Mazda6 Engine Problems

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  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 36
    I drive past Dworkin Mazda all the time and the buildings are empty. Too bad to a business that screwed me. And Mazda USA.... let them die as well. I've had 56 cars of which 7 were Mazdas. Great cars........Crappy company. Bye Bye Mazda.
  • how do i go about winning my case cause my engine has blown and they are saying that it's due to lack of maintenance in which i changed the oil myself. Can you give me all the information that you have to contact them myself. thanks

    april
  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 36
    I gave up trying to get Mazda to do the right thing and am compiling all this data to prove to them they have a systemic chronic problem with these cars and I want the money I paid to replace my Mazda's engine back.
  • ianmaticianmatic Posts: 10
    Question fo you guys: I have a 2009 Mazda 6 i with about 4000 miles on it. every time i start the car the engine idles at a relatively high rpm. after a bout a minute or two it drops down. Is this normal? whenever i shift in reverse at the higher rpm, the car shakes, whats the deal here? anyone else having this problem?
  • ausbossausboss Posts: 1
    I have an 2003 M6 and a 2004 M6. I have just loved the cars. I have now had to replace both engines from oil loss. The 2003 had a complete, sudden loss of oil that resulted from a cracked oil canister cap. The cracked cap showed what seems to be "wrench" marks where the failure was and also on the opposite side of the cap. The 2004 M6 also had a cap failure that allowed oil loss only while running until the oil was depleted and fatal engine damage occurred. Mazda appears to have a specialized oil cap socket that can be attached to a wrench to avoid oil cap damage. I am still investigating, but if this is true, Mazda needs to warn all Mazda owners. Changing the oil with out the use of this "oil cap socket" may be dangerous to the health of the engine. Anyone out there.... are you seeing what I am seeing?
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    This must be for the I4 with the canister filter, not the V6. I have the V6, and have not heard of any problems with any of the oil filters on that engine. I've used many different kinds of filters, and I usually just hand tighten it on my car.
    The only issue i've read about relating to oil loss was the PCV failing, causing rapid oil loss. That's why I check my oil level very frequently.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    my niece also has the same car and it has the same noises. So seems to be the norm for this 2.5L engine. I think they just did not spend enough time engineering it. it is based on the 2.3, so they probably increased the piston stroke, made it longer or something. but they did not balance it properly. Honestly it sometimes sounds like a diesel engine. It knocks at idle in park, the serpentine belt squeeks when idling in Drive, and the engine has a valve tapping or piston slap sound when accelerating at low rpm. I am going to mention it on my next service. But I do not want them to start messing with it. If enough of us complain about this, maybe they will issue a recall or something. But judging from this forum, Mazda does not seem to care much about their customers. Too bad it is such a nice looking car. My 10 year old Daewoo Leganza 2.2L engine still runs smoother and quieter with no valve or belt or piston noises than my brand new mazda6.
    But it seems to run fine once you drive it around 3000 rpms when accelerating, and it is a smooth cruiser, so might be not a serious issue. I now put the music on when I am at a drive thru, to avoid hearing it.
    Oh, well I have had better experiences with Korean cars before, and I do not think I will keep this one for more than the warranty period. Especially with that fragile oil canister system. It is a disaster waiting to happen. I heard that it can be changed to a normal system. If I end up keeping the car, I will look into changing it.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    There is nothing abnormal or fragile about a canister oil filter set-up. Many cars have that and my understanding is that it is an improvement over a "normal" spin-on oil filter.

    What makes you think the gasket of a spin on, the only thing keeping the oil in the engine, is not as much or more of a disaster waiting to happen?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    While I see your point, gaskets can fail too. But I think it is more likely I will notice a gasket leak because is usually fails gradually, abrupt failures for oil filter gaskets is really not common. While a PLASTIC cover canister can easily crack just from the aging effect if not from a rough mechanic. Heat and age will cause any plastic material to deteriorate. Does Mazda specify a replacement period for this canister cover? or they wait, since after the warranty period, if you lose your engine, they will make more money?
    I think it is a bad design because it has so many points of potential failure:
    1. Main O-ring
    2. Bottom plug O-ring
    3. Bottom plug torqued too much or too little.
    4. Canister cracking
    5. Canister torqued too much or too little.

