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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    edited May 2011
    This post is a precision from my last post, and is largely directed to Zaken; I wrote:

    I'm wondering if synthetic oil would provide more protection for my engine than anything else out there. Your thoughts?

    I wanted to say if 5W-20 Mobil 1 would help, other than the 0W-40 Mobil 1 you suggested, since the 0W-40 is not recommended by Toyota and would therefore void my warranty.
  • tony108tony108 Member Posts: 16
    Hello,

    I would just like to share my experience with our 2007 camry 2.4 4 cyl. When it was around 32k it started making a slight noise when not fully warmed up (piston slap type of noise). I tried lots of types of oil, mobil 1 synthetic 5w-20 and 5w-30, pennzoil 5w-20, mobil 1 0w-30, and even castrol 5w-20 and 5w30. It usually burns around 1qt. of oil every 5k miles. Recently, I tried the new pennzoil ultra 5w-30 and the sound every start-up disappeared. I don't know the consumption yet, I'm thinking that it has something to do with the european formula theory because that's what ferrari uses?
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Hmmm that's very interesting. Please keep us updated here to see if the oil fixed the oil consumption problem.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I would not expect the use of ANY multigrade oil in these viscosity ranges to void your warranty. There just isn't enough viscosity difference to cause problems. If the dealership told you that Mobil 1 0W-40 would void your warranty; I would ask the regional Toyota Customer Service Center to confirm that IN WRITING. Dealership employees are known to mouth off about things they really don't know, in order to promote their own products; or in order to project an image of confidence and authority.

    Here's a description of Mobil 1's 0W-40 in an Amazon listing:

    Product Description
    Mobil 1 0W-40 exceeding industry standards and the major leading builder requirements is the cornerstone of the performance reserve that lets Mobil 1 0W-40 keep performing well after conventional oils cannot. Mobil 1 0W-40 provides the widest range of protection -- providing the extreme cold start protection of an 0W grade and the high temperature protection of an SAE 40 grade. Mobil 1 0W-40 meets key industry and car builder specifications for: Mercedes MB 229.5, BMW Longlife 01, Porsche Approval List 2002, VW 502.00/505.00/503.01, GM-LL-A-025 (gasoline), GM-LL-B-025 (diesel), ACEA A3, B3/B4 and API SM/CF. Mobil 1's viscosity is recommended by many European car builders, its wide range providing unsurpassed levels of protection and an overall smooth driving experience. Mobil 1 0W-40 keeps engines starting in Arctic-extreme cold, and it cleans deposits, sludge and varnish often formed in high temperature operating conditions. If you want total engine protection, excellent fuel economy and a product recommended for applications under warranty, you want Mobil 1. The world's leading synthetic motor oil, it features a proprietary SuperSyn anti-wear technology that provides performance beyond conventional motor oils. Technology that allows Mobil 1 to exceed the toughest standards of Japanese, European and U.S. car builders -- and to provide exceptional protection against engine wear, under normal or even the most extreme conditions.

    PLEASE NOTE THE LAST SENTENCE. This oil could not exceed the toughest standards of Japanese car builders and also void their warranties!!!!

    What is probably going on here is twofold; 1> 0W-40 is not mentioned as a recommended oil in the North American Toyota owner's manuals; because of a POLITICAL ISSUE. But if this oil is not mentioned in owners manuals; that does NOT mean its use will void warranty coverage. This situation came about because, in their well meaning ignorance; the US Congress passed a federal law requiring all new car dealers to only use oils labeled "energy conserving" in every car they service. Energy conserving oil is produced by thinning out the oil so that it creates less friction. The effect of this modification is to improve gas mileage by typically less than 1 mile per gallon. But there is also a substantial downside to this trick; the downside is that it reduces the oil's protection against piston wear and increases the rate of oil consumption.

