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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems



  • I have just started having the same problem with my 2008 Sebring. Will lose power suddenly, and idiot light comes on. My mechanic has replaced to different items in the last month, after reading codes. Have had it back for 2 days and light came back on this am, loss of power, etc. Love the car , but got it because my old car was strting to nickle and dime us to death. Now don't know what to do, as this one seems to be doing the same thing.
  • the 2008 and some 2007's had a electrical recall. I think there are 8 total recalls. But here is the link on 4 of them .. See if yours is part of the recall and if they will repair the car if not save your money and sell it looks at KIA, Honda, Toyota or Ford breviatedid=1617

    Like most car makers they choose a small range of cars using the vin numbers then say Oh your car is not part of the recall in order to save money. If they get caught or sued then they EXPAND the recall like what happened to Honda and Toyota lately. Chrysler used to mean quality uo until the mid 70's when to Cordoba / Aspen model came out then it was just straight down hill!
  • I am having stall problems (at stops or while idling and can be immediately started again), along with RPMs revving randomly, and cruise control randomly turning off.
    I have replaced multiple parts, including the MAP sensor. Now I have to have an electrical diagnostics in the next few weeks at the Dealer (can't get in any sooner). No recalls on this issue for this year/make. I would recommend anyone with a 1996 or 1997 Sebring with similar issues call Chrysler Customer Service at 800-853-1403 and ask a file be created for your vehicle. They did call the dealer I am working with, so they know I have been in touch with Chrysler. No recalls can happen unless people make these issues known (power to the masses and all that!!). I will be happy to report any solution, but I can tell you I have replaced the timing belt, water pump, fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter and have regular oil changes and use additives to reduce water in the gas. And no, I cannot just run out and buy another vehicle...I am all in at this point. Thinking I didn't have this problem any more, I have a new roof on the it LOOKS GREAT...big deal. Again, call and report your could help all of us with this year and issue.
  • joa2joa2 Posts: 1
    I have the same exact problem. By any chance did you find out what the problem was? This sucks. I hope you're not still having the same dangerous problem. I would really appreciate your advise. Thanks man.
  • machinist3machinist3 Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    check the fuel you are using,they are picky when they get some miles..if 93 octain don't help,check your throttle body, it might help to clean around the baffle..spray heavy with throttle cleaner after you wipe out. spray with motor running with a little can also use sea foam through a vaccume line, keep engine revved while doing so...will smoke a lot while doing this, that is normal, allow to run with a rev till smoking stops. let me know if this helps helped mine..
  • stanstilstanstil Posts: 1
    you may check the engine coolant temperature sensor. it tell computer the temp of motor and the computer uses that info to determine fuel and air etc to give the engine...if it is bad it will not set off engine light but send bad info to computer
    ex engine hot sensor says its cold it dumps more gas than needed car stalls etc etc it is a simple fix cheap
    it has nothing to do with temp you see on dash totally separate sensor for that ECT is for pcm only
    engine coolant temp sensor change it out good luck
  • howie22howie22 Posts: 2
    1996 Sebring Hesitating (Misfiring) & sometimes Stalling:
    Getting code on Scanner Tool = Acteon ‘AutoScanner Plus’ - CP9580

    P1391 = Lost of Camshaft crank
    Info’ from Scanner Tool; what could cause this problem:
    1) Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
    2) Replaced Distributor Assembly
    3) Replaced Flex Plate (fly wheel)**
    4) Repair CKP Sensor Connector
    5) Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

    Parts Replaced (in order):
    1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) (2 times) --- After 1st (aftermarket) sensor change; hesitation went away for about 1 year…
    2) After 2nd (CKP) sensor (Chrysler part); hesitation restarted after driving only a few miles…
    3) MAP Sensor & its connector --- At this time I was also getting code ‘P1296’ (No 5V to MAP Sensor) Hesitation restarted after driving about 30 miles (have not gotten this code P1296 since …
    4) Fuel pump --- Was recommend to change… Again hesitation started after a few miles….
    5) Distributor (Camshaft Sensor built in) with a new one aftermarket…
    6) Sparkplugs & their wires at the same time as the distributor was replaced; with no help…
    7) Powertrain Control Module (PCM) – Ran for a few miles then the problems come back very intermittent…

    Also I have ohm-out wires (harness) from sensors to PCM; moving harness to see if there is an intermittent open, looked OK…

    The car seams to hesitate more when:
    1) Moving from a slow to a faster speed or going uphill (engine under load) …
    2) Also accelerating from a stop…
    3) The ‘Check Engine Light’ does not come on all the time when the engine hesitates…
    3) When the engine does stalls-out (which is very intermittent) it always restarts with no problems…
    4) **I cannot believe the Flex Plate would be the problem… What do you think?
    Does anyone think it could be the timing Belt?

