By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
mine went for 9 years and almost 175K miles with no issues (until we found a car my wife loved and we replaced it). My daughters is 6 years old ith 120K miles and few issues. My nieces is about 4 years old and has about 60K on it no issues. The car is good.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
The mileage on a lease starts at the miles on the car at delivery - no transport penalty.
When I bought my wife's last car it was a dealer trade and driven from Colorado Springs to north metro Denver. I then realized it had been traded (and driven) from another Denver dealer to the Springs. No problem whatsoever.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
Not only that, but I would demand another $150 off the price due to the extra miles (around $0.50 per mile).
I always make sure that my new cars have less than 10 miles on them, and that has never been a problem for the dealer.
LIke my son, you drive yours for just about the entire useful life of the car, so resale really isn't an issue.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy one, if it fits my need/wants. I may be all wrong, but the Accents (at least the older ones) that I see look pretty ratted out. Not sure if Hyundai has improved those in recent years, though. So, maybe those are good, too.
For a while there, I was turning my cars over every 2 years or so (for no good reason). So, resale was an issue. I don't turn them over that quickly these days.
If I can get 5 more years out of my Tahoe (and based on the past, don't see why I can't), I'll look at a Hyundai, or maybe an Acura. Who knows, in 5 years, maybe a Tesla will be within a price range where I would consider one.
If I had won a car (I did in 1980) and it had 10 miles on it after I trucked it to my driveway and I wanted to trade it to a dealer of the same brand (Ford) for a larger car, they would view that car as essentially new.
If I had the same car to offer them with 300-500 miles on it in trade for a larger car, how much less would they value that car. I believe it would be substantially less. I feel it would be much more than even $150 less, because the 10 mile odometer reading is going to be a new car to the buyer while the 300 odometer reading is going to say "used." Even if there were a way to transfer the car without titling it to me from the previous dealer source, the 300 mile car is going to say "Not new, quite; I'm worth less."
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I am thinking of buying a 2005 Civic LX as a "utility car". Any strong opinions on that particular model, pro or con? I have owned several Honda's in the past and been very happy with them. Thanks.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
If this is the case, you probably wouldn't buy a new Honda from us.
When they come off the truck, they usualy have four or five miles on them. We have to do a Pre Delivery Inspection which involves driving the cars on a route to check for certain things etc. As a result they usually have at least 12-15 miles on them. In 14 years, I haven't had anyone complain.
300 miles won't affect the life of a modern car one iota.
I deal with this every day. We sell cars tht we got on dealer trades with 200 or more miles and VERY few buyers care.
Because it really isn't a big deal and most people know that.
Discos, LR3s, LR4s and sports sure they come with one or two miles but Range Rovers almost always have about 30.
Volvo's usually have between 5 and 10 miles when they come off the truck. The five mile jobs must be from the front of the ship and the 10 mile jobs from the back. :P
This discussion about how many miles are acceptable on a new car comes up every once in a while and it is always interesting.
For me 500 miles would be the limit. Why 500? Well 500 miles is when leasing companies used to start caring about how many miles a new car had. Less then 500 miles and they wouldn't charge you any extra money up front or knock the residual with more then 500 miles and they would.
Those rules don't necessarily apply now cause leasing is all screwed up but that is the way things used to be.
Miles at the end matter more then miles at the beginning. That is why mileage over the lease contract matter.
Aside from that, does anyone think that those are the types of things that are done to new cars with a few hundred miles on them?
I know when I test drive, I'll do some dead stop to 60 MPH tests to see how it would respond to merging onto a freeway. Some dealerships have urged me to do so, in the past. You're going to do that sort of driving when you own the car yourself, anyway. I doubt very seriously that would affect its longevity, though.
I might try to negotiate some $ off if a new car has more than 100 miles on the odo. I certainly wouldn't shy away from one that had 200-300 miles on it, though.
Well, there's your problem -- once you've "paid in full," which I assume means you did the Finance & Insurance rain dance and all the rest, including signing on the bottom line, your options become quite a bit more limited. I guess you could refuse delivery & have them unwind the deal, but that's about it. However, once you drive that car across the property line & onto the street, you are well and truly done.
Consider whether paying $0.50 - 1.00 or more per mile to have the car trucked to you would have been worth it. I had to have my car trucked in from Denver (I live in Phoenix), and that meant I lost most of my bargaining power & had to pay several hundred dollars & wait a few days. However, it was the only non-nav manual transmission TSX in the color I wanted in the Western U.S. at the time. Given that I buy a new car about once a decade, I figured it was no big deal.
Also, 300 miles on the freeway in today's cars is a non-event. Should be worth a few bucks, though. Maybe they'll throw in some accessories or oil changes or something.
Keep us posted.
