I had a bad fuel injector at about 5,000 miles. The dealer replaced the bad injector, flushed all of the other injectors, put a bottle of Techron in the tank, told me to use only Chevron gas. Since then, no problems. No Silverado shake, rattle or roll.
Drove the v-6 ext cab, short bed this weekend. Not bad. Here's the problem - even though they say it's available, try to find an LS with v-6 extended & short bed. I live in Phoenix and can't find one in the whole danged valley. Still looking. May have to go with the 4.8L. Went to the largest dealer here and they didn't even have a 4.8 in white with tan! White!!! BTW, I don't think you can get the 3.08 rear anymore. Drove the 3.42 and it was fine. Like I said, I'll never pull anything that I can't buy from the local home improvement store. May have to buy the Dakota Quad
My y2k Silverado had the creak/clunk coming from the steering wheel that many of you talked about. You guys put me onto the TSB calling for replacement of the intermediate steering shaft...so I thought I'd post my fix.
I just put some oil down the intermediate shaft (from inside the cab). Problem gone. Right at the firewall, there is a machined (about 1/2 inch) shaft going into a sleeve. Just a little oil down there fixed it.
My symptoms were:
Noticeable stick/slip creak audible and felt in the steering wheel going over bumps at low speed and when stopping and starting out. This is not the transfer case "clunk" which I also had and fixed with new blue AutoTrakII fluid.
I just fixed the throttle sticking problem that so many of us have. I simply turned the idle speed screw ½ to ¾ of a turn (clockwise of course). This action is now preventing the trottle plate to stick to the throttle body.This will also rise the idle RPM from 500 to 525 which is almost unnoticeable.
Good work. Let us know if the problem returns. Maybe you could make a few bucks letting GM know of your fix. Cause GM will do ANYTHING to save money....and a couple drops of oil is way cheaper than replacing the shaft.
In the TSB regarding the throttle plate sticking, GM specifically states DO NOT attempt to alleviate the sticking problem by adjusting the base adjustment.
Obyone, do you still have that TSB? If I can find it I will post it.
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)
This bulletin is being revised to include instructions on reading the Date Code, and added text on which Throttle Body Assemblies to replace. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-007A (Section 04 -- Engine Controls).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.
Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.
Correction
Notice
DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced Idle Air Control valve durability.
1.Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
FIGURE Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification(c)
(1) Location of last 5 digits of Throttle Body Assembly Part Number (2) Location of 4 digit Julian Date Code (3) Throttle Body Assembly
2.Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange. The Julian date code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge, on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification. 3.If the Date Code is 2979 , or earlier (Indicating the Throttle Body was built before the 297th day of 1999): DO NOT clean the Throttle Body Assembly. Replace the Throttle Body Assembly using the Service Manual procedure. DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Body Assemblies.
Notice
All 1999 models whose Throttle Body has not been replaced will have a date code prior to 2979 and should be replaced for this condition.
Reading The Date Code
The four digit Date Code can be interpreted as follows:
Example -- Date Code 2979
1.The first 3 digits (297) represent the calendar Julian date. 297 = the 297th day of the calendar year. 2.The last digit (9) represents the last digit of the year. 8 = the year 1998 9 = the year 1999 0 = the year 2000 1 = the year 2001
Parts Information
Model Year Part Number Description 1999 17113597 Throttle Body, 4.8 L V8 w/Manual Transmission 1999 17113583 Throttle Body, 4.8 L and 5.3 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission 1999 17113558 Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission 1999 17113599 Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Manual Transmission 2000 17113639 Throttle Body, 4.8 L V8 w/Manual Transmission 2000 17113665 Throttle Body, 4.8 L and 5.3 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission and w/o Traction Control 2000 17113640 Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Manual Transmission 2000 17113652 Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission and w/o Traction Control 1999, 2000 17113561 Seal, Throttle body (not shown)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time J5485 Throttle Body - R&R Use Published Labor Time J5490 Throttle Body Replace Use Published Labor Time
I think that GM made a mistake and they are to proud to admit that there is a simple solution to it. I drove my truck all day and the throttle sticking was completly gone. So...... By the way the RPM was exactly the same as before: 500
I don't see any other "driveability concerns"....
(Don't be to hard about my writing, I'm french canadian!!!)
Finally found one of these. The more I look, the rarer I'm discovering they are. Anyway, the price before TT&L is $22,500. This seems pretty steep to me for a V-6 truck. I priced the Dodge Dakota Quad cab with V8 for $20K. What's the point? Seems like they're trying to kill me on the purchase and when I'd go to sell it, I'd get popped for having a V6. Unless I missed something somewhere, that seems like a double whammy! And if the V6 is the standard engine, why is it so stinking hard to find? Yeh, yeh, I understand the marketing machine and not many of you want a V6. I get it. Maybe I'll just do nothing and continue saving my pennies. Just rambling...
for a second to buy the 4.8 if the truck was what I wanted in all other areas. Much more power and hardly any diff. in economy. I wouldn't buy an X-Cab with a V-6. On the level it's fine, but you really notice the lack of power when you come to a hill. I still had to listen to the "it should'a had a V-8" crap when I traded my 4.8, only it was "if only it was the 5.3"!
