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What country are you writing from (I see you're using kilometers)? I would be happy to help you get information on how to contact customer service in your region if you like.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We're sorry to hear about the situation with your son's Impala. Have you contacted Customer Assistance already on this? If you wanted for us to follow up on your dealership with anything, please contact us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, the name of the involved dealership, and a brief recap of the situation).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We can understand that vehicle repairs can be stressful. If you would like for us to check into this further with your dealership or work with you through the process of replacing the transmission, we can be reached via email at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, a brief summary of the situation, and the name of your dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
My husband and I just got burned by a Saturn ion last year...the dealership replaced the motor and security system...but the motor lost 2.5 qts of oil in 16 miles the first day home....and lost a qtr after that fix....my faith in American cars is toast.
We have a 1988 toyota camry that cranks,rolls, with over 250,000 miles on it....and never had any major issue. I may be a dreamer...but to me...I've got my moneys worth from that car...which is how it should be. Good luck!
I can proudly or even sadly say that no less than 10 car buyers have now purchased other brands after hearing my issues and having sent them to the numerous chat ([non-permissible content removed]) groups related to the big three. I will keep preaching this as long as I live!
Hope you are happy screwing your loyal or once loyal customers GM!
This often works wonders on GM transmissions. GM lies about the fluid change interval. Don't let it go for more than 50000 miles. Those sticking components get smooth again when fresh fluid cleans the varnish off.
Recently, I cannot remove the key from the ignition after shutting down while having the car in park. I can leave the key in the ignition and remove everything else from the key and lock the car using the remote, but the key remains in the ignition.
What can I do to remove the key? Also is this covered under warranty since the car has about 85,000 miles? Is GM willing to remain on future car purchase lists for my consideration?
Sarah, GM Customer Service
They both have less than 70,000 miles on them. The same problem. Slipping when getting started. When it's cold it's happens more.
Are these cars still covered by a warranty?
Does anyone else have this problem?
Does anyone have any suggestions for a single female, with no money to spend on a transmission, or any kind of auto repairs for that matter?
From reading all the forums that I have read so far, it seems to me that GM should be held responsible for all these transmission repairs that Impala owners are having to have done, has anyone filed a class action suite against them for these issues?
1)The air intake comes in from behind the drive’s headlight into the engine via the throttle body at the top-drive’s side of the motor. The air filter is located in the area of the intake in front of the drives’ side wheel well under the body support bar which is bolted on top between the front bumper and fender (one on each side of engine compartment). While having a clean air filter is important, I cannot stress enough the importance of making sure the “air box” is properly sealed once it has been opened to inspect/replace the air filter. With the air filter in place you MUST angle the bottom of the box in first so the two plastic feet are locked in place before tohe top is swiveled into place and secured with the two latches at the top. If the bottom is not locked in place your car will not, can not, run properly.
Why? The sensors are located where the air initially enters the intake behind the driver’s headlight. Any air sucked in after these sensors ( i.e.: air filter location if not sealed properly) is not seen by the sensors, causing the modules to ultimately provide incorrect information related to air temp and volume, resulting in awful performance.
2) There seems to be “drift” issues with sensor and motor control sub-systems in many cars, and the 2006 Impala LT is no exception. What this means to you is your car has been lead to believe, via input from the easily over 50 sensors and feedback circuits, that it is running properly . and this is wrong. With nothing to reset this this status the car will continue to run like garbage like mine did.
So
With the car off (works best after car is been driven or warmed up for a few minutes), keys out, doors closed (so dome light is out) and security not enabled (doors not locked), lift the hood. Along the passenger side behind the battery is the fuse box. Remove the cover inside you will see a fuse locator. About one-third of the way down on the right side and directly below the STRTR relay are two fuses. These are the (yellow) 15A ECM/TCM and (red) 10A TRANS.
Removing the 15A ECM/TCM fuse for a minute and then reinserting resets the engine performance to default, allowing the engine to “retrain” itself from an acceptable (powerful) level.
Removing the 10A TRANS fuse for a minute and then reinserting will reset transmission values and, unbelievably, the slip disappears/ diminishes drastically.
I have done this periodically for well over 50k miles and have never hurt/blown a body, engine, or transmission control module. Replace the fuse box cover, start it up, and take it on a test drive.
Thanks gor the info.
I'm sorry to see that you're experiencing this issue with your vehicle. May I be of assistance to you in finding a resolution for this concern? If you would send your full name, address, current mileage and VIN number to socialmedia@gm.com, I would be glad to research some options that may be available to you. I look forward to working with you.
Marlea Wilson
GM Customer Service
Next few days I had the transmission filter change and it drove okay for like 2 days. I got on the highway to head back to work and after almost 40 minutes of driving it stopped again. If I turn it off it will start to go but not for long. the engine will keep running but it won't move.