    As of June 6, 2013…
    Also getting code:
    P1296 = No 5 Voltage to manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
    Info’ from Scanner Tool:
    1) Replaced Manifold Absolute (Map) Sensor
    2) Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
  • I have the exact same problem only my ride is a 1999 jxi with the 2.5L. Do you have the 2.5L as well. I was thinking maybe the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
    one other note: the ONLY error code my car spit out was P0304 - cylinder 04 misfire.
    I would appreciate any feedback you may have.
  • howie22howie22 Posts: 2
    edited July 2013
    Yes I have the have the 2.5L… I found this video look it over… My problem is still not solved, but will look into some of the points shown on the video... l
  • shhagstershhagster Posts: 1
    This may be nothing but my ford ranger had starting issues for about a year ( replaced fuel filter and the pump )sometimes after it warmed up it just wouldn't restart for a few hours then for no rhyme or reason it would start. End result it was my f#$%ing $20 fuel relay. Been running fine ever since.
  • jklinjklin Posts: 1
    Please tell me you found a solution to this problem. I have been researching this problem for a while and all the solutions point to a $500 fix. I just do not have that kind of money. Now your description of the problem is an exact match to mine. Especially the part about wet weather making the problem really bad. Ive been able to make it through the summer but winter is coming and I can just imagine the crap shoot that will be. So please share with me what you learned.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Ok this sounds like it could be the MAF.. Mass Air Flow sensor. Do you have the LX JX V6 or 4?

    Failure symptoms

    Problems with Mass Air Flow sensors are common. Bad or contaminated CHRYSLER Sebring Mass Air Flow sensor can possibly cause a wide range of various vehicle drivability problems such as stalling, especially when the engine is cold, misfiring, poor acceleration, etc. In addition, a problem with the Mass Air Flow sensor often causes the "check engine" or "service engine soon" light in the vehicle instrument panel to illuminate.


    The Air Flow Sensor or Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is one of the components of an electronic fuel injection system and is found in many of modern vehicles. Most mass air flow sensors are one piece hermetically sealed units with no moving components.

    The Mass Air Flow sensor is used to measure (actually weight) the amount of air entering the engine. This measurement is used by the engine computer or ECM to calculate proper amount of fuel injected into the cylinders in order to provide optimum combustion and low emissions.
    Maintenance Tips/Suggestions

    CHRYSLER Sebring Mass air flow sensor requires no regular maintenance. On mass air flow sensors with a sense wire, this wire can become contaminated with dust particles. These particles can be removed with automotive solvents that are safe for the use on mass air flow sensors. CHRYSLER Sebring mass air flow sensors are commonly misdiagnosed. Before replacing the mass air flow sensor check for air leaks in the connecting air ducts and intake manifold. These leaks can cause similar symptoms as a malfunctioning mass air flow sensor.


    The CHRYSLER Sebring Mass Air Flow sensor is usually installed in the intake air duct between the air filter and the throttle body mounted on the intake manifold. Some mass air flow sensors are mounted directly to the throttle body.
  • svndrasvndra Posts: 1
    My 2003 Chrysler Sebring v6 3.0L shuts off at a standstill/stop lights. At first, I thought that it was just the gas that wasn't going because all the lights and radio would stay on when it would shut off. It starts back up immediately after I take out the key and restart it. My mechanic thought he had solved my problem by tightening one of the cables to the battery but it still does this. I just had the starter replaced too, because it was "burned out" according to my mechanic. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. It would not do this before I had to get my starter replaced.
  • Well its unfortunately probably too late to help you, but it ended up being a flaky starter relay. Swapped it out with the A/C Relay and car starts but no cold a/c....go figure. In Texas no a/c is almost as bad as not starting but a relay is a cheap fix and an easy troubleshooting step.
  • 2001 sebring with 85000 miles. It's been running great but this morning nothing, just cranks. Checked for fuel pump powering up (it is) checked / swapped fuel pump relay anyway and several fuses including the one for ASD. No error codes.

    I popped the fuel line at the rail and there is fuel but did not seem to be under much pressure, I also bought some starter fluid and it will start and run on that for a few seconds. I suspect my pump may be powering up but just not generating pressure or the pressure regulator is bad, either requires dropping the tank so I maybe should just replace both, my issue is I have never had a fuel pump "sort of" fail they have always been just dead...anyone have a similar issue before? I have had a dodge durango and a dakota where I had similar symptoms with bad crankshaft / camshaft sensors but those gave codes.
  • 3.0 5spd 03 car hesitated under acceleration first would go to a stall, hesitated if gas was pressed would run just fine wile cruising really slow acceleration to get up to speed. misfire detected ses light on. now car wont start if cranked for about 5 seconds car will attempt to start hear combustion but combustion wont continue any suggestions would be helpful
  • 96 sebring misfiring. diagnoised as a distributor problem,could this be caused by cat convertor
  • could be caused by a distributor problem, though
  • replaced distributor with after market distributor and begin getting different codes with each distributor
  • did you ever figure out what the problems was?

