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Kia Sedona problems
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Yes, the best place to press when closing the hatch, or any door for that matter, is somewhere along the edge of the door opposite from its hinges.
I read that on the 2002 there may never have been an original rubber gasket between the horizontal piece and the tailgate.
On my 2004 there is (was) a very narrow and thin rubber gasket which has a tendency to shift and/or fall out if someone presses on the bar above the license plate which flexes the tailgate sheet metal.
Didn't get your e-mail, but yes the garage has sorted. It was a faulty exhaust valve on the engine. They aslo put a new tailpipe on. Now it has got it's power back, and hardly
smokes at all. the only thing that I am thinking about now is that the headlights on dip are not very bright. I have bought some new (same watt) bulbs that claim to be brighter, but still sem a bit dim to me compared to my last car. The garage say that if you put higher watt bulbs they cna burn out the wires, so I am thinking of getting some extra lamps, unless I can think of anything else.
brighter, but still seems dim to me (its not my eyesight).
The garage say that it is not good to buy higher watt bulbs,as they can burn out the wires. Any Ides?
Today I got the bad news. Alternator has died. Dealer wants $235 for a new alternator; $35 for a new belt (seems the replacement alternator has a different size pulley hence the need for a new belt) and 3 hours labor for a grand total of $535! They also tried to sell me on a battery too. (Nice try but I told them it was only a day old. It will need to be recharged as it was run completely flat.)
Question #1) Has anyone had Kia work with them to replace the defective alternator for free or reduced price because of the service bulletin? If so, who did you have to talk to?
Question #2) Both Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone list replacement alternators for the Sedona:
Advance Auto Parts
For vehicle: 2002 KIA SEDONA V6 3.5 Liter FI
Part No.12381 Worldwide Imp ALTERNATOR, Reman; 120 Amps; Warranty: 3 Year Limited Warranty, Ships in 1 day, $169.99, $50.00 core
Part No. 13967, Autolite Import IMPORT ALTERNATOR, Warranty: Lifetime Limited Warranty, Ships in 3 days, $104.99
Auto Zone
DURALAST-IMPORT ALTERNATOR for a 2002 KIA TRUCK SEDONA
Unit Price: $126.99, Core Value: $50.00, Part No. 12381 Weight: 7.0 lbs. Warranty: LLT, Availability: Online: Special Order, Store: Special Order
Note: PREMIUM QUALITY REMAN, SOME NEW COMPONENTS.
Has any one tried one of these? How hard is it to install? I’m not afraid of some hard work and have plenty of hand tools, but I would draw the line if the engine has to be partially lifted out or if the A/C system has to be disconnected and recharged. (I have not been able to locate a service manual for the Sedona yet)
I sure would appreciate any feed back on this.
Thanks,
Mark J.
As I said, other than the mpg, it has been a good vehicle.
Burt
See if your state insurance commission can assist you or possibly a local consumers group. I am not sure if you can take action under lemon laws, because I believe that requires a dealer to attempt repair.
In the meantime, file on line complaints at http://www.nhtsa.gov (fed agency that could force Kia to take action if there are others experiencing similar problems), http://www.autosafety.org (consumer group), and http://www.ftc.gov (fed agency that investigates warranty fraud).
Very reasonable price wise. $95 CDN installed
1) 4 sets of strut mounts
2) 3 sets of struts
3) stabilizer links
4) Torsion bars
I have been pretty impressed with the desire to get this fixed btw.
I finally told Kia to stop throwing parts at it and to get a set of chassis ears on it. Chassis ears confirmed it was the struts. I was told by Kia that they would put aftermarket struts on to try to fix it but none were available. I called Monroe and couldn't get the time of day. Gabriel actually got me hooked up with the product designer for Kia cars (amoungst others). He said they were considering having the OEM manufacturer making them for them. Needless to say I think that idea hit the trash can after we talked for a bit.
The designer is now looking for compatible struts in the existing products. He will keep me posted and I will keep all of you posted. BTW after describing the sound to him and when it happens he said it sounds like there isn't enough oil in the struts.
