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Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Problems

135

Comments

  • The error code that probably displayed was P0320 (you can call your mechanic and see if he remembers). It is a completely generic code and all that means is that when the cam or crank (for the valves/pistons in the engine repectively) stop in an untimely fashion (i.e from stalling) and not from turning off the key (like it is supposed to work), then those sensors will send an error message to the computer stating that those sensors "faulted". To replace a $100 part because of a "faulty sensor" should, in my opinion, be a major recall by Jeep since you, me and thousands of other people have had this problem. But perhaps you're right and the sensor failed and I got lucky with just cleaning out the throttle body. Since this has been such a big problem for so many people, it is my opinion that Jeep should be held responsible for all of the repairs, whether in the end they were needed or not (i.e. recall).
  • I agree. I am still amazed at the numbers of us who endured. And you are right about the generic code. The first time this happened I took it to the dealer and after paying $80 to connect to the computer a "P" code came up. Can't remember the #s. This time with the hand held it actually said crank sensor on the screen. I think we should complain to Jeep about this because our Jeep only had about 30000 miles on it when we first had the problem.
  • I have the same problems as everyone else but i have just the one code p0340 and my oil light comes on as well. does anyone elses oil light come on?
  • Can someone please tell me HOW TO clean the throttle body. I am a beginner and have no idea where anything is. Thanks in advance!
  • jeep liberty 2002 limited
    Usually starts fine when left sitting for a while. If restarted after a short trip, it is more difficult to start. More short trips lead to more difficultly starting. Eventually I start it with the gas petal down and white smoke out the exaust. Last night it didn't start then 30 min later started with no problem. Just did an oil change. Didn't replace fuel filter. Haven't checked battery. Any ideas?
  • eammeamm Posts: 3
    I've had the same sort of problem. Every once in a while , regardless if driven everyday or periodically, my Liberty CRD goes into "limp mode". Sometime the engine will just die. The only error code is P0093, which is a "major fuel leak". The thing is, I see no leaks anywhere. My suspicion is that the fuel filter is clogged, but wanted to first see if anyone else had this issue. I have had the fuel line apart, but have always purged the air out very well. Further, I have never had a problem starting or running the car immediately after having the fuel line apart.

    Interestingly, if the problem occurs, I can resolve by turning off the engine and restarting. I have tried primimg the pump on the filter housing with engine running when the problem occurrs, but it does not resolve the issue.
  • Finally my husband fixed the problem. We got some info from a member of this forum. He replaced the speed control sensor which he said screws into the passenger side of the engine block. It senses the speed of the engine from a small magnet imbedded in a fly wheel gear. The part was ordered by our mechanic from NAPA auto parts and cost about $25. Have not had a problem since he replaced that part last sept. or oct. Good Luck. Hope this helps anyone else having the same problem.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Thanks for the update - good to hear that it's cured your problem.
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    My 2003 Jeep stalled out several times at stop signs and slow speeds. I replaced a sensor and it worked fine for about a year when it shut off again this time on the HIGHWAY. The RPM dial goes crazy, the steering wheel locks, and it totally dies. Of course, this is a HUGE safety issue. I had the crank sensor replaced after this episode and it worked fine for only 2 weeks, when it again stalled (at about 40 MPH on a city road) and had tons of smoke coming from the exhaust. How is this not a recall? Any suggestions on how to fix it? At this point I would love to sell it and get a different car....none of this was under warranty either.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    How is this not a recall?

    It would be a recall only if there were some real defect. Parts wear out, vehicles need maintenance and some mechanics misdiagnose problems but those are hardly reasons for a recall. I think it's best to find out exactly what the problem is before making an indictment.

    Perhaps some of the experts would jump in and offer some guidance. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    from the NHTSA website:

    NHTSA is authorized to order manufacturers to recall and repair vehicles or items of motor vehicle equipment when ODI investigations indicate that they contain serious safety defects in their design, construction, or performance. ODI also monitors the adequacy of manufacturers' recall campaigns. Before initiating an investigation, ODI carefully reviews the body of consumer complaints and other available data to determine whether a defect trend may exist.

    so in other words, a breakdown of one car one time, or even one car multiple times, doesn't mean that all or most of that make model have a provable design defect.