It is with great pleasure that I announce the end of my lease on this 99 Ext cab 4X4 5.3 piece of sh--. The steering rattle problem is handled by replacing the steering sector shaft. Had this done twice and it was starting to clatter again before I turned it in. My tailgate quit latching about 4 months ago so I just tied it shut. Had 4 drive shafts to fix the vibration, but none helped. The clunking from 2nd to 3rd was upsetting, but again no fixes. Windows stuck in the down position, but fixed with a new switch unit. Dealer quit giving me free rentals (GM quit re-imbursing them and I understand why), so when I returned it I gave them the stack of re-call notices as well. I can't believe Chevrolet can get by with producing such a product, but worse yet, people wait in line to buy them. This experience convinced me to go back to foreign cars and trucks. It will be a long time before I ever buy another GM vehicle.
It was scary when it just stalled from a stop as the transmission would not engage right away with on coming traffic. I had 2 close calls here, but it only happened about 5 times, and never of course when I had it in to check.
The anti-lock brakes don't work, but I felt safe with the Firestone Wilderness AT's! Did I mention that when I downshifted at about 60 mph, it went into 2nd gear instead of 3rd. I was going to lemon law this thing, but the dealer told me they all ran like mine. Really?
Just wanted to vent a little, but it really is nice getting rid of this truck. I even returned it 1 month early. I feel sorry for the person that buys this. Probably some young guy who's paycheck will mostly go toward this vehicle. Beware, it is gray, coming out of Minnesota. Service records are so long that they will have to wholesale to another dealer. My brother just picked up his new Tahoe and had transmission problems driving it home. I warned him.
Sorry you feel that way. There's a popular wisdom my family subscribes to. "Don't buy the first or second year of any model." There's no better test than time.
It is possible, at least in the state of Wisconsin to file for the Lemon Law on a leased vehicle. Check with the Better Business Bureau to be sure in your state.
Your lean was similar to mine. They believe the frame was bent by the tie downs. The service manager has been kind enough to work with me in pursuing a buyback. Still love the Silverado's. Plan on getting a 2002 if the buy back works.
Go to "lotsofwheels.com/sale.htm", they have a new Sierra SLE Extended cab w/V-8, PW, PL, A/C, AT, etc. for 19,999. About a month ago they had a Sierra SL Extended Cab w/V-8, AT and A/C for 16,999. These prices are after the rebates, but if you have a GM Card rebate built up you could deduct that too. It gives the 800 number and how to contact them. I definitely wouldn't pay $20,000 for a V-6 Silverado/Sierra. Ken
I just took a Chevy dealer service tech for a ride in my "Rock & Rollin'" HD, he hasn't experienced this exact problem with the HDs but he's had this happen in other vehicle... he thinks it's the slip yoke! THe one on my HD is sealed, he thinks it was shipped ungreased from the factory and isn't allowing the drive shaft to travel back and forth with the road and it binding cause the little surges when the rear end binds up. That may also be causing the "popping" noise from the springs.
He said if it IS a dry slip yoke, it will become obvious at some point when the vibration rips out the carrier bearing and your drive shaft, universal joints, bearings and maybe even your rear axle is scattered in the street.
Too bad this guy can only work on Chevy's, I told him that if my dealer couldn't fix my GMC, I'd lemon law it and come buy a Chevy from him!
I have an appointment with the owner of the dealership where I've been trying to get this thing fixed. Maybe this will encourage them to do something.
Anyone esle have an idea about this proposed solution???
Has anyone experienced poor or non existent power steering when parking (at idle normal turns) ? My Silverado looses all power steering in this situation, very irritating when parking or spotting a trailer. I have looked through on-line TSB's and harassed my dealer with no success.
Thanks for the tip etimbers. I am going through the same thing and the dealer says it is a truck and should ride like that. A friend at a local tire shop asked me to leave it for a day so as to test it. They called 20mins later and said "your right" this thing shakes more than Elvis. They are suggesting removing the largest spring in the rear( the big FAT one that makes it a HD). We are gonna call GM in the morning to see if that voids the warranty. If it does and I can't get it fixed does anyone have any suggestions on taking it back or buy back etc. It has 3500miles after 3 months.
Sounds like the power steering pump. Had the same problem in a 99 Blazer. Dealer replaced pump and problem went away. Truck had about 25k miles. Dealer said he had done about 15 of them in the last few months. You would think GM would know how to make a pump by now.