He was promised a car with 13 miles, now he is getting one with 300. To a salesperson they might be identical cars, but from a buyer's point of view, the cars are different.
I don't think this deal should be killed over 287 miles, but the buyer can asked for the car to be transported for free, or pay part of the transport fee.
How much does it cost to flat bed a car from a dealer 280~300 miles away? (the car doesn't have 0 miles, so the dealer is closer than 300 miles away).
Figure 300-500 bucks for 300 miles. He never said what kind of car it was but 300-500 bucks is going to be all the gross profit in most any new car.
I can not join in on the discussions from my home computer (I’m now at work) ever since my computer had an automatic restart last week. Something to do with Macafee. This kind of stuff has happened before and I was always able to click on the “sign in” button at the top of the page or the orange “reply” button on the post, put in the required info and I was ready to go. NOT THIS TIME. When I click on either of those two buttons I get a page that says, “Internet Explorer cannot display the web page”. I never had that before and I figured that Edmunds might be having a server problem but that wasn’t the case because the next day at work I had no problem but when I got home I still had the problem. Being a little paranoid I did this back and forth thing for a couple days.
I called FIOS and they said since I had no problem getting to any web site it was in my computer. I thought that was the case but I also thought they could tell me where to go within my computer to select the right tab/button/setting to fix the problem. They said they can’t do that.
So if one of our hosts can provide me with a link here at Edmunds to where someone might be able to help me (without my dues being jacked up sky high) I would appreciate that.
Then again, maybe you guys are trying to freeze me out for 16 hours a day and on weekends. :mad:
Thanks,
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
But, if no miles was a hot button, and agreed to as part of the deal, then yeah, it would bug me.
should be an easy enough compromise. Ask for an accomodation. Price might be set, but see if they will ge you 3 free oil change services or something.
I also don't think it wil be abused. Odds are, it son't be driven at a set speed the whole way, and the usual drivers are retired men, who I doubt are going to be beating up on it. You can also ask the dealer to request he varies the speed to help break it in, if it hasn't arrived yet!
Oh yeah, there is a benefit to the shake down cruise. If there was a build issue that is going to crop up once it gets a good work out, they will find it, not you!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Forums software.
You're more likely to get a reply from someone who knows something about this issue. I'm going to bet it's McAfee. But then again, I'm biased.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
That will probably solve all your problems.
http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/upgrade.html
IE is evil.
So, you can hire a retiree for, what? $10/hour? Drive up, drive back. 6 hours up, 6 hours back. 12 hours = $120. Problem there is, how does he get there to pick up the car? If he drives there, he can't drive two cars back. And, I would imagine the dealership would cover his meals....say $30/day.
Maybe flat bedding isn't a bad way to go after all.
300 miles won't affect the life of a modern car one iota.
Then why does it specifically say in my owner's manual to NOT go for long distances at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles? This is means that someone could get on the highway for 300 miles and set the cruise control, and, depending on where it is being driven, the vast majority of that 300 miles would be at one speed. 300 miles is almost one third of the break-in period, and probably the most important third of the break-in. For the typical person that only keeps a car less than 100,000 miles, it probably wouldn't matter. BUT, there's a reason the engineers put that in the owner's manual! That's why I make sure that the first thousand miles is done by the book.
I have bought all 5 of my new cars this way, and it was never a problem at any of the dealers (five different ones) to make sure that they were not driven more than just the miles from the factory plus predelivery stuff.
Sometimes we do take two cars though and send two drivers or sometimes the driver and a salesman goes.
I have gone on swaps with one of the retired guys here half a dozen times. One of the guys here retired after making a substantial bit of money as a stock broker towards the end of his career. Riding with him is always fun and a real education. We can talk stocks the whole way there.
Maybe, maybe not. The whole idea behind buying a new car, for many of us, is that you know how it was driven. You buy a car with 8-18 miles, you know it was pretty much driven out of the factory, off the truck, and maybe around the block during a dealership inspection.
Now, you've got a car with 300 miles coming from another dealership... the odds of it being driven properly aren't quite as good. Even if it's only half a percentage point. Maybe, the lot boy or transport guy sets the cruise at 90 mph to get it to another dealership. All vehicles that I know of have a recommended break-in period, so long highway trips at the same speed are not recommended.
Would it be a deal breaker for me to have a new car with 120 miles on it, probably not. But, a car with single or low double digit miles is much more attractive to us more knowledgeable Edmunds buyers.
You don't risk anything by doing this as you can then use IE or firefox...but IE will be used very sparingly in the future.
Besides, the rest of us get a royalty from firefox for every convert. That is why we have been freezing you out !! Its a deal old farmer put together fou us.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
Thanks Kirstie, I'll try that.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
My bet is that it's the Mrs. jmonroe virus. It's her way of saying, "Get off that blasted Edmunds site, and do some housework for a change!" :P
That will probably solve all your problems.
