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Comments
Mrbill
I am debating if I should repair the scratches at an auto body shop or repair it with Honda Touch-Up paint I bought recently (which I intended to use on my rear bumper for an older scratch). What will help me make my decision is if the location of the scratch I described is part of the bumper or not--it looks like the location I described is part of the bumper because it is within what looks like to be the bumper "seam"--the rear bumper looks like it continues on the left and right sides of the car up to the rear side of the rear wheels. Does anyone know how far the rear bumper extends to? I can't find any documentation online as to where the rear bumper coverage is. If it is the bumper, then the long scratch will not have any potential to develop rust so I will probably just use the Touch-Up paint to make it look better. If the scratch was on the metal part of the car (not on the bumper) then I would most likely have it repaired at an auto body shop (because I don't want rust to develop).
If your seeing black, that's probably the primer paint color of the sheetmetal.
Mrbill
I thought it remedied itself yesterday morning because I did not hear the noise right away. However, it came back after I went on a relatively short trip totaling 15 miles. I think something is loose and rubbing against the firewall or subframe. Specifically, I think the problem may be:
A suspension bolt not properly tightened at the factory. As the car is warmed, the bolt gets loose. (I heard someone had this problem - I think here on the dedicated Acura TL thread or it could have been on the Accord thread. I could not find the article).
Second - I saw a TSB for an improper weld on the 2003 Accords whereby there was a popping or crunching noise. Doubtful that the weld issues would have continued on the 2006s.
Third - Maybe something just needs to be lubed.
I will bring it for service tomorrow or Wednesday and request that I drive it with the technician and/or service manager. I want them to do a thorough check of the steering and suspension components. I will do a drive of about 15 miles before taking it to the dealership. I think I should be able to easily duplicate the problem.
On a bright note - I averaged over 30 MPG on my first fill-up. 80% Freeway and 20% city. The car is not broken in yet, but it eclipsed the best mileage I ever got for my 2004 Accord 4 auto, which always seemed to get about 28 MPG. I know there was no change in the posted fuel economy window stickers between these models.
Please let us know what your dealer finds. Thanks.
Further, this is a feature of a self adjusting disk brake system. I too have this noise in my 05 LX. The service technician gave me an extract from Honda's service manual & it says what I've said above. If you need confirmation, ask for an extract from your dealer's manual.
I would think that any 5W-20W oil that is ASE approved would be sufficient, but what about the Honda blend? I there anything special about it (or is it just Exxon-Mobil, Shell, Pennzoil, or whatever, in a "Honda" bottle?)
Robgrave
Came upon your reply to someone probably experiencing a similar occurence. I did notice however that it happens when I back up from a cold start, apply the brake and shift into 1st gear to drive off.
Attempted to duplicate it several miles later but it's gone. I haven't been driving it that much yet but I'll definitely observe it now that I have an idea what might be causing it.
This self adjusting disk brake system is new to me. Thanks.
The black you are seeing under the paint is likely the plastic bumper material. None of this area will rust, so fix it or don't fix it, it is merely cosmetic.
Just an update. I got my 2006 Accord SE back this evening and they replaced the left wheel bearing, front assembly. All is now well in Honda land although I'm a bit disappointed in the part failing @ 500 Miles and with let Honda Co. know about this if/when I get a survey. No more popping/rubbbing crunching noise at this time. I just drove it home (about 8 miles), with speeds ranging from 5 to 50 MPH. As I mentioned, this noise was only evident at speeds of nore more than 10mph (coasting).
Anyway, I am nearing almost miles. Soon I can gun the engine and possibly exceed 65 MPH. My day will be better on Friday, if Italy defeats Ukraine in soccer (hope this upsets nobody).
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
Just an update. I got my 2006 Accord SE back this evening and they replaced the left wheel bearing, front assembly. All is now well in Honda land although I'm a bit disappointed in the part failing 500 Miles and with let Honda Co. know about this if/when I get a survey. No more popping/rubbbing crunching noise at this time. I just drove it home (about 8 miles), with speeds ranging from 5 to 50 MPH. As I mentioned, this noise was only evident at speeds of nore more than 10mph (coasting).
Anyway, I am nearing almost miles. Soon I can gun the engine and possibly exceed 65 MPH. My day will be better on Friday, if Italy defeats Ukraine in soccer (hope this upsets nobody).
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
I'm glad that you had it fixed. Thanks for the update. I planned to call my dealer today to make an appointment. However, I could not reproduce the problem this morning no matter how I tried. Anyway, I won't call the dealer until I hear the noise again.