    Shortly after this legislation was introduced, and all new car dealers in the US were forced to use only this type of oil; Mazda RX-8 rotary engines began failing at abnormally low mileages (40,000-70,000 miles) in US service. At the same time; RX-8 rotaries in Canada and Europe were running well beyond 100,000 miles with no problems. The Canadian and European RX-8s were using the manufacturer's recommended 20W-50 oil viscosity; which had now become illegal for dealerships to use in the US.

    At this same time; Toyota owners began noticing and complaining of increased piston slap and oil consumption; particularly in Camry V-6s.

    As a result of this situation; knowledgable owners stopped having their oil changed by dealerships; and instead began having independent garages change their oil or changing it themselves; so they could continue using Mobil 1 in 0W-40.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    edited May 2011
    I don't know how to thank you Zaken; I'll check out the availability of 0W-40 here.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    If I were as concerned about oil cosumption as you seem to be I wouldn't use anything other than "30" weight, 40 if it's available. FE will suffer slightly with a constant viscosity oil, but...
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It is refreshing to find someone who is open minded enough to recognize sound advice when they see it. Any store that sells Mobil 1 can order 0W-40 from their distributor, if they don't already carry it. You can also buy it directly from a regional Mobil oil distributor in your area. But be sure to not use any other brand or viscosity. The post about Pennzoil european formula 5W-30 in their super synthetic grade sounds encouraging; but that oil would not have the high temperature protection or the low consumption rate of Mobil 1.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited May 2011
    While I share your perspective on the exaggerated importance that he placed on the rate of oil consumption; old buddy: I'm going to have to disagree with your recommendation of a single grade oil. The reason that single viscosity oils have become essentially obsolete in modern vehicles is that the low temperature lubricating quality of a single grade oil is so inferior to that of multigrades that it actually shortens engine life!!! It is the ability of multigrade oil to flow into tight spaces during the critical first few minutes of engine operation that has been a major factor in enabling the consistently longer engine life which modern engines are now capable of. This is why the use of oils with zero or five weight cold viscosities have suddenly become so popular. Top lubrication engineers have explained that OVER 90% OF ALL ENGINE WEAR TAKES PLACE IN THE FIRST 5 MINUTES OF ENGINE OPERATION. As a corollary to this statement; they have also said that "If an engine could run at normal operating temperature from the moment it started; it would essentially last forever."

    Back in the days when I was working on British motorcycles; we always noted how much clattering mechanical noise Triumph 650 Bonneville engines produced. Here in California; the hotshoes always used SAE 50 oil in those motors; because they would blow up under hard driving if thinner oil was used. But one friend rebuilt his Bonneville; and then broke it in on 10W-30. And that motor sounded like a finely polished jewel. The owner then switched it over to SAE 50 when it was fully broken in; and it began clattering and sounding loose, just like all the other Bonnevilles.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    But I think you might agree that the higher, single viscosity, 30, or even 40 weight oil would definitely result in lowering the oil consumption.

    All else be damned.

    But as the engines in my yard equipment, lawn/garden tractor,etc, wear and begin to use/burn more oil my practice is to use a higher fixed weight annual drain and refill.

    I have never done that with any car but then I have never had reason to worry about oil consumption.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Well, a mind is like a book; it works best when it's open. :)

    There's one thing that I still don't get--if this is "normal", then why are so many owners not experiencing this problem? After all, this is a mass produced engine, and so if it's a design issue, then we'd see it across the board, but the fact is that it's not widespread. I know that not all engines are exactly alike, but they're built under pretty tight tolerances these days; wouldn't it mean that mine missed the mark?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited May 2011
    "..mass produced...

    Random component tolerances, just must be within specific +/1 range.

    Yes, TIGHT individual component tolerances, overall tolerances may end up on theFAR of the bell curve.

    I4, number 1 piston is full plus weight tolerance, full minus diameter tolerance. Number 4 is full - weight tolerance, shall I go on?