    I think it is just a cheap ploy to keep you coming to a mazda dealer for service, at least while your warranty is effective, and after that, I am sure the canister has a pre-engineered life span where if you are not smart enough to replace it, and think it will live for the life of the car, you will end up paying for a new engine yourself.
  • scusimanscusiman Posts: 2
    Wow these all sound familiar. Some how my oil just disappeared. I changed it 2 weeks ago I checked again this weekend and poof, one blown motor.Of course I called Mazda and they have not heard of any problems like this before. Its kinda funny as I have a coworker who engine did the same thing. His was replaced around 38000 mile mine went bad at 55,000 miles. Both of us had no warning light, or any warning at all. I was told to take it to the dealer and they would take a look at it. I think I'm pretty much screwed. 5000 dollars that I don't have. They know its a problem. I guess they would rather cover it up than to do what is right. They will pay for it in the end
  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 36
    Well, include me in the Class Action Suit. I'm out thosands for my 2007 with 11,000 miles on it. Mazda refused to help me.
  • scusimanscusiman Posts: 2
    My car is 2006 same thing happened to me. Yesterday there was oil today it was gone. 55000 miles. Its in the shop now and I'm trying to get them to fix it.
  • Hey guys,

    I have found a used Mazda 6 2007 sedan sold by a private seller asking for 12800 with 12800 miles. The car is still under factory warranty. I would have a test drive. I have looked through the problem you have. After that, I am a little concern about mazda. But I have make an appointment with seller. So, could you give me any suggestion on test drive. thanks a lot.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Well I finally solved the mystery of the engine tapping sound after the car warms up when accelerating at low rpm (1200 rpm). Since this noise started happening immediately after my first oil change, I replaced the dealer installed oil with a quality oil (Valvoline 5W20), and behold, my engine is back to smooth even after it warms up, no more noticable tapping at low RPM. My theory is the crappy bulk oil being used by the dealerships (I tried 2 dealers) shears or thins out at high temp, and it is viscosity changes and is unable to provide the same lubrication to the upper engine (valvetrain). Since I do not get those noises when the oil is cold, that is the only explanation I can find. The valvoline oil seems to behave consistently well even after the car has warmed up.
    Now the question, what do I do now with this information. Mazda mechanic said Mazda would not honor warranty if I am doing my own oil changes. I am thinking of using their oil simply as an engine flush, and then draining it the moment I get back from their service shop and replace it with a quality oil. However should I be worried about any long term effects to my car since I already drove it about 10,000 kilometers on their crappy oil. Is there a way for me to prove easily their oil is bad such as an analysis by a third party that can give me written confirmation that the oil they are using is no good. Then I can take them to small claims court or something.
  • russ2003russ2003 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Mazda 6 4-cylinder automatic. A few days ago it started doing a couple of odd things. First, when slowing down (as to a stop light) the engine rpm SOMETIMES doesn't drop to idle as I approach the light. The engine wants to stay and around 1800 rpm and keep the car going. The brakes stop the car just fine, but the car wants to go. Second, when cruising at around 45 mph, the engine surges from 1800 rpm to 2200 rpm. It happens when in drive or in "manual" and also happens in cruise control. Third, twice the engine was REALLY trying to rev at a stop light. The second time it happened I put the car in neutral and the engine rev'ed to 3000 rpm so I shut off the engine. When I restarted it a minute later it acted just fine.

    I took it to the dealer today and they said there are no problem codes, and of course, it wouldn't do it for them.

    Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • rooney7rooney7 Posts: 2
    While driving my mazda 6 the horn randomly goes off in short three burst usually when i hit the brake or sometimes just randomly. does someone know what this is
  • rooney7rooney7 Posts: 2
    while driving my mazda6 it randomly makes a horn sound but not as loud in a three set burst people think im beeping at them anyone know what this is
  • russ2003russ2003 Posts: 2
    I took the car to the dealership to determine what the problem is with the surging. The good news is that they re-flashed the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the problem hasn't recurred.
  • willis6willis6 Posts: 1
    my daughter has had the same problem. She is on her second engine. Not that many miles. we are trying to build a case that this engine is a real lemon. Can you send additional information. We are taking this issue to the head of the mazda company. Just email when you get a chance. thanks and hope things worked out better for you.