I finally figured out my annoying squeak is the black plastic cover of the Roll Top canister rubbing aginst the top of the bed wall. Plastic/paint contact.
Not sure how to stop it, other than lube. Think maybe a piece of rubber wedged in there might work also.
Yeah I would tend to agree, especially since I just had our 2000 Monte Carlo SS, fresh out of warantee dump the PS pump, howeve rdealers being dealers they want ot see a TSB before the will do their part replacing work. What happened to mechanics?
It IS a Pace Edwards! I tightened the screws on the cover, but still have to find a solution for the contact.
Seriously thinking about carving off an 1/8 inch along the front edge except for the corners to create some tolerance. Not sure I can do it neatly though.... !
Excellent. I take it you also had concerns with the small tolerance/contact. I haven't had time to take the cover off, but it looks like it's just there for appearance and to help keep some weather out. Don't have a dremel, but there are a lot of other things in the garage...!
on the front section of the bed as most of the water used to come in that way. Now the only water that gets in is at the corners of the tailgate which isn't much.
I tried the oil/lubrication trick you suggested and it seemed to work for me (used some 3-in-1 oil). The wierd feeling in the steering on turns and bumps seems to have gone away for now. Thanks for the suggestion.
How about some 3M rubber tape between the cover & bed. If you can find some at your local accessory store, it is clear and comes in various widths & thicknesses. Invisible for the most part. -Eric
I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD 4X4. When the truck reaches 80 miles an hour an extremly loud squeal/vibration occurs. It will happen doing 60mph if you are heading into a 20mph head wind. It sounds like someone blowing into the mouth piece of a clarinet reed. It is louder than the truck horn. Any Ideas, sounds like it is coming from the top of the truck!!!!!!!!!!! thanks tommy
Have you read of any solution or tsb on the 6.0L hesitation/stumble at low rpm? I've read several post here and on other boards about the problem, but nothing about any solutions. TIA Tom
Sounds like your window seal. Many have complained about this. Seems the windshield seal needs to be resealed. Oby has posted a TSB for this a few times I believe. Take it to the dealer & they will perform the famous duct tape diagnostic test. -Eric
Haven't seen anything on the problem you're describing although I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. We checked the plugs and wires. Reprogram with HPIII. Still had the hesitation. Had used 1 bottle of that Chevron stuff and no difference. Added two more bottles and it seemed to have cleared up. Foul injectors?
My truck is 1 year old and has done this since new. Going in to the shop for service soon, and this is one of the things on my list to have the dealership address. Seems to be a common problem with the 6.0L from what I've read. Because it has done this since the day I bought it, don't see how it could be the injectors, but maybe it is. Thank you for your help. Tom
My '01 2500 extended cab 4x4 is only (3) weeks old. It has replaced a long line of wonderful K1500 trucks including a '90, '94, '96, and most recently a '97. With the 2500, I stepped up to the 6.0L with the 4-speed automatic and 3.73 gears. All in all, it's a really nice truck. But, it really shakes from 40 MPH up to 60 MPH!!! It is especially noticeable on newly paved, smooth roads. I first blamed it on the 265/75/R16 BF Goodrich AT TAs that seemed to require an excessive amount of weight to balance. Little did I know that this was actually a used set of tires that were likely removed from a new Avalanche. Anyway, all of my previous trucks had BFG ATs. These tires are great for all around traction, appearance, and wear. In fact, I'm happy to report that I got over 70,000 miles out of my last set!
Back to my story: After demanding my original equipment, wimpy 245/75/R16 Firestones back, I set out to find another, more reputable tire dealer for a "new" set of BFG ATs. Unfortunately, the vehicle still had an unacceptable amount of shake with the factory tire/wheel combo. And, since I haven't been able to read about similar problems with the '01 Silverados, I had no choice but to contact my local Chevy dealer. All in all, they have been good to work with. But, I have my doubts about whether they can diagnose the root cause of the problem without tearing my truck apart from head to toe. They're starting by checking for bent wheels (aluminum) this coming Monday. Who knows where that will lead. Can anyone offer some advice? I cannot keep the vehicle in the condition it's in and dread the thought of trying to get it replaced. So, that means I need to get the problem fixed!
