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Steve
Host, SUVS
the Explorer descended originally from the Ranger. the taillight wiring harness has very little slack on the Ranger. when I shotgunned my bulbs on my last Ranger, I had the same experience on the rear lenses, and found it was that I was pulling on the wires. had to reach up from underneath to rotate the lamp assembly a quarter turn and pull it out of the lens before I could pull the lens away.
there was a redesign in 95 and since I haven't yanked at my 2000 exploder back there yet there I don't know this for sure, but 90-93 for sure there should have been four bolts holding the lens assembly. you may have to raise the hatchback to see the others. if it wasn't dark and past midnite, I'd go to the garage and check it myself. but I had to drop tailgate on my 90 ranger to find the other bolts, then discover the tail socket wires had very little slack in them.
Adam
Also, is there a way to get the stereo out with out using the special tool?
Thanks!
Good luck & thanks.
Tom
I know what you mean about the typical dealer service dept. They often aren't any better than the independants but cost a lot more.
1. They changed the middle seat in the back without warning (or I might have bot an '02). On the '02, the back folds down neatly into the floor after the seat is flipped up. The kids can use the middle then as a little table. Now it won't fold flat at all because they added a 3 point seat belt.
2. The rear hatch window will only close if pressure is applied DIRECTLY to the center over the Mercury logo. I noticed a neighbor's '02 Explorer and it appears that Ford changed the entire closing mechanism...but it only "catches" when you apply the pressure as noted or "slam" it shut with extreme force.
Any comments?
Daryll40, Pittsburgh
I need some help-my brake lights are not working-replaced the bulbs, but that was not the problem. The fuses all look fine-but frankly my manual doesn't really point out which fuse is the brake light fuse. However, all fuses look fine. I have a 98 Eddie Bauer. I'll have to go into the shop where I'm sure they will decide it's some major electrical problem that will cost me a fortune-so I'm hoping someone out there can point me in the right direction before Ford "takes me for a ride". Thanks.
Now to figure out what that rattle is in the under carriage---muffler vibrating against something??? I'll go back to honest Abe when he has more time. If any of you have any ideas though.......
couldn't back that one out, had to cut it and replace.
that was one of my tiny rattles... I have a toolkit with a rattle in it that is hiding the other right now, so that tells you how small an issue it is.
I do like to get underneath once a year or so and tap things, especially before a long trip or vacation out in the middle of nowhere. find a lot of dinky little rattle makers doing that.
for those who haven't had the pleasure yet... WARNING, chock the wheels on opposite corners, tranny in park, parking brake ON, all sets of keys in your pocket. don't raise the freakin' car to do this unless you have sturdy ramps with no damage that can hold twice the car's weight. NEVER get anything underneath a car, even a hand, if it's being held by a jack, NEVER. life safety issues here. if you have remote starting on your key fobs, take the batteries OUT first. level ground only. our lawyers thank you
My wife just bought a 1999 EB with automatic climate control. Living in Chicago traffic, she likes to have max-AC on all the time to keep out smog. Problem - while the heater works on auto or manual directions settings - on max-AC it will not blow warm air - even at 90 degree setting, still has cold air - suggestions??
Thanks in advance....
Adam
you need fuel, air, and spark to run the car. assuming you tested the fuel pump by putting jumpers in the body wiring harness plug and ran them direct to the battery, then measured the pressure at the fuel rail... and assuming you have checked the intake and exhaust systems for restrictions and put a clean air filter in line just for the randy hell of it... spark is a useful place to go next.
however, there are a L O T of electronics in spark beyond just the crank sensor. thousands of dollars worth. not to mention the coils, ignition wires, and plugs. checking the computer with a scan tool is definitely in order for trouble codes... or any indication that the computer can talk to the tool, because if it can't it probably isn't talking to anything else. you can run a gross spark test by putting a neon bulb on the end of a long stick, and holding it by a plug wire while cranking. no orange flashes, suspect spark.
if you can lead us through the process, there are some serious wrenches who drop by that can help. also post what kind of engine is in this thing, it makes a difference.
all the factors you mention are consistent with issues that indicate running problems, and the computer knows on the second start that it has to fall back to limp mode and not hink with things until it's warmed up.
the codes will be real useful. how many miles you got on this thing, and which engine? pull a couple of plugs and check their condition, spray the ignition wires with a mister in a darkened garage and look for sparks and corona to do an ugly quick test on whether your wires are going away. is the EGR valve surrounded by little wisps of carbon, perhaps? is the air filter clean? fuel filter replaced at 30,000 mile intervals? some of the old tune-up tricks from way back when computers still had vacuum tubes and tape drives for storage are still valid for a first run-through on what could be at issue.
but the stored codes in the computer will help pinpoint whether any of the expensive parts, like 02 sensors, need to be evaluated as well.
