz had suggested going with 5w-30 if your powertrain has expired back in this post so I thought I would stick with that. If wal-mart doesn't have 5w-30, I told him to grab 5w-20. Hopefully he can get a 5qt jug as they are usually $22. If not, he'll have to buy individual quarts at I think $6ish each.
I wasn't sure about walmart's filter so I told my brother to stop at the local Ourisman Honda dealer in Laurel and pick up the oil filters there. I gave him a printout from handa-accessories.com showing the filter price at $5.28 each. He just texted me telling me he got them at $5.63 each.
I saw a deal over here on slickdeasl for 5 quarts Mobil 1 synthetic oil + Mobil 1 oil filter for $27.99 from autozone. I wasn't sure about Mobil 1's filter either though.
Anyone familiar with these tires?
I'm not sure what milage the G009s were replaced with these but I know my sister (now the driver of that car since I got my IS 350 last year) told me details about the tires when the car was at 147,301 miles. So somewhere between 135k and that is when the swap occurred. Unfortunately, my dad's not really good at keeping paperwork. I'm not even sure if these tires are new or not.
We did take the car to walmart on Saturday and had the tire rotation and balance and oil change done there. The thread life is 6/32 all around. The car was a 152124 miles at the time of service.
I'm not sure how much life is left in the tires but once the tires get low again, I'm handling them this time.
One thing that's got me a little worried is that walmart forgot to use the genuine honda oil filter that my brother picked up from the dealer right before (the part# was 15400-PLM-A02, and they matched handa-accessories.com's price down to $5.63). Instead they used theirs. a PRO 7317 oil filter as per the walmart receipt. I know the honda oil filter can go 20k miles (the manual says to swap out the oil every 10k miles, but oil and filter every 20k miles). I just swap out every 10k miles though because I don't do the oil changes myself so it would be hard to keep track of myself w/ someone else doing it. I hope this PRO 7317 filter can at least go 10k miles - the mileage at the walmart oil change from last Saturday was 152,124 so I have to take care of the next oil change at 162k miles.
I've recently noticed that my driver's side key hole, the only one available on my car, is recessed more than normal. It doesn't look like anybody tried to break in, but there is a noticeable gap between the keyhole slot and the panel that the handle sits in. Is it fairly easy to get in there and fix it?
I'm not overly worried about it because I barely use the valet key and always unlock from the fob, but I want to make sure somebody can get in without the fob. Thanks in advance for the help.
The 205/55 tires are much smaller. That is making the speedometer read fast, the odometer run fast (accumulating more miles than you are really driving), and lowering the final drive (so the engine runs a higher RPM at a given speed). Miata.net had a tire size calculator that will show the difference in height and circumference between various sizes so you can see how far off your speedometer and odometer are, at the least.
Next time, I would get the correct size.
That said, 205/60R16 is not that fun a size and there are very few performance oriented options. I think the 17" wheels and tires offer more size opportunities.
That's probably why the tires wear out faster.
At 6/32, you still can get another 10k miles out of them.
If the car is driven a lot on snow, I would replace them at 5/32.
My dealer wants to charge after telling me the rear brakes are shot
273 for new pads and re-surface
458 for new pads and new rotors
Of course he says that I should only use Honda genuine pads etc
Local shop is 300 for new pads and rotors, but says I should always replace the rotors as 9/10 they will pulsate if dont
Where as to my surprise the DEALER says depending on the condition I may be able to simply have the re-surfaced.
So question is what are the drawback of NOT using Honda brake pads. Local shop says they are most likely made by Raybestos or some other major manufacture and simply re-branded as Honda
Any advice appreciated