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GMC Jimmy Starting and Stalling Problems



  • I have very similar starting problems as most on this forum but I also have other symptoms as a part of an ongoing problem that I have yet to see on here. I have read many posts on here that are very helpfull. I wish I would have known about this sooner. Would have saved me a lot of time.

    -hard start in cold weather (5-10 attempts before start)
    -won't start at all in really cold weather (like today!)
    -marginal fuel economy
    -marginal power
    -intermittent sluggishness and stalling in warm/hot weather.(summer time) It will happen without warning and will fall on it's face so-to-speak and will drive under very little throttle/load but anything more than that will cause it to spudder.
    -NO DTC CODES! :mad:

    There is no pattern for these symptoms other than temperature. In the fall, when the temp was nice, it ran just fine.

    What I have done:
    -OEM fuel pump installed 11 months ago along with new filter
    -Air filter, PCV, plugs, wires, cap, & rotor 5 months ago
    -57 PSI at schrader valve with key on, engine off
    -can hear relay
    -Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner

    I have read about replacing the spider assembly, getting the upgrade for it, throwing another pump in it..... all as ways of trying to fix it. I am a single college student. I can't afford to just keep throwing parts at it. Any other ideas that I havent thought of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys ;)
  • metoftmetoft Posts: 1
    I have a 01 jimmy .starting it every morning has become a job.its sounds as if it wants to then conks out.after 4-5 times it starts somtimes many more.after starting it will run great till next morning.I did new rottor,cap, plugs,wires,fuel filter ,fuel pump,engine temp ,o2 censors.better grade gas .it does start if starter fluid is sprayed.
  • ok i was wondering if u fig out the problem i to am having the same problem...i add fuel to it and it runs fine till next morning,,i put so much new parts on it it is a new jimmy ...
  • i cant start it unless i put gas in thethrottle body then it starts fine and runs fine...shut it off waite 10 min try to start it and it wont start itll crank and crank till i put fuel in ...any idea's....i got new oem pump mas air plugs wires fuel presure sensor cap rotor please help me
  • mine would not start at all
    it sounds as if you have a problem with your
    pressure somewhere the vortec v-6 needs at lest 60psi.
    did you put a completely assemble fuel pump or just a pump
    it sounds as if your fuel pump is leaking off after it sets awhile there is severl post on there that mjght help explain it can register for free ifyou want to post a question
  • kwbkwb Posts: 1
    '94 Jimmy Vin# 1GKDT13W7R2526131 - Cranks, but does not start; chk'd the spark plugs, and they are firing hot; replaced the fuel filter to no avail; ref'd Autozone's online Delmar publications for maintenance & repair, and believe the vehicle to be equipped with CMFI system, but I'm not absolutely sure. It (and other references) imply a dead-end red wire coming out of a relay that services the fuel pump - I have not been able to locate the "red" wire (or anything like unto it), and I'm not absolutely sure if I've even got the right relay (there are 3 relays on the firewall - two attached together on the driver's side, each with 4 wires coming out of them but no red, and another relay in the center firewall just above the engine which has 5 wires, including a red one, but it is attached and is hot - so I doubt that is "the" one).

    I've got to the point that I'm assuming the fuel pump is faulty, and the fuel tank had just been filled; however, when trying to stick a siphon tube down the filler tube, but can't even get it wet - is there a screen preventing the siphon from going all the way into the tank? If so, how can I drain the tank other than shooting it with my .44 magnum?