    Thank you
  • cpf1cpf1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Mazda6, 70K miles, well maintained and driven normally by single owner. It developed engine performance problems and dealer replaced two cat converters under emissions warranty. Engine performance improved but not nearly to normal level and it is tapping and clunking. Dealer claims that engine now needs $600 diagnostic teardown with the likely result being need for a new engine. Any thoughts or expeience on this one?
  • My 2006 Mazda 6 with 81k decided to blow up in July. I have perfect engine maintenance. I do not understand it. The dealerships just shake their heads. They must know that these cars are crap. Class action lawsuit is the only answer.
  • My engine recently blew up. It only cost $105 for the diagnosis. New engine will be $6500. A used engine is around $1500, plus shipping. I am looking for how much it would cost to put the used engine in.
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    Are we talking 4cyl or 6cyl engines? Both?
  • i have a 2005 mazda 6 2.3l and its being torn apart right now by the dealership.about a month ago i noticed a tapping noise coming from the motor. luckily im still covered under warranty.so with this in mind i brought it there and to my surprise they tell me i need a new engine. but they tell me if they find sludge i have to pay the tear down fee of $380. they called me back today and said they didnt find anything so now i have to wait another day for an inspector to decide my fate.now after all this they didnt even offer a courtesy vehicle.not that i need it but how f in rude are these people?i guess if it doesnt benefit them it doesnt matter
  • Mazda people are highly trained to screw you at this point. Caution.
  • When I had some problems with my 04', I found the dealer that I had service with to be very helpful and nice. They offered me either a ride home or a rental car every time. They fixed everything right, and if they didn't, they told me to bring it right back. They were definitely the best service dealer I've ever had with any vehicle I've owned. Maybe I'm not the norm, but not all of them are a bunch of ***holes.
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    It sounds like you don't get regular service done at the dealer, maybe this is your one and only Mazda. Maybe these things shouldn't matter, but they often do, especially when time are tough. I have had every oil change on my '05 6i done at the same dealer, and its never cost more than $30. Of course there's no guarantee they would go to bat for me if the engine should go bad, but there's more incentive. Mazda may not care form the big picture perspective, but the dealer lives and dies on regular customers, one at a time.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    "I found the dealer that I had service with to be very helpful and nice..."

    Yeah, similar experience with Mazda dealer here. My understanding is Mazda (the mfr, not dealer) pays for the rental car during the warranty period, so not sure why any dealer would not provide that. They have even given me a car even to just diagnose whether or not there was a need for warranty work...when I thought something might be a problem.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    In order to maintain your warranty, simply bring your own oil to the dealership. If you're satisfied with the Valvoline oil then bring it to the Mazda dealership and have them change the oil with the oil supplied to them. I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that I have serviced at a Chrysler dealership. I supply them with Mobil 1 synthetic oil. They have no qualms changing the oil for me with the oil that I supply them. Good luck.
  • cpf1cpf1 Posts: 2
    I started this thread. I resolved it this way. I asked Mazda to offer me a fair trade in value on my car, and in turn I would lease a Mazda3 from them. Best they could do for me was 2K. The local Honda dealer offered $3600 and I now have a Civic.
  • So, my 2004 Mazda6 3.0L engine died a week ago, at 63K miles. Diagnosis at my mechanic - rod knock/bottom end failure. There was still oil in the engine.

    Oil was changed regularly (typically 3-4K intervals, never more than 4.5K), with the 3rd oil change by 6200 miles. I would check it in between, but it was never more than a half quart low.

    So getting on the highway about 2 weeks ago, I got this awful noise, the check engine light came on, and I headed to the mechanic. A few miles later, the oil light came on, and I pulled over and had it towed the rest of the way.

    Mazda hasn't inspected it yet, and despite my going in to talk to the service manager at Wayne Mazda (NJ), he hasn't gotten back to me in several days with regards to results of any contact with the Regional Manager. (He was supposed to send him the maintenance records I brought in.)

    I can understand an occasional fluke engine failure, but from reading this forum, it seems a little higher than I'd like to hear about, though much of it (but definitely not all) appears to be with the 4 cylinder.

    Hopefully, they'll do the right thing in my case. It sounds like I shouldn't hold my breath though.

    Dan
  • yscheysche Posts: 1
    I have an '05 Mazda6 as well, took it into the dealer, b/c of a ticking noise when I accelerate, and they said the same thing. Its got a rod knock, and its got engine sludge, and I need a new engine.