    All the tolerances in your engine, just by pure happenstance, randomness, ended up in the wrong end of overall tolerances insofar as those that dictate oil consumpion.
  • rcallarcalla Member Posts: 1
    I've had the same problem twice-after they fail it comes back to normal-what did you find out the problem to be-Thanks rcalla
  • npolitenpolite Member Posts: 33
    Hi. Is this oil consumption a problem on particular Camry year models or is this with all of the current generation Camrys? We are planning on buying one soon (maybe today) and would like to know any known issues.

    I know that the current generation K engine has some people reporting engine oiconsumptionon as well.
  • npolitenpolite Member Posts: 33
    Also I was seeing complaints about premature tire wear on 2009 Camry's. is the issue with the tire itself or something overall with the design of the car?
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    edited May 2011
    Some Camrys come with Michellin and some with Bridgestone from the factory. OEM Bridgestone tires don't hold for more then 25K miles.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    As far as I know, the oil burning issue is with the current Camry generation. I can't comment on the premature tire wear though, sorry.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    My 2007 camry had a leak that almost destroyed the car. Toyota refused to tow the car or pay for the repair. Before you buy check the TSB on the year you are buying and check to make sure that all recalls have been done on your car. My friend bought a Toyota only to find that he had to bring it back the next week to have recall work done by dealer. Be very, very careful.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    edited May 2011
    Did you have oil leak? Where was it coming from? Nowdays almost every car owner goes through the recalls. Toyota tries to be extra careful now after it was dragged through all the mumbo jumbo with non-existing acceleration problem and prefers to issue a recall even if problem most likely will never develop. So issuing a recall Toyota shows that it wants to take care about an issue at no cost, don't see how this could be viewed as a negative.
    BTW Only small number of 2.4L 4cyl engines affected by the oil burning, most of the time problem is very mild. On my 2009 Camry I need to add 1/4 of a quart after 2000-2500 miles. It doesn't get worse with millage. 2.4L engine had been around for quite a while and proven to be extremely reliable. While I don't like adding oil to my almost 3 year old "new " car, I don't see how this is a major problem. As far as I know current Camrys use 2.7L 4cyl engine that doesn't have oil burning issues.
  • npolitenpolite Member Posts: 33
    Thanks luckyseven for your advice. The only one thing that I didn't like when I test drove the car was, when I held the steering wheel straight the car was actually pulling hard to the right. I understand that it will eventually go that way from crowning but I tell you that for the majority of the test drive (only 30 miles on the car), I was holding the steering wheel at a 5-10 degree angle to the left. The dealership said I could try another one today though but I don't know if I want to go through the song and dance again.
    From what I heard on other forums this is normal. I have been driving Hondas for 15 years and haven't had this issue (unless it was an alignment problem). If it is indeed normal, I can't understand how owners can tell when they have an alignment problem.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    edited May 2011
    I don't believe this normal, my Camry doesn't pull to any side. While this could be happening because of the tire crowning, I'd first ask dealer to check wheel alignment to rule that out. Even fresh from the factory cars can have wheels misaligned due to shipping or god knows what issues. Ask to test drive few more similar model cars and choose one that can keep straight. Also ask dealer for a car with Michelin tires. Don't settle for anything that makes you feel uncomfortable, they should bend backwards before you sign a purchase agreement. Also don't buy any unneeded extras that finance department will try to push.
  • cherann24cherann24 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2007 Camry LE with a small oil leak - 1 or two drops a night. At first I was told this was probably normal after an oil change - however - it is consistent and has been going on for some time, so at the last oil change they supposedly found that the oil pan gasket was seeping and the estimate to replace the gasket would be $374. Does this sound reasonable and where is the best place to get something like this fixed?

    Thank you.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It often is not necessary to replace the oil pan gasket if it leaks. Oil pan gasket leakage frequently develops when the pan bolts loosen up from vibration. In those instances, just tightening the oil pan bolts is all it takes to greatly reduce or eliminate the leaks. This repair takes less than an hour (probably costs much less than $75); and can be done by any independent garage which does engine work. Look for a shop which employs ASE certified mechanics.