Other observations about my '01 Silverado:
1) We have to slam the front doors to get them to shut. 2) The exhaust is surprisingly loud. It sounds good on the highway. But, the exhaust noise is really annoying in town. 3) The engine often hesitates off idle. Could the idle speed be set too low? Is the truck always in too high of a gear? Could I have an intermittent miss in the engine? 4) The truck rarely seems to know what gear it's supposed to be in while driving at lower speeds. During normal driving, it's out of 1rst right away and into 3rd by 20-25 MPH. I believe it's already into O.D. by 30-35 MPH. This definitely affects items #2 & #3 listed above. Finally, the truck often will not down shift in the 40-45 MPH range. But, it seems to behave well at 50+ MPH. Should I be pursuing some aftermarket equipment for better trans calibration? 5) My fuel mileage has been a disappointing 12-12.5 MPH. I would consider myself an average driver and thought I should expect 14-15 MPH from my 6.0L. 6) The 6.0L's power increase over the many 5.7Ls it replaced is very noticeable but not fully appreciated yet due to the trans issues mentioned above. Does anyone have the 1/4 mile comparisons for the 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, & 8.1L engines? My dad has a 8.1L 2500HD with an Allison trans. I suspect that my 6.0L performs as well (when not towing!). 7) The tire choices for the 2500 trucks is a joke. Why doesn't GM offer 4x4 truck tires for a 4x4 truck? I suspect it's related to tire noise and cost.
Finally, I'm disappointed to read that people are willing to "settle" for poor NVH (noise/vibration/harshness) quality simply because they drive a truck. True, the mass along with the weight carrying capacity of trucks (along with many other factors) will often result in a ride that's more harsh. But, I strongly believe that if the multitude of GM NVH engineers are earning their pay, the NVH quality of Silverados (or F-Series, Rams, etc) should rival that of the foreign competition and should be somewhat comparable to the NVH quality expected from passenger cars. Thanks!
I'll research these sites for help on the low speed hesitation. From the post from "rjzimmer" (#1290) and others here and on other forums, this does not seem to be an isolated, one of a kind, problem. I really appreciate your help. Tom
I also have a problem with my truck shaking, at this point I am very frustrated and ready to trade my truck off. I purchased the truck Jan. 1 2001, it is a 2000 GMC reg. cab short box Z71 with approx. 9000 miles on it now. It has aftermarket wheels with BFG 285 AT's. I have tried about everything under the sun to rectify this problem, including; hubcentric rings, performance balance, realignment, which it still pulls to the right. The strange thing is, the shaking is less if not gone when the pavement is cool at night time.?, makes me think it is an alignment problem. My next thing to try is to mount my wheels and tires on my friends truck, which is identical to mine to see if his truck shakes. If it does not shake, I am not confident that the dealership can fix it, I will be looking to trade it off, I hate to take a beating on it, but all the vibration could not be good for the truck, and it is very irritating to drive a shaking truck.
Thanks to the readers that replied to my previous email. I used the duct tape across the top of my windshield and now the squeal/vibrations have stopped. The dealer resealed the gasket today and i will find out if this will work as did the duct tape. tommy
Well... I picked my HD up from my dealer yesterday after the third trip to the shop for vibration. All he did was run a "vibration analysis." According to him my truck is well within GM standards for vibration! WOW... I'd hate to have to ride in one that is outside parameters!
Today I finally took my truck to another GMC Certified Service Center. I chatted with the service writer, he called another service advisory to go for a ride in my truck. After I briefly explained my problems, they talked a minute or two, then we drove the truck... THe guy started asking me questions about the truck and after 2-3 miles he started recommending several things they could do to help correct the problem. His #1 suspicion is engine "LEAN SURGE" he claims GM has a fix which calls for reprograming the computer. He thinks he can fix or at least significantly improve my situation... WHY DIDN'T I GO TO THESE GUYS IN THE FIRST PLACE. I have an appointment to take it there Monday AM!
There calim is that the engine surge is causing the truck to vibrate... makes as much sense as anything else I've heard...
He also thinks a different set of tires would help too... something besides 10 ply rated...
GMC Customer Assistance is suppose to be calling me tomorrow as a followup on my shop visit Wed. I think I'm gonna play dumb and see if they have any offers or alternatives for repair...
FINALLY a GMC Service Tech that will actually admit there's a problem with my truck!!! HALLALUJAH!!!!!!
You indicated that the problem is not as severe at night. You should get those tire checked very carefully as something may be happening when the tire is hot. I had a nasty little vibration in the front of my wifes Safari and it developed a pull to the left. Rotated the tires and the vibration changed and the van started pulling to the right. Replaced the suspected tire and the vibration and pulling went completely away. And the tire showed to be in perfect balance on the machine. Good Luck
Guess what I've found? I was looking through the tsbs again and stumbled on this one. The tables for the exact part numbers on the reprogramming couldn't paste to Edmunds. If you need them, drop me an email.
PCM - Lean Hesitation/Sag/Stumble on Acceleration
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-04-006
Date: February, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Lean Hesitation, Sag or Stumble On Light/Moderate Acceleration (Reprogram PCM)
Models: 1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado, Sierra) with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on the following condition:
A lean hesitation, sag or stumble present during light to moderate accelerations.