Thanks for trying 'rover' and that is exactly what someone I work with said. So I down loaded it and guess what? I can't get to ANY website with Firefox. Somebody at McAfee must have really messed with my computer. :mad: :mad:
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Those Civics are very good and reliable cars. I had a new one for a year, my wife still has her 04 she had since new. Overall good gas mileage, easy to drive, comfortable and well built as basic and solid transportation.
Avoid rebuilds/ex salvage vehicles, or ones after major accidents. Also avoid modified tuned up Civics too. Stick to original stock ones. As long as oil changes were done on time, you're good to go.
On those Civics, a good way to see if it had been in an accident is to check for factory VIN stickers inside all door jambs, the hood, trunk lid, fenders and both bumpers. If any of those have been repainted or replaced, the stickers will not be there, or will be painted over.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
If it personally bothers you that the car will have 300 miles on it, then tell the dealer that and either ask for a discount, or ask them to find you a different car closer, or ask them to flat bed it here. If you insist on flat bedding it, then you might have to chip in for the cost, unless your contract said that you're not going to take delivery of a vehicle with more than XX miles.
Yes, most people buying a new car don't want 300 miles on it, they'd like somewhere under 100 miles, BUT the reality is, some hard to find models will have to be brought over from dealers further away.
That being said the people that transport them are usually careful drivers, mostly retirees, and are not going to do burnouts in them or redline them. Plus if the break in period would be THAT crucial, don't you think that manufacturers would break in the vehicles themnselves to make sure it's done properly so it won't come back for warranty repairs?
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I sure hope you're right and that it doesn't have anything to do with that X-Ray he mentioned a while back.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
We're talking about this barn find in Puerto Rico over on the "I spotted an obscure classic car forum"
So this widow in Puerto Rico has a barn full of old Mustangs she might want to sell cause her husband who was collecting them for years passed away. Most are in poor shape, some are ok. Browsing the pictures, I saw one that's exactly like yours.
The article and pics are here on here on Jalopnik
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
uh..... if he made some good money as a stock broker..... what's he doing picking up a few bucks in his retirement?
I'll bet the sales guys here have some stories about people who looked like they didn't have a dime...but paid cash.
2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
We use two retired guys who baby our cars and most stores do exactly the same thing.
Even if someone drove it hard, no harm would be done. Maybe 40 years ago but not with a modern car.
I know there's a salesman in Cheyenne with that type of story.
My wife's stepfather inherited his mother's estate back in the late 90's and paid cash for a '97 Eldorado and a '97 Grand Cherokee Limited about 5-6 weeks apart. He was a retired driver for Greyhound and didn't really dress up for anything.
Glenn told me that the first salesman he encountered - don't remember which brand it was - dismissed him pretty quickly. His loss.
Glenn passed away last year but my MIL still owns both the Cadillac and the Jeep. Neither of them have over 30K miles on the clock after 12 years and, despite having lived outside their entire life, still look pretty good.
Those are a bit older than mine, they have 15 inch turbine rims and red accent paint in rub strip.
i remember when I bought mine, 2 different dealers told me they didn't have a new one, but had a low mileage unit they got from a widow who's husband passed away.
maybe it was from her!
I had dealer trades on my last two new cars. On my 2008 I only put down a $500 deposit. The car had 161 miles when it arrived, just about the exact distance to Yonkers NY ( window sticker told me which dealer). Car runs perfect 21 months later. Only thing that didn't jive was that the salesman said it was coming from New Jersery. Don't know why he felt he had to lie about that.
On my 2009 I put down a $1000 deposit and the car had 200 miles on it, a little farther than the dealer in Rhode Island. I figured it had a few test drives before I'd got it.
I wouldn't worry about 300 miles although I'd ask why so many if it was coming from 13 miles away. It might have been that where your dealer went to finalize the trade, the car had been sold and so he went to the next closest dealer.
The people dealers hire to be transporters are usually older retired people who are unlikely to abuse your car in transit. "The Transporter" (Jason Stratham) doesn't do dealer trades.
I'd be a bit miffed about having to pay 100% in advance. For that kind of payment I'd expect a factory order with 0 miles.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
No, but it's the thought that those things MIGHT have been done that freaks some people out.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
He most likely did not lie. He was probably told it was coming from New Jersey, then it changed. Managers arrange trades, not the sales people.
WELL! :mad: I've got half a mind not to share my wisdom with you.
I've had the same problem from time to time and it usually is a loose connection on the back of the black box thingy (modem?) that connects the cable with the computer. I just push in on the connection and the problem is solved.
I guess some day I'll have to get a new connector or maybe some barbed-wire to fix it for good.
Now go try my fix and remember, if it doesn't work you can always start kicking the computer until it does what you want.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible