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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • killsmicekillsmice Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Impala and had a similar problem with the headlights and dash lights.
    My fix was to replace the Body Control Module. "BCM"
  • djch2009djch2009 Member Posts: 2
  • djch2009djch2009 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Chevy Impala LS. I recently have been having problems with the keyless entry. The remote will not work when I want to unlock the car. After I use the key to get in the car the and physically open the door the remote will work. When I shut the door and get out of the car I am able to use the remote. After a couple of minutes the remote will not work. I have tried two different remotes and I have the same problem. Any help would be great.

    Chris
  • nathanialthnathanialth Member Posts: 1
    For the last few months my air bag light stays on the when the car is started. Recently I have gotten numerous ABS/Trac Off and Service Traction System messages. Both front wheel hubs have been replaced (one had frayed wires) but this did not correct the problem with the traction lights. Could the frayed wires short out the BCM? What exactly does the BCM on the 2002 Impala LS control? I guess I am lucky that I don't have the passlock problem or the leaking intake manifold yet...

    I have almost every other one though:
    Hazard button/blinker shorting problem
    Transmission hard shifts
    Service Traction System with trac off/abs lights
    Service engine soon (stuck thermostat)
    Accessory outlet in front does not work
    Steer shaft rattles
    Break wearing problems (all four)
    Warped Rotors (rear)
    Head lights randomly shut off / multifunction switch broken
    Heated seat driver side dead
  • jomu00jomu00 Member Posts: 2
    hey i was wondering if any one helped u out with your issue with my keyless entry.i am having the same exact issue with my 06 ss and cant seem to find any thing else about this. if u can send me anything than can help it would be appriteated.
    email- tmurtha2@yahoo.com
  • popsuppopsup Member Posts: 2
    12/2001 Impala is having the exact same problem only surfaces when the car has sat in the hot sunlight. Changed the 1yr old battery no help.Changed the relay for the Battery overvoltage 14vdc powerlogic relay, I changed relay in the garage car cooled took out on a trip a had to drive 30 miles back after car sat in sun 2 hrs with the relay going nuts located in the passenger glove box, as were the interoir lights go on/off when door is opened glove box opened caused relay to go crazy. radio also is LOCKED> No A/C will work. The Battery Light, Check Coolant Level, Service Engine soon light all on. As we pulled into the garage and the headlights were flashing on/off.
  • killsmicekillsmice Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem with my 2003 Impala.
    My problem was the Body Control Module. (BCM)
  • firetrainerfiretrainer Member Posts: 2
    My '05 Impala has run pretty well overall since I purchased it new in 2005. It has 74k on the odo. However, about 2 weeks ago a strange electrical problem occurred and continues. The radio (XM/AM/FM/CD) started making poping noises from the speakers:
    -XM would blank out, change channels then cutout entirely.
    -AM/FM/CD would work. Then the AM/FM/CD would start doing the same.
    -Low or no volume and total shutdown of the radio.
    -Fuses are ok.
    -Onstar is in the vehicle but I do not subscribe.
    -The problem does not appear to be stopped or repeatable by tapping, moving bumping the radio.
    I removed the unit, checked the plugs and wiring and did not see any problems.
    I took the car to a local well known and reliable AC Delco authorized repair shop. They placed the radio on the bench and found "numerous" codes in the radio including a "Class 2" trouble code, which apparently refers to a loss of communication to the BCM. They cleared the codes with their TECH II, reinstalled the radio and connected the TECH II again and found no codes present. The techs also looked at the amp in the trunk between the speakers and told me it was not the problem type of amp they have worked on before. The problem seemed resolved until it started again. I also disconnected the Onstar module in the trunk. Radio worked fine for several days then started again. The spooky thing is now the speakers in the car will emit popping and motor boating sounds with radio off, no keys in ignition by opening the door. It is a random problem. I have seen posts regarding the BCM as a possible cause of numerous electrical problems. Could it be the BCM or wiring somewhere in the car?

