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Ron F
Southern California.There is still no inventory
build up here and that is the key to price
reduction.Why bother shipping them all the way to
Oklahoma when the west coast could absorb a bunch.
That's a scary thought,more cars on the road with
people talking on cell phones.
tidester
Host
SUVs
Another concern - maybe it is just how the transmission works in this crv but it seems as if it has trouble going from 2nd to 3rd - the RPM's jump up quite a bit before it will shift. There is no real jerking feeling, it just feels as if it doesn't want to go there. When it reaches 3rd, the RPM drop back down. Maybe I'm being too picky about a new car and any little thing I notice. Also, sometimes when I come to a stop, the car feels like it wants to jump. I drove a rental Daewoo some time back and that piece of junk would jump 5 feet every time I would come to a stop. The crv is not doing that, but there seems to be a little surge. I am NOT an auto wizard so am wondering if I should be concerned about this. I've got about 1400 miles.
I don't know what CU and others have said about road noise - the crv is a very quiet car with very little road/wind noise. Everyone that has ridden in it has said the same thing. The only thing I have a complaint about in terms of driving comfort is that on bad roads it can become choppy. It is not terrible but certainly can be felt.
When I am looking through topics and I don't want to read a certain post I use the scroll bar to zip right past it, but that's just me.
Now I will let you and everyone else get back to the discussions going on about the lack of a V6 and the ugly 70's-ish saddle interior. I didn't realize we were limited to specific issues. Enjoy.
Everyone was very cordial about this, but you. I was going to stop posting, but I think I will continue. So keep that finger ready.
Thanks for allowing this topic to continue as it was intended.
Has anyone else experienced this?
What would I tell the service dept. - maybe Honda service is better, but from experiences with other cars, I usually get 'could not duplicate'.
First check your warranty book. Many manufacturers will void any rust warranty if an aftermarket rusproofing or undercoating is added.
The reason that they do this is that cars are set up to drain water through channels and weep-holes on the bottom of fenders, doors etc. Aftermarket coatings block these holes, not allowing water to drain.
In addition, undercoating and rustproofing traps water in between the coating and the metal, encouraging rust.
Why did you get the coating?
Accessories has an O2 CRV bra for $63.60,dealer price is $119.I had a plastic bug defelector on
my Explorer and it vibrated to where it rubbed the paint off.
I always thought modern cars were painted very well - why it is pointless and a waste of money to buy the dealer's paint protection package for $695 or some outrageous price. Is that not true??
As for the transmission - I will take it in soon to see what the dealer says. At the very least, I will have a written record of reporting some possible problem.
There are at least two online sites to get a deflector - weathertech (not sure of the actual web site name) makes one and collegehillshonda.com sells one.
I have not seen anyone else report this.
I don't have an '02 CR-V, so it would be more helpful if other '02 CR-V owners can report if they have a similar problem.
Back to the bug deflectors.
MuckyDuck - Like it or not, Honda has not been known for building the best automatic transmissions. They may be efficient, lightweight, and a host of other good things, but they often do not measure up in comparisons of smoothness, or even reliability. It's a chink in the typical Honda armor, if you will. Manual trannies are another story. Honda makes some of the best manuals.
As long as we're bringing up faults, brakes and tires are two other areas where Honda doesn't stay competitive. Except for their all-out performance cars, Hondas are typically mid-back with regard to braking performance (great modulation and resistance to fade, but long stopping distances). The undershod rims may contribute to those results.
You can't get everything perfect unless you're willing to pay some serious bucks.
I know that there were posts easlier about clunky shifts, but I can't recall if it's the same problem you are experiencing. That may have been an issue with accelerating in first gear. Not sure.
cars disappearing in my rear view mirror.I guess
because the engine is quieter than the 2.3 Vtec
in my last car.Very similar performance is felt
but the coupe felt very stable at 80 mph.I think
70 mph is a safe limit for the tall short CRV.
I experimented with tire pressure and at 26 psi it is smooth and stable up to 70 mph.At 30psi it
feels nervous.My son has a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee and he runs 35 PSI with oversize tires and a liftkit and it is scary at 70 mph but he loves it.My age has something to do with it (55).
I've been lurking on occasion for quite some time but did not get around to registering until now. I've been a member of the CR-V information exchange at www.hondasuv.com since near it's beginning in '97 and am glad to see other members here. A special hello to Varmint and Slugline (I forget your other name at CRVIX)!
htowncrv - In my case the spare tire actually saved my CR-V from being damaged when I was rear-ended. The Accord was quite damaged (shattered grill, buckled hood) but my bumper had hardly a scratch (just a little crease). This is because the tire took the hit. There was no damage to the tire but the cover was ripped - the Accord owner replaced it. There was no damage or bending to the tire mount either. Maybe an even harder impact would do this but I can't imagine what kind of damage would be done without the spare. Maybe other owners have different experiences?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
(BTW htowncrv, can I assume that you are in Houston? "Space City" denizens of Town Hall are invited to join other CR-V owners for a visit to the Auto Show on 4/13 -- see CR-V Owners: Events for more.)
Carguy62: I vote for "engine." IMHO, the responsible software (it's supposed to be a software problem, right?) is an inseparable part of today's engines. What comes to mind when I think of "electrical" issues is the stuff leading away from the fuse box -- lights, radio, power locks, etc.
Hi mikecrv -- you know me as "CR-Vince" at you-know-where. I was "slugline" here before I knew what my next car would be. <GRIN>
or accelerate hard for the first 600 miles. regarding the oil i am not sure if they "factory" ship the vehicle with any special oil. I heard people talk about changing the oil after the first 1000 miles then at the regular timing period. As for me I would follow the manufacture instructions.
greetings from sunny Miami
i just remember that in the 80's subaru had the spare on top of the engine. i heard that was done because when the car crashed into the wall the engine would protrude into the cabin, but by bolting on the tire to the top of the engine it would send the engine down instead of straight back.
Change the oil at the recommended interval. Most folks have to follow the foul weather schedule. Do not change it earlier than that. If you absolutely must do something earlier than the recommended service, change the filter and keep the oil.
So I think I will wait until ~5000 miles.