    BTW, the automaker may also voluntarily issue a recall.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Thanks, Shifty! That's helpful.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    The issue is not if it should be a recall or not, regardless it is a huge safety issue. Its now been in the shop 3 days and they cannot figure out what caused this problem. They investigated all the codes and reset them and drove the car to see if it will stall and it runs fine now. I just have to drive it until it stalls again...hopefully not on the highway again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Intermittent problems are the devil, because you often can't fix it until it happens, but when it happens there's no one around to fix it.

    it could also be that their scanning equipment isn't sophisticated enough---not all are created equal. Or it could be a computer glitch, which is a real pain to track down.

    No easy answers with an intermittent problem, sometimes you just have to take your best guess or find someone with the patience of a saint and the genius of Sherlock Holmes to track it down inch by inch, component by component, testing each one for proper values---which isn't cheap.

    I spent 6 months off and on on a Jeep once before I found the problem.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    If you make a proper check list in agreement with a technical expert and each time a problem occurs you write down all conditions you observed, then you can pretend to become Dr Watson's assistant. The cause of the symptom may not be on your list, but the human brain has hidden resources :shades:
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the input, I really do appreciate it! I am at the point where its time to decide whether to cut my losses or keep pursuing the truth of the problem with the car. I bought it used less than 2 years ago and with no warranty so there was the first clue that my brain was lacking. I am sure people run into similar issues with other types of cars but found it odd when my current mechanic said he has a Jeep Cherokee in the shop with the same exact problem and codes. I guess they found the source of that cars problem but it isn't something that needs to be fixed on my car. Anyway, if I ever find out what the final solution is I will post it.
  • eammeamm Posts: 3
    It turns out my problem was simply a plugged fuel filter. Since it was an intermitten problem, it made it harder to diagnose. Not sure it relates to anyone else's issue, but it is simple to check or just simply replace the filter.

    To check for a plugged filter, hook a vacuum gauge up to the fuel line coimg out of the filter (between filter and fuel pump). If the vacuum reads over 10 in Hg, then the filter is plugged. I found the the vacuum is nearly zero with the new filter. It also pulses a bit in sequence with the fuel pump (a good thing).
  • just wanted to say thanks man i had the same prob with mine and changed the crank and cam shaft and got the throttle body cleaned and so far it works alot better. i had it fixed at a dealership by request and they said that the odb thing was still saying stuff was wrong with it after they put it those sensors but the malfunction light went off the day after. before i took it in i had codes p 0320, p0174, and p0700 which i got from inside the jeep by turning the key from off to run(not start) three times and then leaving it on run.(it showed on the odometer). mine is a 2003 jeep liberty limited.
  • I have a similar problem. When you turn the key everything as usual, but car just wont start. Light that are supposed to go on, go on, no weird sounds, battery working. Just not starting. In detail ...

    A few weeks ago the car just didn't start. I thought it was the classic battery problem, but radio, A/C and all lights worked. It just didn't do anything when I turned the key to start. Since AAA couldn't get the car started, we towed it to a mechanic. They called me the next day, asking what to do with the car, since it started right away. :confuse:

    So nothing was done and all was fine for a few days, then the same problem again. But this time I just waited a few hours and the car started again. I did notice, it seems to have something to do with the unlocking of the car. Everytime it wouldn't start, I had the car unlocked for several hours. So I figured it's a problem with the alarm (which was installed by one of the pre-owners) and disabled the alarm.

    All worked well for 2 weeks now, untill this morning. I had to grab something out of the car yesterday evening and forgot to unlock it again, this morning the car won't start again. I locked it again and try to find the 'time' I have to wait now until it will start again. I hope this is even the right idea I am having .... I ll keep you updated if it starts again in a few hours ...

    anyone else had a problem like this?
  • Update:

    As I thought, the car started again in the evening. I think I waited at least 5 hours, car running smooth as if nothing ever happened. I think I need to go to a dealership now, but I wonder what it can be after I disabled my alarm.
    Anything from JEEP, that secures the car if you leave it unlocked too long?
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I once had a similar problem with a set of ignition points & condenser on a FIAT. We are allowed to mention the word "FIAT" now ;)
    The wire connecting the ignition coil to the distributor was oily and not tightly crimped inside it's connector (the wire providing contact to the points).