    What did you end up doing?
    I haven't decided yet, but some things I am considering are
    1) Trying engine oil additives that claim to get rid of knocking and sludge
    2) Engine oil flush
    3) look online for a used engine, and get a local shop to install it

    Please let me know if there is a good cheap solution
  • the motor just totally locked up after driving slow around back roads the motor just stopped wouldnt start again i killed the batery trying to start it.Had it towed the local mazda dealer they said motor is locked up could have been caused of exsessive reving BS i was driving very slow still had oil and coolant? another shop is replacing the motor for me.Then im goin to try to sell it O ya most important had only 66,000 miles very nice and sporty car but have some issues with the 3.0 motors with low end knocking around 60,000 miles
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I made a few more observations regarding the slight knock at idle that I am getting.
    The knock intensity varies from day to day. On humid and rainy days it is almost eliminated completely. The drier the weather the more pronounced it is.
    Also as you step on the gas it disappears, so to me this means it is not related to any real malfunction in the car such as bad bearings or valves or anything of the sort. I think it is basically a fuel combustion issue. It is what is called detonation, and I know that moisture (Water vapor) reduces detonation. The reason might be fuel injector related, spark plug related, or simply because the car is tuned by Mazda to run too lean at idle. This means not enough gas is being pumped into the engine at low rpm.
    Now I plan to replace the plugs, but is there also a way I can somehow increase the fuel delivery at idle, such as a fuel pressure regulator, or is it all controlled by the ECU these days?
  • We just got similar news (that I'm now learning to be quite common) ... our '07 Mazda 6 (4 cyl) apparently needs a new engine. We are very diligent about taking our cars in for regular service as one of us has a fairly long commute to work (want to keep the cars in good condition). He heard a rattling on the weekend, took the car in first thing this morning and was told there was no oil in it and we need a new engine! I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how there was NO oil in it and how this could have happened ... unless there was faulty service on the last visit or the engine was faulty. Would be happy to hear how other people have handled similar situations ... I just don't see the dealership taking any responsibility for this. Frustrated!!
  • I'm an Engineer and a Mechanic. My Mazda was getting perfect maint. and when the engine died at 11,000 miles Mazda crapped all over me. They clearly have a systemic problem they are hiding from. I fixed my own for $1200. $4000.00 less than Mazda quoted me. Avoid Mazda until this is resolved. They are acting like an american car company. How awful of them to do.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I made a few more observations regarding the slight knock at idle that I am getting.
    The knock intensity varies from day to day. On humid and rainy days it is almost eliminated completely. The drier the weather the more pronounced it is.


    That might be the purge valve, not engine knock. That is why it goes away when you step on the gas. If it was rod knock, you would still hear it. There should be nothing wrong.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I'm an Engineer and a Mechanic. My Mazda was getting perfect maint. and when the engine died at 11,000 miles Mazda crapped all over me

    I'm assuming you showed them proof of maintenance, right?
  • I will rarely read 11 pages of post on any forum but I had to for the tapping noise that I have with my 04 6 V6.
    I owned a 2004 6 wagon before and I did not have any problems. Traded it in for something bigger.
    I needed another car and bought another 6 wagon. It has a tapping noise when I accelerate around 3500 rpm. No noise in park. Only under a load. Sounds like detonation or misfire to me but no error code for misfire.
    So far I have been lead to check the following
    Air valve, coil, spark plugs, belt tensioner, and pvc.
    After reading this forum I am concerned about my worst fear, spin or otherwise defective rod bearings.
    I did change the plugs but no change. I also used a higher octane gas but I am not sure if it got better. It still does it but it doesnt seem to be as bad. I will try 91 octane next tank. To relace the rest of the items will cost me around $400 to do it myself. I would hate to spend that money only to pay even more for an engine.
    Does anyone know what other cars I can pull the block from? I was wondering why every mazda 6 in the wreck yards had the engine missing. Now I know.
    This car is out of warrenty with 127k miles on it. I was also wondering why the asking price was $8k but they went down to $4500. I knew the engine may have some issues but didnt think it would be this bad. Even if I buy a reman engine I will still have paid less than book value. I am going to keep this car because I like it. I will figure out the engine issues. I just wish there was more information. I cant get any definitive answers. Replaceing the engine with out the root cause does not help me.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    According to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratec_engine#Duratec_30

    That V6 was used by Mazda in the MPV, but there are probably not too many of those around. I've no idea if it is possible, but if one from a Taurus would work, I'd guess there would be a lot more of those around.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    That V6 was used by Mazda in the MPV, but there are probably not too many of those around. I've no idea if it is possible, but if one from a Taurus would work, I'd guess there would be a lot more of those around.