    I'm working on an 04 sebring 2.4 liter and having same problems it sounds like. I have access to a lot of manuals anre are having a hard time chasing this one down.
  • kjnthkjnth Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what caused this? I've had the same issues and the dealership is trying to get me to pay $1200 to replace the idle speed motor. What they are telling me is that anytime the battery is disconnected on my car, they have to re-program the idle speed motor to stop it from shutting off at the standstill. However, I've owned this car for over 5 years and never had an issue. I called Firestone where I have also had my car serviced and they said they have never had to re-program the idle speed motor after disconnecting the battery. It works right now as long as the car is in reverse or drive. If it is in neutral or park, it dies instantly (after it has warmed up). So frustrated!
  • donnaluvdonnaluv Posts: 7

    Re: Sputtering, stalling, won't start. Ok guys, I also have a 96 Chrysler Sebring, 2.5 v6 Convertible. I have spent over $3400 this past year fixing everything! I am here to save you from doing the same. I replaced the ECU,spark plugs ( but that was ok they were the wrong ones) Chrysler Sebrings are suppose to only use Champion Plus premium, Bosh does not work on everything, including this car. I replaced the timing belt, oh Lord I could go on and on. In the end I finally find a mechanic with some brains, apparently I had leaky valve gaskets and the oil went into my CRANK SHAFT Sensor. Anyway, you must use the OEM, I bought mine at Auto Zone for $61, dealer had it for $82, but after I bought mine, found the OEM on Amazon for $31. Finally, no more sputtering, stalling and no start. I found we should replace the crank shaft sensor about every 60k miles, although Chrysler says every 100k. Be sure you use most OEM products for this car, after market ones will not work!!!! We live and we learn. God Bless and good luck guys, easy fix! Oh and I paid $40 for install not a big job, they can go in from the drivers side wheel well after removing the plastic cover when the tires off. Don't get ripped off like I did.

  • donnaluvdonnaluv Posts: 7

    PS: Also check for recalls on this car, there are many which can save you a fortune!

  • donnaluvdonnaluv Posts: 7

    @skeeter5 said:
    my 98 sebring convt.will not start when it gets hot.i can wait a few minutes(45) and it will start.when the car is hot,i do not have please.

  • angewa26angewa26 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 2.4 Chrysler denting that everytime it warms up it making a rattling noisy when I push the gas..I done changed plugs wires and good gas...crankshaft censor and the timing ..the mechanic said something is throwing the timing off electronically please help
  • Hi there, I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Touring 2.7 GAS. It has had stalling problems for over a year now. It finally just crapped the bed today. Wont even start up. Changed numerous amount of sensors. Thinking it may be the electronic throttle body. Has anyone else with the same model as my car changed that and had any luck? Anything helps. Let me know!

  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222

    Above, @rbender says there have been some recalls for some 2007-2008 models. Some vehicles with TPMS systems have unused wires that could corrode and short out, causing no-starts, dead batteries, and stalling.
    Recall #08V152000

    @fedupwithlemon said:
    Hi there, I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Touring 2.7 GAS. It has had stalling problems for over a year now. It finally just crapped the bed today. Wont even start up. Changed numerous amount of sensors. Thinking it may be the electronic throttle body. Has anyone else with the same model as my car changed that and had any luck? Anything helps. Let me know!


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  • twnoirtwnoir Posts: 1

    I have a 2003 Sebring LXi 3.0. I get no spark or fuel. Considering the ASD relay. Where is the ASD relay?

  • After reading about these issues I'm a little depressed. I was hoping to find others with my issues that had solutions.... I have a 2004 Sebring convertable that I just bought a few months ago. I check the car fax and it was great - previous owner took very good care of it with all the regular mileage check ups. When I have been driving for at least a half hour - it wants to stall with I come to a stop. It has only died twice, but started right back up. When it starts acting like it's going to stall out, I put it in neutral and give it a little gas till the light turns green. But it continues to act like that until I turn it off for awhile. I took it to a Pep Boys, and they just had me pick it back up without doing anything saying their diagnostics only gave them an electrical code and that I would have to take it to the dealer to run down any electrical problems and told me it would probably cost quite a bit for them to track it down. Does anyone have any information or answers for me? I would like to not go to the dealership totally dumb. Other than this issue it runs great.

  • I had a similar problem with my 04 Sebring. the electrical connector on the camshaft sensor was broke. It would slide onto the camshaft sensor but it would not clip so the connector was loose and not getting a good connection.I would check over all the connectors on all the sensors. I would also check over all the wiring looking for broke wires, grounds, and corroded wires. If that don't work you can try to clean the electrical connectors going to the sensors if that don't work try cleaning the sensors themself. you can go on the internet and find out what to use on the sensor to clean them. Good luck.
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