    I was able to find what was causing the problem by manipulating the wire harness while the engine was running because this stopped the engine every time. In your case I think the same approach could be applied.
  • smoothndsmoothnd Posts: 1
    When trying to start my 2002 Jeep Liberty, it stalls about 2 seconds after turning over. I can rev the engine to 3000 rpm's but it still dies after the 2 seconds.

    Approximately 3 seconds after the car dies, the light for the wrong key illuminates. However, I have tried to start it with both original keys, so I do not believe it is the key recognition system.

    The check engine light is also illuminated, but it has been illuminated for about a year with no problems. When the check engine light first illuminated, we had a mechanic take a look, and he found no problems.

    Has anyone encountered a similar problem?
  • There are positioning sensors that align the camshaft and crankshaft magnetly. If some substance as grime or grease & oil durty up this sensor the auto or aircraft will srart and then stop until the sensor is cleaned or until replaced. I had this happon on a Buick and a Hellercopter.jdh;-) :cry:
  • I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty Renigade and about a month ago it died while I was driving it, I took it into the dealership, they replaced my radiator and my cam shaft position sensor under warranty it cost me $150. The day after I got it back it died again. So they towed it back and returned it saying they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They said that the check engine light was reading something wrong with the transmission but since they could not get it to duplicate the problem they weren't going to fix that. Then last night it died again. Each time it dies I am only 2-3 miles away from home and going no more than 40 miles per hour. Some times it will start back up and sometimes it takes overnight before it will. The dealership has it again. My lawyer says that they have four chances to fix it then they get hit with lemon law.

    I think Jeep needs to know everyone is having the same problem, also I am going to contact consumer advocacy groups for help. This is nonsense that everyone is having the same problem. I have two small children that should not be subjected to endangerment due to an unsafe car that dies without notice. Id like to take my family on a summer vacation but am too scared to drive very far away. That's sad.