    Sorry for the long post-hopefully someone will recognize the symptoms and provide some clues as to the problem.

    Thanks!

    Bill
  • trommietrommie Member Posts: 2
    initially i had a problem with the security light flashing and then my car wouldn't start. i had to wait 10 minutes for it to start back up. that's been happening for about a year. now for the past couple of weeks, the battery light and headlights flash. it does this the whole time i'm driving and after i park it won't stop until i use the keyless entry to lock the doors. i was told (no diagnostic) by a mechanic that this is a passlock issue and that bypassing the passlock will resolve it. i was told that getting a remote starter would solve the issue since a bypass module has to be installed with the remote starter system. i got this done yesterday. i remote started the car and no flashing lights. as soon as i turned the key to the on position, the battery light and headlights were flashing. what could be causing this and how can i fix it???
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    You need to replace the BCM (Body control module)

    I had the same problem with my 2002 Impala. Headlights flashing and dashlights blinking. Once the new BCM was installed everything was fine. Brace your self for a $400. repair bill!
  • trommietrommie Member Posts: 2
    I thought the BCM was the problem, but I was hoping there would be another solution. I just don't understand why GM hasn't recalled these cars for BCM failures. It seems like a very common problem with GM vehicles.
  • kboyd630kboyd630 Member Posts: 2
    I have 02 mpala 114,000 miles and have had some of the problems in the the threads here but not all. radio changes everytime you turn the car on, volume of radio does not change to match noise, gas needle lately has been up and down. clicking and car wouldnt start(ended up being the battery)

    Yesterday my ABS light came on and i heard the pulsing of the brakes. The light has went off and came back during the same drive. heard pulsing while i was turning but not every time. any help on what a fix for this is or how serious this problem is.
  • firetrainerfiretrainer Member Posts: 2
    Problem was water under the passenger seat (under carpet) from a leak in firewall. Snow must have gotten in through the leak and settled on the floor pan. Electrical connection between radio and booster amp corroded and made an intermittent connection. Dealer found problem and fixed connection. Fire wall leak was apparetly from cables I pulled through for my vehicle's electronic siren, emergency lighting and power connections. My bad!

    My '05 Impala has run pretty well overall since I purchased it new in 2005. It has 74k on the odo. However, about 2 weeks ago a strange electrical problem occurred and continues. The radio (XM/AM/FM/CD) started making poping noises from the speakers:
    -XM would blank out, change channels then cutout entirely.
    -AM/FM/CD would work. Then the AM/FM/CD would start doing the same.
    -Low or no volume and total shutdown of the radio.
    -Fuses are ok.
    -Onstar is in the vehicle but I do not subscribe.
    -The problem does not appear to be stopped or repeatable by tapping, moving bumping the radio.
    I removed the unit, checked the plugs and wiring and did not see any problems.
    I took the car to a local well known and reliable AC Delco authorized repair shop. They placed the radio on the bench and found "numerous" codes in the radio including a "Class 2" trouble code, which apparently refers to a loss of communication to the BCM. They cleared the codes with their TECH II, reinstalled the radio and connected the TECH II again and found no codes present. The techs also looked at the amp in the trunk between the speakers and told me it was not the problem type of amp they have worked on before. The problem seemed resolved until it started again. I also disconnected the Onstar module in the trunk. Radio worked fine for several days then started again. The spooky thing is now the speakers in the car will emit popping and motor boating sounds with radio off, no keys in ignition by opening the door. It is a random problem. I have seen posts regarding the BCM as a possible cause of numerous electrical problems. Could it be the BCM or wiring somewhere in the car?

    Sorry for the long post-hopefully someone will recognize the symptoms and provide some clues as to the problem.

    Thanks!

    Bill
  • impaledimpaled Member Posts: 7
    We just inherited a 2002 Chevy Impala and just broke 40K miles last weekend. Two days ago, I go to start the car....nothing happens. Dash is lit up with SECURITY, SERVICE NEEDED, etc. but neither the A/C nor radio came on. Attempted to jump...still nothing. Have car towed to the local Chevrolet dealership, they tell me the BCM won't talk to their computer and that they won't know anything until that is replaced. They replace it, drive it and check everything out to make sure everything else is alright. They say it's fixed...I pick it up drive it home. The very next time I go to start it up (the following a.m.), it won't start!! This time the A/C and radio are on. Naturally, I call the dealership since I just dropped $500 plus the day before. They tow it back at their expense. Two hours later, I get a call that the "battery is deader than dead" and they'll be *happy* to replace it for $200 and I can pick it up in 45 minutes LOL. Oh, and the guy asked me if the tech mentioned my battery was weak the day before. Um, no...

    I can't help but think that this was the original problem and they misdiagnosed. Too coincidental for them to fail at the same time.My fear is I'm going to replace the battery and then discover there is something else amiss.

    Hopefully, this post isn't so old that no one responds!

    Thank you!
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I purchased my 2002 Impala, new from a dealership in Oct of 2001. I did not purchase the extended warranty and my BCM went bad right around 40,000 miles.
    The car wasn't even 3 years old but it had over 36000 miles on it so the warranty was expired. I paid $360 to have the BCM replaced and I fought with GM Customer Service and they agreed to refund me for half the repair costs. About a year later my Passlock sensor burned out. That was about $400.00 to replace. I had to replace my headlight hi/lo beam combination switch because the headlights would go out when I switched to high beams. This is really unsafe when you are driving down the highway at nite and your headlights go out!
    Chevy should have recalled both the BCMs and Combination Switches!
    Also my intake manifold was leaking so I had to add a can of stop leak in the radiator.
    It was cheaper than paying the Chevy Dealership $600 to replace the gasket.

    Chevy's are total junk!! :lemon:
    I am disgusted that our tax dollars are bailing them out!
    I will by [non-permissible content removed] Cars from now on!! Detroit hasn't built a decent car since 1967!
    My 1967 Chevelle Malibu was more reliable than my 2002 Impala!!
    :mad:
  • impaledimpaled Member Posts: 7
    Wow! I had a feeling this was the beginning of a long road of problems. This car is in pristine condition - despite the age. Super-clean engine, single owner, no accident history, etc.

    What are your thoughts on the fact that I replaced the BCM and the very next day the battery was "deader than dead". Just seems odd that they checked everything when I was there and the very next time I go to start it after taking it home from the dealership - it won't start! Do you think there is any possibility it was a false diagnosis? I just needed a new battery NOT a BCM? Or is just like this one thing after another fails....

    I want to sell it and buy a Honda, Toyota...even a Nissan would be better than this aggravation!

    Thanks for replying!!
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    The thing with any car is that it will start to have problems as it gets older. Doesn't matter if it is a Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Chevy, etc. Honda/Acura has had transmission issues, as has Toyota. Nissan also has some known issues with some of their models.

    My '06 Impala has just about 42,500 miles on it. I bought it new 3 years ago.

    While it was still under warranty, it needed its fair share of repairs. Brakes, power steering, steering shaft, water pump. There were also some other repairs I could have had done under warranty, but elected to avoid the hassle. The problems were frustrating, but were resolved. I have been car shopping, and have included some GM models on my list.

    My parents had an '03 Impala LS. They put about 43,000 miles on it and had no issues other than 1 recall. They wanted something new and traded it a couple of years ago.

    In the past 20 years I have owned 10 cars. Overall, the GMs and Chryslers were the most reliable of the bunch. The Ford vehicles I owned were a disaster. The VW I had was a waste of time and money.

    Buying a car is purely luck of the draw from any manufacturer. You will either get a good example, or a problematic one.

    impaled - the dealer you went to should have tested the battery as part of the original repair. A bad battery would have shown up at that time. You may want to work with the dealer and see if they would agree to split the cost of the new battery. Realistically, they should share in the cost of replacing it considering they failed to properly diagnose the problem and gave the car back to you with a bad part that immediately left you stranded. A new battery should not cost $200.00. The battery itself should be around $75, installation should take no more than 1/2 hour...maybe another $50 labor at the most.

    I don't think the cars themselves are totally to blame. The dealers who cannot properly repair vehicles are also a factor.
  • impaledimpaled Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the good advice, ryster. You're right.....it's the luck of the draw. I just happen to also own a 2000 Honda Civic Coupe that has 128K miles and has never given me any problems. Then again, no BCM in that car :)

    I left the car at the dealership over the weekend. The big boss will be there tomorrow. Hopefully, the issue will be resolved quickly. Why do these things always happen right before a road trip?!
  • fedup16fedup16 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 chevy Impala and so far has been a fairly good car. However, late last year I started having problems with my signal lights and the hazardous light switch. So i took it to the shop & got the hazardous light button replaced and the signal lights worked fine. However, a couple of months ago my signal lights were not working again and my high beams wouldn't stay on either so, I took it the shop and got the turn signal switch replaced which I believe ,they call it a multi-functional switch and my signal lights were working great. Now my signal lights are not working once again and when I try to turn my signal on it makes a buzzing noise and my airbag light, battery light and brake light comes on. Any clue to what this could possibly be? Be aware that everything else is working on the car. I replaced my battery today and my alternator is just fine being that I got it tested as well. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated being that every trip to the shop is at least 350+.
  • kdconodkdconod Member Posts: 53
    I had to replace the hazard switch on my Impala 2000. I did not have any of the other problems you mention. Could it be possible you got a bad switch? It might be worth replacing it again. To save money you can do it yourself. I have step by step instructions on Flickr:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/93599926@N00/sets/72157602620999931/

    The air bag light etc might be due to the bad switch. I seem to recall something odd that the signals are on the same circuit as the airbag sensor.
  • kdconodkdconod Member Posts: 53
    The hazard switch is GM part #10359031. Costs about $45.

    GM Parts
  • impaledimpaled Member Posts: 7
    I posted earlier about replacing my BCM because the car wouldn't start. Then the very next day, the car wouldn't start! Dealership said it needed a new battery.

    Anyway, went in this a.m. to talk to the service manager and he sold us a battery at a discounted price of $59.99 and didn't charge anything for installation/labor. Hopefully, all problems are solved :)
  • fedup16fedup16 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone happen to have step by step instuctions on how to open the steering column in order to replace the turn signal switch. Its called a multi-functional switch but it is the switch you use to turn your signals on and off and for your high beam as well. So it is the the lever that comes off of your steering column on the left hand side, NOT the hazardous button switch. Im needing to replace turn signal lever so anyones instructions are appreciated....Thanks in advance......
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    My interior rear view mirror went up in smoke one day, and since that time I've had a never ending battle with my lighting system. There are 5 wires going to the mirror. The mirror has a left and right reading light, a sensor aimed at the rear window to automatically dim the mirror, and another pointing straight ahead on the front of the mirror.
    I found a used but good mirror, replaced it, and it works great. But, to have high beams, I must hold the dimmer switch up manually else they go out again. My DRL (daytime running lights) will work only after I rigged a 12 V
    bulb over the ambient light sensor on top of the dash. It's located in the drivers side defroster grille. Naturally the box must be sealed so as not to hinder your night time vision, but with small airholes to disperse the heat from the bulb. I was told that the BCM was good if I heard the chimes for different events on the car, I do hear the chimes. Man, I need help. Thanking you in advance,
    Pintail
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    Chevy (Impala) has a very poorly designed plug on the back of the interior rear view mirror, it seems very loose.
    Try (gently) wiggling that plug during the time when your problem arises. I had a very similar problem with my 2005 Impala.
    My sensor that darkens the rear view mirror (from cars behind me) wouldn't work, nor would the reading lights in the mirror itself. To this day I have a small, hidden, plastic tie holding the wires to the mirror, snug against the arm for the mirror, it's now working fine.
    Pintail
  • dmontedmonte Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my signal lights not working and buzzing with the same dash warning lights going off although I am also not able to start the car at times and the computer shuts down the car on its own. the only way to start my car is to put it in neutral and start it. I'm eager to see what responses you get...Please also keep me informed if you learn something new to do and or how to replace the signal switch. Thank you.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    Blinking dash board lights and buzzing is probably a defective BCM.

