Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Problems



  • jrlopez14jrlopez14 Member Posts: 8
    i had similar problems too but mine wasnt with turns or stops but the codes did tell us that it was the camshaft and crankshaft sensor and we bought then and we did it ourselves its really easy...when we took our sensors off the were rusted on.
  • jar452jar452 Member Posts: 1
    So, I had the same issues: my speedometer was at 0 when going about 70 and the jeep would stall when I was coming to a stop. I just got it back from my mechanic and it's all fixed. Here is the problem: there was no slack in the wire that runs out to the speed sensor at the top of the rear differential. I must've hit a bump that knocked it loose. My mechanic was able to re-route the wires and allow for some slack and the jeep runs like normal now (no stalling and the speedometer works again). If the re-route is not possible, there is a Chrysler repair kit ( part # 05013995aa ) that basically includes some longer wires. Hope this helps!

    (Other things to check: replace the speed sensor itself)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I was told that the rear differential sensor cable must remain out of reach from the hand brake cables. It's one of the hand brake cables that tears the sensor wires.
  • emljeepemljeep Member Posts: 3
    This Error Code points to an "incorrect 3rd gear ratio" and sure enough the transmission will not shift into 3rd gear - How does one diagnos this further ?
    Does this mean an internal issue or just a linkage problem ?
    Thanks in advance.
  • ahorineahorine Member Posts: 1
    I have a strange one...

    My Jeep liberty starts fine, no issues there. If it is cold, it will run just fine. Given 10 min or so the problem begins.

    When i pull up to a stop sign, the RPM drops down to its idle level, then will slowly fade until the engine stalls and shuts off. If I am rolling down the road at any speed and let of the the accelerator and just let it cruise, it works just fine. It is only when the vehicle is not moving. Whether it is in Park, Neutral, or Drive doesn't make a difference. Once the vehicle has been running for 10 min or so, it does this every time.

    I took it to a mechanic and they replaced the "Throttle position sensor." This was a fix for approximately a week. I took it back, they said the sensor was bad and replaced it again for free this time. This fix lasted for about 24 hours.

    Now I am back to the same situation. Anyone got anything to help me? :mad:
  • slyt1slyt1 Member Posts: 5
    My Jeep started out only dying at stop signs then it died in the same way on the highway going 65+! I had the crank sensor replaced and it worked for awhile then died again, then I had my gas cap replaced and I haven't had the problem in over 7 months.
    Hope that helps!
  • nezlonnezlon Member Posts: 3
    94K and never had an issue. This morning without warning the engine began to sputter and run roughly. I limped to my ANG unit where I was reporting to weekend duty. Engine will not allow RPM's to exceed 2,000 whether driving or sitting in neutral. I pulled the following OBD diagnostic codes: P0320, P0725 and P0175. I can drive it but no faster than 40 - 45 MPH. At stop it will idle very roughly and acceleration is poor.

    Any ideas????
  • chapusinchapusin Member Posts: 19
    Sorry to bother all of you but I must tell you the problem I'm having and hopefully somebody can help.

    My jeep liberty 2002, 107k miles is having a hard time starting after hours of no usage, sometimes just enough to cool down the car, say, 3-4 hours. The car tries to start and dies immediately, the only way I can make it work is by accelerating to 3k-4k rpms, hold the pedal down for a few seconds, and then let it go.. sometimes it will stall and turn off and I have to keep trying, and sometimes it will stay at idle, after that, if I drive it and turn it off and on again, it will turn on like nothing ever happened, the mechanic changed the MAF sensor already though the computer is not giving out any codes, to the computer the car has nothing wrong and also I took it to another mechanic and told me there was nothing wrong with the car. I'm very afraid it will stall on the road like it's happening to you guys.
  • 05libertycrd05libertycrd Member Posts: 6
    I've got an 05 Liberty CRD that has stalled three times in the last week--all at the same stoplight. In addition, it frequently has been having a problem maintaining idle RPM when slowing to a stop. Seems to have no relation to warm-up time. No dummy light on. Have added fuel since start of problem. All fuel from usual source. When not experiencing the problem, seems to run fine. After each stall episode, it started readily and ran okay, with no further problems during that trip.

