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Comments
1. 4.0 engine is darn near bulletproof and a proven engine. The V6 is okay, and you can probably do things to it to make it more of a performer, but I'm not into those kinds of engine mods.
2. TJ's have a HUGE aftermarket base at THIS time and those parts are a LOT cheaper than comparable JK parts at THIS TIME. That may change as the JK is out longer, but for now, the TJ is still a LOT cheaper to mod/upgrade.
3. JK's (08+) have a tire pressure system that will drive you nuts if you airdown offroad. 07's don't have it or it works differently.
IMO, if you're going to wheel it, a TJ will be easier/cheaper to fix/maintain than a new JK. I sure wouldn't wanna flop a new JK (I have flopped a TJ).
Now depending on your usage, that could be different. The JK axles are generally stronger than the TJ's D44's. The JK is more streetable than the TJ (more comfortable). But if you're going to wheel it, a TJ is a better way to go (and easier to fix).
Just go with the soft top only. The freedom top is a pain from what I've read about it.
In making your decision, you can't go wrong with either, but each has their strengths, depending on what YOU want.
-Paul
Thanks, Paul, as well. I know Audi's maint can be crazy, so yeah, I had her checked thoroughly and folded a warranty into the loan. She's an '05 A4 Quattro w/ 6spd manual.
Never posted a pic of the Jeep before; trying now. If successful, it's her in Joshua Tree National Park.
Thank you
It is ALMOST a fine art to getting the TJ top up and down smoothly. I don't mess with it but twice a year - once in the spring to take the top off and run the safari, and once in the fall to put the soft top back on. During that time, the soft top is totally off - hardware and all.
But there is a process that I find works. But I would like to know if you have done anything to the soft top hardware (bows/frame) that would put any kind of stress on the top. Properly fit, it IS tight, but the cold does NOT help at all.
-Paul
Thank you
Do you have pics of where the top is ripping? It sounds more like a procedural issue when putting the top up or perhaps even down.
Here's how I've done it with no problems.
Taking top down:
1. Remove rear window and side windows.
2. Undo plastic clips in door surrounds.
3. Undo latches in windshield frame, but do NOT totally undo yet.
4. Go to rear of tub and press down slightly on rear bow and remove corner pieces from tub.
5. Finish unclamping windshield area and fold back slowly. As you get close to it laying flat, be sure to fold the plastic door surround clip things inwards. If you don't, you run the risk of them tearing out.
Putting top up. See steps above.
1. Unfold up to windshield frame.
2. Insert windshield frame clamps but do NOT clamp em down.
3. Press down on rear bow and insert rear corners into tub.
4. Ensure plastic clips are not being pinched between soft top frame and door surrounds.
5. Ensure middle bow is resting on rest of frame (you'll see what I mean if you look at your soft top up from inside by the cage hoop).
6. Clamp down windshield frame.
7. Insert FRONT clips into door surrounds.
8. Insert rear window
9. Insert side windows. Having the second clip unhooked at this point, makes it a LOT easier to start the zippers.
10. Insert rearmost plastic clip into door surrounds.
Enjoy.
-Paul
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Over here in western KY we have it much worse. My power has been off since 3:00 AM last Tuesday! Tomorrow morning will make one week! I think I heard that we had 2" of ice.
There is not one single full grown tree that I have seen ANYWHERE around here that does not have some of the major upper limbs broken off.
I'm at work now in Madisonville, and we got our power back here just yesterday.
Glad you hugged your Jeep, but have you hugged it TODAY?
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
-Paul
I guess it's possible you might have grown since 1989...........I know I have!
The sad thing is the interior is a tad larger, but I still felt like I was sittin' in a Crosley.
Wrangler interiors don't grow at the same rate old Navy Chiefs do.
Happy Jeepin'
Chief
Oh......you DO remember Crosleys, right?
: :
I never owned one but you still see them occasionally. Many different body styles that all looked like a miniature version of something else, from a British sports car, to a delivery truck, to a Jeep.
Here's a couple pics of the Jeep look-alike called a Farm Off Road or FOR.
Look in the background of the red one to see how small they really were compared to the people there.
For a nostalgic look at many more of the same and different body styles click HERE
then click on the link at the bottom of each page to see more.
I am experienced with replacing axles and all sorts of engine repair, my question is does anyone have a link helping set the gears so i don't burn them out. My clubs board talks about how i need to buy an OX or Detroit (yes i know they are great but this price is right!!!) , so i am coming here lol.
Any help would be appreciated....Thanks!!
Axle- Front Dana 30 w/4.10 ratio
Any other info need let me know!!