    The turn signals not working could be a defective turn signal combination switch or a defective hazard button switch. If the turn signals start working once you push the hazard button, that would indicate a short in the Hazard switch. If you check one of the earlier postings, someone actually put a link showing how to replace the hazard switch.

    Good luck!
  • fedup16fedup16 Member Posts: 3
    I had put my car in the shop this past week. I explained to them that I felt like it had something to do with the signal lever they replaced previously. They of course said they would look at it and if there was any malfunction on there behalf, that they would fix it free of charge. Of course, no mechanic is completely honest and damn sure doesn't want to admit that they messed up and fix your car for free. So anyways I was told that I had a bad wire connection and that they had to take the whole dash out to get to the wires. Funny thing about it is that they couldn't tell me which side of the dash the wires were messed up on...Funny huh? So anyhow they said they replaced the wires and connectors and I ended up spending 170.00. I was actually expecting to pay more. But now my car is fine for the time being......
  • kboyd630kboyd630 Member Posts: 2
    update from post 318 ABS issue fixed the problem ended up being a connected came loose under the driver side front wheel not sure how it happened but the connector broke loose and that is probably when the light started to stay on all the time. During that same shop trip i also had to have the mechanic look into why the Air would only blow when it felt like it. that ended up being a blower motor it had become rusted and had to tapped on to get it to even come on for the mechanic all is fixed now.
  • dlewdlew Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 3.8ltr, 110k, I have had the car for a year or so. Just notice over the past few months the reverse lights will illuminate while the car is off (no key in the ignition)Its does it on in off all day going dim to bright, if I don't use the car within a day or two it drains the battery. Can someone help me
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    fedup16
    I have a 2005 Impala and I could tell you how to replace the turn signal/dimmer switch on that car, only because I spent $16.00 on a manual from a auto parts store. Really helpful. You have to be careful in dis-arming the airbag, driver side and passenger side. After reading the manual I purchased, I wouldn't hesitate taking on the job myself. Mine is a "Haynes Repair Manual", spells it all out in there.
    Good luck.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I replaced the turn signal combination switch on my 2002 Impala. You will need a steering wheel puller. Autozone has free rentals if you need one.
    Turn the ignitin key off. Disarm the air bag by removing the SDM fuse from the fuseblock located at the left side of dash.
    If you turn the key back on and the airbag light comes on you know you removed the correct fuse.
    It is a tricky job to replace the combination switch and you have to fish some wires thru some tight spots. It took me a couple hours to do the job but I probably saved $300. dollars in labor by doing it myself. ;)
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    When I lift the dimmer switch lever, I assume that sends a message to a relay that turns on my high beams, and, is that relay suppose to stay activated until I lift the dimmer switch lever again? I know that while my DRL's are on, I should still be able to signal for passing with my high beams, but they come back down to DRL's again upon releasing the dimmer switch lever. I'm thinking: It doesn't necessarily mean that the dimmer switch itself is bad does it? Could it be just a relay on the drivers end of the dash OR under the hood in one of the two fuse boxes there?
    Right now I have a tiny box on top of the dash by the drivers side defroster vent. I took the ambient light sensor out of it's socket, put it in that box with two 12 V bulbs (false daylight) just to get my DRL's to work. W/O that box, my lights will not come on at all. Plus, it must be out of "PARK" to have any lights. My high beams work as long as I hold the dimmer switch lever up. Grrrrrrrrrr
    Boy, do I need help, thank you,
    pintail4
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    I think you may have a very small "Ambient light sensor" on top of your dash, on the right end of the defroster vent. When it's dark out, try holding a flashlight pointed directly into that sensor. See if your dash lights come on brighter. I have a similar problem and placed a constant light source over that sensor, just to get the DRL (daytime running lights)to work. Mine is a 2005 so I'm not sure if they have the same sensor in the same location. Good luck.
    pintail4
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    Reset the oil light. Real simple. It can be done through the radio, or, with the key on, pump the brake peddal three time within 5 seconds. No need to slam it down, just pump them the 3 times in 5 seconds
    pintail4
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Name-calling and uncivil behavior isn't helpful. Posts that have stepped over that line and their responses have been removed.
  • bramsey1bramsey1 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you ever received an answer to this post yet? I have just started having the same issues. Please email me at luvkayla247@yahoo.com.