    More details re: specific trips on which engine stalled. Each time, it was on afternoon drive home from work. Pulling up to stop at stoplight approximately 1 mile from workplace, engine stalled at almost exactly same moment that vehicle came to a stop, all three times. Have almost stalled a few other times, but have also pulled up to same light, same circumstances, with no problem.

    No significant repair history for engine problems to speak of. All routine maintenance done per manual.

    I see above mentions of "throttle body" problems, cable routing problems, fuel cap problems, and more. It's NOT the fuel cap, as best I can tell. There are no other issues with faulty speedometer readouts or the like, and I can't imagine why a cable problem would be so specifically intermittent, so to speak.

    I've got an appt at the dealer's service dept. (please pray for me!), but I'd like to have some idea of what the problem is before they charge me an entire Obama stimulus package to (maybe) fix it.

    Any ideas, suggestions, etc. are welcome.

  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    Get a new fuel filter. Wix Filters are 1/2 the price your dealer will charge. Find a truck driver that drives or owns a diesel [pay if you have to]. Before the new filter is put on your CRD fill it with transmission fluid. The transmission fuel burns hotter than diesel oil and will get the carbon out of the CRD. I carry a WIX fuel filter always in my '05 Liberty Ltd. and have had your problem.
    A bad battery will also cause similar trubble.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Is your engine already warm when it stalls coming to the stoplight you describe? I imagine your transmission oil is also "not yet at temperature".
    Try engaging the "D" position on the transmission and hold the truck for a minute by applying the brakes: this will warm up the engine, cabin heater and transmission.
    It works for me, so nowadays I let the engine run a few minutes while I get rid of the ice and snow off of my wife's vehicle and I don't disengage the transmission while waiting in the local traffic. 5 minutes later I reach the motor way with the engine warm and with the proper shifting sequence.
  • 05libertycrd05libertycrd Member Posts: 6
    Sounds like you're saying the problem is basically a plugged fuel filter; am I understanding that correctly? Would be nice if that's it, since that'd be a cheap fix.

    I really don't think it's a battery problem, given that the engine will restart immediately without difficulty, and it starts on cold mornings pretty much as it always has.

    Regarding the Wix filter--you mention finding a "truck driver that drives or owns a diesel [pay if you have to]". Not sure I understand this bit at all. Why do I need to find a truck driver? Are these filters not available otherwise? What am I missing here?
  • 05libertycrd05libertycrd Member Posts: 6
    "Is your engine already warm when it stalls coming to the stoplight you describe?"

    Yes and no. It's now stalled--completely died, that is--four times. Each occurred within a mile or two of starting a trip. Some warm-up had been allowed for each episode. The warm-up time allowed for the engine during each of these circumstances varies from approx. 3 to as much as 20 min, all spent sitting in lot at idle. This last amount occurred as I sat in the lot, talking on my cell phone while the Jeep idled. [Call history says the phone call lasted 21 min.] I've not had the Jeep out on a trip of longer than about ten-12 miles in the last month, so can't tell you what it acts like at mile 45, say.
  • eammeamm Member Posts: 3
    A new fuel filter is a cheap thing to try. I agree that this is a good possibility b/c I have had the same situation. I changed the filter and everything was good. I keep many on hand and change about every 5K. You can get them online if you don't want to pay the dealer price. Try,
  • 05libertycrd05libertycrd Member Posts: 6
    Now I'm up to four episodes of completely stalling, and the Jeep's at the dealer since 0700 today.