I'm pretty sure Italy defeats Ukraine. If Brazil beats France, that would make my week. I don't hate France. I just love Brazil.
Mine was making a non-stop popping noise at speeds of 5 to 10 mph (ideally when coasting). They spent about 3 hours working on the vehicle (diagnosing and fixing). Just to replace the wheel bearing, it took 1.5 hours.
In addtion, when driving on highway, there usually comes some noise from the dashboard like some parts are somewhat loose. The noise is minimal but noticable.
Are these problems (?) or I'm just being to sensitive. Thanks.
Robgrave
curious.
But what about the jerk that comes from the front potion of the car when engine is starting? Is this also normal?
4. Turn the ignition key to the START (III) position. Do not hold they key in START (III) for more than 15 seconds at a time. If the engine does not start right away, pause for at least 10 seconds before trying again.
5. If the engine does not start within 15 seconds, or starts but stalls right away, repeat step 4 with the accelerator pedal pressed halfway down. If the engine starts, release pressure on the accelerator pedal so the engine does not race.
6. If the engine fails to start, press the accelerator pedal all the way down and hold it there while starting to clear flooding. Return to step 5 if the engine does not start.
As a matter of fact, I do start my Accord in the manner you suggest -- holding the key in the ON (II) position briefly, then turning to START (III) without depressing the accelerator. So far, works flawlessly.
BTW, from the Quick Start Guide, p. 1, under "Things You Need to Know":
At times, the engine may take longer to start than usual; the engine management software is working to reduce emissions at startup.
As I say, I can find no mention of this tidbit in the Owner's Manual, curiously enough.
Robgrave
If it happened to me, I would take it in to the dealer to have it checked out. Doesn't sound right.
Are you talking about the "jerk"? As the engine is starting, the front portion (like under hood and dashboard) shakes a bit. That's the problem my car is having. But it comes and goes for some reason.
I don't think the problem goes away, so much as people finally figure out how to start the car a more effective way. These computer controlled cars take some getting used to.
Can anyone tell me exactly what the Accord owner's manual says?
Can anyone recommend whether I should avoid bringing the new car on a road trip? I could rent a car for a couple hunred bucks.
I leased a 2005 Honda Accord and I have had nothing but headaches ever since. I have a very long list of repairs for this 3 year old car and today I was left stranded in the rain on the side of a major expressway because the alternator went out. The lights are out on the radio, the CD player no longer works, the paint is peeling (for the 3rd time) around the windows and I have had it with this car. I really feel like I have gotten a lemon. Any suggestions on what I can do at this point? Honda wants $2300 to repair the car and I only have 5 months left on the lease. I'm so sick of paying for things that should not be going wrong on a 3 year old car. Any suggestions? Will Honda stand behind their product if I file a formal complaint? Thank you in advance for any insight you are able to provide.
PS. The special "break-in oil" should not be changed ahead of schedule (7,500 miles or whatever the manual says for your driving conditions). Just for a heads up.
So it is safe to change from the "D" gear to other gears like "D3", "1", or "2" while the car is running and gas pedal depressed? Or is it better to let go of the gas pedal while changing the gears? For example, if I am approaching a hill I could just shift it from "D" gear to "2" gear. I know for manual transmission cars the driver needs to press on the clutch before changing gears...so i guess for automatic transmission we can change gears as we wish while the car is being driven? I was alway afraid of changing gears "on the fly" because I thought it would damage the automatic transmission.
also i think the use of 2 is discussed in the context of starting out on a slick surface.
you'd want to do the manual shifting VERY judisiously. being a long-time manual driver, now with 2 automatics, living in the south i've only taken my accord 4spd A/T out of D/D3 and dropped it down one to gain passing power.
but there's also common sense: just like it would be absurd in a manual to take a vehicle from 5th to 1st while at speed (you'd red-line and probably send yourself hard into the seatbelt because of the tensioners), you don't want to be dropping a car out of D into 1.
I don't think it is necessary to release the accelerator before dropping from D to D3, but my intuition tells me it is the better way to do it. Easier on the transmission, I would think. Same thing with shifting back to D from D3; releasing the accelerator first seems to be the better way.
Robgrave
Are you saying that if you unlock the doors with the remote transmitter, but do not open any of the doors within 30 seconds, the doors automatically lock? If so, this is normal and after the doors automatically relock, the security system will be active. Please refer to page 79 of your owner's manual. If its doing something else, then you may have a problem.
Unfortunately, I don't know exactly what conditions create this automatic setting of the system. I just tried this morning, in fact, and couldn't repeat it. All I know is, when the system sets as I'm sitting in the car, using the remote to unset (unlock) it is what works.
Robgrave