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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

1235715

Comments

  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Car was running very rough, changed plugs and coils now will only turn over, will not start. I know the negative battery cable needs to be replaced, but it will try to start.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Car was running very rough, changed plugs and coils now will only turn over, will not start.

    Were any codes read before changing all of that? Working blind is costly. Better test than guess. If nothing else was modified (all that was disconneceted was reconnected, coils, IAC valve, hoses...) ...then is there any doubt about quality of parts installed..were coils new or salvage?...
    Please provide any other relevant info that would procure a clue...
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    these codes where erad

    P1624
    P0326
    P0171
    P1115
    P0300
    P0303
    P1505
    P0130
    recently changed valve cover gasket and we bought the knock sensor but have not put it on because I cannot find it on the car, the coild where new.
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Is there a sensor that will causes the coils to fire that may be malfunctioning.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Generic codes
    P0130 O2 sensor Short in Front O2 sensor wiring between C211-11 and C211-12.
    Misplaced, bent, loose or corroded connector terminals.
    Faulty Front O2 sensor.

    P0300 303 various misfire/misfire plug 3 : this plug is fed by a wire from the front coil. Were the wires to 1 and 3 changed too with the coils? This little piece of wire is able to cause problems. 't was a problem with mine last summer.

    P0171 lean (caused by lots of possible factors..possibly by the faulty O2 sensor)
    P0326 knock Open or short to GND between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
    Source of high resistance between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
    Faulty Knock Sensor.

    Proprietary codes
    P1624 signal request
    P1115 loss of coolant temperature signal Short to GND or B+ between ECM and TCM on ECT line.
    Open between ECM and TCM on ECT line.

    P1505 idle control Open or high resistance between Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and ECM.
    Short to B+ or GND between IAC and ECM.
    Faulty IAC.

    Were these the codes BEFORE changes were made? or is this a recent code check (after initial codes were cleared) ?

    There seems to be loss of contact with a lot of sensors and actuators.. This car is known for fualty plugs, corrosion, to the point that even KIA advises to solder wires directly to sensors..but I do not like that; I'd check and clean and test all connections to sensors mentioned; MAF, IAC valve should be checked for continuity. IAC is not prone to failure, but can be dirty too.
    Was this car used off road and run across rivers or mud ponds? (there are nice (??) videos of this on the web) ..or used in areas where salt is used in winter ?
    Ahh..and knock sensor is here image but does not cause starting problems. Priority is lead to plug 3 and proper IAC valve operation, and connecetor to MAF.

    If you go back to spark plugs, pull #1 wire and insert a spare spark plug and start to see if you have spark....otherwire you'll never know.
    Yes, failed Crank Position Sensor will impair spark...but usually it gives advance signs..like starts easily, then stops once engine warm...will restart once cold...
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    these where read after Hold light started flashing, before plugs, wires, and coils where changed but after gasket was changed. We found out gasket needed changing when we went to change plugs and found one with oil, so gasket and plugs where changed then, had the codes read and the guy suggested resetting computer by unhooking battery, we did that and the car ran perfectly, no issues or lights or anything for about 2 days, then lights came CEL and Hold came back on, started running bad again and it would not start . That is when the coils and new plugs and wires where replaced, again for the plugs. Still nothing and we cannot have it read again because we cannot get it anywhere.

