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We have miles 36k. I have a 07 SE v6 but I swore today they guy @ the dealer told me they sell ceramic for pads?
I also couldn't believe the dealer would tell me that often times they simply re-surface them. Whereas the local shop in my neighborhood said he always likes to replace rotors and pads.(namely because of the pulsating issue and they fact that were in MN with all the salt etc they simply wear down faster. He could replace both rotors and pads for 300.00
What do you all think? I always could buy some pads from the Honda accessories web link I see on here, but have yet to convinced the Honda pads are all that great?
EDIT: Since you do recommend changing rotors when switching to after-market pads, I guess your answer to question #2 would be "no."
I think the indy guy prefers replacing because it is quicker and easier, and less chance you come back with warped rotors. You can get after market rotors fairly cheap sometimes, so not much more cost over the labor of cutting them.
anyway, every place I have ever been said they would resurface as long as it didn't bring them too close to the minimum thickness. FIne by me, especially on the rears. I might put new rotors on the front if/when it ever needs front brakes (not likely anytime soon, I think the 2nd set of rears will wear out before the original fronts!)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Just wondering, visible from where? Even though the pads you can see (outside) have plenty left, that doesn't mean the inside pads are not worn down a lot more. Not saying your inside pads are worn out. The wear indicators should let you know when they are, but looking at the outside pad only, is not always a good indication.
So an OEM Honda pad is designed to optimize a few things - brake dust, rotor wear, stopping distance, pad life, heat resistance and cost. Some engineer signed off some where that this is the best they could do for $xx.xx and he was happy with it.
You might decide you can spend more than $xx.xx and you value stopping distance and heat resistance over minimizing brake dust (or not, just an example). Going with a higher performance aftermarket pad lets you do these things.
There are two schools of thought to the rotors too. One is that they get thinner over time and more likely to warp. The other is they have been heat cycled so many times that they become hardened and less prone to warping.
I hope to be out of my '07 EX before I have to replace the brakes, but when I do the brakes on our Legacy wagon, it will get an upgraded, aftermarket pad and either stock Subaru rotors, or Brembo blanks. I am waiting for the thaw before I tackle that one.
Factory parts are always designed to work well within a wholesale cost. By the time the part gets to a retail outlet (the dealership), there is so much markup, the value of that optimization is totally out the window.
This is not necessarily an argument against using after-market linings, but it is something to keep in mind when considering an "upgrade." At least with OEM, I know that I'd be replacing the old with "correct" pads, i.e., pads that were made to be used with the braking system as Honda engineers designed it.
(I know this sounds like a typical warning from a Honda service manager, but in the case of brake-lining replacements, I'm not sure it isn't a warning worth heeding.)
There are 4 wheel speed sensors that count wheel rotations. If there is a big difference between 1 wheel and the other 3 (assuming 4-channel ABS/EBD), the brake releases on that wheel. This is also tied in with stability and traction control for those vehicles so equipped. Having a pad that has increased frictional characteristics will improve the performance of the system. It could, however, cause the system (especially ABS) to intervene more often since the brakes are more effective at slowing the wheel, your tires may become a weaker link in the chain.
At least with OEM, I know that I'd be replacing the old with "correct" pads, i.e., pads that were made to be used with the braking system as Honda engineers designed it.
And it would be the same compromise the engineers had to use, but at a much higher, lower value pricepoint.
The guy at the tire place said they saw a lot of this with accords, and that it was a result of the caliper hanging up.
I might blame the EBD if all the pads wore together, but not 1 out of 4.
And no way they could bias it so much to the rear that the fronts would last 2-3times what you get from the rear! Especially since in most cars, it is reversed.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Any suggestions for where I can get a new factory rim to match my other three at an affordable price?
Thanks!
-FS :sick:
Craigslist, eBay, Majestic Honda, HandA, some other guy that has the same rims but isn't looking...
You can try that if you'd rather buy new and still dont want the hassle of paying full price at a dealer. Just a suggestion from a guy who's been there. :shades:
Yeah CAI mostly good for noise more than power (they do make you feel like your going faster though) and put you at risk for sucking up water and hydrolocking the motor, depending on the design.
There are also some places around that will repair the bent wheel, but off the top of my head I don't remember the names. Again, google is your friend!
airbag? You mean the a"airbag off" light? That happens sometimes when I put my briefcase on the seat (or a very light person). Did the light not go off when you took everything off the seat? Never seen that before.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
My mechanic had "a guy" who could straighten my rim for me for around $175. However, I kept shopping, and finally purchased a reconditioned rim for $139.95 (including shipping but w/o the center hub cap) from www.hubcaphaven.com . This is an OEM rim that has been lathed and trued and then re-powder coated. They have a 14-day return for full refund policy (so long as it hasn't actually been used) if I'm dissatisfied.
The rim arrived yesterday afternoon and it looks great visually but I'll have my tech-guy put it on the balancer just to be sure it's true before we actually mount the tire on Monday or Tuesday. I have high expectations right now but will let you know if anything goes kablooey when I do.
-FS
If you are as impressed as am I with this fuel efficient rocket (well, I digress: best wishes for a balanced(vibration-free) replacement).
ez....
If the DVD has circular scratches, then there is something wrong with the DVD player causing the scratching. I'm surprised the dealer is only replacing the disk and not the player and disk. My guess is the same thing is going to happen with the replacement DVD.
Mrbill
Our gas mileage has been phenomenol through-out; varying from 28.5 to 35.5 mpg, and whether we are using A/C, in sunny, hot Arizona.
No other major repairs, no alternators, A/C components, water pump failure, or otherwise! We run strictly Honda fluids--especially coolant (which has no surfactants, of any kind), thereby avoiding premature wear on metal or seals.
Also, flushing and running only Honda power steering fluid, minimizing wear on components.
We changed our oil every 3750 to 4000 miles up to 150,000 miles. Converted to full synthetic oil, changed every 5,000 miles.
Everything else has been followed religiously--according to Mfg recommendations!
Honda must love customers like us--huh?!
I don't know if they "love" me. I do buy all my maintenance fluids and parts from them. They don't get to do the maintenance though, so maybe they just like me. They made some $$$ when they sold me the car, and a little now and then for parts, but they haven't made a dime on me for service, in quite a while (probably 15 years). I really enjoy working on my own car, and I've learned a lot doing so. The timing belt is going to be a challenge, but I plan to do it myself, when the time comes.
Faced with the same challenge: I'm digging into my Naval Reserve bread for the budgeted $1200 (high estimate just in case). Your competence will pay off in a huge saving. You got this sailor's respect.
best, ez....
If it is a similar cost to my old Accord (95 4-cyl) it'd run about $700, that is if you're talking about the 6-cylinder.
Has anybody else had this issue and how have you fixed it, or should I even worry about it?
Thank you for your help.
03 EX V6, which has a timing belt. The car only has 75k miles on it, but it will be 7 years old in September. I still have time to study up for the challenge. I will be ready.
I agree with the possibility of the door hanging low... but it could also be a loose/unseated door seal. Good luck!
Coincidentally, I didn't start noticing the problem until after I got it back.
Thank you all for your help.
Good stuff! -FS :shades:
At 75k, my 6M - like yours - performs big time impressive: (I've calc'd 40+ MPG in the flat AZ desert twice). Plus the 14.5 1/4-mile is fast enough for this sailor.
I really don't know what to consider (down the line) as a replacement - - - - I fear the buyer's remorse co-efficient would be high............
Glad your replacement wheel saga ended well.
best, ez....