I was told it could be a sensor; it could be a bad transmission; it could be my fuel pump; the torque converter needs to be cleaned or flush. Can anybody help me please? I lost my job because of no transportation and I really need to get my car fixed. Thanks!!
What symptoms was your trans producing? I can't find your previous communications.
We'll do our best to try and help you with your concerns. Please feel free to email us at socialmedia@gm.com [Attn Amber], and we will happily address any issues you are experiencing.
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
Marlea Wilson
GM Customer Service
stop. The red light still a bit ahead, so id coast into it and while i coast in to intersection where the light is, the light turns green before i stop completely. Coasting at about 10 - 15mph Approximately, i then began to accelerate since the light signaled green and when first applying the gas to accel you can instantly feel the hesitation. Nothing reacts or engages for a quick second or two after you apply the gas. Then, it just grabs something and sticks making a pretty good loud unhealthy clunk.
I really need help pinpointing this issue, and diagnosing it. I need to fix it ASAP.
The research iv come across, i keep hearing to drain the trans fluid and replace the filter.
I can get used trans for about 250-300 with ranging around 100,000miles
Im hoping someone has some trick up thier sleeve for me, or some suggestion. Help me give the trans i got a little TLC and keep her operating till it just wont anymore.
atleast till i can shop for around.
ANYTHING.
SOME ONE HELP. Lets put our minds together my friends.
Keep it simple for me, where do i start?
and where do i go from there? ect.
I appriciate your time. PLEASE HELP. Illl return the favor happily.
So, the following is worth repeating... and it costs nothing to try.
-With the car off (works best after the car has been driven and warmed up), keys out, doors closed (so dome light is out) and security not enabled (doors not locked), lift the hood.
-In the engine compartment, along the passenger side behind the battery, locate the fuse box.
-Remove the cover, and inside the cover you will see a fuse locator. About one-third of the way down on the right side and directly below the STRTR relay is the (red) 10A TRANS.
-Removing the 10A TRANS fuse for a minute and then reinsert.
-Replace the cover, shut the hood, start the car, let it sit for a minute or two. and take it for a drive.
-Removing/replacing the fuse reset transmission values and, unbelievably, the slip disappears/ diminishes drastically.
-It may work best on your car as bit differently. May need to do it while tranny is cold, maybe while warm but don't drive again untli cooled down, maybe manually shift through gears with foot on brake while sitting and waiting for car to warm up (before inital test drive only) ... but it will NEVER run worse and ALWAYS runs (shifts) better... and its free.
After reading all of the posts I see that my vehicle (2004 Chevy Impala) has the same transmission problem as the others. I bought my vehicle brand new and take very good care of it more the reason why I was surprised that I started having problems with it.
I have been a loyal GM customer since 2004, I hope you would be able to direct me to someone who may assist me?
Thanks,
Edgar
Thank you for making me aware of your transmission problems. I can definitely do more research on your concerns to see what can be done to address the issue you are experiencing. If you could please email me your VIN, exact mileage, contact information, and dealership to socialmedia@gm.com [Attn Amber], we can try to work towards resolving your concerns. I look forward to hearing from you.
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
Thank you for making me aware of your transmission problems. I can definitely do more research on your concerns to see what can be done to address the issue you are experiencing. If you could please email me your VIN, exact mileage, contact information, and dealership to socialmedia@gm.com [Attn Amber], we can try to work towards resolving your concerns. I look forward to hearing from you.
Amber N.
GM Customer Care
I was toying with the idea to by a Camaro, but after this and GM's none assistance with this problem that their tranny's fail I need to rethink buying a Camaro. I might need to answer the call of the Mustang calling me. Any help would be wonderful.
Now, at 129K miles on the car, 11,633 on the rebuilt tranny, it's parked.
A couple of weeks ago I noticed that while on cruise, on the highway, the tax would jump and I could feel the car's engine rev up a bit. Friday, it did it a lot more than average. Then, while pulling out of a driveway - slowly - after putting it in drive, suddenly I felt (and my family sitting outside HEARD) a very loud POP!! I put it in park, got out to check if I hit anything. Nada. Then I tried to drive. Pushed the gas pedal, nothing. Not even a change on the RPMs. I put it in reverse, then back in drive, it went forward a few feet and then out of nowhere, POP!!!! And boom - unable to drive again. Hubby checked/changed CV joints, which were fine. The tranny is now making a loud winding/grinding noise.
My concern is - am I going to have to keep investing in this transmission over and over? I mean, could there be something CAUSING the transmission to mess up, if that's what's going on? Like a domino effect? And if not, what could this be? Am I looking at a steep hill to climb here? Anyone know what this could be?