Go here: ALLDATA, to get twelve months access to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for $26.95.
It contains very specific and detailed information on how to do the job.
You can also download a very good generic installation guide here: YUKON, that has some excellent illustrations of what the gear mesh patterns should look like.
Personally, I'd go for an ECTED every time over an OX, Detroit, or ARB.
Thanks,
A. J.
Good luck.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I understand what you mean, as it only needs a fresh filling that hasn't been shaped properly to completely throw off the alignment of your teeth as you chew, which can be really irritating. What TMJ is to a lumpy filling sounds like what pneumonia is to a sniffle.
Good luck with getting things fixed, and keep some brochures around. A picture on a screen doesn't hold a candle to the feel and smell of a glossy brochure.
"Last month, Jeep sold 9,088 Wranglers. That was actually an increase of 2,000 over last year."
Thanks in advance!
Between a '95 and an '00, huge.....it's a totally different vehicle.
Between an '00 and an '02, very little.
I assume it's a good thing?
Thanks
Gently remove the nut at the bottom of the post with a 13mm wrench (at least my year is 13mm).
Lift the door up without chipping the paint.
Then wonder where you're gonna put then. Mine are sitting in the way in the garage for everyone to trip over.
Short wheel base Jeeps were designated as YJ's from '87 thru '95. They are the Jeeps with the "square" headlights. They have leaf springs all the way around and do not ride nearly as smoothly as the TJ's ('97 - '06) or the JK's ('07 - '09), which have coil springs.
YJs do not have the axle articulation in stock configuration that a stock TJ or a stock JK would have. YJ's can be modified to be killer trail rigs, but stock to stock, the TJ or the JK will out perform the YJ off road big time, because of that better articulation.
There were no '96 models, as this was the transition year from the YJ to the TJ.
I would stay with the 99 or later models, because I believe the 99s were the first ones with distributorless ignition.
I don't know if you have any plans to offroad that Jeep, but, if so, then deftintely find one with the Dana 44 rear end (as opposed to the Dana 35). The Dana 44 is much stronger than the Dana 35 and will support the use of bigger tires and a locker better than will the Dana 35.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
As for half doors.. I THINK the halfdoors for TJ's are interchangeable between 97and 06.
-Paul
thanks for your help
Your problem is that the defroster door, which diverts air inside the HVAC unit up to the windshield, isn't moving even though the external mechanism seems to be functioning ok.
What has actually happened is that the connection to the door (which is made of a brittle plastic) has broken internally.
Unfortunately, not only was the door never made available separately, but the upper housing (part #4864 945) of which it is a part appears to be no longer available.
I have seen aftermarket kits on eBay that claim to fix the problem but I've never used one.
Some people live with it, some people hunt down a used HVAC unit and cannibalize or install it complete, others permanently fix the door in position with a wire hooked into it from above.
I'd be interested to hear what your dealer says.
No, hydraulic. That noise is not uncommon and is most likely a lifter or a fuel injector.
A hummer forum was commenting about even the mighty front d44 can be broken. We all know about the cracked axle tubes. There are preventatives for those who have to have lifts, 35's and higher and see how far they can go with their bf's before they break something. But with the jk you don't have to engineer anything, others have already figured it out.
Want to thank those with H's and JK's who break things so the rest of us know the limits and what to do if we care to follow. However, for a few more dollars than the GM extended short warranty and high deductible, we got the smallest deductible (not zero) and lifetime max warranty. If Blue Rubi doesn't get busted up, we can continue to drive it anytime anywhere without the worry about years and miles. I will give it the best that is appropriate like Valvoline Syn no sooner than at 5k miles on the odometer. Good lubes and then enjoy the ride. Only changes have been the mopar 7pin trailer wiring kit (dealership installed and four pin harness in my new parts bin) and a rock hard cannister armor from the dealer (They ordered it to have a look at it and I bought it as soon as it came in.)
1400 miles now and valvoline dino and redline gear lube and no water leaks and continue to have that sports car fun feeling. Yes, doing the wave and like one of the screamin lizard's said, do the wave and if they don't wave back so what. Only problem is that there seems to be a lot of jk's tj's etc out here lately and some days the arm and hand get a workout.
1. The horn does not sound when the car is locked.
2. The headlights do not turn on when the car is unlocked.
Thanks.
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It's not a car.
What are some of the first steps to take to make the wrangler off-road ready?
It's already offroad ready, and with all due respect, a lot more so than you probably are or you wouldn't be asking.