    Advice, help, etc., would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Dist. cap is right next to firewall, correct? It may be getting soaked as water gets in that area from the trailing edge of the hood. My '91 barely runs on wet's moisture inside the cap. I changed everything and put silicone where the cap sits onto the distributer. It helps. First dry out the inside of the cap (maybe spray WD-40/moisture displacer) then seal it up with silicone. Spray everything with WD40 and make sure your hood rain gutter is clear of debris so water isn't backing up and pouring onto the dist. cap.
  • THANKS ... will do .... funny local mechanics don't think of this solution ... more money in parts than silicone maybe ???
  • macvin64macvin64 Posts: 1
    95 jimmy wont start crank sensor good ignition module good cam sensor good feul pressure o.k fire o.k compression good timing good tac dosn't work please help
  • jeisbelljeisbell Posts: 1
    The fuel pump relay is located in the back of the glove box under a plastic cover marked "Relays". I had the same problem, gould pour a little gas in the intake and it would start up and run fine until you shut it off and let it set overnight. It took me awhile to locate the relays. Once I replaced the relay, it started fine. Good luck.
  • cisco999cisco999 Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy which has been having some issues. For about a week I have been driving it with some RPM Issues. I finally made an appointment with the mech. when it died on me while I was driving.Unable to start back up. They replaced the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Fixed my no start problem but my RPM's are still fluctuating like mad! When the Mech. test drove it they didnt notice any problem. But as soon as I started it they where jumping. While driving it jerks a little while I accelerate and cruise. Has not stalled at all yet except for the one time when my Distributer cap was messed up. Any Ideas???

  • jonnyringjonnyring Posts: 74
    You don't state the FI setup? T-body? Injectors? Prolly injectors.
    I do know that when an engine "hunts" (RPM's fluctuates) , one "fix" is to tap on a sticky Idle Control Valve (ICV). Then remove it and clean it with the appropriate cleaner.
    I don't know what your engine has, but it's ONE thing I know that causes "hunting".?
  • bassemirbassemir Posts: 2
    Just when all hope was just about lost I happened to find this forum. Holy smokes, lots of others have been having a very similar problem. After going through all 158 posts I have a idea what to try but would still welcome some advice.

    My daughter drives the Jimmy and has complained about it stalling for weeks (maybe months). I finally drove it once and it did stop. Just as I was slowing down to make a left hand turn. It started right back up. When it stopped I did her a distinct buzzing that lasted maybe 3 seconds and sounded like it was coming from under the hood in the middle of the firewall.

    We do have a check engine light condition. Code P0442. small leak / no flow condition. The car has been to the shop 3 times, first time "loose hoses", 2nd time, new gas cap, third time, replaced Evap vent value per a technical service bullentin. The light continues to come on. I reset it once at Autozone, it was back on later that day.

    I am guessing I have two problems. From all the postings I think I have a ignition switch problem, or is it the harness that causes the stalls. Should I try replacing the ignition switch? btw, my daughter has a key chain with lots of "crap" hanging from it. Could the aggravate the problem? For now I told her to drive with just the single key in the ignition to see if that makes a difference. (Note: I was using her keys when it happened to me).

    As for the check engine light, should I try replacing the vent solenoid? Is that solenoid on the purge tank behind the drivers side rear tire well?

    Any and all suggestions are welcome.
  • I have a '94 Jimmy with 218,000 miles on it. It started missing out and acting like it was starving for fuel. So I changed the fuel filter. It ran fine for a day or so. Then it did it again. This time worse. So I changed the fuel pump and checked the spark plugs. They were firing okay. I test drove it and it was fine. A 1/2 hour later it was just as bad as it started out. Any suggestions of what to do?
  • sargrantsargrant Posts: 1
    I was reading that the ICV could play a big role in the RPM's hunting. My '95 does great while accelerating and at cruise speeds but once you slow down, occasionally, the RPM's hunt and the truck sounds really rough. I know that I have an exhaust leak which I have been told that could be creating a lot of problems with the O2 sensor readings.
  • ol69stangol69stang Posts: 2
    Hi all. I have read all the posts and found my problem duplicated many times but there seems to be something different each time. I wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right direction on my problem.

    Engine cranks does not fire.
    I replaced Cap and Rotor and fuel filter.
    There is spark at the plugs.
    I tried spraying carb cleaner into the intake and there was no firing.

    Fuel Pressure to the CPI before start is 55 - 58 PSI. During cranking pressure falls to around 40. When I let off the starter the pressure spikes to 55 - 58. If I do not crank it I hear the pump relay click off and the pressure slowly drops to around 20 or so and stays there. Does this indicate a bad pump?

  • ol69stangol69stang Posts: 2

    I tried the carb cleaner thing again and got some response. It was trying to fire.