Our 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx developed what must be warped rotors around 10,000 miles. I never took the car in and we are at 26,000 miles now. I'm not even going to have the dealer look at the brakes because I know it wouldn't be a warranty item at this point.
Brakes are a wear item and although rotors should not warp at 20-40k miles, it happens quite often and I don't know of any brands that typically replace/repair warped rotors under warranty.
I called the dealer ship the next business day. Dewey says the alternator has died. Dealer wants $235 for a new alternator; $35 for a new belt (seems the replacement alternator has a different size pulley hence the need for a new belt) and 3 hours labor for a grand total of $535! They also tried to sell me on a battery too. (Nice try but I told him again it was only a day old. It will need to be recharged as it was run completely flat.)
Last Monday I called Dewey and told him to go ahead with the repair. My wife paid for the repair, and drove our Sedona home. She shows me the invoice, and to my shock and dismay they included a new Battery for $79.95 in the invoice for 539.10!
I called Dewey and asked why had installed a battery, which I did not authorize. He said the old one was bad and he did not go over the original quote. I reminded him of our previous conversations about the battery being only 1 day old and it had a 3 year free replacement warranty. He said he remembered that but there was nothing he could do for me. I requested the he take the battery back, and give me my original battery, and refund the $79.95. He refused, stating that I had approved the quote of $535.00. Again I reminded him that he said the $535.00 quote was only for the alternator, new belt and 3 hours labor. He still refused to correct the problem. I asked to speak with his manager. He gave me the number for a Michael White. I called Mr. White and he told me that Dewey had already told him what had happened and he refused to take the battery back and refund the $79.95.
I called Kia’s toll free service number and spoke to a man named Richard. He understood the problem and didn’t understand why the dealership would not take the battery back and refund the money. However that as far as I got with him, he said Kia Corporate doesn’t get involved unless it is a warranty issue. He did say that a letter would be sent on my behalf to Athens Kia and he gave me a case number.
I retuned to the dealership and picked up my original battery and put it on a charger overnight. So far the battery is charging just fine, so I will be able to use it.
I will be pursuing other means to remedy this issue. This is really sad as until now, I had good service from this dealer, but it has been mostly warranty repairs. I have recommended the Kia Sedona to family and friends. Two of which purchased Kia Sedonas. But now, I can not recommend Athens Kia to anyone. And I’m wondering if I should recommend the Sedona anymore.
FWIW...$79 for battery and installation is a good price.
The original battery will be going back in our van. It has passed a load test.
After being refusing to take the battery back and refund my money by both the service manager and the dealership’s general manager, I don't see what a personal appearance would do to remedy the situation.
Yesterday I did get a call back from Kia Consumer affairs. I’ll be calling them back today and see what they can do.
I have also filed a report with the local Better Business Bureau. And if it comes to it, I will take the issue to small claims court.
That being described, here was my problem. I did my oil, filter and air last week. Yesterday I pull into the drive to see this 'patch' under where I parked the night before. I said to myself, 'darn, must not have the oil nut tight' so I sprayed grease eater to eat the oil. THEN I looked at the van. NO oil leak, but a COOLANT leak. One of the clamps mounting these cooling pipes had the most ulcerated cancer rust Ive seen yet. To the point of springing a leak and squirting coolant onto the catalytic conveter. The whole clamp assembly and the pipes welded within. I could/should have gone to the dealer, but I wanted this fixed with out new pipe/clamp assembly. Pretty easy fix. When I saw the second clamp set, there was the rust again, albeit not as bad, so I cut all that garbage out and have a perfect, permanent repair as far as I am concerned. Straight 3/4" heater hose from front pipes to rear pipes, and one plastic clamp I made myself. Cost me about $20 for coolant, 4 clamps and 8' heater hose. I used about 3' times two lines.
Granted I live and drive in Mass. winters, and it WAS 26 degrees yesterday, but I got the van at the end of Feb. 03, so it has only seen TWO full entire winters. Every time I wash, it includes the under carriage. I hope this can help someone else, at LEAST get under and have a looky see for yourself, the worst clamp was directly next to the catalytic converter. Other than that, still running great and perfectly acceptable MPG.