    Thanks so much!
  • jamesjimmyjjamesjimmyj Member Posts: 1
    My High beam on my Chevy Impala 2002 are stuck, I dont have enough to go to the shop. Any suggestions how to fix.

    James
  • pintailpintail Member Posts: 7
    Hello Karen, I hope you aren't thinking that I was namecalling on here or being abusive to anyone. I know exactly the incident you are refering to though. What I think was a young kid on here, writing to another party and bragging about the fancy cars he drives and so on. I think his remarks were directed at "revjim". The kid called him stupid, and I did, at that time, write back to the kid and told him he has no right to call anyone stupid, especially since he don't even know revjim.
    I don't talk abusively to anyone on here. Please believe me.
    Have a great day...........................................pintail4
    pintail4@cpinternet.com
  • ladyrae79ladyrae79 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Chev Impala. My heat and air settings only work on setting High (5). Both of the lights in my back seat do not light up. My blinker in the front does not blink it just stays lit up when blinker switch is used (Left turn signal in front only). All this has accumulated slowly over the last year. Any ideas on how to fix one or all? I would greatly appreciate any ideas!
  • kdconodkdconod Member Posts: 53
    Re: your blinker it could be the hazard/blinker switch has gone bad. The hazard switch is GM part #10359031. Costs about $45.

    Here's instructions on how to fix it without removing the dashboard:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/93599926@N00/sets/72157602620999931/
  • killsmicekillsmice Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Impala that had the same heater problem.
    The switch is a computer chip that is probably fried.
    Mine cost $100 to have replaced.

    I also had a problem with my blinker, but mine just was just faster than normal.
    I only had to replace a bulb.
  • tricanmantricanman Member Posts: 1
    I own an 04 Impala and the problems have started to compound on me at 80,000 miles a new problem every week. It is unfortunate because i love this car. First is my speedometer has stopped working, going up but not coming back down causing it to wrap to the "D" for drive. Turn signal's sometimes work, which i read on one of your post how to fix (and thank you) but this new one scares me a burning wire smell coming from my vents mainly when it is on defrost any idea's would be most helpful. Note i will be fixing it myself if possible due to being a student so detail would be great too. Thanks
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    You may have to change out the combination switch. If you have an Autozone nearby you can rent the steering wheel puller for free. You probably can find an aftermarket combination switch on E-bay that will work just fine. I think the dealer price for the switch is 250-300 dollars. The aftermarket version is about $150.
    Good luck!!
  • polymeshpolymesh Member Posts: 4
    2001 Impala (3.8L). I am experiencing many similar problems to posts here and have read through all of them to get an idea of where to start. Basically none of the posts are exactly what I am experiencing. I am assuming I will have to replace my BCM and possibly my hazard switch. But for those that replaced their BCM then later discovered that was not the problem, please chime in here so I don't waste $$$! From what I read, I may also benefit from buying a new battery...and maybe an ignition switch? please tell me if I am headed in the right direction!