    I owe $10k on the car still, anyone have suggestions? Trade-in value is only around $6500. I don't want to sell it privately cause I would not sell this vehicle to someone else to have them go through what I've gone through. :cry:
  • slyt1slyt1 Posts: 5
    Hi, I'm sorry to hear about your issues, it sounds a lot like the problems I had with my 2003 Jeep Liberty. Mine actually stalled on the highway at over 60 MPH a couple times so its a HUGE safety issue! I wound up having the Cam and Crank sensors replaced. It stopped stalling after the last install but the check engine light still came on, the codes referred to leaks that are normally associated with a bad gas cap. I changed the gas cap and the car has been fine ever since. I would check that one just to see if it helps. I would still love to get rid of my car too, though, because I am worried every time I get behind the wheel that its going to stall. I thought lemon laws only applied to newer cars?
  • So, my boyfriend and I went 4 wheeling in tall grass in his 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lardeo 4.0, I know, NOT a good idea. The next morning we left to drive about four hours and forgot to check the undercarriage, REALLY not a good idea. We were about 2 hrs in and the transmission started slipping on the highway at about 70 mph. We stopped for gas, it started up fine, and on we went. Transmission was acting up over 70, but seemed fine at 65. He told me to pull off so we could check the fluid, I exited, turned left, and the Jeep died at about 45 mph. Just shut down, no gauges working at all. Cranked but would not turn over, but you can hear the fuel pump come on. We looked under and found grass around the drive shaft that had ripped out the downstream O2 sensor. Of course it was late, no parts stores were open, and we left the repair manual at home... He tried to stick the wires back in the sensor but that didn't work. We got towed home, replaced the sensor, and nothing changed. Checked for fire at spark plug, nothing. We tried to get the check engine light to flash the codes manually, and that didn't work either. No check engine light at all. We went to checking sensors with the volt meter, trying to make the check engine light come on. Nada. Very low (about half of normal) readings on major sensors. We had it towed to a shop, they said it was reading crazy and must be the PCM. We have tried two different ones programmed for the vehicle and they didn't change a thing... Still cranks, no start, no gauges, any ideas? Thanks so much!
  • I guess, Lemon Law also applies to when the service department has had 4 chances to fix your vehicle but they don't do it correctly. I have a warranty on the vehicle - maybe that's why lemon law applies. I'm not sure. Thanks for the advice. My car is still in the shop I'll keep you posted as to what they decided to fix. Feel bad for the dealership if this is a JEEP issue that should be a recall.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    The accident may have yanked really hard on the wiring harness.
  • My '03 Jeep Liberty Renegade ran great as usual this am - but I let my hubby drive it today...he filled up and now black smoke, stalling, etc...oil was low - added more - only about 4,000 since last change?...I have 173K on it with no major problems until now...(unless you count mirrors not working, on & off A/C & CD player issues).... any ideas?...bad gas?...he got her home finally and their she sits....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Black smoke is usually a sign of one or more cylinder misfires. I'd read the codes and see which cylinders are misbehaving. These symptoms could be lots of things. Bad gas is rare but it does happen.
  • Hi - the codes say crankshaft sensor is bad?...I'm hoping this is an easy fix...anyone?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Looks like .6 of one hour + the part, so can't be very hard to do.
  • jrlopez14jrlopez14 Posts: 8
    i had to change the sensors on my jeep and it wasnt that hard at all me and my husband did it ourselves.
  • Im driving a Jeep Liberty Sport 2003 manual transmission 4x4, while stopped at a stop sign my Jeep stalled. I started it back up again and the check engine light came on. I was able to drive it to house after buying a can of throttle body cleaner from the hardware store. I exposed the throttle body assembly and ejected the cleaner on to the walls of the throttle body. After doing that for 20 minutes I drove my Jeep around the block a few them. I thought i was done with it, while driving down the road to go to work the next morning, traveling about 60-65mph my tachometer was starting to spike. I quickly pulled over and stopped my vehicle, when I came to a complete stop the car stalled and not only did my check engine light come on but also my check oil light as well. I cleaned my throttle body so I have determined that the problem is not that simple. I'm broke and running out of solutions. If any one has more helpful advice Im all ears. thanks. :mad:
  • Does anybody know what trouble code p0320 ignition/engine is supposed to represent, my car keeps stalling and i have no idea why its reading me that code. Any thoughts/ :confuse:
  • That happend to me..I have the same jeep as you except mine is automatic. We had to change two sensors on the car, that have to do with the mph on your car. At this moment I do not remember what they are called but tomorrow I will look them up and I will reply to you again with which ones I had to change
  • you can always just look it up online to see what the codes mean
  • the sensors I was talking about was the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. And since then my jeep has been fine. Me and my husband changed them ourselfs, they really are not that hard to do.
  • Finally got it to the shop - bad crankshaft & camshaft sensors ....hoping that is it...thought perhaps bad gas because we had just filled up w/the Liberty and a few days later I was using my dad's car, filled up at same station and it blew up too...I guess just weird coincidence...thanks for all the help!
  • Sounds like my scenario exactly...I was about to post:

    "I have 2002 Jeep Liberty (Sport).
    I drove my vehicle home with no problem. I stopped home for about 20 minutes and then went to drive my Jeep again. It wouldn't start.
    - The engine is not turning over.
    - The keyless entry (remote) device doesn't seem to be working, ie will not lock doors, but did open the hatch on one occasion.
    - First, when I turned the key back, nothing happened at 1st and then gradually the odometer display came on and then the radio.
    - As well, at first I could here a continuous "activation" of the lock in the hatch for no reason. It gradually stopped.
    - I turn the key forward and the various lights display. First, as normal, but now the (MIL - malfunction indicator light) blinks for 10 seconds. The battery light is also coming on after initially going off.
    - Again, when I turn the key the whole way to start, no response from the engine.

    What is happening??
    - Fuses?
    - Computer (ODB) problem?
    - Need to boost battery?
    - other?

    Thanks in advance!"

    Anyone else with similar experience?
  • Hello,

    I'm at my wits end. :confuse: Hopefully i can get some advice here.