Much depends on what you want to do and over what type of terrain. Even on fairly mild trails the learning curve can be pretty steep. Do remember that bigger tires and a lifted suspension may improve the Jeep's capabilities offroad (though with trade-offs on the highway), but they won't improve your driving skills at all. In fact they usually just enable you to get stuck or to fall over in a more dramatic way!
Your first purchases should be a fire extinguisher, tow strap, and First Aid kit, and don't go offroad with them on your own (it's tough using that tow strap without another vehicle to attach it to ).
Next, think about improved underbody protection; skid plates, rocker protection, stronger bumpers, etc.
Finally, if you want a nice toy to bolt on, you might think about a winch. However, initially you'll probably only use it to pull your buddy out. Until you really know what you're doing, you rarely want to pull yourself deeper into whatever got you stuck.
Remember that he best winch for your recovery is almost always attached to the vehicle behind you.
Life is good,
Walt
I normally say 150 - 250K miles before even needing to think about an engine overhaul; 300K is excellent.
Congratulations, what a value!
What are my options for a decent repair w/o breaking the bank? 98 Durango steering box seems like my best bet (with or without snow plow option - affects turns to lock) or is there something else I can do? I THINK I can get one from Adv Auto for about 188 with 125 core.
Keep in mind I'm trying to keep this somewhat reasonable in price.
Mac, any input?
-Paul
You can rebuild it yourself, but parts can be a problem.
NAPA, Advance, Autozone will be the best price option for an exchange unit and are all around the same price at a little under $200, with the Snow Plough option being another $50 or so.
Core charges vary but are immaterial unless you intend to keep you original box.
I suppose you could look for something secondhand, but steering and brakes are something I prefer to go new on.
Since my son will be driving it for a while around town, I want the steering fixed (a bit too loose now).
-Paul
If you go that route you might want to get it ported with blanking plugs in case you ever want to go with cylinder assist in the future.
I've heard about too many problems with AGR to want to recommend them, though to be fair it's mainly been with their modified pumps.
Reman vs new? In theory new should be better but I've had and seen mixed experiences of good and bad with both. If you think that new components will always be better, ask yourself why new cars come with a warranty.
Best value would probably be the Durango Snow unit if you can return your old box as the core.
I understand what you say about your son driving, but the steering and braking should really be 100% regardless of who's in the left seat.
PSC makes the SG621MR with the ports for hydro assist, but I don't plan on going that route with this TJ. 33's is it with moderate wheeling.
The Durango with snow option is 165 from AdvAuto (with core). The PSC is 335 shipped to my door from a 4x4 shop. Do you think it'll hold up sufficiently with 33x12.5's for onroad and offroad use and give me back responsive steering and minimized that dead spot in the middle? THAT is ultimately what I'm trying to take care of. When I have to make a huge steering adjustment just to keep the TJ straight or to follow a slight bend in the road, something ain't right.
I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it. If I get one and it sucks, I'll return with the lifetime warranty and go for a PSC.
The brakes I'm not worried about. I can lock them up if I need to, but the 2.5L is slow enough that it isn't a concern!
I have checked the linkages in the components underneath and they are all rock solid (JKS trackbar and ZJ tierod (new ends) and NO undue motion in ANY joint).
-Paul
Thanks.
Ah, you're trying to put me on the spot! :P
1: Any of the choices even a standard TJ unit, if properly built, will give responsive steering with no central dead spot
2: For a small improvement in performance and minimal cost the reman Dakota SP box is probably the best short term value.
3: The PSC would be my choice because it's overbuilt for a standard or minimally modified Jeep, and I'll be keeping mine forever.
However, my choices may not be the best for you, and it would also be possible to get a perfect reman from Advance and bad unit from PSC (and vice versa), so there's no perfect solution..
If you have five minutes to spare take a look at this AMG promo to see the kind of loads and stresses the PSC box is expected to withstand.
I don't remember having that problem but can't you either push or pull the nut/flange assembly back down to the point where the flange will catch again and allow you to continue undoing the bolt?
Alternatively, is it possible to jamb the nut with a screwdriver/chisel/small rodent?
Just about anything would work as long as it's not your finger.
Final option is to cut the bolts and spring for a pair of new ones. You should be able to salvage the nuts after removal.
Have fun removing the pan, it's a fiddly job. It'll be easier if you raise the engine by releasing the mounts and inserting a couple of small wood blocks to support it.
Any more information on the Dakota SP box? Define short term value.
I plan to keep this thing for a while longer, even with the mileage it currently has.
Any plans to get rid of your H1? Would love to see more pics of it. My wife is still wanting one of those originals. She wants to run over people.
-Paul