Have it checked for codes. Could be a bad Governor pressure solenoid or bad torque converter.Talk with the shop the rebuilt the trans!!!! I had this same thing happen before my first tranny died on me.Let me know the outcome!
my 03 ram diesel 4 by 4 no longer engages into 4 WD. indicator light just flashes, fuses all ok ,no lose wires at transfer case....any ideas....thanks in advance for help
i have 05 diesel2500 the when slowing down the tranny or something is rumbling . it feels like it is not down shifting I have 116thousond the truck is doing great up until nowgetting ready 2 change fluid but would like 2 know if any one elsed has this issue.. slso the front end is making a bumping noise the dealer tells me i have 2 repklace the whole steering arm instear of the tie rod ends
I have a dodge 2500 diesel automatic. before i had a problem i could pull my 10,000lb fith wheel up the hill i live on by putting it into 2nd gear. it went up great ! on a trip the trans failed. Dodge rebuilt it. now. going up the same hill it feels like it shifts into 3rd. They say its giong into lockup. either way, it hardly get up the hill. it stays in 2nd better when its in drive than when in 2nd. it also it starts making a howling sound about 3/4 the way up the hill. now the dealer says its acting normal. thats even after i took the trany guy for a ride. the trany slipped and the light came on while he was driving . but later after talked to Dodge he says its working properly. any advice?
first off for a living I build the 45rfe, 545rfe, and 68rfe's for a living, the reason it keeps going out of over drive is because when the transmission senses od it drops line pressure, when it does this the frictions and steels are allowed to slip under load, this causes it to either A: shift out of od, or B: melt the transmissions internals and lock the entire trans up never to be salvaged, hope this helps. --A
This has probably been discussed, but there is one way I've found to correct faulty 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Remove the pan and the shift solenoid. Look at the end that is inserted into the valve body: there are 2 screens that wrap around the end of the solenoid, and I believe they filter the ingoing and out going fluid. The screen closer to the solenoid itself filters the outgoing fluid and the farther screen filters the incoming. The farther screen (incoming fluid) may be blocked with debris. I cleaned this debris with careful use of spray brake cleaner, and reinstalled the solenoid. It works great - for me!
you did a lot of things right. but if u you drop the pan and remove the gov solonoid it will most likey have the screen part or over half plugged with debris. no need to replace but rather just clean with brake clean and blow dry. now that will be the bulk of shift problems. the problem is why is it plugged? most likely it is torque convertor clutch material (assuming rebuild is good). In your description nothing was said about mileage. i'm going to assume over 130k in which case the valvebody is worn. Valvebody will have pressure and lock up issues. An aftermarket shift kit will correct. I like the Sure Cure by Sonnax. I've used others that work ok to. Be absoulutely sure no kinks(none)in cooler lines, the bigger the cooler the better! got a kink? replace line.
99 dodge ram sport 1500 2wd automatic, having shifting problems between 2nd and 3rd gear after truck drives for about 10 minutes. Rear speed sensor is new. found band particles in tranny fluid (my mechanic friend tells me but fluid is clean otherwise)wut is the cause and solution...really dont want to spend 1700 on a new transmission already changed out so much stuff cant afford anymore...replaced rear diff recently brake light is on, gov press test showed way under target when driving....please help! 95,000 miles
I have a 2002 2500 quad cab. With normal driving trans. acts like it is slipping rpms will jump a bit and come right back down. It does this in od or 3rd. When I hit a bump it gets worse. Any one have any thoughts?
I have a question? What happened when you realized you had a problem? Right now when I am riding down the road all of the sudden the tach drops to zero and the transmission seems like it drops to overdrive without it being on or the engine just coasts down until the tach starts working again. The problem is intermittent and does not happen all the time but does happen often. Is this the same problem you had?? I took it to the dealer but because it is an intermittent thing he had no clue. Help!
The 45REF or 545RFE is not used behind any engine except the 4.7 and 5.7 Hemi motors. His 2001 Ram with the 360 motor used a 46RE or 47RE, which are significantly different transmissions.