    The engines are not totally the same.

    The block is the same, but, I believe they have different heads and the induction system is totally different. The MPV engines typically lasted longer.

    I just had a discussion with my service manager about the differences between the engines. He assured me they are not the same.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Not that I have any answers, but in his question did "block" mean the entire engine?

    If he meant "block" to exclude the head, could he use the MPV engine block or even one from a Taurus?
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Not that I have any answers, but in his question did "block" mean the entire engine?

    If he meant "block" to exclude the head, could he use the MPV engine block or even one from a Taurus?


    I must have missed that.

    I think you can use a block from a Taurus. I know you can use one from an MPV.
  • Yes. Just the block. The issues that I am concerned about have to do with the rod and bearings. The majority of the rest of the engine are somewhat consumable. If not consumable can be removed and worked on. I can take the heads off and rebuild them. The block on the other hand has to be removed if you need to do some machine work or get the torques correct on the rod and main bolts.
    I have access to MVP engines and the taurus engines have to be from the SE and SEL which are still available but not as abundant as the Vulcan engine.
  • I'm posting this to help all those who have been blowing their Mazda engines. Replace your PCV valve!!!!! Do it as a maintenance item every 30k miles or so. This is a well known problem with the Mazda 6. The PCV gets clogged and then the engine burns oil quickly, and then the engine blows. A new PCV valve is approximately $5, and takes all of 10 minutes to replace. Also, make sure there are no kinks in the PCV hose. I have a 2004 Mazda 6 3.0 with 95,000 miles and have had 0 issues. I replaced the PCV at 65,000 miles along with the spark plugs. Maintain your Mazda and you won't have issues. Also, it is a good idea to check your oil at least once a week. Pop the hood and check the oil, takes all of 30 seconds to do. And if you hear knocking and your low on oil, DONT drive to the mechanic. STOP driving immediately or you are guaranteed to blow the engine. I would bet that the $5 PCV is the cause of the majority of the blown engines listed on this site.
  • P0302 is a misfire on cylinder 2. I would bet the house that you need a tune-up. Let me guess, your spark plugs and coils are original? You probably had to replace the 02 sensor because the car is running rich and fouled the sensor. Get a tune-up and actually maintain your car!!!!
  • I recently ( last week) purchased a used 2004 Mazda 6 sedan with the 4-cylinder (I-4) engine. The used car dealer used 10w30 oil during oil changes, while the engine cover says it needs 5w20 oil.
    I have been hearing this tapping noise from day 1. I have been reading the Mazda posts on this issue and on the problem of oil leaking out, leading to blown engines. Anyone have any guidance for a Mazda newbie like me? Would changing the PCV valve help in general maintenance?

    Thanks,
    dan
  • The slight tapping was the first sign on my Mazda 6. We did extra oil changes and still at 11,000 miles it threw a rod and Mazda left us flat cold. My suggestion is try to return the car to whom ever you bought it from. I had 5 Miata that had slight tapping for 100,000 miles with no problems.
  • I'd first switch out back to 5w-20 oil at the next oil change (you may also consider switching to synthetic), then replace the PCV valve. After that, you'll be fine.

    If you're still concerned, make it a habit of checking your oil once per week, and top it off when it's necessary. Checking the oil (as well as coolant level and tire pressure) at regular intervals is still a good practice, because modern engines can lose oil just as easily as a 20-year-old engine, for any reason. Any "expert" that says otherwise is blowing smoke.

    And a general note: Despite the posts on this thread, remember they are simply a small fraction of the total Mazda6 owners from 2003 to the present. I know of literally hundreds of owners from this and other forums with models with well over 100K miles with NO engine problems (or any other issues, for that matter), 4-cylinder or V6. I personally have 88K miles on my '04, and have replaced the PCV valve once, and maybe added a TOTAL of 2 quarts between oil changes, which is well within reasonable limits for ANY engine.
  • Thanks mz6greyghost for your prompt reply.....just wanted to know one thing?
    If you use synthetic oil, would you change it less frequently because it doesn"t break down as quickly as regular oil....

    thanks,
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