    Here are my symptoms:
    When vehicle is recently turned off, interior and headlights flicker on for a short time, then off for a few seconds,, this repeats until about the time that the lights would normally turn off naturally or when I lock the doors keylessly. There is a clicking sound that comes from the passenger dash which clicks at the same frequency. I do not experience battery drain as some people.

    When vehicle is keylessly unlocked the flickering previously mentioned begins again along with the clicking.

    when car ignition is started, interior and exterior lights continue to flicker as above. The interior lights stop flickering about the time that the interior lights should normally turn off, headlights keep flickering until I manually turn them on by pulling the knob on the left of the steering wheel. For safety reasons, I now always turn the lights on manually. Often the climate control (AC/heat/fan) as well as the information center thingy above the rear view mirror, do not work.

    The information center thingy usually turns on within a minute of having the car started (time varies), when it finally comes on the AC/heater starts working as well.

    Also when the car is on, I get a service engine soon light. There are NO error codes reported from ODB2 readers. Occasionally I also get a HIGH BEAM OUT message (still no ODB2 code), however my highbeams work fine when I use them.

    very infrequently (maybe 5 or so times in the last year) the turn signals stop working. I haven't yet tried enabling the hazard lights to see if that fixes it, because usually they start working within a minute of driving.

    Since this started over a year ago, It seemed less frequent and only happened when the car was well warmed up or it was hot outside. It now is pretty consistent.

    Any pointers are appreciated!
  • beckymcbethbeckymcbeth Member Posts: 2
    I was just wondering if you had figured out what was wrong with you car and he headlights. I am having the same problem and don't have much money to fix it, so looking for all the help i can get. thanks.
    please send reply to becky.mcbeth@yahoo.com
  • shadow5599shadow5599 Member Posts: 101
    I dont have the problem but I'd suggest to anyone who has strange electrical issues to change the battery as the 1st thing you try. If the battery is closing in on being 5 years old then it needs it anyway.
  • beckymcbethbeckymcbeth Member Posts: 2
    the battery is new, it was replaced about 4 months ago, before the problem even started
  • polymeshpolymesh Member Posts: 4
    So I had the BCM replaced by the dealer after taking it to a mechanic and he told me that was my only option. He charged me 50$ for diagnostics/testing.

    The dealership charged me about $550 to replace/program a new BCM. It might be cheaper to purchase one somewhere else and bring it to them to program, and then install it yourself (not sure how hard that is since I didn't do that. I was mislead at the dealer to think it was $350 including installation, not so.)

    I think all they need to program it is your VIN number and a key for that? The BCM looks like an old game cartridge for a NEO GEO game system. I kept my old one just in case the new one didn't work. (you have to ask for that)

    After they installed the new BCM, electrical problems all went away. 2 days later, the car would not start and the battery was dead and would not jump.

    One month before having the BCM replaced, I had the battery tested and I was told it was fine. 2 days after replacing BCM, I went to the same place that tested it before and they said it was bad, only putting out 10 volts. It was about 5 yrs old (7 yr battery) purchased from the dealer.

    Got a new 7 yr battery ($100), things have been working great, except now I get an airbag light every once in a while. Plan on doing research on that next as it seems somewhat unrelated... at least I passed inspection before the airbag light started popping up.

    I'm tempted, now that I have a new battery, to put in the old BCM and see if the symptoms went away... let me know how hard it is to replace if you go that rout!

    (about $700 total)
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    It is possible that the new BCM is Defective. You can not change the BCM on your own unless you buy a $1200 scan/programmer tool. (This tool lets you punch in the vin number)
    I would have the dealer run a code scan on it to see if the new BCM is bad.

    Another common problem with Impalas are defective "Passlock" sensors.

    If you try to turn the key and nothing happens, than the Passlock sensor is defective. Good luck!! :confuse:
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