    In phone call with tech this PM, I was told that (a) they didn't pull any codes from the vehicle's computer- when they hooked up "the Derby" to it to check for DTCs, (b) they couldn't replicate the problem when they drove it [of course not], (c), they'd been working on the scheduled maintenance (I'm doing the scheduled stuff same visit for convenience) and (d) I need new brake pads and rotors resurfaced. So, at 43,000 mi and change, I need new brakes (rear moreso than front), after replacing brake pads already at about 23,000, they don't know what the cause of my actual problem is, have little hope of figuring it out, and I'm considering trading the Jeep for a decent bird dog.
  • 05libertycrd05libertycrd Member Posts: 6
    As I said above, I like the idea of a fuel filter being the fix. How would a fuel filter going bad lead to a sudden drop of idle when braking to a stop?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The valve that sets the fuel pressure inside the common rail could give you the same symptom taken into account that the engine is warm and suddenly unloaded by applying the brakes. Try not to use the A/C to see if there is a difference. How does your transmission pull on the engine when this occurs? Have you tried going into Neutral just as you come to a stop?
    I tend to disengage the transmission because my engine pulls quite hard while idling cold: my driveway has a steady ramp of 25% incline and I don't need the brakes to hold the truck in place. If you try to push the Jeep on such a slope, you will better appreciate the power of the diesel engine when it idles; it has to choke or starve to die out.
  • tdmaforttdmafort Member Posts: 1
    I am having the exact same problem, I was told that it might be the intake air control sensor. Changed it but still having the same problem. Was wondering if you had solved it yet.
  • chapusinchapusin Member Posts: 19
    Sorry dude, I gave the car as a trade in and bought a 2010 Tucson. Feels so good.
  • dletourneaudletourneau Member Posts: 2
    Sadly it is not a fuel filter. it is not an oil issue.. Sadly it is a transmission issue. Specifically a torque converter issue.. When coming to a stop does the jeep feel like it wants to keep pushing until it finally starts chugging and dies. if so, you have the plague of the 05 jeep CRDs.. I have had my jeep into the deal 10 times for this issue. had all the fluids changed. had all the filters changed, had all the diags done and yes it still stalls. every day.. and it gets worse when it has been sitting on hot days.. Oh and the best part. It has stalled on the dealer 4 times but since no error code is generated, they will not fix the issue under the warranty... My suggestion, replace the torque converter with an high proformace after market, reflash the tranny or sell it. There is no fix for this issue that is under 750$ bucks..
  • alaskatomalaskatom Member Posts: 1
    Can you please give the part Number for the fuel filter? I just bought a 06' CRD with 26k miles.. so far really like the "rig"...

  • antonimusantonimus Member Posts: 1
    hi, i was on a high way today and for some reason at some point my started dropping speed and eventualy i stoped on the side and i couldnt start the car after, its not coolant liquid and its not oil when i got home i tried starting it and black smoke was coming out and after whitei have a suspicion thats its a timing belt and if someone could help me out please message me on my email [email protected]
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    please message me on my email