    no it was only driven on plain ole roads.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Valve cover gasket issue is common. Changed mine also last summer.
    NOw, investigation: just to be sure, I'd pull the IAC valve out and clean it. Stuck IAC valve was mentioned in a lot of Sportage forums as causing rough idle and starting problems...and it can cause lean mixture code too. Check all hoses and connection around purge valve front right fender....and again, check all sensor connectors for corrosion....
    What is your operation environment at this time? Snow?
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    operating conditions??? I am in Texas and it is 75 here, no rough conditions.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    75°F....I envy you. I used to love winter....way too long now.
    There are code readers at less than $100 and I think they may save more than their price by cutting blind investigation. reading the numbers as soon as they come can help...and some numbers have no incidence on operational availability so it cuts anxiety.
    But...a lot of troubles also go without generating any codes....and some other codes are their consequence, not their cause.
    Whatever you find, please report: everyone learns from the other here .
    I'd still be tempted to pull a plug wire and see for spark....and make a fuel pressure test on the fuel rail (42-45 psi) : spark and fuel are a must...and this issue must be cleared before anything else. I built a fuel pressure tester with an a/c refilling kit and water pump pressure gauge. THe check ball must be taken out of the connector . THe schrader valve for a/c is same as fuel rail.
    image
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    The car does have fire just do not know if it has gas. What should we do now???
  • My 99 kia sportage has ran great for the first few months after purchasing it, but recently the Hold Light has come on, and it wont go off. My car wont shift out of low gear, so I cannot drive it. Im on a tight budget and my dad is willing to do the work if he knows where to start. Hes tried finding a repair manual and no one has them! Any suggestions on the hold light?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..is the HOLD light ON steady or flashing ? ( this question is in addition to my other question about using the little button on the shifter... :) ) ...but now..you mean it will not go out of LOW ?....When in HOLD, normally, (using the little button), it starts in 2nd and will shift to 3rd but at a much higher RPM.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The car does have fire just do not know if it has gas. What should we do now???
    ....short of testing fuel rail pressure.....you can buy a spray can of starter fluid and use it while trying to start...
    DO you hear the fuel pump "primer" 2 sec buzz when you trun the key to ON? (to help hearing it, flip the rear seat and have someone listen near the trap under rear right seat.
  • The hold light is flashing. Not sure what that means compared to it being on steady? Also, I did try the button on the shifter. Haha. Its just stuck! And when i drive, it will go fine until about 40 mph then it sounds like its trying to shift into a higher gear to go faster, but it cant get there. It goes maybe 45 mph max?
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Ok I'M frustated did not hear no buzz for 2 secs so took hoses off of pump and turned key on and nothing happen so tried to start with hoses off and barely had any gas so i changed pump and strainer. After I changed pump still nothing when u turn key on and barely any gas when u try to start but give gas when try to start plenty of pressure. But car will not even try to start when everything back together. I did spray some stater fluid direct to injectors and seem to try to start but nothing so I sprayed a little more and nothing just turn over. Please any thought?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ....hoses off of pump and turned key on and nothing happen...
    It is certain car will never start if fuel is not delivered, First when pump does not "buzz" is testing for 12v supply..this comes from relay under hood:
    image
    There are 2 identical relays, abd they can be switched one for the other..but both are essential for engine to start...first try just to remove them and replug them. CHeck fuses in box.
    COrrosion and ground connections (under battery tray) are a common problem.
    12V could be supplied direct to fuel pump for a test.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The hold light is flashing. Not sure what that means compared to it being on steady?
    Steady HOLD is when you use the button on shifter to disable overdrive(4th).
    Flashing HOLD mean there is a problem and error codes are stored.
    is the Check Engine Light ON?..probably; arrange for reading the codes. Autozone read them for free. Copy the code numbers .

    Have you checked the sensors near thermostat as suggested by GaryInOz at 4x4?
  • Thank you so much for the info about auto zone. We replaced the sensors near the thermostat. no luck. We got the codes read after. These came up
    P0507
    P1623
    P1795
    any ideas? Thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Ok I read you have got the code meaning by Axe at 4x4. But you can get all the info about that by yourself by registering at kiatechinfo No one has proprietary rights to that info :D
    That is free and you will have access to all the codes (DTC) . their meaning and the areas of concern that might be inspected for the cause. DO not take ALL the possibilities as components you must change: tests must be made to verify if the mentioned component is the actual culprit.It happens that connectors to the components are corroded and just need cleaning, a common problem with Sportage. .
  • kaz32kaz32 Posts: 1
    Please help, I have had my Kia for 4 years and never had any trouble till tonight :cry:
    When I break the warning light comes on followed by the ABS and then goes off when I pull away
  • My 99 Sportage is finally giving up on me. My check engine light has came on before and I fixed the car with a tune up. Now the check engine light is flashing. I have changed spark plugs, wires, and a coil pack. I still have same problem... Misfire on cylinder 4. Idles really rough when sitting and gets horrible gas mileage. Does anyone have any suggestions. I am out of solutions.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    First check fluid level in brake reservoir; fill up as necessary.
    IF this does not correct the problem, provoque auto adjustment or rear brakes in the following manner:
    find a place where you can back-up 10-15 feet without danger.
    Engage in reverse, then accelerate fast then brake hard to a stop
    FOrward where you were and repeat 10 times. After this operation, you will probably feel the brake pedal travel has shortened.
    Auto adjust for rear brakes operates in backward only and if brake is always used softly in reverse, brakes do not adjust and take more and more travel to apply and while front pads are always tight, it takes more travel to apply the rear and this mismatch causes BRAKE light to come ON"
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I have changed ...a coil pack.
    A few "simple" checks first:
    Confirm you have changed the rear coil pack..
    Also..confirm which light is flashing: CEL or HOLD ?
    Was there any oil on plug 4?
    CHeck gas filler cap is tight and all hoses to purge tank (front of battery) are OK.
    CHeck that all hoses that connect ot top of fuel tank are OK (remove cover under rear right seat).
    Remove and clean Idle Air COntrol valve
    Measure voltage when engine runs.14 to 14.5 volts desired.
    Misfire on cylinder 4. Idles really rough when sitting and gets horrible gas mileage
    ..I"d expect more codes..that sounds like improper fuel mixture. Can you check codes again? (MAF, O2..)
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Ok should the fuel pump buzz when you first turn key because I hear nothing I have changed pump and both relays. When hoses are off of pump and you turn key barley any gas comes out but when you press pedal there is more pressure but no 45 psi. and also I tried to check connections under battery tray but how are you supposed to remove tray or get under tray to check.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Instead of looking for failed grounds, I'd run new grounds from battery to engine block and then to some body contact, say firewall. The info about grounds under battery is passed forward from another forum member, I've not checked that out myself.
    You say "when pressing pedal there is more pressure"....this implies the engine is running, right? ANd indeed the regulator senses vacuum and increases fuel pressure with depressing throttle.
    With the new pump you have, I'd look for other causes. Unhappily, this problem comes frequently and other than some that were solved with changing the fuel pump relay, other definitive causes have not been clearly reported.
    Did you feed the pump direct with 12V and listen to the sound it makes or the resulting fuel pressure? Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge?
    I would also install a voltmeter to measure is 12V is applied to the fuel pump relay coil contacts : you need help to do that as it shoudl show for only 1 or 2 sec when first turning the key to ON. You must read it on the first try cause the computer will prevent repetitive primer to avoid flooding if key is turned to ON repetitively with too small a delay .