I have 96 DODGE RAM 1500 and it shifts fine in all gears when im in 4th gear then it feels like the transmission wants to slip.....also ive noticed when stopped either in gear or not i get the occasional fluctuation while the engine is running
I have a 01 dodge 4x4 w/5.9L V8. After several miles, the trans jumps in & out of overdrive. Tp sensor, tv cable & fluid & filter have been replaced. Also, battery posts & grounds in engine bay cleaned, but still experiencing the above condition. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Dodge trannys go out of overdrive when the over heat. Go back and read the HUNDREDS of post concerning removal of the rubber check valve balls in the cooling lines. bobwinner
I have had the same problem since truck was new. 1999 2500 V10. Tach will rev up/down like trans is slipping whether in/out of overdrive. Trans also shifts up/down without reason load or no load. Both issues more apparent while towing. Dodge service has always maintained that this is normal and caused by lock out torque converter. It's annoying but I've never been stranded.
i have a 98 2500 ram 4X4 Auto trans it will drive fine shift through gears then act like i went into neutral shut it off for a while start it back up and it will go drive for a couple feet then do the same thing i've been told its probably the torque converter. anyone else have any idea? thanks
I have a 96 dodge ram 1500 sport auto trans with a 360. I bought this truck with transmission issue. Person before my been having this same issue and the electrical stuff has been replaced. You can all of a sudden drive the truck just fine then all of a sudden none of the gears work at all. After hours of playing with the 4x4 and the trans I got drive to kick in and reverse once, but just drive works fine so far again. I could put tons of load on it and doesnt slip. It couldnt be the torque converter could it? I mean if it was that then all gears wouldnt work at all. When I put it in gear before drive started working, it had a clunking kind of noise that wasnt very loud but if you took it out of gear then it would go away. I can rev up the motor very high in gear and nothing at all. I kind of notice that if I do high rev in gear like drive or reverse if it BARLEY move that direction. please let me know what you think. I cant think of anything else that I can notice with issue. No lights on the dash at all. I did read someone said when their tanks hits almost empty they have the exact issue I do, and my tank is almost on empty.
NOTE: When I got it to go into drive, it went clunkity clunk cluck clunk and GRAB and stayed there. When putting into reverse you can feel the truck hit that gear but not gripsion to it. There is a slight whine to it like someone spinning.
I bought this truck used from a National Dealer on 6/10 with 46000 miles and it now has 57000 miles. I have been having problems from time to time with my truck stalling after it has sat for a period of time. I back up and place it in drive and then it stalls but it starts right back up and then no problem. Sometimies it acts sluggish just after placing the truck in D and then it finally kicks in. This past Saturday 6/4/11 the engine light came on so I had the code read and it comes up as P0700 and P0841.
Transmission fluid looks normal and fresh. Fluid level is full.
In my search for the problem I came across a Dodge TSB that says the transmission return filter is the possible problem that would cause this condition.
Based on these codes I had a transmission shop owner tell me that in order to fix this I will have to replace the Solenoid Pack, Governor pressure switch and while it is open replace the filters.
Any help would be appreciated. As far as parts go do you have to use Dodge parts to make the repairs?
if you remove the overdrive unit not the tranny and take the clutches out of it and the main shaft what has happend inside that drum is an overriding clutch bearing" sprag bearing" if you have a new bearing installed with new planatery in the overdrive unit and put it back together and put it on you wont have any more trouble i've been there before i know and other ?'s hit me up
I had a 1993 Dodge Dakota with the 318 and A518 trans and even though it is not the RAM 2500, much of what I am about to say does apply. The 46RE is pretty much the same as the A518 (which is an A727 ) except with electronic controls in the valve body.
1. Use Chrysler ATF+4 fluid. There are some synthetic versions out there and they are better than the Chrysler fluid you get at the dealer.
2. Get a trans cooler even if you do not tow.
3. Transgo makes a Shift Correction Kit for this trans. It remedies several lubrication issues, and firms up the shift depending on how you set it up. A big lubrication issue it remedies is that it sends much more fluid to the overdrive unit.
Help! This problem just started out of nowhere. 2001 Ram 2500 Shifts late from 1-2 2-3 tach goes to 4000 before shifting. Worse going uphill. Also downshifts sooner than normal. No slippage just high RPMS 115000 miles on truck. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated Thanks
I had a similar problem of high rpm shifting and sometimes it wouldn't shift. I finally had it looked at and then fixed it myself. there are 3 sensors and valves you replace inside the transmission pan.. speed sensor , shift sensor and a third one. VERY EASY JOB... if you can change your Transmission oil yourself, you can fix this yourself. the parts all replace with the removal of 3 allen head screws right there in front of you when the pan is off.