    Let's keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit. Doing otherwise tends to defeat the purpose of a Forum. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,482
    edited May 2010
    Probably not a timing belt, no. You probably will have to have it towed into a garage to have the diagnostic trouble codes read by computer to see what's up. Could be so many things here, not enough info to diagnose from a distance. MAF sensor, crank or cam sensor, clogged catalytic, bad ignition coil, failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, bag fuel injector, other sensors reading incorrectly, bad ECM, etc etc.
  • rudyf1rudyf1 Member Posts: 1
    I am replying to a post that is four years old, but hopefully you still check this site. Anyway, the same exact thing is happening to my Jeep Liberty 2003. I paid a mechanic to fix it (450.00 later) and they replaced 2 sensors, coil, spark plugs, and the Jeep still does the same thing..... any suggestions?
  • xbeanxxbeanx Member Posts: 4
    Rudy I replaced my plugs with those bosch quadfire sparkplug things. It ran like garbage so I replaced them with autolite ones. Turns out the bosch ones were slightly too long for the cylinder regardless of the partnumber it said was for my jeep. Prolly a noob move anyways on my part but regardless it still jad the stallin kssue. I replaced the coils and iit ran great for about a day. Then it stalled out again while accelerating to pass someone on the freeway so I took it ti a shop. I had them replace my crank and cam sensors. It ran for about 15 mins then it ran like garbage. I hooked up my diagnostic computer and it read a misfire in cyl3. Impossible I thought as I had just replaced the coils and the plugs were exact replicas of what was in before. So I went and bought another new coil. After replacing the coils again conpletely I found out that once one coil goes bad the others tend to fail a lot easier not too long after. Kind of like a dominoe effect. Wjat had happened to me was that the new cyl3 coil I had installed the 1st time went bad and fried the rest of them randomly. Pull your coils one by one and check the shaft for any irregular bulging or cracks. Once I replaced all my coils at the same time with new coils, it ran like a champ and still is running great! I have a 2003 jeep renegade. Feel free to email me if you'd like. [email protected]
  • wolfman62wolfman62 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2007 Liberty with 89,000 miles and it just started doing the same thing when we try to start it, the locks start clicking, and the starter doesn't engage, but all the lights and everything are fine, it act's like the battery is low or dieing, but all lighting and everything look normal. after a couple of tries it will finally turn over and start, but after it gets started it has no power, the engine wont rev up, it will only do about 25 miles per hour, but if you shut it off and start it a few times then it will run fine. Has anyone else had this issue and have you found out what it was on your Jeep.
  • pvanderhpvanderh Member Posts: 2
    This morning my 2006 Jeep Liberty started to act like it was going to die at a stop light. I was only a few blocks from leaving my house. I kept my foot on the gas slightly to keep it running. I turned down the next road and as soon as I put my foot on the brake to pull to the side of the road it died. I tried to start it and it almost started but was real rough. If I pushed on the gas right as it started it would run but very rough, as though it was running short of all 6. Does anyone know where I could start before I take it in to a stealership or moneychanic? It sound similar to some of the problems tha have linked to throttle body cleaning and cam sensor replacement but I did not notice gas smell and the tach did not go crazy.
  • johnhayworthjohnhayworth Member Posts: 16
    When did you change your fuel filter? Same problem hapened to me. Was the Fuel filter. Unfortunately this is how you find you got some bad fuel. Now I keep a new fulter in my Crd at all times. jdh;-)
  • pvanderhpvanderh Member Posts: 2
    After trying the easy things I had to take it in. The mechanic found that #1 had very low compression. He went on vacation so I had to take it to another mechanic. He did say that after putting some sort of cleaner in the cyl, in hopes that the valve was just stuck, that the cyl did not seem to me leaking. Possible good news that it is just something wrong with the valve...? I should know more today after the other mechanic can look into it. I will try to post back with the resulting info.
  • nezlonnezlon Member Posts: 3
    I ended up replacing both the camshaft position and crankshaft position sensors. Reset my computer and ever since, my problem has been fixed. Cost for the parts was minimal (less than $60USD for both) but it was very labor intensive to replace as I had to remove my catalytic convertor to get to the crankshaft position sensor. This is the only issue I've had with my Liberty and it is now at 97K. I hope this helps someone down the road (pun intended). :)
  • peter1auspeter1aus Member Posts: 3
    Last week while going home my jeep started stalling on hwy it lost the power, I let it roll and stop.Everything else was running fine I shift gear from Drive to Park and turn off the engine.I tried to start the engine and it didn't start.I tried twice and white smoke came out of exhaust.I got it towed to my mechanic.after 3 days he showed me 3 ignition coils were literally blasted, He recommened to change all 6 ignition coils, sprak plugs and crank sensor, I agreed to it and two day later he said this doesn't seem to fix the problem.He took it for drive and same problem again after 10 minutes.this time 2 of new ignition coils blasted again, he mentioned he never saw something like this with ignition coils.He said two of the coils are misfiring and this happen only with those two.Now he say it seems to be PCM, he doesn't do PCM, he ask me to contact dealer,Which I will be doing tomorrow.Please advise what should I do.I have read lots of post here and Very few people had luck with getting thier problems fixed without spending too much money.Any help is appreciated.
  • peter1auspeter1aus Member Posts: 3
    I got my jeep today and the dealer replaced two ignition coils all 6 spark plugs, crank sensor, cam sensor, gasket for throttle, pcv valve and i have drove 30 miles so far no issue.I will keep it posted, if their are any issues. :)
  • minipowerminipower Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. I have come here and other forums to ask for help with a 02 jeep liberty.