    FuelPumpCircuit
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    this circuit rather (was not able to edit the previous post):
    circuit99
    Notice pin numbers for the relay coil are not he same.... I'm not too sore which year was the other one..will check...means they changed relay type over the years.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi i drive my 1999 kia sportage around town all the time and i have never had a problem with the temp gage going above half way. I took it on the freeway tonight and a few minutes into driving the gage went all the way to the H :sick: i then just turned the heat on and it lowered it a little and kept it stable until i was able to get back home. I am just wondering if this could be the thermostat and if so howw do i go about changing it. I am used to Hondas so i have no idea where it even is on my kia. Any help would be great thanks..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Depends in which environment you are driving. Failure of fan clutch has been reported a number of times ...that would have more impact in hot weather, if A/C is used but much less on the open road as windstream is generally enough to control temperature. Remember that DEF and HEAT/DEF positions on the heater trig the A/C ON without asking you for the permission.
    Thermostat is here:
    image
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i have another quick question how many fans are supposed to be infront of the radiator. as i am looking and i only have one, and when i turn the air conditioner on it works fine (is that the same fan that would be cooling my car off?) I am so confused as i know with teh civics it was usually just the thermostat and it was an easy fix. Also i was wondering if you had a cure for my lights, my headlights as well as the lights inside my car are pulsating is there anything i can do to fix that? I thought i had seen someone with the similair problem on here but i was unable to find the post.. I just want to say i really appriciate all the help you are giving me on this car..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THere is one electric fan ahead of the radiator, and the clutch fan between engine and rad. THe electric fan is turned on with the A/C....I have not checked if it would kick ON at a given coolant temperature even without the A/C.

    Several owners have replaced the clutch fan with an electric fan when they figured out the clutch was shot..

    THe "pulsating" headlights let me think the alternator belt is slipping....can you have a helper make a real time voltage measurement when that happens? (possibly from the lighter plug). WHen that occurs, what happens if you turn the heater blower off?
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i just got back from driving the car and the fan was running and the temp gauge actually went to hot just driving around town. I am assuming that would be the thermostat sticking.

    Now my next question would be what kind of instrument would i need to check the voltage? And in answer to your question about the heater when i turn it on they pulsate worse.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 sportage, there is no power it feels like it is running out of gas. I have just replaced the air filter, coil, sparkplugs, timing belt, water pump, fuel filter and then had to change the battery. Could this be the fuel pump and if so is there a way to check prior to purchasing a new one.
    Thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Ort102 wrote: Ok i just got back from driving the car and the fan was running and the temp gauge actually went to hot just driving around town. I am assuming that would be the thermostat sticking. Now my next question would be what kind of instrument would i need to check the voltage? And in answer to your question about the heater when i turn it on they pulsate worse.

