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If the keys chip is damaged or you are using a copy with out the chip the engine will shut down.
If you have two keys try the other one.
Good luck.
I have read all of the posts just to make sure this hasn't been covered, and I didn't see it, so here goes:
I have a 2004 Wrangler X (6cyl) with 55K miles.
For a bit now, it has had a big problem starting. Meaning that I put the key in the ignition press the clutch all the way to the floor, and pray. It tries really hard to start and takes about 7-10 seconds to actually start. When it does finally turn over and start it smells like gas. Kinda like in the old days when you would press the gas to start your car and it would flood the engine. Except I do know the difference between the gas and the clutch. I've taken it to my mechanic and he has hooked it up to all of the diagnostic units that he has, and can't find anything wrong.
I really don't like the way I was treated the last time I went to my dealer for new lug nuts, so I would rather not hand over any cash to them what-so-ever.
Also, this morning when it finally turned over and started the engine light was on, so I drove it the 50 miles to my mechanic, he told me there had been a misfire on cylinder 6, so he replaced the spark plugs (plus gave me an oil change since I would be due in 150 miles anyway)
Sorry that this is so long but I'm kind of bummed. I love my Jeep. I put a lot of miles on it maybe that's the problem who knows.
Any help would be fantastic!
Last week the engine was spewing cooland ALL over the place. It looked like Niagara coming from the block. I thought I was doomed and had cracked a head. The next day the mechanic called me up and told me it was the freeze plugs, which made me smile. Either way, he says he had to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds to cleanly get at the plugs in order to replace them ($320). Next we did the front axle seals ($220) and the differential service ($200). Add to that the $600 in new tires i bought last weekend and I'm up to $1300 for the week into my beloved jungle fighter...he is happy, and so am i. While I was at it, I asked my mechanic to throw in some fresh Mobil 1 and give the engine a good cleaning, inside and out. BTW, my mechanic's shop is soooo clean you can sit on the floor and have a sandwich...and feel comfortable enough to pick the loose shards of lettuce off the shop floor...and eat them. A real treat. Anyway, now that I've poured almost 2 grand into the jeep this month alone, I'm ready for a few more upgrades as well as maintenance items. Can anyone suggest other things I should be doing to the Jeep to keep it running as well as it has for the last 10 years (almost).
1998 Jeep Sahara
73,000 miles
warn 8000 winch
BFG AT 32x11.5R15 (and they fit nice!!!)
Miami, FL (i.e. North Cuba) :P
Take them off.
Throw them away.
Sounds like these tires have been over inflated.
...happens sometimes when the tires are being mounted.
If the installer is having trouble seating the beads they might bump the air pressure inorder to force the bead into the groove on the rim.
This excessive pressure can strech the tires and ruin them.
Rims should always be cleaned before new tires are mounted. This is almost never done.
If your tire man will not take this step have him remove the tires from the rims and let you clean them up and then let him mount and balance the tires.
The lazy way around cleaning the rims is to seat them with higher pressure.
Using starting fluid (diethyl ether and other things that go boom) is another way to ruin your tires.
But that is another story.
Are your new tires the same size as the old ones?
Is the tread more aggresive?
One way to check the tires for damage is to deflate them as it is easier to check sidewall damage on a deflated tire.
Good luck rattle on.
Thanks in advance!! Terry and Leeann
The blend door is positioned electrically by a small motor. Your issue could either be with the switch, wiring, or motor, or it could be a problem with the door physically sticking.
Now to my Defroster problem. When I have the defroster on the lowest blower level it works perfect if I switch it to any higher level I hear a popping noise and it switches from the defroster to the floor.
In regard to the transmission problem, unless the mechanic opened the transmission itself, there's no direct connection between the flywheel/clutch/bearing and third gear. Unless the shift lever is hitting something, the problem will be internal and most likely synchromesh, though there are other possibilities. The issue of poor t/c shifting probably is connected with the transmission r&r and should be curable by adjustment.