    I am getting to my wits end with this.

    The problem is it will start and run fine as long as I hold the gas pedal for about 10 to 30 seconds.

    If I do not hold the gas pedal the jeep will start and the idle will drop below 500 RPM and it will die, this takes about 10 to 30 seconds after the engine fires.

    It's sounding to me like a vacuum leak or the IAC. So I noticed the rubber hose connections to the plastic lines that come from the throttle body were cracked, so I replaced them, and I could not find the IAC spec's online to ohm it out, so I just went to autozone and payed the $70 for a new one.

    After changing out the old cracked rubber hose connectors,checking for other vacuum leaks and replacing the IAC, it is still doing the same thing.
    Starting and dieing/stalling.

    The jeep runs fine after me holding the gas pedal for the 10-30 seconds, well it is using alittle more MPG than normal, I could go for 1.5 weeks on a tank of gas, now I am getting almost a week.

    I am hoping the extra eyes and ears on this will get it cracked
  • spoograbspoograb Member Posts: 6
    Hi all, I have an 08 Liberty Sport 4x4. I bought it certified preowned back in October with 25k miles here in New England. Now that the weather is becoming damper, I'm noticing the engine wants to sometimes stall at idle. It will idle slightly about 500 and then all of a sudden the rpm will dip to around 300 and the car will shake slightly. Then suddenly the engine will recover itself and send rpm around 750. If sitting at idle for a couple of minutes, the idle will slowly go down to 500 again and the same process will happen. Tomorrow will be the 3rd time it has been to Jeep. It was a clean carfax with oil changes every 5000 and i just did the $600 30k mile checkup. Seems like it was well taken care of prior to my ownership, so not sure what is going on. The first time, Jeep updated the software which now makes my transmission shift in entirely different places.... Second time they replaced the electronic throttle body because I said the dash lights flickered a little when the engine wanted to stall. That was done 2 weeks ago and all of a sudden we get 2 days of rain/snow and it happens again. Now today is 45 and sunny and dry and the car idles as smooth as could be. Any ideas? Should I be concerned? HELP! Thanks.
  • benw8831benw8831 Member Posts: 1
    i recently bought a used jeep just ran over 102,000 and the check engine light came on and a couple days later it started shaking when the car gets to a low idle at a stop light. it kind of chugs around now does not like to go past thirty but it will the car never died on me i took it to get it checked out and my number six cyl was misfiring .....i replaced the number six coil pack and all six spark plugs i went for the bosch four prong plugs....i then cleaned the air filter and changed the oil and she is already doing the same thing not even twelve hours later......i am in the military and dont make a lot of money suggestions?
  • courtjestcourtjest Member Posts: 1
    So does anyone have a fix for the stalling and tach jumping for the 2002 Jeep liberty before I run it into the river? Oh wait I can't do that cause it will stall out before i get there lol.
  • nezlonnezlon Member Posts: 3
    Try replacing the Cam position and Crankshaft sensors. It is impossible to tell which one is the issue. I bought both at NAPA for around $60 then had a friend help me replace them which required disconnecting a portion of the exhaust in front of the catalytic convertor. From what I've read, dealership mechanics have taken customers on a ride for the symptoms that you and many others have experienced. Anyway... replacing both the sensors fixed my ills with my Jeep. Good luck!
  • nkotbchicankotbchica Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty 2WD which I was driving yesterday and it was working fine. I parked it and when I went to start it, it just wouldn't. The lights and the radio work just fine (so it's not the battery). I thought that maybe I ran out of gas, so my BF put some in it, but every time we would turn the key, it makes a noise as if there are rocks in the engine and it never turns over. It sounds awful! I don't know what it could be. I just got my oil changed and the transmission fluid changed too. Any ideas on what it could be? Could it be my catalytic converter? Help! Thanks!
  • yodelsruleyodelsrule Member Posts: 1
    After several years of this issue and hundreds of dollars in parts and labor......the problem has been solved thanks to a post on this site.
    When diagnostic codes showed the overdrive sensor not working I had it replaced but still didn't fix it. I came to this site and read the problem of the routing of the speed sensor wires located on the rear difrential. The problem is that they rub on the E-brake cable and once the wire is exposed they short and the speedometer and any other options running off the speed sensor quit working and that includes the tranny shift points and can cause the torque converter to not unlock and cause stalls. So I called my brother and asked him to check these wires and sure enough, they had worn through. We went to a dealer and got the replacement kit for $32.00 and my brother replaced it. He also took the time to encase the wires in a plastic tubing to avoid this problem again. I was looking to get rid of my jeep out of frusteration but I am glad to say this gilr is now keeping her Jeep!
  • loco10loco10 Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I have the same Problem with my jeep. It was driving just fine and suddenly it did not want to shift to 3rd gear at all if you could lett me know what to do I just bought it. it has 104,000 miles on it and what is the code meaning of P0733 and P0734
  • lexx4lexx4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I hope someone can help with my issues. I purchased an 02 Jeep Liberty Limited for my daughter. This is her first car and I really wanted to make sure the vehicle I purchased was a dependable one so she would never be broke down somewhere in distress. Well since I purchased this Jeep I have been back and forth to the dealer with starting and stalling issues. First of all when I was driving it home the idle dropped down and the vehicle stalled. I waited a minute and restarted it, then drove it straight back to the dealer. He looked at it and said it must be the battery, so he replaced it and it ran fine. When the vehicle is running it runs great. After replacing the battery I drove to pick up the check to purchase the vehicle. After picking up the check I drove back to the car lot and thought everything was ok. When I got back in it, it wouldn't start. Well the guy crawled under it while I held the key in start position and it started. He said it was the starter so he put a new one on. Now I have been driving it for three days with no problems. My daughter just called me about two hours ago and said it wouldn't start. She sat there for about five minutes and eventually it started up again. I am baffled!! Like I said when its running it runs great but this problem really worries me for the safety of my daughter. If you have any advice please let me know and if you have any questions for me to help figure this out please ask me. Hope something works out.