    WHere do you live? What is the outside temperature? Yes begin by simply removing the thermostat....open, remove and close: this will make or break the thermostat hypothesis. There are other more severe causes that would keep the temp high even without a thermostat....like a blown head gasket...but it is not a common issue with the Sporty: there are a few cases, but not a common syndrome like the GM3.4

    OBviously your alternator does not deliver high amps and is overloaded by heavy demand....again I'd check alternator belt for wear and tightness. I think it slips. Otherwise, the built in regulator can be shot...go with the belt first. If it pulses like you say, then voltage goes up and down...and a common electrician multimeter , digital or needle type, 20$ range, will simply confirm....but then even the steady state voltage could be interesting if tightening (changing) the belt does not cure the problem. NOrmal voltage when engine runs should be 14.1 - 14.7
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    sue45 wrote:
    I have a 2001 sportage, there is no power it feels like it is running out of gas. I have just replaced the air filter, coil, sparkplugs, timing belt, water pump, fuel filter and then had to change the battery. Could this be the fuel pump and if so is there a way to check prior to purchasing a new one.

    ...had to change the battery....??? why?
    WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Test voltage (14.2-14.7)
    (if that was original battery....it was expected death).

    Testing for fuel pressure at fuel rail (40 psi) will make the point about fuel pump....
    don't change the fuel pump just for testing!

    There have been cases of blocked catalyser....again do not change a catalyser just for testing....disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise....(That's fun)...
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    I live in ohio and it was actually in theh 40's last night when it started. then today the temp has dropped drastically and is expected to drop more tomorrow. How would i know if the head gasket was blown? I also went to the part store and bought a new thermostat however, i have to wait til tomorrow to replace it due to the fact they did not have the gasket in.
    I will also tomorrow check on the belt and see if it is loose, if it is is there any certain torque it needs to be set at or should i just tighten it? The as soon as i can get my hands on a multimeter i will check the voltage. now would i stick both the pos and neg in the cig lighter or just the positive?
    Thanks again
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THe positive probe on center of lighter plug, the negative to any metal part of the body, including the outside ring of the lighter plug. Of course, you can test direct on the battery posts .
    BLown gasket will show other signs: heater will provide sporadic heat, temp needle will fluctuate, steaming, having to top off the radiator and coolant tank from time to time....
    Removing the radiator cap and running engine after topping off the rad if necessary could show gaz bubbles coming out (that is exhaust leaking into the cooling system). A few "air" bubbles to begin with is not a concern but a gasket leak can give a regular outpour of bubbles.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    The battery was approx a year old but had to be replaces because it went dead and it was -33 and froze, prior to that happening the battery was fine. Do you know if there is a shrader valve on the fuel rail.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi i have one more question i replaced the thermostat today and i noticed that there was coolant leaking from the casing before i actually replaced it. Now my question would be when i start the car with the radiator cap off the water does not get sucked down. It actually shoots up real quick then just goes back to the original resting place. Also after driving the guage once again started shooting up towards the H, but was easier to regulate with the heater.What could this be?
    Thanks again stressed :sick: out kia owner
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    It actually shoots up real quick then just goes back to the original resting place

    I'm afraid it generates a gaz bubble taht escapes at start up then additional gaz can escape without showing bubbles as the level is down. Do that again but once it "goes back to original resting place", keep it running and top off to the rim with coolant to see if gas bubbles escape.

    DO you have coolant left in the reserve tank?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Do you know if there is a shrader valve on the fuel rail
    YOur question tells you know what is involved....I have NOT ckecked myself...just assumed there is one like my other car....I will try to locate it :confuse: and return....
    read this
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i have another quick question there are not really bubbles coming out but it looks like there is something coming to the top. And i actually only have alittel coolant in the reserve tank. Would a blown head gasket cause the ater not to circulate threw the engine? I am just getting really frustrated with this car as i have never had so many problems with a car. It seems as it is one thing after another.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    No bubbles is a good sign...and while a few isolate cases were reported, this engine type really does not have a bad history of blown gasket .

    I understand you have changed the thermostat....
    ANd yes, exhaust invasion will impair coolant circulation but I'm still not committed to that explanation without further signs. WHen you use the heater DO you have a steady heat flow coming from the heater or are there times at which no heat comes??
    Apart from hte needle that goes up, are there other signs of overheating? Steaming?