The key is to try and get the parts for about $100. They were listed at $270. The parts are small and dont seem like they should be that expensive. look up the parts online. I got mine looked at for $30 and they were pretty good but did get a few items wrong. My service repair estimate was $570. Like i said. if you can remove that trans pan, you can change your oil and filter, and replace the sensors easily.
in my case the sensors were not the problem there is a small piece of metal that holds the metal bands together and helps with the shifting it keeps falling out there is an adjustment screw to give it a tighter fit no money involved in this fix thankgod cause we had already bought the sensors and replaced them and it was still doing it
you have to drop the valve body under it you will see the bands it is suppose to be on one side of the band holding it in place we found mine in the pan with the tranny fluid lol
My trans shop owner buddy reset the codes and they have not come back. I did read that you may have to replace both transfilters. You have to drop the pan. There is a TSB for this problem. The one filter allows fluid to drain out of your torque converter so when you start it after it has been sitting awhile the fluid has drained back into the pan and the computer sees it as a fault and throws the codes.
I'm not sure what the problem was because I didn't see the original post, but one point of clarification.
You have a 545RFE transmission. Yes, they have two internal filters. One is a conventional pick up filter (input side of the pump).
The other, smaller filter that looks like a miniature spin-on oil filter is the Return Line filter and is on the output side of the pump. Its job is to keep contaminants from returning to the transmission pan. This filter cannot be a cause of torque converter draining.
On its previous transmissions, Chrysler installed a check valve in the cooling lines to prevent cool-down torque converter draining, a problem identified in the late 1980s. On the 545RFE they moved the check valve to inside the transmission and eliminated it from the cooling lines.
This is a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 140,000 miles (i am not transmission/vehicle savy...if the check engine light is on and my gas guage isnt on E...i dont know how to fix the problem.) I drive the vehicle for 30 minutes and the the Overdrive turns "off" and starts shifting HARD...sometimes the "trans temp" warning light comes on but shortly goes away. The overdrive light stays on until i turn the truck off or do some in town driving around (25-30mph)but still shifts hard i cant hit the O/D button to turn it back on so the O/D light will go away.
I have had the transmission replaced (90 day warranty is already up :-( ) and spent too much money trying to fix a problem that still isn't fixed...
i also notice whenever i am in cruise control mode (aprox 60 - 75) the rpm fluctuate 1000RPM like a small heartbeat.
I am unable to use this vehicle to drive home on leave because of this problem.
Can anyone assist me with some advise. It would be greatly appreciated
I have 2006 Dually 3500 5.9l I-6 w/ auto trans. When i am stopped at a light i need to apply extra brake pressure as the truck wants to go forward. As i release the brake ( no trottle applied the truck revs for a second and then seems to be normal. Same thing happens when i am stopped in drive, 2nd, 1st, or rev. When i shift from any gear to neutral ( while stopped) the truck revs increas to about 1800 rpm for a second then returns to normal rpm. I AM TOLD TO REPLACE THE TOURK CONVERTER AND VALVE BODY, sounds to me to be the converter solenoid. Does anyone know the real solution?
The 46RE transmission has a sensor that monitors the fluid temperature. If there is an over heat condition present the torque converter will not lock and you will not have overdrive (4th gear).
Potential defects:
*The transmission could be overheating due to poor or restricted fluid flow. Clogged filter. Sticking or stuck anti-drainback valve in the return line. A good shop will flush or replace the cooling lines and the transmission cooler that's internal to the radiator after a rebuild. Many shops will replace the anti-drainback valve on Chryslers as preventative maintenance.
*Transmission Throttle Valve out of adjustment or sticking. Return spring missing.
*Intermitent O/D Switch, intermitent O/D Switch circuit problem, or an open O/D fuse.
*The transmission temperature sensor or its related circuit could be malfunctioning.
*The engine coolant sensor is defective or the engine is overheating.
*The Distance Sensor is defective.
*Low hydraulic pressure (fluid flow issue or weak pump).
* Overdrive Solenoid malfunction.
*Worn or inoperative Overdrive Clutch.
*Valve Body malfunction. Clogged Solenoid Feed Orifice, stuck or sticking solenoid, Overdrive Piston malfunction.
That's a list of the usual and most likely things.
Hello, I have a 99 dodge 2500, original owner, The transmission seems to have failed. If I turn the vehicle off and restart the vehicle, The transmission will engage and I will be able to drive it for about 5 minutes at about 15 mph. Then the tranny will slip and not engage. Does anybody know what this problem is, Do I need a new transmission, The vehicle has 170,000. Im not a transmission guy and knew very little about transmissions, Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
don't give up. It could be needing the three valve/solenoids in the oil pan. easy to replace when changing the oil. just need the parts and an allen wrench.
but first. tranny's usually slip when the tranny is hot not cold. so it should be slipping all the time once warmed up if the tranny is totally bad.
look to get more info as quick as possible. the oil change is easy, the 3 valve/solenoids are expensive, like $150 to buy them. so i don't recommend just trying it.