(...a puddle of fluid on the passengers side floor, below the hearer core...the sweet smell of ethylene glycol...or your windows fogging up on the inside when you defrost...)
There is a thing you can check is the gaskets (O-rings) between the radiator core and the end caps.
Every time your vehicle is warmed-up and cooled-down the aluminum radiator core expands and contracts eventually this will start to leak.
This phenomenon seems to occur most often in the winter. Go-figger...
Replacing these gaskets is not rocket science it just takes a flat blade screwdriver and a pair of channel-locks.
A couple or twenty-four refreshing beverages is also a good thing to have around.
If you have a friend who likes to help don't invite him over 'til your done.
Before you tear you whole Jeep apart you might just have the cooling system pressure tested.
Good luck,
B-U
It is better to brag about your success than to have your failures witnessed.
You might have given your no longer in business mechanic a pile of parts and a pile of money for nothing.
Bet he took your money and sold the parts back to the store.
Hello boys and girls.
Welcome to the neghiborhood...
"Can you say, Ripped me off."
A new clutch does not need a break in period, but if you are planning on leaving town that's a good stall tactic.
I suppose it's possible that the recently departed mechanic switched transmissions, but that presupposes he just happened to have a suitable unit laying around.
This sounds far more like an unfortunate coincidence for seb135, though it would certainly pay to check the oil level in that transmission before having it pulled.
A perfect example of an excuse to treat yourself to a few new tools.
It's not at all unusual to have to connect three or four extensions together, maybe adding 'u' joints or wobble drives. Sometimes things are more accessible from below even though it would initially seem to be more obvious to go in from above.
I think the last time I did that job I lowered an air ratchet down on it's hose, fiddled it's socket into place with a long screwdriver, then was just able to operate the ratchet with my fingertips. However, there's always a way. One other tip is to use 3/8" or 1/4" drive tools, rather than 1/2". It's surprising how strong they can be, and if they should break............well, that's why you should always buy tools with a lifetime warranty.
Finally, please don't use all caps. It's hard to read and implies that you're SHOUTING! :mad:
There is supposed to be a clip that holds this together.
They were not installed on a lot of Jeeps.
This can be reached by standing outside the drivers door and reaching up under the dash. If you operate the heater control between defrost and floor heat you can feel the shaft move.
You can usually just push the lever back on the shaft and it will stay on and your diverter will work fine until the temp and wind chill drops to -10 or the rain is horizontal.
The clip is cheep and your friendly Chrysler Jeep Dealer should be more than happy to install it for you.
Should be done free by the friendly Dodge Boys.
ALL CAPS IS OK.
I THINK jeeper3 MIGHT JUST TALK LOUD.
THIS IS A THING THAT HAPPENS TO OLD JEEP GUYS WHO DRIVE AROUND WITH THERE CANVAS TOPS FLAPPING.
Oops, sorry didn't mean to yell at you. ':}
Burntup
Chrysler (TJ) Jeep Wrangler - Clutch pedal pushrod
Date: 31/10/2006
Supplier Name: DaimlerChrysler Australia/Pacific Pty Ltd
Product Make: Jeep
Product Model: (TJ) Wrangler
Target Number: 79
Model Years From: 2006
Consequences:
Campaign Number: RC F22
VIN Range:
Serial Range:
Product Info: This recall applies only to the above vehicles equipped with a manual transmission built from 3 November 2005 through 13 February 2006.
Defect Details: The clutch pedal pushrod on a number of vehicles may break and allow clutch engagement when the pedal is depressed. This can increase the vehicle's stopping distance and/or cause engine stalling.
