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Jeep Wrangler



  • mishkalvmishkalv Posts: 3
    01 Wrangler 4.0L 5 speed manual, 4" lift, 33" tires.
    Was grinding a bit going into/out of 2nd. Mechanic replaced clutch & main seal yesterday. Drove it this evening & still grinding also makes a whirring noise going into 2nd/3rd and now the stick shift has a lot of play when I'm in 3rd&4th. Noticed on your site that troubleshooting for similar issues should start with transmission fluid check, this was not done. Also, transmission fluid was not changed when clutch was replaced, is this normal?

    FYI -I used this shop for years but my trusted mechanic no longer works there & I feel very in the dark so any advice would be great.

    I also seem to have excessive tire wear & a shake at higher speeds that they can't figure out. The new mechanic asked where I had gotten the tires & lift done (it was there! ). I see a post for death wobble, should I follow the same path?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Your vibrations are likely driveline vibes from the 4" lift. Do you have a motor mount lift at all? If you don't, that will 'tilt' the motor a bit to get the transmission more in line with the rear driveshaft and should reduce vibes.

    First thing I would do is change the fluids in your differentials and in your transmission, especially if you don't recall ever having done it.

    As for your moving stick, you MAY have a transmission mount lose or disconnected from your replacement. Look at the skid plate under the Jeep between the doors. You should see 4 nuts holding the transmission in place. If there are no bolts, that may explain the problem (they didn't reattach it perhaps).

    If you have issues that were NOT present when you dropped it off, take it back to them and let them know exactly when they started and give them a chance to make it right.

    Excessive tire wear may be due to bad alignment. Was an alignment done after the lift? It NEEDS to be done, along with recentering the steering wheel.

    You can do this yourself with a couple of wrenches and a tape measure. Check out

    You'll know death wobble when you get it - it is THAT violent of a shaking. Tire/suspension shimmy and transmission vibes are very different.

  • mishkalvmishkalv Posts: 3
    Thanks so much for the reply Paul!

    Took it back to the shop just now feeling much more informed.

    advised no motor mount lift done because a body lift was not done only a suspension lift. alignment was done after the lift, will check to see if it needs to be re-aligned (thanks for the 4x4xplor hook up!)

    They had not checked/changed the fluids mentioned at all, saying this need not be done until it hits 90k unless it is used offroad (.they will be checking them today.

    checked this a.m. & the bolts are there in the skidplate. They told me slop in the gears was normal for a manual. I politely disagreed, advised there was no slop b4 the clutch was changed out. we'll see where that goes.

    of course I would love 2 keep using the same shop as it is convenient to home & they are Jeep lovers 2. I had gotten comfy with my fave mechanic & this shook my confidence a little but am hoping for the best.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    advised no motor mount lift done because a body lift was not done only a suspension lift.

    Either you or they have that backwards. With a body lift the propeller shaft angles don't change so no engine lift or transfer case drop is required.

    However, a suspension lift does change those shaft angles, which then require correction to eliminate vibration.
  • mishkalvmishkalv Posts: 3
    hey mac 24...thanks for the reply. I'm confident I don't have it backwards, he even pointed out his personal Jeep as an example as his has both the body & suspension lift (his body lift being the reason he has the motor mount lift).

    perhaps your helping me solve the mystery shimmy...thanks for the education.
    Now, I'm getting nervous about the possibility of having to find a new shop & I'm sure they are tired of me & my questions/challenges to their opinions.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .........he even pointed out his personal Jeep as an example as his has both the body & suspension lift (his body lift being the reason he has the motor mount lift).

    While he may be able to handle a wrench and knows how to do things (maybe), he obviously doesn't see the big picture and understand why they have to be done.

    I think I see a new shop in your future! ;)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Michelle, you CAN do a motor lift without doing a body lift. You just have to have the fan shroud raised up a bit when you do it. If you don't the fan will get destroyed. The reason being: Motor is going up higher, but the fan shroud is attached to the radiator (and the rest of the body). That will 'tilt' the transmission and driveshaft a bit to get the angles a bit better to prevent rear driveline vibes.

    Relocating that shroud isn't complicated at all (drill some new holes in the plastic ABS shroud and you're set), but most just do both at the same time.

    I have a manual and have no slop in my gear at all.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited June 2010
    Michelle, you CAN do a motor lift without doing a body lift. You just have to have the fan shroud raised up a bit when you do it.

    Yes, that's how mine is set up and it eliminated the vibration that appeared after installing my OME suspension lift.

    However, a 3" lift is pretty much the max that this will work for, and looking back over the posts it appears you have a 4" suspension lift of some sort which would normally require a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) together with a different rear propshaft.