    One test I used to test gasket leak is applying compressed air to spark plug hole, after rotating the engine so the valves to that cylinder are closed. COMpressed air will try to push piston so it must be really at the top . IF there is a leak on one cylinder, the air will go to cooling circuit and bubbleup at the radiator cap.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi yes i actually have steady heat i have never noticed a time when it gets cold at all. And it has never steamed or overheated just the guage goes up. But there is no circulation of the fluids. that is what confuses me.

    Now by compressed air do you mean canned air or the air i would use to blo up a tirer on the car?
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i also had another question about the lights in my car i noticed tonight that half of my dash lights (the side where the fuel gauge and temp guage are) and the radio buttons will go off and come back on once in a blue moon. Would this be caused by a bad ground? and if so do you have a wiring diagram for the vehicle? cause i would really like to get that fixed as well.. i also encountered the check engine light today while driving when i got the code checked it wwas 90442 something about the fuel cap i made sure it was all the way on and the light is still on any suggestions there?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Your problem with dash lights might be linked with the high temp indicator. IN fact try one thing: run the car, then run the heater blower at different speeds. Does the temp needle change position instantaneously when you switch the blower on? THis problem was reported several times and seems to be linked with ground problems. SO several have run new ground wires from the battery negative to engine block, firewall, and any visible ground wire. HOwever no one had the clever idea to come back and declare unambiguously if that solved their problem partly or completely or what else they might have done.
    FOr diagrams, I can post some but better register yourself to www.kiatechinfo.com and grab everything you want first hand, diagrams, repair manuals, codes....
    ANd I talked of compressed air as you use for tires but the more you say, the less I think you might have a gasket problem....and since you say heater works well, I have no doubts you do have water circulation which is rather difficult to observe from the radiator cap.
    HOw does the fan behave, specially just after engine is started: normally it runs with a whooshing noise for a few seconds then slowly clutches down...
    It might turn out all you have is a false temperature indication....and I wish this is the case....I'd try to use your kitchen candy thermometer in the radiator to have a 2nd temperature opinion....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Haha so i decided to just drive the car with the heat off until the temp guage went to the top (i also filled up the reseviour) and when i pulled in the drive way it was spewing out the over fill hose and what sounded like it was boiling.. I also added one wire from the negative battery terminal to the frame. and i noticed that both the pos and neg connectors where cracked. I also think whoever put the new battery in put in the wrong size as it was actually pretty tough getting the cables off of it.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Well that sounds more severe indeed.....you cannot fake boiling...ha!
    I'd find an air compressor and test as I said. It is just so annoying the plugs are out of easy reach...but it is not such a tedious job anyway. You will have to remove the valve cover.

    engine

    THose complaining of fan clutch failure were mostly living in very warm environment and used A/C ; in cool temperatures, highway speed is sufficient even without a fan...
    Was the water pump changed at same time as timing belt (I think you said the belt had been changed...right). BUt Water pumps fail for bearings generally and that makes noise and leaks, not boiling.....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Yeah actually the only thing i have replaced was the thermostat. And i took another listen once i sent last post and there was a hissing noise and the water was just rushing back into the overfill tank.. Could the water pump be causing this problem possibly?
    And do i have to take all that off just to give it a tune up?? :surprise:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I was questioning the pump , just trying to find a thread where I remember someone said the blades from the water pump had all broken out..but I don't thnk that was in a KIA forum...probably a GM 3.1 or 3.4....so I'd rather dowplay this option.
    WHen you say "take all that off to give it a tune"...I suppose y0u mean the valve cover...hey?...well just to change the spark plugs, no. You would need to remove the intake tube and the plastic cover...and then you have the coils and the holes to the spark plugs..the plugs are hidden under down there and you grab them with a plug socket and an extension to your ratchet... image
    ..and possibly, you could apply air to the plug holes .. it is a long reach....but possible...but you would have some problem seeing which piston is at top dead center without seeing the cam position....
    THe first time I had to do the spark plugs, I thought it was hell to have to do all of that just to reach the plug...and I still think the same...but in fact, a plug change can be done in just a little more than an hour...and with 8 or 9 extra 10mm bolts, the valve cover is out..and then back in. ANnoying, but easy and straight forward.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...but you did not tell me about the fan....you are sure it has a belt driving it? My son had a similar problem with his NIVA..overheating and alternator failure........just to discover the fan belt was simply gone.....and with all those things around there, it needed to peek intentionally to notice something was missing....
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