^ Usually only present on the first one or two accelerations.
^ The condition occurs when the coolant temperature is between -6°C and +21 °C (20°F and 70°F).
^ Fuels with a high drivability index can also be a contributor.
Calibration Information
The Calibrations shown are electronic calibrations and are NOT available from GMSPO. Calibrations will be available from Techline starting November 2000, on the TIS 2000 version 19.5 TIS 00/2000 data update or later.
Cause
Calibrations not optimized for various operating parameters.
Correction
Verify that the drivability condition is not the result of an inoperative component, or a related wiring/other condition.
Cross-line warranty capability was recently announced to wholesale personnel and GM dealers via a DCS administrative message and a hard copy letter was sent to GM dealers only. The following bulletin provides additional information for dealers wishing to perform cross-line warranty repairs. We have also provided a section for Frequently Asked Questions that will address additional inquiries we have received since the release of the DCS message.
One of the benefits of cross-line warranty is the ability to perform repairs for customers in an emergency situation. Since emergency situations can be subjective from a customer's perspective, the dealer will need to determine if the situation merits urgent attention. While additional tools or training are not required, dealers should exercise good judgment regarding their ability to perform the repair. The overall intent is to provide an opportunity for customer satisfaction in a potentially negative ownership experience. If the dealer has questions regarding a specific situation, they should be reviewed with the Area Service Manager (AVM).
The second instance in which cross-line warranty can be performed is for used vehicles. Any used GM vehicle resold by a GM dealer may obtain warranty service from the selling GM dealer regardless of the dealer's new vehicle franchise. This will be helpful to dealers who have sold a used vehicle to a customer that is different from their franchise and will not have to turn the customer away for any remaining warranty work.
Cross-line warranty is not to be a replacement for the GM Certified Used Vehicle process. This process still remains intact and is administered by the GM Certified Used Vehicle Department.
Lastly, cross-line warranty capability is now available for designated commercial light duty trucks. Designated commercial dealers are defined as those dealers that meet the standards of the Light Duty Commercial Program and have signed the Dealer Participation Agreement. The matrix should help in identifying which light duty commercial vehicles qualify for cross-line repairs by designated commercial dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I start to perform cross-line warranty repairs and which model year vehicles can I service?
You can now submit cross-line warranty claims for any model year vehicle with warranty remaining, provided that the repair fails within one of the three established and previously stated guidelines.
Can I promote my cross-line warranty capability?
No. After receiving input from both the National Dealer Council and GM, GM agreed that in order to protect brand identity and dealers' equity in their franchise, dealers will not be permitted to advertise cross-line warranty service by any means including direct mail or other dealer mailings. Any violation of this could result in on-site consultation, audit, dealer charge back or termination of cross-line capability.
Can I perform a recall repair if one is outstanding on a used vehicle or one that has come into my shop as a result of an emergency situation? Yes. The campaign should be completed if the customer is at the dealer under one of the three established and previously stated guidelines. However, dealers should always check General Motors Vehicle Inquiry Service (GMVIS) to see if there is an outstanding campaign prior to the vehicle being sold. Dealers also need to make sure that they have the right tools and training to perform any recall. How do I submit a warranty claim on a cross-line warranty repair?
No changes are necessary to the warranty claim payment submission process in accommodating cross-line warranty repairs. Submission of cross-line warranty repair claims within the warranty period are to be done following established business processes and practices. Wholesale authorization must be obtained for any claim outside the warranty period on a non-franchised vehicle.
Will cross-line customers be excluded from receiving CSI surveys?
No. Cross-line warranty repairs are projected to be minute and are not considered to be the core repair business of the dealership. In addition, exclusion would be difficult and would interfere with the statistically valid selection process CSI has in place.
Why are Saturn and Saab excluded from participating in cross-line warranty? Saturn and Saab each have unique warranty claim payment and parts distribution systems. This would make it particularly difficult for non-Saturn and Saab dealers to procure parts or obtain reimbursement for the repair.
Does cross-line warranty capability alter the Roadside Assistance policies?
No. Roadside Assistance parameters require the vehicle be directed first to the selling dealer when practical, then to the closest franchised dealer, and last, to the nearest GM dealer.
Interesting....My truck was built in July of 2000, one of the first 200l's. I would think it would have proper programming, but maybe not. Temperature does not seem to make a difference, as my hesitation/stumble is present regardless of engine temperature or ambient temp. Only below 1500 rpm. Has done it since the day I drove it home. I will take the tsb # when visiting the dealer, as they said they had never heard of this before. Thank you for your help, Obyone. Once again you demonstrate what an asset you are to this forum! Tom
Comments
I just put some oil down the intermediate shaft (from inside the cab). Problem gone. Right at the firewall, there is a machined (about 1/2 inch) shaft going into a sleeve. Just a little oil down there fixed it.