    Michelle,do you know which lift the shop originally installed and if anything else was done at the same time?

    Going back to the original questions, if there wasn't any slop in the gear lever before the clutch change there shouldn't be any now.
    It's likely the grinding when changing gear is due to wear in the brass synchromesh rings (synchros) which requires the transmission to be removed and opened to replace them.
    However, although it won't fix the wear, you may get some relief by changing to a synthetic transmission fluid.
    Although the standard fluid drain intervals are quite long, they should have drained yours as a diagnostic measure to look for excessive brass flakes in the oil.
  • Is this another tease or the protype of a new rubicon?

    Didn't spend Easter in Moab but just got Petersen's August issue.

    Don't need 4.56 gears and 42's but a hemi, portals, and first rate parts will keep me very interested. What hummer could be and the raptor was built for.
  • "On a side note..."

    Just saw the recall on another forum and the fix. Amazingly when I installed those handles in the fender liner, I saw the rubbing on the brake line. After pulling up the liner with those ace hardware handles, the rubbing ended. Paint gone from the passenger side line but no discernable metal abrasion. Trimmed the liner anyway. Good to go
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Is this another tease or the protype of a new rubicon?

    Jeep should be ashamed. Compared to previous beautifully fabricated prototypes, this one looks like it was thrown together by a couple of interns during their lunch break.


    Now look at the 'Lower Forty', the 'Hurricane', and the 'Gladiator' concepts. These were concepts that demonstrated the design and fabrication skills available to Jeep at the time.
    The Immortal looks like a JK that had a bunch of assorted 'off the shelf 'parts just thrown at it to see what might stick.
    Not even any thought of keeping it street legal! I can't believe Chrysler sanctioned putting the Mopar 'M' on the side.



  • Thanks for the pictures and the education. Hummer played with the H4concepts. Raptor has a waiting line of farmers/ranchers. All the advanced designs can be had right now by those with six figures to throw at it. I would be happy with the portals, 3.21 gears?, 35's, factory hemi/old pushrod, good strong axles and suspension, fenders, and a bumper/ winch option. I would not have to spend time and extra money selling factory buying aftermarket and fixing and fixing.

    I believe at least here in Texas, trucks are bought if a truck is wanted/needed. Who really wants an H3T. And wasn't there a Commanche? cherokee truck?

    Didn't the shootout by a base fj and a rubicon in Petersen's? mention an $8,000 price advantage of the fj. I believe our $36k rubicon sticker was high (for just good enough pieces) but they did give it back with invoice, $7.5k which included zero interest for 3yrs, and lifetime powertrain, but we also did buy that lifetime everything warranty.

    In essence, I guess I am saying the factory, through whatever group name svt etc, can bring that money home to the bottom line and we get a superior product. True hardcore can build up beaters or spend their affluence. Waiting to see if a steel roof or non folding windshield(why anyway for the majority) is coming via rollover testing.

    I hope they give us both what we want.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited June 2010
    Even Ed talked about gm marketing today.

    Now for the fun stuff. Kept getting Sirius letters when first year was running out. Called a few times asking for a better deal. Don't really need it, mygig just has the nav on it, but Sirius would not seem so bad if they could get under that three digit cost per year. Even offered ninrty-nine. No. Good bye. Now comes a letter for seventy-seven. Tempting (better_half says to do it), but can switch from fm to mp3 (don't even have an ipod) but have the option to talk with better_half or just let my brain work on things with the music off.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited June 2010
    Showed up for my hayden install wednesday morning and no hayden. His supplier said he was out. Thank you so much. Internet printout in hand, O'reilly's sold me the Hayden 679 for ~$60. Ordered the jeep kit for the high pressure hose 2 barbed ftgs and clamps $11. Bought some extra tranny hose at napa (1/32" over id) and clerk says your rubicon should've been recalled like mine was months ago. Told him ours was an '09.

    Called local dealer, our dealer was eliminated, got a nice guy (guy friday named Jason) who said how could he the '09's were just recalled yesterday and it is four pages. But no mention of a cooler. Seems that they turn on the dash hot tranny light and possibly kick on the fan at a lower temp. Got to go for the warranty.

    Tranny still lets you know when the fluid is getting there. Adam at The Tribe 4x4 and I will spend monday morning together.
  • Another forum post about a squeek in the center stack. The answer was given. We had the irritating plastic squeek also, so guessing we are not alone. Before you tear up the dash, ours was outside just like one of the answers provided.