    $374 for replacing the oil pan gasket sounds awfully high to me. Virtually every shop in town uses a standardized labor time estimating book called a flat rate manual. This book lists the amount of time it takes for an experienced mechanic to do each repair job on popular vehicles. Phone a local repair shop and ask them the flat rate time estimate for replacing the oil pan gasket on a 2007 Camry. You'll need to tell them whether your car has a 4 cylinder or V-6 engine. Once you have the time estimate (better get one from several shops to make sure they give you accurate information) all you need to do to determine the fairness of a price quote is to find out the hourly labor rate of the shop you're dealing with; and multiply that figure times the flat rate time estimate. The result will be the labor cost at that shop for the job (plus the cost of a new oil pan gasket; which will probably be less than $20). Some shops may want to also change the oil as part of this operation; which would add the cost of oil and maybe an oil filter to the job.

    Sometimes an oil change place installs a non standard or poorly fitting gasket on the oil drain plug. Other oil change places do not adequately tighten the oil filter; or do not adequately tighten the oil drain plug. If the place which changes your oil is doing that; there will always be an oil leak. There are too many inexperienced or fearful employees out there. I would get more than one trustworthy opinion about the source of the leak. There are also too many know-it-alls out there who need to sound important; or who want to take your money.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hi there.

    Couldn't agree with you more on the downward decline of Camry quality. I had a 1997 4 cyl stickshift.........and LOVED it. Gave it to my daughter, still running strong, when we bought our 2007 in June '06. The new one is NOTHING like its 10 year old predecessor. Shakes, rattles, shifting (auto) irregularities, and now an annoying 'clatter' (for lack of a better word) coming from underneath the front end when driving at moderate speeds over uneven surfaces.

    Not inclined to buy another Camry after all this. (And we had a third one BEFORE the 97, so it's not like we're disloyal!) They've cheapened the marque as far as I'm concerned.

    BTW, if your mechanic isn't sure where to look for the noise, ask him if there are stabilizer links on the ends of the front sway bar. (not sure if there even IS a sway bar on the front of these puppies......but that's what was making the noise on my 325i; it was a $27 part and a $30 installation......cheap to get rid of that migraine-inducing rattle!)

    Good luck, buddy.

    Mike
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Agreed on all the points from zaken1. Lots of "loose things" could be the cause of your "leak".

    The only thing I don't see referenced is the "THEY" you refer to. Who dat?
    Additionally, how long have you owned the car? Did you buy it new? Regardless of who you bought it from.....who's been doing the maintenance? Has it had this leak from the day you bought it?..........or just since 'someone' worked on it.

    Call me skeptical/critical.....but I'd FIRST be pointing my finger at the party who's been doing things to the car since you bought it.....assuming it didn't leak when you first brought it home.

    Just my 2c.

    Michael
  • cherann24cherann24 Member Posts: 7
    It's a 4 cylinder and I am the only and original owner of the vehicle. All the oil changes and replacement of the water pump have been done at the dealership. I think the brakes were serviced once by Tires Plus and that's where the tires get rotated. So - If I blame someone - it would have to be the dealership.

    It appears this isn't a big problem so by delay getting it fixed isn't a problem. I check the oil level periodically and it's fine, so I'm not losing that much between oil changes. The vibration makes sense as this vehicle does seem to have more vibration to it than the Toyota I owned back in 1980.

    As for maintenance - all I have had done is have the oil changed, fluids checked and the water pump was replaced while still under warranty. It has 112,000 miles on it - should I be doing any other service. According to the manual - I don't need to - but the dealership is always recommending other things.