    Ok I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty v6 3.7l renegade 72000 miles on it. About 1 week ago, It stalled out on me on the freeway doing about 65. i pulled it over and waited about 5 mins and started it again...it started then stalled again about 30yards later. I had it towed. I had a friend of mine come and put his code reader on it and we came to the conclusion that it had something to do with spark. So I began to take off the plugs and coils. I found that 4 of my coils were cracked and one was so bad it was bulging...ok bad plugs and coils..got it. I went and bought all 6 coils and plugs and replaced them. Started it up and it ran for about 10 mins then stalled out again. Now the code read that there was a sensor bad. We couldnt figure out which it was so I had it towed to a mechanic shop. He diagnosed it as the cam and crank sensors and he replaced them for me. He said it still had a small lag on take off but that could be fixed by putting in the correct plugs. Apparently me and my BRILLIANT thought process bought bosch 4-spark plugs (@6bux a pop) and the mechanic suggested regular Champion plugs. so I went and took out a bosch plug and measured it up to a regular champion one. turns out that the champion plug is a little shorter than the ones I put in. so I figured that might be the problem. I raced back to my car and began replacing the plugs. Upon removing the coils, i found that another coil (yes its a new coil) was popped out bulging at the side like the other one was. I attributed this to maybe "bad luck bad part" deal. I went to the parts store and they gave me another new one. I put it in and turned ont he car. It started perfect and ran great!...for the first 10 mins...after that, there was a very small "stutter" in the engine that was intermittent. I didnt think much of it figuring that maybe the engine is just a litle old and may have developed it over time. That was yesterday afternoon. I drove the car across town with my kids and everything in it (thinking my jeep was fixed) and it ran great. Today, i woke up and went to church and ran some errands. the jeep was running fine and still had that minor "stutter" int he idle at the stoplights. but it would take off fine. I didnt think anything of it. I got into a scenario where I had to give it gas so that it would doenshift so I can pass someone. It shifted fine but during the pass, the engine stuttered again. after I [assed, i had t get off the freeway because now the engine was exhibiting signs that it wanted to stall out and die. The check engine light was flashing slowly as I pulled it into the driveway of my parents house (they were closest to where I was at) i had to let it cool down so I left it there and got a ride to my house. My thought is that when it lost power again this time, it felt like it was missing fire on a cylinder which made me think about "what if another coil went bad?" but what are the odds on that? If it is the case, i still need to find out why my coils are going bad? I'm going to have to go and check the coils and plugs (to see what one wasnt firing right). Any suggestions? I bought a main filter for the fuel (for the filter thats on the outside right in front of the gas tank) so i'll be replacing that one.

    need some advice. please let me know.

    thanks guys (and gals) :sick:
  • This same thing happened to me - drove to store - came out - dead!!....try a new battery
  • Cam Shaft and/or Crank Shaft sensores need to be replaced, also as a precation take a can of "trottle body" clearner and douse your throttle body with it. I changed both of my sensors on my liberty and thar car runs like new. Sensores are about $30 bucks each, the "trottle" clearer is only about $10 bucks. Also when you replacing the sensores check the old ones you take out to see if there soaked in oil, That could be the reason your sensores died to begin with. Best of luck.
  • Ok update.