    Open the hood, notice the two plastic braces for the cowling in front of the wiper motor. Our push pin on the driver side had popped up. Pushed it back in and squeek has been silenced. If it continues, might bolt it down or spray gm super lube on it like did on the foam of the h3 to stop the squeek from the movement of the heater tubes on the dried out foam in the firewall.
  • No not about the internet but follow through while the iron is hot. Love redline products, wish I had so when owned the previa instead of all the M1 through the motor and tranny. Should've redlined the jk from day one. Should have read the manual better and installed a tranny cooler.

    Tribe 4x4 just installed my hayden with the extra hose and ftgs. Bought an extra bag of ties. Opened the box at the store and possibly lost one retaining plate or one was missing. Anyway, cooler installed in the middle, 3+ qts drained. 3+ qts added, engine run, 3+ qts drained and 3+ qts installed. Drove great

    Swung by the GV dealer and luckily the advisor that I've talked too but never used was back from the Biker's ride in Austin. At least he rides a Hog if not owning a JK. Funny, the flash for the tranny is listed but the - inspect fender liner wasn't.
  • btill1btill1 Posts: 69
    I am new to Jeeps I purchased a 2010 2 door Wrangler in March. I love the vehicle but I would like to have more power what is the best way to accomplish this? Should I add a K&N Air Intake or are there better options?

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,253
    You'll be extremely lucky to see a 5 bhp increase with any aftermarket intake. Modern naturally aspirated engines don't leave much -if any- power on the table.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • The plastic brace had a little intermittent squeek only audible if the environment was quiet. gm superlube running low. Found an old pump bottle of duralube (free sample?), the push pin hadn't lifted but easily moved side to side. Sprayed the top of the push pin and its' base and complete silence.

    Secondly, hey mopar put a cooler in that challenger and put some redline c+ in for fluid and quit this chrysler turning engine power into tranny heat and not hp at the rear wheel. With that burnt hot mopar fluid our around town mileage was indicated 14.7 and dropping. Now with the cooler and redline (don't think that j30 flash is responsible) running average dash display tonight is up to 16.6 and probably still climbing. Conditions here the same for some time hot windy drought - wish some of that rain had dropped here and spared others.
  • akcijasakcijas Posts: 13
    How about buying a performance chip? I've never used one, but a friend has and said he noticed the difference. Here's a website that carries them, but there are several:

    Anyone ever use one ?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,253
    edited June 2010
    Naturally aspirated cars built prior to 1996 can sometimes gain 10-25 bhp from a performance chip. Cars built after 1995 don't have a replaceable chip- the ECU either has to be reprogrammed or else "tricked" by adding a "piggyback" computer(not a good solution in my opinion). You'll be lucky to find 8-10 bhp in any case, and you'll most likely need to use premium fuel. The site you linked to is loaded with worthless junk. If you want to try reprogramming I recommend a Hypertech or Superchips unit.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you're wanting a fast car, you shouldn't have bought a Wrangler. :) If you're wanting more power to the wheels, regearing is an option, especially if you'll use it offroad.

    These thing are bricks on the road, even the new JK's. You want power, get a Grand Cherokee with the hemi. My TJ tops at about 80 mph going downhill and that is as fast as I'd care to take it.

  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited June 2010
    More power to do what.
    Climb the rockies, burn up good rubber at a drag strip.
    2010 2dr. Is it 2 or 4 wd, stick or auto, gear ratio.
    2 dr for rockcrawling or another reason. Did you drive an unlimited.
    The unlimited automatic rubicon can pull out without clogging up the highway.
    The unlimited automatic rubicon on the interstate (when tranny is cool and not climbing the rockies) can keep up with our bigger brothers, even through some twisties even climbing and turning them. Trucks from the factory are usually limited to 96mph for reasons. Rubicon mudders have a 99mph rating.
    Windows down last night (92 degrees on dash) back roads coming home from north dallas, no squeek, old mp3's - good feeling.

    Keep the factory intake for now - watch fordings to prevent hydrolock, keep stock restrictive muffler - some say that's the source of some torque. Another forum praises the flashpaq.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Should I add a K&N Air Intake or are there better options?

    The K&N filter allows more air to pass through it than an original filter by increasing the particulate size it allows through. In other words, it allows more dirt into your engine.

    What kind of performance increase are you looking for? Hard to imagine you want a higher top end so I'd guess it's better acceleration you want.
    This is easily achieved by changing the gearing in the axles (go to a higher number ratio), and don't forget to have the speedo corrected.
    You'll increase your acceleration throughout the rev range, not just at the top, and by an amount that will be very apparent, although you will lose a little top end speed.
    If you want to actually increase the power of the engine for some reason, as opposed to the performance of the vehicle, then supercharging or turbocharging are your major options.