My symptoms were:
Noticeable stick/slip creak audible and felt in the steering wheel going over bumps at low speed and when stopping and starting out. This is not the transfer case "clunk" which I also had and fixed with new blue AutoTrakII fluid.
Good luck.
- Mitch
Obyone, do you still have that TSB? If I can find it I will post it.
Jim
#00-06-04-007B
Increased Accelerator Pedal Effort (Replace Throttle Body)
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)
with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINs V, T, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)
This bulletin is being revised to include instructions on reading the Date Code, and added text on which Throttle Body Assemblies to replace. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-007A (Section 04 -- Engine Controls).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a higher than expected accelerator pedal effort from the idle position.
Cause
Condition may be caused by a tight throttle blade in the throttle body bore when in the closed position.
Correction
Notice
DO NOT adjust the shipping air screw to rotate the throttle body blade away from the throttle body bore. Adjusting the shipping air screw compromises the
idle speed control, and may lead to other driveability concerns. Adjusting the shipping air screw may lead to reduced Idle Air Control valve durability.
1.Verify the cause for this condition is not a damaged or binding throttle cable.
FIGURE Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification(c)
(1)
Location of last 5 digits of Throttle Body Assembly Part Number
(2)
Location of 4 digit Julian Date Code
(3)
Throttle Body Assembly
2.Remove the throttle body (3) from the engine and inspect the 4 digit Julian date code (2) stamped on the bottom edge of the mounting flange. The Julian date
code is stamped on the lower edge of the mounting flange, next to the gasket edge, on the side of the throttle position sensor. The stamped 5 digit code (1) is
the last 5 digits of the Throttle Body Assembly Part Number. See Figure 1 - Throttle Body Date Code Identification.
3.If the Date Code is 2979 , or earlier (Indicating the Throttle Body was built before the 297th day of 1999):
DO NOT clean the Throttle Body Assembly.
Replace the Throttle Body Assembly using the Service Manual procedure.
DO NOT attempt to adjust Throttle Body Assemblies.
Notice
All 1999 models whose Throttle Body has not been replaced will have a date code prior to 2979 and should be replaced for this condition.
Reading The Date Code
The four digit Date Code can be interpreted as follows:
Example -- Date Code 2979
1.The first 3 digits (297) represent the calendar Julian date. 297 = the 297th day of the calendar year.
2.The last digit (9) represents the last digit of the year.
8 = the year 1998
9 = the year 1999
0 = the year 2000
1 = the year 2001
Parts Information
Model Year
Part Number
Description
1999
17113597
Throttle Body, 4.8 L V8 w/Manual Transmission
1999
17113583
Throttle Body, 4.8 L and 5.3 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission
1999
17113558
Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission
1999
17113599
Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Manual Transmission
2000
17113639
Throttle Body, 4.8 L V8 w/Manual Transmission
2000
17113665
Throttle Body, 4.8 L and 5.3 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission and w/o Traction Control
2000
17113640
Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Manual Transmission
2000
17113652
Throttle Body, 6.0 L V8 w/Automatic Transmission and w/o Traction Control
1999, 2000
17113561
Seal, Throttle body (not shown)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J5485
Throttle Body - R&R
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J5490
Throttle Body Replace
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I don't see any other "driveability concerns"....
(Don't be to hard about my writing, I'm french canadian!!!)
Stef
Ray T.
It was scary when it just stalled from a stop as the transmission would not engage right away with on coming traffic. I had 2 close calls here, but it only happened about 5 times, and never of course when I had it in to check.
The anti-lock brakes don't work, but I felt safe with the Firestone Wilderness AT's! Did I mention that when I downshifted at about 60 mph, it went into 2nd gear instead of 3rd. I was going to lemon law this thing, but the dealer told me they all ran like mine. Really?
Just wanted to vent a little, but it really is nice getting rid of this truck. I even returned it 1 month early. I feel sorry for the person that buys this. Probably some young guy who's paycheck will mostly go toward this vehicle. Beware, it is gray, coming out of Minnesota. Service records are so long that they will have to wholesale to another dealer. My brother just picked up his new Tahoe and had transmission problems driving it home. I warned him.
Loving my QX4.
Bye bye. Have fun. Play nice.
Barry
Ken
He said if it IS a dry slip yoke, it will become obvious at some point when the vibration rips out the carrier bearing and your drive shaft, universal joints, bearings and maybe even your rear axle is scattered in the street.
Too bad this guy can only work on Chevy's, I told him that if my dealer couldn't fix my GMC, I'd lemon law it and come buy a Chevy from him!
I have an appointment with the owner of the dealership where I've been trying to get this thing fixed. Maybe this will encourage them to do something.