    Thank you.
    (My ex always took care of the cars - so I am feeling a little lost)
  • fixmyhousefixmyhouse Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Toyota Camry with a v6. The car ran real rough and then stalled. The car will turn over but will not start. We replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump will not work with the key in the ignition and turned on but will work if we run a hot wire. Also the injectors are getting electrical fire but not clicking when we try to start the car. We are thinking the fuel pressure regulator might be bad. Would this stop the injectors from firing. Does this sound like we are heading towards the right direction for this car? Any other suggerstions. Thanks
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited June 2011
    A problem with the fuel pressure regulator would not affect whether the injectors are being triggered. Besides; the fuel pressure regulator on this model almost never fails. But there is another part which typically causes this problem: It is called the camshaft position sensor. This sensor tells the computer which stroke in the combustion cycle a given cylinder is on; and that information is used to determine the triggering of the injectors. Cam position sensors are known to fail; and they cause the symptoms you described when they go out. So I would have that part replaced.

    Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com) sells an OE quality Beck Arnley cam position sensor for this model under part #1800500 for $47.79 plus shipping. Here's a link to a photo of this part; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2785371
  • fixmyhousefixmyhouse Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. We will try this and see if this takes care of the problem.
  • tulips4utulips4u Member Posts: 2
    I am curious to know whether anyone thought that 24,500 was too soon to be having brake, struts and seat mechanism problems. Could these problems be my fault? :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2011
    Depends on how hard you drive the vehicle, what kind of roads you drive on and the speeds you drive, and how much you weigh/how often you're adjusting seat.

    My daughter who has taken our 2007 LE as her own, is a very reasonable driver, on good roads. Rear pads needed replaced at 52K miles (mainly highway driving), front's are still fine when I recently checked them at 60K. No leaky struts, and since she is the single driver now, never adjusts the seat.

    For daughter #2 on the other hand, I needed to replace all 4 brakepads at 45K on her vehicle, same roads. She also is a reasonable driver, but does definitely drive slightly harder.

    Personally, I've replaced some of my other vehicles front pads at 25 and 30K.

    There may have been life left on those pads of yours, did you look at them when they took them off and replaced them?
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    I have an '05 camry with 53000 mi and have had none of those repairs made.

    Who told you to replace these items? If you were a cab driver in NYC then

    I could understand. But not for pleasure driving even if only in the city.
  • donewtoyotadonewtoyota Member Posts: 4
    My 2007 Camry had only 17,500 miles when I was informed by Toyota service that THE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS WERE WARPED. ALSO FOUND THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS WERE SUBJECT TO AN UPDATED BRAKE PAD TO REPAIR A BRAKE VIBRATION. REPLACED THE FRONT AND REAR BRAKE PADS. RESURFACED ALL 4 ROTORS. PAD KIT, DISC BRAK $132.37, PAD KIT DISK BRA $57.40,
    TOTAL PARTS $189.77, TOTAL LABOR & PARTS $543.16
    I've owned 5 other Toyotas and NEVER had to repair brakes and rotors
    this soon. I'm very disappointed.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    edited July 2011
    Where do you rotate tires? Very often rotors get warped when lug nuts over torqued with impact wrench. I prefer to do tire rotation myself and always release lug nuts to the specs if someone else does the rotation for me. MY BOTH TOYOTAS (CAMRY AND HIGHLANDER) DON'T HAVE WARPED ROTORS AND PADS/ROTORS ARE STILL ORIGINAL.
  • dwb2dwb2 Member Posts: 24
    I had the same problem with my 07 Camry and dealer made complete repairs under warranty. The car was actually out of warranty by time but they fixed it anyway.
  • ukiemom2219ukiemom2219 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! mY 2007 Camry all of a sudden has the maintenance required light showing on my dash. I just had my oil changed last month. THe manual says that it is the oil that needs to be changed but can it be something else?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    No, the odometer is what triggers the maintenance light. It sounds like you had the oil changed early, before the light came on; and the car subsequently reached the mileage which triggered the light. Just go to the place that changed your oil; and ask them to shut the light off.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    When they changed the oil, they forgot to reset the light. You can do it yourself if you want. Instructions are in your owner's manual. It will take you a minute or so. Turn key off with the trip odometer showing trip A. Then, hold down the trip odometer, turn key to on, and watch the display - when it gets to zero, you are done - release odometer button, turn key off.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    I had no idea the Camry was this 'sophisticated'......not to mention the Walmart guys who change my oil!!! LOL
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    GM cars have had this feature for many many years so nothing new as far as I know.
  • fmwegafmwega Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Why is Toyota ignoring water pump problems in 2007 camry? I was told by a Toyota dealer that the water pump for my 2007 camry need replacement and it very expensive. My camry has only 65,000 miles. It appeares that this a major problem with 2007 Camry. I used to like Toyota, but I'm loosing trust in them. To much problems. Please I need help.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Welcome to the world of "Skeptical Toyota Owners".
    I 'joined' when I discovered (while researching my automatic transmission problems) that Toyota and its dealers have a "code of silence" to only inform customers who COMPLAIN about some related 'symptoms' that there may actually be a SAFELY concern with their automobile.