    There is no quick chip fix either, just think snake oil. If there was something so cheap and simple don't you think vehicle manufacturers would already be using it?
  • Sorry if I led anyone astray. Late yesterday in this heat it started up again.
    Just put a rubber washer between the base and the sheet metal to try a temp fix. Pulled out the cd for a look see at removing the cowling. Probably the right thing to do but not today.
  • Stopped by Tribe 4X4 and Adam just got his first plates from the machine shop. Even though he was buried in work, somewhow I got him to open the plates (bare steel not even finished). I got the first install of of a plate that fixes the tranny cooler to cross braces in front of and off of the ac cooler. Yeah 2009 with warranty on top of warranty but who wants to waste gas and get less performance and then maybe get something fixed in the future. 18K+ miles and first tranny hiccup was this summer at about 16K miles. Met a 2009 JK with 6K wondering why I bothered. He'll find out later this year or next summer. Got the J31 in the mail today. Been there did that already.
  • budhansenbudhansen Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '06 and my Jeep dealer checked everything and fount no problems. They thought the problem was with the Goodyear Wrangler GS-A original tires and suggested I try another brand. Good luck!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    "New acoustic dampening for the Wrangler and Unlimited models and a solid, removable hard top, should make this Jeep downright tolerable on the highway."

    Revealed: 2011 Jeep Wrangler and Jeep Wrangler Sahara (Straightline)

  • I need to start researching this info myself as many garages and dealerships do not have the answers to my questions. These are misc Q's that I have been trying to answer.

    1. Need suggestions for wheels and tire package deal for the winter - I have a nice set on and plan to switch over to a nice set for winter, as east coast winters are rough. I would like to spend 1200 or less.

    2. My gas pedal (ever since I got the jeep at 60k, (now at 68 k) is loose-- it has a lot of play in it and I am so sick of this already (have only had it for 5 months).
    The last jeep wrangler I had was a 97 and it was not this way.
    I cannot accelerate and go over a bump -smooth or not - the jeep will jerk and make a lot of noise in the front. It is powerful and wants to go and I think this also causes it to jerk even more. When I press on the pedal, I have to take my foot off when I am going over certain things, so this doesn't happen, but then when I step on it again, it still jerks. Sometimes I get to the point where it chugs unless I come to a stop and accelerate again.
    It seems so wrong, and so bad for the jeep. UGH! I was told it is not adjustable, and that is all I have been able to find out so far. I feel like I am ruining this jeep and I want to do something about this. I plan to have it for a long time and feel like it should be in its new stages still.

    3. The front end seems to be loose. I cannot put my finger on what is exactly happening or when, but it doesn't feel tight anymore and feels unsafe when I take turns at higher speeds. Where should I start...or what do I tell my just seems like they think i am crazzzy, but this is all happening.

    4. Tune Up - What should I be sure is done on the wrangler, and how many x a year?

    5. The Soft Top Black Straps have snapped off the bolts that hold them to frame. It doesn't seem like they do that much though. Any suggestions on how to fix or if I need to? Unsure why this happened, unless I am putting the top on wrong.

    6. Grime/Dirt in the front rims - consistently. It comes back within 2-3 days after I wash it :( The rims are really nice and it looks so bad! What could be causing this?

    If you can answer any of these questions, I would appreciate any suggestions, feedback or recommendations!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    1. Personal preference there. I run TrXuS Mud Terrains on stock wheels and love em.
    2. Not sure, but wonder if it was regeared to a numerically higher, which can cause that if you're not used to it. Mine was regeared to 4.88 and it took some getting used to.
    3. Not uncommon if you've lifted the Jeep or it was already lifted. Mine felt squirrely at higher speeds and rather nervous on 2 lane roads with ditches on either side. Putting on adjustable lower control arms in front to fix my castor angle (how the axle is rotated) helped IMMENSELY. It no longer feels squirrely at all.
    4. plugs, wires, distributor cap (if you have one) are all things you can do yourself with a good manual. Mac may have more information. Changing fluids (differentials, transmission, transfer case) on a regular basis is good too. If you bought it used, I'd go ahead and do it so you KNOW when it was done. Radiator flush/fill isn't a bad thing either.
    5. Bestop sells a replacement Replace-a-Top made with sailcloth that is just great!!! If you want to go without the soft top hardware (frame), go with a Viking Fastback top. About the same price.
    6. That grime is likely brake dust. Mine do that too, but not that quickly. A check of the brake pads may be worthwhile to ensure they are still good and not needing replacement. EBC Yellow or Greenstuff pads are a great replacement.

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