I fixed mine, but I still paid for a tranny shop to run the codes and diagnose it. money well spent. even though they were not fully correct in their diagnosis. The shop also wanted over $500 to fix the valves and change the oil. what a rip.
98 1500 4x4, 5.9, 46re. Trans is as of today freshly rebuilt. Still only have 1st and reverse. Throttle cable is good and actuates smoothly. Replaced speed sensor, no change. When in D, if I back off the throttle it acts like it's going to shift but never makes it to 2nd. Put it in 1 and it holds the gear like it should. Running low on ideas and cash. Help?
i seem to be having the same problem, a couple of weeks ago i noticed a wirring sound when i would reverse in garage , then a week ago noticed slight wirring when in traffic thought it was a/c pump then lost drive when cold can move truck and then slips to no drive have to turn off and on to drive , obviously not using truck at the moment. mine is a 2003 5.9 2wd with 140000 miles i was thinking of flushing lines and changing filters should have done a few weeks ago any other advice would be appreciated
Here's a little more information: I pulled the trans relay to force it into limp mode. It went into limp (3rd only) for a minute, but when I stopped and took off again it forced itself right back into first
What else can I do here? I'm about to just send this truck to the junker
I have a 97 Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. I started it up in the morning and the transmission started making whirring noises only when I put it in gear, and not neutral. All gears make the sound. At first, I could rev it up to about 3000 RPMs to get it to roll a few feet. Now it won't move at all.
Before this happened, it had slipped a few times on me in 1st gear only, but not excessively. Maybe once every few months when taking off from a light. It does have 183,000 miles on it; so I just figured the clutches in the tranny are starting to wear out. But then it just died. I'm trying to figure out if maybe it is just the torque converter that needs to be replaced to get it moving again, or if the pump or some other portion of the tranny has gone out and it needs to be rebuilt.
I have a 2004 quad cab and I am experiencing the exact same problems. I also have experienced the higher RPMs in the lower gears as well. Unfortunatlly anytime I take it to get looked at they cant recreate the problem. I've got about 900 miles left on my warranty and I dont know what do. Any comments would be appreciated>
I swear this is going to be the end of me! I plugged the 8 pin connector back in and it shifted through the whole range. I shut the truck off and tried again, and it still worked. Thought it was all good! This morning I start taking it to work to test again and not three blocks later, the 4 stops and starts, and it's stuck in first again! Does this sound like PCM? Or governor solenoid? Or what? I'm at my wit's end here.
I have a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Last night I got it stuck while 4 wheeling , the tranny was submerged for over an hour. After getting it pulled out and letting it sit for a while, I got it started and noticed there was tranny fluid spraying out of a hole at the bottom of the bell housing. My question is: is there supposed to be a rubber plug in that hole? The hole is not threaded and is just a little smaller than my pinkie finger. I cannot find any photos on the net showing that area. Further more, tell me if I'm right about why it was spraying out..... I think the housing filled with water and mixed into the fluid inside the torque converter and was over full. I do plan on flushing the entire tranny and changing the filter.
Comments
--A
Dusty
Dusty
NOTE: When I got it to go into drive, it went clunkity clunk cluck clunk and GRAB and stayed there. When putting into reverse you can feel the truck hit that gear but not gripsion to it. There is a slight whine to it like someone spinning.
Transmission fluid looks normal and fresh. Fluid level is full.
In my search for the problem I came across a Dodge TSB that says the transmission return filter is the possible problem that would cause this condition.
Based on these codes I had a transmission shop owner tell me that in order to fix this I will have to replace the Solenoid Pack, Governor pressure switch and while it is open replace the filters.
Any help would be appreciated. As far as parts go do you have to use Dodge parts to make the repairs?
JD
1. Use Chrysler ATF+4 fluid. There are some synthetic versions out there and they are better than the Chrysler fluid you get at the dealer.
2. Get a trans cooler even if you do not tow.
3. Transgo makes a Shift Correction Kit for this trans. It remedies several lubrication issues, and firms up the shift depending on how you set it up. A big lubrication issue it remedies is that it sends much more fluid to the overdrive unit.