Anyone esle have an idea about this proposed solution???
etimbers a.k.a. ernest t
Mike
Not sure how to stop it, other than lube. Think maybe a piece of rubber wedged in there might work also.
Suggestions?
Seriously thinking about carving off an 1/8 inch along the front edge except for the corners to create some tolerance. Not sure I can do it neatly though.... !
Thanks for the suggestion.
John
-Eric
Any Ideas, sounds like it is coming from the top of the truck!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks tommy
Tom
-Eric
Tom
http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/gmsi.html
Stef
Back to my story: After demanding my original equipment, wimpy 245/75/R16 Firestones back, I set out to find another, more reputable tire dealer for a "new" set of BFG ATs. Unfortunately, the vehicle still had an unacceptable amount of shake with the factory tire/wheel combo. And, since I haven't been able to read about similar problems with the '01 Silverados, I had no choice but to contact my local Chevy dealer. All in all, they have been good to work with. But, I have my doubts about whether they can diagnose the root cause of the problem without tearing my truck apart from head to toe. They're starting by checking for bent wheels (aluminum) this coming Monday. Who knows where that will lead. Can anyone offer some advice? I cannot keep the vehicle in the condition it's in and dread the thought of trying to get it replaced. So, that means I need to get the problem fixed!
Other observations about my '01 Silverado:
1) We have to slam the front doors to get them to shut.
2) The exhaust is surprisingly loud. It sounds good on the highway. But, the exhaust noise is really annoying in town.
3) The engine often hesitates off idle. Could the idle speed be set too low? Is the truck always in too high of a gear? Could I have an intermittent miss in the engine?
4) The truck rarely seems to know what gear it's supposed to be in while driving at lower speeds. During normal driving, it's out of 1rst right away and into 3rd by 20-25 MPH. I believe it's already into O.D. by 30-35 MPH. This definitely affects items #2 & #3 listed above. Finally, the truck often will not down shift in the 40-45 MPH range. But, it seems to behave well at 50+ MPH. Should I be pursuing some aftermarket equipment for better trans calibration?
5) My fuel mileage has been a disappointing 12-12.5 MPH. I would consider myself an average driver and thought I should expect 14-15 MPH from my 6.0L.
6) The 6.0L's power increase over the many 5.7Ls it replaced is very noticeable but not fully appreciated yet due to the trans issues mentioned above. Does anyone have the 1/4 mile comparisons for the 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, & 8.1L engines? My dad has a 8.1L 2500HD with an Allison trans. I suspect that my 6.0L performs as well (when not towing!).
7) The tire choices for the 2500 trucks is a joke. Why doesn't GM offer 4x4 truck tires for a 4x4 truck? I suspect it's related to tire noise and cost.
Finally, I'm disappointed to read that people are willing to "settle" for poor NVH (noise/vibration/harshness) quality simply because they drive a truck. True, the mass along with the weight carrying capacity of trucks (along with many other factors) will often result in a ride that's more harsh. But, I strongly believe that if the multitude of GM NVH engineers are earning their pay, the NVH quality of Silverados (or F-Series, Rams, etc) should rival that of the foreign competition and should be somewhat comparable to the NVH quality expected from passenger cars. Thanks!
http://calid.gm.com/vci/
Have you tried to check if there are any updates to the trans and engine programming for your VIN? Might be worth a try.
Tom
tommy
-Eric
Well... I picked my HD up from my dealer yesterday after the third trip to the shop for vibration. All he did was run a "vibration analysis." According to him my truck is well within GM standards for vibration! WOW... I'd hate to have to ride in one that is outside parameters!
Today I finally took my truck to another GMC Certified Service Center. I chatted with the service writer, he called another service advisory to go for a ride in my truck. After I briefly explained my problems, they talked a minute or two, then we drove the truck... THe guy started asking me questions about the truck and after 2-3 miles he started recommending several things they could do to help correct the problem. His #1 suspicion is engine "LEAN SURGE" he claims GM has a fix which calls for reprograming the computer. He thinks he can fix or at least significantly improve my situation... WHY DIDN'T I GO TO THESE GUYS IN THE FIRST PLACE. I have an appointment to take it there Monday AM!
There calim is that the engine surge is causing the truck to vibrate... makes as much sense as anything else I've heard...
He also thinks a different set of tires would help too... something besides 10 ply rated...
GMC Customer Assistance is suppose to be calling me tomorrow as a followup on my shop visit Wed. I think I'm gonna play dumb and see if they have any offers or alternatives for repair...
FINALLY a GMC Service Tech that will actually admit there's a problem with my truck!!! HALLALUJAH!!!!!!
Hope this helps...