    Got home from work went to where my Jeep was at. Turns out the code was flashing "misfire on cylinder 3" so i swapped the coil of cyl3 with the one on cyl1. I reset the code and let it idle.. sure enough after 5 mins of idle, it registered "misfire on cyl1" So i took one of my old original ignition coils (the onlyone that was in decent condition) and placed it in cyl1. The misfire was not apparent anymore. as it was the misfire was barely noticeable however now it was gone. so my conclusion is that maybe i had 2 bad coils? talk about bad luck. Outman, I saw what you had put in there about the throttlebody cleaner. i'll be doing that once i get paid next (this freakin breakdown sucked me dry just about) im sure that will help with keeping things in shape. I'm going to drive it around a bit and update in about a week (or sooner if theres another issue). Anyone think maybe the pcm is shorting the coils? i guess i'll have to see...if it does, that will be bad coil #3...i must really have super bad luck if thatw as the case! i'll still troll the forum in case anyone has anything else to look out for. I love my jeep...but was contemplating trade in for a 4door truck if it kept breaking on me ;)
  • duggarduggar Posts: 3
    I, as like most in here have had the same problem with the vehicle staling out. I first came to this site this past weekend and did a little research before panicing. After reading 50 or so posts on the internet about this issue, I came to the conclusion that it may not be sensors but fuel line and vacuum issues. I purchased a fuel line additive to clean injectors for $2.99 and a can of gum cutter spray for $2.49. I began the process of cleaning up the fuel system and air intake system, My goal was to get to the intake manifold, Grabbing a flat head screw driver, I began disassembling the air intake apparatus. Still using the flat head screw drive. I loosened the clamps, loosened the plastic securing bolts on the main intake housing and pulled the main collection housing off the intake manifold. Using the gum cutter. I liberally sprayed the intake flapper while holding it open and was amazed at the amount of filth that was there. Upon closer inspection, as I was beginning to reassemble the parts, I noticed several of the vacuum hoses, connected to this unit, were cracked wide open. Further investigation left me with the conclusion that the hoses (rubber tubes) connecting to the main air intake were all cracked which caused unfiltered air to leak into the fuel combustion chamber ( IE:the dirty air intake flapper). The breakdown of these lines evidently lead to moisture being introduced into the fuel chamber causing the vehicle to run rough and stall out. As a quick fix for now . I used black electricians tape and sealed up the cracks in the hose lines. I will need to order all new lines for the vacuum system. After I taped each line, I re-assembled everything, having to remove the overflow tank for the radiator to get the hoses back on (you'll need a number 10 metric wrench for this, it is held by two (2) nuts to the fire wall). I tightened all the connections again with the flat head screw driver (use a long thin headed one). Next I un-hooked the battery cables, cleaned as needed and re-connected them. This reset the computer and the sensors allowing the motor light on the dash to go out. Knock on wood, it has been running without staling for two days now and it seems to have more power than before. My theory is that these cracks in the hose lines were allowing moisture and dirty air to get into the combustion chamber which messed up the fuel richness causing it not to ignite properly and miss fire hence the sensor failure. If I have any further problems I will post but for now everything is back to normal except for replacing the worn our air hoses.
  • xbeanxxbeanx Posts: 4
    thats really good info to know! i'd also like to point out to be careful once an ignotion coil goes out. In talking to several jeep mechanics (after my incident) it turns out that they go out like dominoes..basically if one goes out, the others are soon to follow. they are very testy when it comes to this.. thats what i'm gathering about the coils as well whoci would explain me getting 2 bad coils in the bunch.

    Knock on wood so far my jeep is running fine.. i'll be checking the hoses as you did this weekend.
  • duggarduggar Posts: 3
    Ok my theory has a few issues although the cracked hoses were a problem and it seemed to run better afterwards. It stalled again for my wife last evening and she had the heater on. I again unhooked the battery terminal and reconnected it to reset the computer. Everything was back to normal. Today I turned off the heat control and ran it close to 30 miles and no stalling. My next venture is to go with the heater on to see if it is drawing down on the battery. My battery is over two years old and may be getting week. If this is the case, it may have some affect on those sensors malfunctioning and causing a disruption in the ignition chamber. I'm off for a test drive with the heater on to see what happens.
  • duggarduggar Posts: 3
    Ok finally back from my road test. Had the heater on and boom there it went again. There are a number of things that it could be but have no idea why it stalled only while the heater was on. It has been backfiring. running rough. I left it sit for 15 minutes and it fired right up ran two miles and shut down again. Can't be the battery at this point or it would have been dead an hour ago. It is still cranking. here are possible answers: 1 bad batch of gas 2. fuel filter needs changed. 3 fuel pump is malfunctioning. 4, needs tuned up. Needs to be traded in, I've searched about every place I can think of for an answer. Any suggestion will help at this point. The vehicle is now unreliable.
  • My 2005 Liberty Renegade (manual trans) just started having the same stall/idle issue, same symptoms over the last few days. It's got 61k miles. Day before I'd just finished a 600 mile drive and was using the defrost. I'd left the defrost on when I got out and thought maybe it wore out the battery. Swapped battery and jeep restarted but stalled over and over, especially while turning and braking. It's at the dreaded dealership so I'm seriously following potential solutions and outcomes here. I would really like to hear what happens to your jeep. I absolutely love my jeep and need it back! thanks.
  • A $7 can of throttle body cleaner ought to do it. The Jeep diverts exhaust back through the intake to decrease emissions which clogs up the throttle body with carbon deposits and decreases air flow. Your Jeep probably only stalls @ stop signs and red lights or while slowing down and not on the freeway because it is getting enough air plus has the forward momentum of the engine/transmission. Ours was filthy when we cleaned it. The dealer will tell you that there are all these error codes including "crank" and "camshaft" sensors that they will want to replace for $100's. Try the throttle body cleaner first, $7 is better than a $300 sensor that will just give you the same problem as soon as you drive it out of the service garage, which will just make them keep replacing more.
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