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Thank you for the help. I really need it on this one.
p.s. The dealership says there is only a 1 year warranty on the new engine instead of the full 100,000. Another questionable thing.
What brand of filter was it? Do you still have it?
My initial guess for a 2.7 with a PO306 code would be bad spark-plug wires. Did they change those as well?
I recently bought a 2007 and just yesterday realized that the front rail does not slide forward of the rear doors. this is silly as I either have to install skis with a lot of overhang in the front or back, and in the latter case I then can't open the rear door.
Anyone know why Hyundai has done this? Any tested solutions out there?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Dealers generally don't mess around with "fixing" things. They pay high salaries and have high overhead, so they max the mechanics' hours with quick parts replacements, and minimize their own risk in the same way.
I seem to get different info wherever I look.
Thanks.
IIRC, my girlfriend's 2.7L Santa Fe (2007) calls for service every 5k.
This problem is another in a long line of issues that we have had with our Santa Fe, which was bought new.
Anyway, within the last week, the air bag light on the dash has come on. This is not the passenger air bag light, but the one in the instrument cluster that is RED.
Took the car into the dealer and his report was that the error code indicated that the battery cold cranking amps were low and this is what was causing the warning light to come on.
Huh? I am not an electical engineer but have an electrical background and I don't see the connection. I live in a warm weather climate that rearely gets below freezing and what is the issue with cold cranking amps of the battery causing the warning light to come on. He could not tell me why, just that this is what the error code is spitting out. 125 for a new battery but I said no, it just doesn't make sense. When running, under load battery and alternator are fine.
Took the car to another shop and the battery tested out at 525 CCA's. Not great but O.K. for a 3+ year old battery and seeing that the original battery was only rated at 600 CCA's that is not bad for 3 plus years.
Car was tested with no load and across the battery I was getting 14.3 volts which is good. Under load, across the battery I am getting 14.1 volts. So that all checks out.
Question now is with the light on, system is deactivated. I guess what is my next step? I could have the dealer reset the system and see if the error comes back, but from my point of view, it appears that the dealer has no clue other than what their system is saying.
Anyone else have any ideas as to the problem? I've seen plenty of posts that deal with the passenger side air bag, but not many with the main system error light on.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
john
That's outrageous, but typical of dealerthink. Go to any Auto Zone or similar. Most will connect a code reader and tell you the code for free.
That is what I am going to do and have them clear the code and then see if it comes back when we start the car again.
It is possible that the battery is the problem, but I want to make as sure as possible before I replace the battery. Since our battery suffered a deep cycle this summer when the alternator went, it is possible that the battery lost some CCA's from that deep cycle. Unlike cell phone batteries, it is never good to deep cycle a car battery unless it is rated for deep cycle.
Anyway, I will check in with AutoZone and see what they read of the error code then proceed from there. It is a wacky thing, but I am not pleased seeing that this Santa Fe is having more problems than it really should in my mind.
john
I have a 2008 Santa Fe 3.3 with 20k miles. I hear a ticking sound under light to medium acceleration when cold. It sounds like it's related to just one cylinder (like one tick per revolution). When engine is at normal temp. it's gone. It's been there a few thousand miles. I use Mobile 1 5w-20 with Korean made filter. I went to the Mobile 1 at about 11k and the sound occured some time later.
Intake 0.17-0.23mm (0.0067-0.0090in.)
Exhaust 0.27-0.33mm (0.0106 0.0129in.)
I don't have a labor rate for that job but I'd guess a couple hours. You should be under warranty but unless the valves are really making a racket, I doubt Hyundai would approve this adjustment under warranty.
However, NO HARM in making sure they note the complaint on paper during your next service---this way, if it gets worse when OUT of warranty, you might have cause to ask for a good will repair. I'd make note of it during each service you get at the dealer.
Sorry for being long winded.
thanks
To be fair, however, I have heard that auto manufacturers have to use an inferior paint now due to - what else? - environmental concerns. It probably won't be long before they are forced to use washable markers.
Nissan even makes self-healing paint that'll cover over little chips.
Thanks.
, use a soft cloth so you dont scratch the paint.
by removing the trim it shows access to the roof rail hinge. then you can slide the the cross bars to the rear of the car . dont forget to unscrew the roof antenna before sliding the cross bars, any peticular reason why your removing this out of the car?
Instead of a screwdriver, would something thin and wide, like a putty knife, be better?
John
John
I turn the key and the engine catches and the rpm gauge shows the engine running up to about 900rpms and then it dies. It usually takes 3 or 4 tries to get it to keep running.
So warm or cold, just driven or not driven over night. It is very intermittent.
It just started to do this in the last couple of weeks. The rate of this happening is slowly becoming shorter. Soon I fear it will not start at all.
What do you think? Fuel pump? A module or switch?
Any and all help is much appreciated.