The key is to try and get the parts for about $100. They were listed at $270. The parts are small and dont seem like they should be that expensive. look up the parts online. I got mine looked at for $30 and they were pretty good but did get a few items wrong. My service repair estimate was $570. Like i said. if you can remove that trans pan, you can change your oil and filter, and replace the sensors easily.
Also, what is the valve body? Are there any small parts on the valve body I have to worry about losing when pulling it down?
Thank you for your answers.
You have a 545RFE transmission. Yes, they have two internal filters. One is a conventional pick up filter (input side of the pump).
The other, smaller filter that looks like a miniature spin-on oil filter is the Return Line filter and is on the output side of the pump. Its job is to keep contaminants from returning to the transmission pan. This filter cannot be a cause of torque converter draining.
On its previous transmissions, Chrysler installed a check valve in the cooling lines to prevent cool-down torque converter draining, a problem identified in the late 1980s. On the 545RFE they moved the check valve to inside the transmission and eliminated it from the cooling lines.
Dusty
(i am not transmission/vehicle savy...if the check engine light is on and my gas guage isnt on E...i dont know how to fix the problem.)
I drive the vehicle for 30 minutes and the the Overdrive turns "off" and starts shifting HARD...sometimes the "trans temp" warning light comes on but shortly goes away. The overdrive light stays on until i turn the truck off or do some in town driving around (25-30mph)but still shifts hard i cant hit the O/D button to turn it back on so the O/D light will go away.
I have had the transmission replaced (90 day warranty is already up :-( ) and spent too much money trying to fix a problem that still isn't fixed...
i also notice whenever i am in cruise control mode (aprox 60 - 75) the rpm fluctuate 1000RPM like a small heartbeat.
I am unable to use this vehicle to drive home on leave because of this problem.
Can anyone assist me with some advise. It would be greatly appreciated
Are you the original owner?
What engine is in this truck?
Was the transmission replaced for the problem you're having now?
Regards,
Dusty
the engine is i wanna say 5.2L v8
the transmission was replaced because it wouldnt shift out of 1st gear at all.
Does anyone know the real solution?
Potential defects:
*The transmission could be overheating due to poor or restricted fluid flow. Clogged filter. Sticking or stuck anti-drainback valve in the return line. A good shop will flush or replace the cooling lines and the transmission cooler that's internal to the radiator after a rebuild. Many shops will replace the anti-drainback valve on Chryslers as preventative maintenance.
*Transmission Throttle Valve out of adjustment or sticking. Return spring missing.
*Intermitent O/D Switch, intermitent O/D Switch circuit problem, or an open O/D fuse.
*The transmission temperature sensor or its related circuit could be malfunctioning.
*The engine coolant sensor is defective or the engine is overheating.
*The Distance Sensor is defective.
*Low hydraulic pressure (fluid flow issue or weak pump).
* Overdrive Solenoid malfunction.
*Worn or inoperative Overdrive Clutch.
*Valve Body malfunction. Clogged Solenoid Feed Orifice, stuck or sticking solenoid, Overdrive Piston malfunction.
That's a list of the usual and most likely things.
Good luck,
Dusty
but first. tranny's usually slip when the tranny is hot not cold. so it should be slipping all the time once warmed up if the tranny is totally bad.
look to get more info as quick as possible. the oil change is easy, the 3 valve/solenoids are expensive, like $150 to buy them. so i don't recommend just trying it.
I fixed mine, but I still paid for a tranny shop to run the codes and diagnose it. money well spent. even though they were not fully correct in their diagnosis. The shop also wanted over $500 to fix the valves and change the oil. what a rip.
What else can I do here? I'm about to just send this truck to the junker
Before this happened, it had slipped a few times on me in 1st gear only, but not excessively. Maybe once every few months when taking off from a light. It does have 183,000 miles on it; so I just figured the clutches in the tranny are starting to wear out. But then it just died. I'm trying to figure out if maybe it is just the torque converter that needs to be replaced to get it moving again, or if the pump or some other portion of the tranny has gone out and it needs to be rebuilt.
My question is: is there supposed to be a rubber plug in that hole? The hole is not threaded and is just a little smaller than my pinkie finger. I cannot find any photos on the net showing that area.
Further more, tell me if I'm right about why it was spraying out..... I think the housing filled with water and mixed into the fluid inside the torque converter and was over full.
I do plan on flushing the entire tranny and changing the filter.
Thanks in advance for your help.