    In my case, there was even a published Technical Service Bulletin issued about my lagging acceleration problem (dangerous at intersections), but my dealer didn't even KNOW about it......AND he was reluctant to believe ME when I told him I'd found a copy of it on the Internet. NOT GOOD!!
  • nmarcel1nmarcel1 Member Posts: 21
    I agree.... I have 20K on my 2007 Camry LE... I started to hear the chatter which is the indication that the water pump was going.... I went onto to Utube and saw a video on how to change it. It was not an easy job but I changed the pump myself which cost me about $65 bucks for the water pump and 4-5hrs of labor. I was really angry that this Camry's water pump was shot after 20K of mileage. I am extremly disappointed in the quality of this car. Let me know if you find something out there were there was a defect with these pumps.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Unless you see water, coolant, puddling under the car from time to time your dealer is simply blowing SMOKE.
  • cherann24cherann24 Member Posts: 7
    Mine went out just before the warranty period was up - so it was replaced free of charge. Unfortunately, since we purchased this vehicle and I have had to endure a divorce and cannot replace the vehicle, so I ended up with two unreliable things in my life.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    coolant, puddling under the car from time to time your dealer is simply blowing SMOKE.

    The red long-life coolant dries to a crystal solid, so unless it is a very large leak, you won't see a puddle on the ground, just pink crud around the waterpump.
  • detjohnodetjohno Member Posts: 1
    The throttle lag IS DANGEROUS! My dealer claims nothing is wrong. Anyone out there have the Service Bulletin number? This is my third, and last, Camry. Next time I'm looking at the Hyundai or Honda. I also have a 2005 tacoma 4-dr PreRunner. It's a great truck!
  • cynical8145cynical8145 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has on 07 Camry. The speedometer is fast by 4 mgh. So if the speedometer shows 60 mph we are really traveling 56mph. I talked to the service lady at Silsbee, Tx. Toyota and she says Toyota sets all speedometers up that way. Telling her I wanted it fixed she says they cannot. So after a short conversation of depreciation, and other sorts of problems with this con-cept (con). I told her I wanted to talk to someone who cares about this problem and I wanted it fixed. After being on hold for 10 or so min. she came back, not finding anyone that cared, and said someone would call me back with the docoments stating that this is Toyota policy. I wonder if they are really that dumb to put it in writing? As of right now we have about 55600 miles on the odometer and Toyota would owe me some 3706 miles.
  • thetxstangthetxstang Member Posts: 28
    I'm glad you posted this. I have a 2007 Camry XLE V6 and noticed a few months after I purchased it that the speedometer was reading around 3 mph higher than the actual speed. I thought it was just my particular Camry. I hadn't realized Toyota purposefully does this.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Very common. I am not sure all car manufacturers do this, but I bet most, if not all, do. Reason - they would get sued by someone if they were even 1 mph too high. I have never heard of the miles being off, just the speedometer.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    I recently say some light pink and white crud under my car. It was only the size of a nickel or so. At first I thought could it be from the airconditioner drain. Then I saw a post on this site mentioning the water pump. I have only noticed this crud once. Is there a way to look at the water pump without taking the engine apart.

    Thanks ofr any help, chuck
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