Consumer action: Contact any authorised Chrysler Jeep Dealership to have the replacement carried out as soon as possible. If you have sold the vehicle please contact DaimlerChrysler on phone number 03 9566 9380, fax number 03 9566 6223 or via e-mail: renee.boyd@daimlerchrysler.com
I contacted the dealer where I purchased my Jeep and he said mine was made in October 2005 and a VIN search found that mine was not subject to any recall. He stated that it may have been a problem with a "batch" built during the time period listed above. Odd that one month would make any difference. Did they change the part after October I wonder or will mine be on the list at a later date? I have around 6,500 mi. on mine since March 2006. I have been "laid" up and have not put many miles on it in the last year
Sometimes I think that Jeep/Chrysler only recalls the vehicles that they are required to and not all the vehicle that they should. I think they work on the same cost/benefit, risk v. profit, pay-out on a lawsuit v. cost of recall theory as Ford Motor Company.
Remember the Exploding Pintos, Crown Vicky Fire-bombs, and the Roll-Over-Explorers.
Back to Jeep there was a recall on the heaters on the Jeep Wranglers. Mine was not included (outside the Serial Number Range) even though it had all the problems of the recall.
It was only one month newer than the ones recalled.
Jeep Customer Service said that second owners are not eligible to benefit of some recalls. ...weird huh???
By the way, Do you fly?
BurntUp
7" of lift & Swampers
13 MPG IS NOT NORMAL...
its a miracle!!!
The JEEP GODs must love you.
I only fly enough to keep my license. Good luck.
Second, are you driving on a hard surface, or are you off-road in loose dirt or gravel?
Why not ask the dealer for an explanation as to why they need replacing?
As the radiator has been replaced and the same leak remains, you can probably rule it out for the moment. If one of the hoses is leaking to the extent that it's spraying all over the engine and hood, it ought to be fairly obvious.
However, a water pump leak can be a little more tricky to spot. There is a hole on the underneath of the pump to allow coolant to escape if the shaft seal starts to leak. The reason for the hole is two-fold. First, it serves as a visual indicator of the problem. Second, it helps prevent the leaking coolant from reaching the bearing and causing the pump to seize. If the leak is small you need a small mirror to spot it, but if it's large the leaking coolant will get thrown all over the place by the fan, which may be the cause of your problem.
I was driving my 97 Jeep wrangler home from work today. turned a corner to accelatrate and then I heard the loudest bang, sounded like a gun shot. I quickly pulled over to check the car. everything seemed fine. I started the car again put it into drive and it just rolled back. car sounded fine but it just kept rolling back. it would rev heaps but not move. Had to get it towed. I have had a small transmission and engine oil leak but i top them up regulary as i cannot afford the to repair the leaks. I may have learnt my lesson the hard way. does anyone on here know what that loud bang could have possibly been? what costs im looking at for it to be repaired?
thanks heaps
Jason
Maybe something let go in the diff.
Second place to look would be the transfer case.
However, if you've broken something in the transmission.................. :sick:
The dash board and the radio died yesterday.
They all quit at the same time. Nothing smells hot, no smoke, no fire.
All of the gauges quit. (oil press, water temp, amps and fuel level)
The speedo & tach are dead. Odometer too.
The radio is also dead.
Checked all the fuses. OK
I have pulled the radio and checked all the wires and connections. OK
Pulled the dash unit and checked the connections and ground wire. OK
All the wires from the ign. switch look OK too.
I am stumped...
Any ideas. ????
The positive side of the power distribution starts at the battery. From there it goes first to the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and then on to the rest of the vehicle, either directly or via the fuse block behind the passenger glove box.
You've obviously lost power to several circuits at once, so you need to find a feed source that common to all. I can only guess but I suspect the PDC or something close to it. This is where your multimeter comes in. Just because a fuse hasn't blown doesn't mean that power is reaching it. Trace the flow through the PDC and onward until you come to the stopping point.
THANKS
Faulty transfer case, different size tires on front and rear axles, different gearing on front and rear axles.
Two and three are easy to check yourself (there are some fairly recent posts on checking axle ratios, don't just go by the tag in your case).
You've fixed the IAC issue so now you need to look at the battery, battery connections, and alternator output.
Poor or no idle is a common symptom of low voltage. Unless it's new, or tests perfectly, I'd make the battery the prime suspect.