    Vehicle info: 1994 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6 CPI VIN code W stock condition AT

    SES code 32....EGR. This is intermittent.

  • etubbsetubbs Posts: 7
    im getten gas to the throttle boty and its not the computer how much pressure should it show on the pressure tesster for the fuel pump and what else could it be it ll start with either but thats it its a 97 jimmy 4.3 gimmie sum ideas please thanks ed
  • etubbsetubbs Posts: 7
    ive did evrything changed the filter on 97 jimmy 4.3 its gettin gas to the throttle body tested it with pressure guage said 60 psi when cranked it with either just had a tune up the works now it died its not the computer did i use the psi guage right and what else could it be thanks ed
  • etubbsetubbs Posts: 7
    my 97 jimmy 4.3 v6 keeps on blowing relays now it wont start at all could somone help me tell me what to look for now ............thanks ed
  • sknight1sknight1 Posts: 2
    HELP! I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. Got that and the fuel filter replaced. Ran good for about 2 weeks then it died on me going home from town. Let it sit over night as 2 tow bills later I was stuck. Went back the next morning and it started just fine. Now the darn thing, will start once it sits for about an hour after being ran, but once ran (Even just a couple of blocks) will not turn back over. I have had a mechanic come to the house 3 times but it doesnt act up when he is here, and had a diagnostic ran on it and it doesnt throw a code. Does anybody have any clue as to what might be wrong?
  • etubbsetubbs Posts: 7
    wish could help u more but it sounds like a cobe found under the hood on passengmputer problem should er side looks like a black box try replacing that or it could be the coil pack module ull find it on the side passenger try replacing it get it from a junk yard lots cheeper there not high stuff and trace ur wires see if you got any naked i no it s a lot but its worth it let me no what u come up with ed
  • etubbsetubbs Posts: 7
    look for the computer passenger sorry typing bad
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Welcome Ed - after posting, you may edit your post for 30 minutes. Just click on the Edit link.
  • kingpl456kingpl456 Posts: 1
    hi i have a 2000 jimmy 4x4 i starts when it is cold after driving for awhile it stalls and wont start until it is cool again replaced fuel pump plugs wires cap rotor and it still dow it it has spark it has fuel to the injector rail but still wont start replaced fuel pump relay in fuse box an still the same problem spray quick start in the trottle body wil kick like it wants to start as soon as it cools it starts write up can you suggest any thing thanks
  • immanaimmana Posts: 2
    if had the same problem years ago on a nissan 280zx. car would just die when it got hot. once engine cooled, it ran fine.

    not even sure if the jimmy has the same thing but the problem was (if i remember correctly) the ignition module. i remember it was a small black electonic module that sat on side of the distributor. easy replacement and fixed the problem.
  • I have had my 2000 GMC Jimmy in the shop now for 2 weeks... starting to figure it out
    I had the fuel pump replaced about 2 months ago... still having problems with starting after it gets hot... Mechanic just replaced the wiring harness for the iginition switch, and it starting throwing codes right and left... mechanic thinks the main computer brain for the Jimmy went out.. will post as we know more.. just wanted to give an update... Good Luck
  • FWIW:
    My '91 jimmy would start and run until it got up to temp....then die and not restart until cool. I pulled the codes and it said something about the "temp. read -15 degrees" or something to that effect.
    I replaced the temperature sending unit to the ECU (brain) and all is fine.
  • I have a 2005 GMC Canyon light duty truck and the engine light is on. Went to Autozone and they gave me the following problems?
    1. Purge or vent solenoids defective
    2. Check connector and wiring
    3. Fuel Saturated vapor canister
    4. Failed EVAP vent solenoid

    They said it could be one of the above. My question is how much does replacing/repairing any of these costs? As you know, auto shops are charging anywhere from $49.99 - $89.99 to check to see why the "check engine light" is on. I don't want to be charged for that since I already know what the problem is. Also, they may try to incorporate that cost into the repairs anyway if they knew that I didn't know how much it costs to repair in the 1st place. I've been going online but still can't find assistance with costs.
    Thanks, Sue
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