  • jong818jong818 Member Posts: 3

    How many miles is in ur daughter's jeep?
    I assume that NO check engine light is on, battery is new, starter is new.
    It could be some ignition contacts that is part of the steering column. Visually, these contacts are probably made from some kind of zinc-lead alloy, that I "describe" as soft metal.
    I had similar signs of this type of failure and had the steering column replaced. You can start it usually in the AM, when the weather is cold.
    If my opinion is true, try putting the gear in N(eutral), step on the break and turn the ignition. Getting a new steering column yourself and pay only for labor, before the time comes when u can't hardly start the jeep, could be a factor to consider.

    Jong (2002 Jeep liberty, 3.7L V6), L.A., Calif
    Engine Oil = 5W30
  • bbarb1bbarb1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2006 Jeep liberty 2 years ago and at that time it had less then 20,000 miles one it. First thing to go on vehicle were the window regulators...three of them had to be replaced. Now the car with 53,000 miles on it looks like there might be transmission problems. I have had it at the dealership on and off for the last 2 months trying to locate the problem. The dealership tells me that no error codes show up. The car recently started to stall out on me and the dealership, again tells me they can't find the problem. This is an intermittant issue, when the is car stopped at light while in drive, will slip back into neutral. Dealership tells me when this problem happens just throw the car back into neutral then back into drive.....How is it that Chrysler can't figure out what is wrong with their own car???? I have been endlessly on the phone with Detroit and nothing.....I hate this car....The dealership tells me that they have never seen a problem like this!
  • 3jrh3jrh Member Posts: 1
    I am right there with ya! This November I bought a '06 liberty w/ an automatic transmission and am starting to have the same problems-especially on inclines! This is my first purchase-trying to build my credit and now I am stuck trying to figure out what is wrong. The Jeep doesn't even have 104,000 mile yet!
  • jeep35jeep35 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I hope someone has the answer, I have a Jeep Liberty 02 4x4 64,000 miles. Has been great until now.
    Last Friday I drove doing errands, it was fine, came out from walmart, it started, RPM thing was bouncing like crazy, transmission light on and it immediately stalled. did this several times. I finally got it were I could put into reverse went 4 feet and stalled, did this several times. Furthest I got it was maybe 50 ft. Left the car there overnight, next day started and drove home fine.