Tim
BTW, it was a BFG Radial T/A
PCM - Lean Hesitation/Sag/Stumble on Acceleration
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-04-006
Date: February, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Lean Hesitation, Sag or Stumble On Light/Moderate Acceleration
(Reprogram PCM)
Models:
1999 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado, Sierra)
with 4.8 L, 5.3 L or 6.0 L V8 Engine (VINS V, T, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, LQ4)
Condition
Some customers may comment on the following condition:
A lean hesitation, sag or stumble present during light to moderate accelerations.
^ Usually only present on the first one or two accelerations.
^ The condition occurs when the coolant temperature is between -6°C and +21 °C (20°F and 70°F).
^ Fuels with a high drivability index can also be a contributor.
Calibration Information
The Calibrations shown are electronic calibrations and are NOT available from GMSPO. Calibrations will be available from Techline starting November 2000, on the TIS 2000 version 19.5 TIS 00/2000 data update or later.
Cause
Calibrations not optimized for various operating parameters.
Correction
Verify that the drivability condition is not the result of an inoperative component, or a related wiring/other condition.
File In Section: 00 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-021
Date: August, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject:
Cross-line Warranty
Models:
2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention: All U.S. General Motors Dealers
Cross-line warranty capability was recently announced to wholesale personnel and GM dealers via a DCS administrative message and a hard copy letter was sent to GM dealers only. The following bulletin provides additional information for dealers wishing to perform cross-line warranty repairs. We have also provided a section for Frequently Asked Questions that will address additional inquiries we have received since the release of the DCS message.
One of the benefits of cross-line warranty is the ability to perform repairs for customers in an emergency situation. Since emergency situations can be subjective from a customer's perspective, the dealer will need to determine if the situation merits urgent attention. While additional tools or training are not required, dealers should exercise good judgment regarding their ability to perform the repair. The overall intent is to provide an opportunity for customer satisfaction in a potentially negative ownership experience. If the dealer has questions regarding a specific situation, they should be reviewed with the Area Service Manager (AVM).
The second instance in which cross-line warranty can be performed is for used vehicles. Any used GM vehicle resold by a GM dealer may obtain warranty service from the selling GM dealer regardless of the dealer's new vehicle franchise. This will be helpful to dealers who have sold a used vehicle to a customer that is different from their franchise and will not have to turn the customer away for any remaining warranty work.
Cross-line warranty is not to be a replacement for the GM Certified Used Vehicle process. This process still remains intact and is administered by the GM Certified Used Vehicle Department.
Lastly, cross-line warranty capability is now available for designated commercial light duty trucks. Designated commercial dealers are defined as those dealers that meet the standards of the Light Duty Commercial Program and have signed the Dealer Participation Agreement. The matrix should help in identifying which light duty commercial vehicles qualify for cross-line repairs by designated commercial dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I start to perform cross-line warranty repairs and which model year vehicles can I service?
You can now submit cross-line warranty claims for any model year vehicle with warranty remaining, provided that the repair fails within one of the three established and previously stated guidelines.
Can I promote my cross-line warranty capability?
No. After receiving input from both the National Dealer Council and GM, GM agreed that in order to protect brand identity and dealers' equity in their franchise, dealers will not be permitted to advertise cross-line warranty service by any means including direct mail or other dealer mailings. Any violation of this could result in on-site consultation, audit, dealer charge back or termination of cross-line capability.
Can I perform a recall repair if one is outstanding on a used vehicle or one that has come into my shop as a result of an emergency situation? Yes. The campaign should be completed if the customer is at the dealer under one of the three established and previously stated guidelines. However, dealers should always check General Motors Vehicle Inquiry Service (GMVIS) to see if there is an outstanding campaign prior to the vehicle being sold. Dealers also need to make sure that they have the right tools and training to perform any recall. How do I submit a warranty claim on a cross-line warranty repair?
No changes are necessary to the warranty claim payment submission process in accommodating cross-line warranty repairs. Submission of cross-line warranty repair claims within the warranty period are to be done following established business processes and practices. Wholesale authorization must be obtained for any claim outside the warranty period on a non-franchised vehicle.
Will cross-line customers be excluded from receiving CSI surveys?
No. Cross-line warranty repairs are projected to be minute and are not considered to be the core repair business of the dealership. In addition, exclusion would be difficult and would interfere with the statistically valid selection process CSI has in place.
Why are Saturn and Saab excluded from participating in cross-line warranty? Saturn and Saab each have unique warranty claim payment and parts distribution systems. This would make it particularly difficult for non-Saturn and Saab dealers to procure parts or obtain reimbursement for the repair.
Does cross-line warranty capability alter the Roadside Assistance policies?
No. Roadside Assistance parameters require the vehicle be directed first to the selling dealer when practical, then to the closest franchised dealer, and last, to the nearest GM dealer.
Thank you for your help, Obyone. Once again you demonstrate what an asset you are to this forum!
Tom