Glad to hear that you were able to fix your problem without any dealer rigamarole involved.
I've got one concern regarding your repair though. Regarding the rusted clamp you said "..to the point of springing a leak and squirting coolant onto the catalytic conveter." as well as "...at LEAST get under and have a looky see for yourself, the worst clamp was directly next to the catalytic converter."
My concern is whether or not your repair is going to survive its proximity to the catalytic convertor come *next* summer when the outside temps are 90+ and you're sitting in stop and go traffic. I'm wondering if the reason there was a metal clamp and pipe there in the first place was just for this reason? Something to think about.
Maybe you'll have to consider devising some kind of tin heat shield between the hose and plastic clamp and the convertor.
Keep us posted on how it goes!
-SM
Unfortunately I was in a pretty pickle. I found the leak Thursday night with a major snow event to happen about six hours later that I HAD to drive in. It was too much of a leak to 'let go' till I could talk to the dealer Sat. or this coming Mon. My MA dealer is great, but they LOVE to tie you up. I had the CD player go bad, and they wanted my WHOLE van from Wed. of one week, till possibly TUESDAY of the next week. For a radio? Over my dead body I told them. So guess what? I went home, took out the stereo and DELIVERED it back to them! They near had strokes LOLOL! Stuttering about "you cant do that", "warranty' blah blah blah but they finally ordered a new one. The look on their faces was so worth the bother. Well thats my funny story for today, thanks again.
NE03
Thanks
Sorry about the problems you're having. You might want to go to the NHTSA website to file a report and/or see if others have had similar problems.
NHTSA: File a Complaint
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Has anyone any experience with either a DIY or after-market-dealer installed remote starter in a Sedona? We have an '05 LX and I'd like to put in a remote starter setup. Don't need a full alarm system although I could tolerate it if it was reasonable and with a remote receiver. I keep thinking the screwy door-lock system might get in the way somehow. (Remote starters aren't much good for warm-ups if you can't keep the doors locked!)
Anyone have handle or success story on what to use for a remote starter and where to get it? Any warranty issues here that anyone KNOWS about or has faced?
Thanx!
Vanner
Telling you to pay for the diagnosis or the repair is ludicrous!
Please keep us posted on your situation. I'm sure we are all very interested in how Kia stands behind its warranty.
That warranty is a main reason many shoppers choose Kia.
How about posting the name, address and phone number of that dealer too? It would be a good warning to owners and shoppers to stay away.
Guess its about time for all of us to dump our Kias if the warranties are no good.
Being told that you need to spend $100 to service your trans even though it may not be the problem does stink. But Kia is not the only brand to employ these sorts of tactics. And they have somewhat of a leg to stand on if the severe service schedule calls for that trans service to have been done by now on a 39k mile van.
In the final analysis, is it really the end of the world for you to spend $100 on preventive maintenance for your van's transmission? Alternatively, you could do the work for maybe $50-60 at an independent shop and that should satisfy the dealer to proceed with the in-warranty investigation of your trans problems. Heck, the dealer might actually be right and maybe the trans service will resolve your problem.
Many manufacturers have the same sort of language regarding 'standard' or 'regular' duty and 'severe service'. Almost everybody falls into the severe service category. This allows the company to tout its long service intervals when most folks will need to do their maintenance more often-- on the 'severe' schedule. This is common practice and you guys shouldn't be going ballistic on Kia about it. Do I agree with it? No. But this isn't just a Kia thing.
What are other dealers charging in other areas?
Thanks
they do not put any time into properly diagnosing problums. i fault KIA warrenty policy for this. time to duplacate a customer complaint appears to have be ok'd by a district rep first or the dealer will not get paid the time involved
next week i am taking my KIA in for some problums two very serious engine related
and i will not accept "can not duplacate problem" this trip.
i am going to tell them to keep the vehicle untill they can
in the mean tine i will be consulting a lemon law firm