Now comes the easy part as I attempt to rebuild my first automatic transmission.
Are there instructions available on how I can program them myself, or will I have to go to the dealer?
I looked through the site, but was unable to navigate through all of the messages to see if this had been discussed. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Anyone know the trick?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
If this does not work then you have to go to the dealer and usually they will try the process for free (mine did the first time). If they can't do it then something has to be done to the computer and it will cost around $80.00 to have it done (at my dealership). Goodluck!
Thank you.
I am sorry to hear of your troubles with the dealer. How about taking a short drive up to Blacksburg where I expect you'll find better service and competence.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
fluorescent bulbs are not sensitive enough to show this, and the phosphor also absorbs enough energy that you won't see the effect. fluorescents depend on mercury vapor gas to light, and there is no pre-heat charge in this application to vaporize enough mercury to conduct in the first place across the uncoated electrode pins in the ends.
Thanks.
ne-2H type bulb is what I had in mind.
1 - Tires - Currently riding on Michelin Cross Terrain SUV, they have about 21000 miles on them. They are, OK, were a noticeable improvement over the Wilderness. How long do you think these will last?
2 - Brakes - 27000 miles on the truck, all original equipment. I do a good mix of driving, and I'm not hard on them at all. How long until they go, and I would assume front would go first.
3 - Shocks - Not having any problems in terms of durability, but when they do go, I would like to upgrade to something that helps hold the road better on turns with bumpy roads (I'm sure all 2001 and before drivers know of the skipping rear end) Any thoughts?
Tom
never had a skipping rear end.
Yours
Now to take it apart. The bellhousing attaches with 8 bolts. After those are removed the, the pump assembly comes out with the belhousing. If you keep it intact there is no need to do the realignment needing special tools. This transmission was "rebuilt" in 96 (weld broke on planetary gear in overdrive) and I was interested if the bands were adjusted correctly. This transmission could have had the single or double wrap overdrive band (2 or 3 ½ turns). For reference, I was going to count how many turns. Problem is there is an O-ring under the backoff nut and it welds itself to the adjusting screw over time. Just another reason why not to adjust the bands when it is in the car.
The first thing to pull out of the transmission is the overdrive clutch followed by the OD planetary gear. These are probably the two parts that fail most often in an A4LD. Nice that they are the first ones that come out. The overdrive clutch has band that goes around it and also an internal clutch. This was where my problem was. The clutch assembly mounts to the spline shaft with a piece called a star washer or OD clutch adaptor. The outside has 8 square teeth that mount to the clutch and it had been riding over these teeth for 70K. Star washer had blued and bent backward. The clutch teeth knurled over and I had to use a dremel tool to grind them back so I could remove the internal clutch piston parts. Bet you always heard that you need special tools to work on a transmission. I made a clutch spring compressor out of an almost used up mylar tape spool, piece of a an aluminum picture frame, long bolt and some washers.
Transmissions are losing their mystic quality. I bought new clutches and steel plates. Every clutch and band I have looked at so far is like new. Good thing these parts will also fit my 5R55E. I could just stop here and replace the OD clutch and go for years. It is likely that many shops that rebuild transmissions only replace the really damaged parts. I think my star washer was marginal and they didn't want to spend the $3 for a new one. That's why it lasted only14 months. If you shop for price, that's what you'll get. I'll never pay to have a transmission rebuilt again. They are just so easy to work on and you just don't know what kind of job someone else will do. I think I'd pay someone to take it out though. Now if I can just find all those pieces that sprung out of the valve body!
I do hope you took digital photos and will post the disassembly/reassembly step by step
seriously, way cool, keep whaling on it! I have heard that the shops with good reputations really do replace everything that is under load, because of the comeback factor... and it makes it easier to promote The Religion of Magical Geegaws as the power in tranny land.
My 2000 4 door explorer has a sagging rear end since I added my class III hitch. Is this normal? A very helpful board poster mentioned that I needed to add coil over springs in the rear and new shocks. My truck has 60K miles. What is the best brand to improve my rear stance and overall ride? Also, I keep hearing about these Kelly brand tires for SUV's that rarely leave the pavement. They are supposed to be great for quiet riding and smoothness. Anyone ever use these tires?
Thanks.