    I took it to my mechanic, there was the camshaft sensor error, but since the car ran fine I took it home. Have driven only very short trips and is OK. Today I went across town, 12 miles, and on the way back about 1 mile from my house going 45mph the RPM dial started bouncing like crazy, the engine stalled , transmission light on. Same as the other day it would start, then stall immediately. I waited, about 1 1/2 hour and then it started and drove fine. Was that because the engine was cool? Any Suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated, I am a single mom, with no husband, boyfriend or any mechanical knowledge myself, and did I mention I am also financially cash poor? so if I could tell the mechanic what it might be... that would be great. I have read the forums and many have replaced a lot parts and it still was not fixed, am hoping to avoid that. :cry: Thanks Susan
  • krawphishkrawphish Member Posts: 1
    So... 06 Liberty started stalling out randomly, no CEL, just like someone turned off the key.

    Changed oil and filter, Air filter, Spark Plugs, PCV Valve, Cleaned idle air control valve, cleaned throttle body.

    Jeep ran fine for about 10 days.

    Saturday, put in reverse, moved 4 feet, stalled out.

    Replaced Cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor, throttle position sensor. Tested coils. All checked good.

    Thinking it's the fuel pump, fuel filter, or fuel pressure requlator. All one unit. Looking into changing that unit. Thoughts?
  • marcg58marcg58 Member Posts: 2
    Our 2003 Liberty, with 3.7L engine, began stalling once in a while when letting off the throttle. It would start up right away and then be OK for days. The last time, though, it stalled while driving normally and wouldn't start. It had some weird behavior, this time.

    1) While stalling, the tach went crazy, jumping up to over 3000, down to 0, back and forth, until it stalled.

    2) Engine light plus battery and oil lights went on. I had a Bluetooth OBD plugged in and using Torque on my phone the codes were P0320 (crank position sensor problem) and P1299 (Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated) - MAP Sensor signal does not correlate to Throttle Position Sensor signal).

    3) Battery seemed fine while first trying to re-start it, but then appeared completely dead 20 minutes later. I opened the door and the dome light wouldn't come on. Hazard lights were off. Turning the key got me nothing. Later, while on tow, the hazard lights came back on.

    4) Mechanic couldn't find the problem. The charging system tested fine and he could start it, but it ran rough, like on two cylinders. And the catalytic converter got red hot right away.

    Any ideas at all?
  • marcg58marcg58 Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2012
    The dealer tech found fouled and worn-out plugs. Not surprising, since there are 150K miles. But also three ignition coils are bad. Replacing those got the Liberty running well, but compression was low.

    His problem, and mine, too, why did three coils go bad at once? And considering the weird electrical and tach behavior, I'm guessing there's more to the root cause. Computer? Other electrical problem?

    And what about low compression? Are we looking at more problems down the road?
  • lcaballeroslcaballeros Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 jeep liberty sport 4x4 I took it to the mechanic and he told me that the engine was done on it So i had to get a used engine inatalled on it He did that for me Went to pick it up Drove it for 10minutes and it stalled while i was driving it So i had to get it towed to his shop He said he was gonna change the ignition switch cuz he said thattat coulve been the problem(wich i doubt it) he said he took it for a test drive n it did the same thing Its been in his shop for a week after he switch the engine and he doesnt seem to find the problem Does anybody have any sugestion ??
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