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They need to be the same size (external as well as internal) have all the same mounting points for engine mounts and accessories, and be compatible with the same internal/external accessories (manifolds, fuel injection, etc). I need to find out which toyota's (or lexus) used the SAME EXACT ENGINE as my 96 v6 camry! I am not a mechanic or expert but I want to find a part for my mechanic to have a easy job and not tell me this is not compatible! I know that IF 1 engine uses the same timing belt as another, they are probably pretty similar, but does that mean they are exact drop in replacements??? :confuse:
I have a 2002 Camry with a 2.4l 5th digit E engine. The engine is fried. I am replacing the engine and was told the 2002 Solora uses the exact same engine and I would not need a conversion kit to install it. Is this correct?
By the way Toyota would not even talk to me about the engine. It had 31k on it.
If you see the letters and numbers on the engine, they are slightly different. If you get the exact same numbers and letters, say a 3MZ from a Highlander into a 3MZ engine of a Camry, it is 99% same engine, everything. But a 3VZ is not exactly the same as an 3MZ but close.
I beleive a Lexus is a different layout, and called a 2MZ. Still a V-6, but rearwheeldrive. Only the blocks will be compatible, you could still use it. The mounts and everything need to be swapped over to the block.
I had this problem twice on my former '97 Camry 4-cylinder. The first time was at 57K miles, just before the powertrain warranty expired. The seals were replaced for free. The next time it started at 102K miles. I didn't get the car repaired and sold it at 111K miles with a disclosure about the problem. I didn't sell the car because of the smoking but because I wanted side curtain airbags on the newer model Camrys.
Is it smoking just at startup - worn valve seals
or is it smoking all the time - worn piston rings
two totally different problems/solutions.
What else is going on with the car (ie, overall condition, recent repairs, other problems outstanding....)
Thanks
Steve
And then you can give your 98 Camry to your girlfriend and she can spend the money to fix it.
Regards,
David
The part is ~$900 and the labor ~$300 which makes this a big decision.
I would like to know if the recommendation by the service manager is valid, how I can best confirm or deny this and where I should get the work done if it is really needed.
The first attempt to fix was at the dealer himself, who did some mundane things like topping off the oil levels and cleaning the vvt-i sensor etc - didnt work. Then they spoke to the Toyota Technical Engineers and gathered time-consuming diagnostics and then went it to open up the engine to change some washers and all - that didnt work either. The third time they fiddled around with the timing cam-shaft and they are again back at square one. This time they assured me that a Toyota Head Engineer will personally take a look at the car to see what's going on. Today's cars are so mechanized and computer-managed, that it sounds super strange that someone needs to look at the physical car... anyway my concern is the fact that their approach (even with Toyota Tech involved) has mostly been hit and trial and I am not sure if I want to drive it again... it has about 40K miles on it...and I am thinking I rather get it out of my hands before I add more miles to it... I dont even know if all of these engine troubles would show up on the car fax.....
this is my first car and i have no experience dealing with such issues... any suggestions would greatly help. Thanks.
- Sandeep
We very recently had the engine replaced on our 1999 Camry (V4; it had 110,000 miles on it) while on a trip. There were some issues with the repair that have been resolved, but our local mechanic is having a very hard time solving one last problem they found. The car has been in the shop locally since last Monday (7/18/11).
The mechanics that installed the used engine do not know the exact year of the engine, but it is matched based on the vehicle VIN when the part is sourced. The manager said it was probably the 2.2L engine and within a year or two of 1999. The engine meets federal emissions standards, not California’s (as would be expected). They used the existing wiring harness from our car, as it is part of the engine block. The only new parts listed were the water pump, plugs, wires and timing belt. So my guess would be that the other items were transferred from our old engine.
Otherwise the vehicle drives fine (according to our local mechanic).
It is not the crankshaft sensor as it produced the expected square wave. They were initially pretty confident on this being the source of the problem on last Tuesday evening.
It is not the timing belt. It checked out fine.
They do not think it is a sensor issue since there are no electronic codes coming back so that is why they think it is a timing issue.
A few things they are considering:
1. Non-iridium sparkplugs were installed in the tune-up of the engine.
2. The fuel pump/pressure gauge.
In talking to the mechanic on Friday, he mentioned that the MAP sensor was reading 5-6 Volts? mV? (whatever the units are, but he said it was voltage) high. The upshot being that the vacuum in the engine at this level rpm (4200) is too high.
One of the problems is testing it at this rpm level since it is that accelerating up to highway speeds is the only thing that seems to cause it. I myself did not notice it while driving it home. Another compication is that there are no error codes.
I just want to know what should be looked at and have this issue resolved.
I haven't tried using 91 or 93 octane fuel, but I had the car for 5 years and never had a problem. I've babied this car since new and it has always run smoothly and has had all scheduled maintenance. I've got original brakes with over 50% of remaining pad wear, so it hasn't been driven hard.
Anybody else had a similar problem?
Those people who feel compelled to always have their oil changed at a dealership are permanently stuck in this rut; but those who change their own oil, or who have it changed by an independent shop can specify that a non energy conserving oil be used. Energy conserving oils will be labeled as such on the bottle. In general; most so called "high mileage" oils are not energy conserving, and are commonly available in popular viscosities. 10W-40 and 20W-50 oils are also not usually energy conserving. But the best non-energy conserving oil for all around protection is the full synthetic European Formula oil. This oil is usually available in 0W-40 or 5W-40. It is produced by Mobil 1 and Amsoil; along with many other companies. I have repeatedly found that Mobil 1 in 0W-40 grade will dramatically reduce piston slap, improve power and smoothness, and reduce oil consumption.
The Camry V-6 of that era will easily run up to 250,000 or 300,000 miles if maintained well. But perhaps half of the cars on the road have not been maintained well. This is why it is essential to have ANY used car that you consider thoroughly inspected by an honest, experienced professional mechanic before putting one cent down on it. In addition; the automatic transmission is the one item which probably will not last that long. If you are one of the rare people who has a manual transmission; you will be immune to this built in limitation. Otherwise; be prepared to spend half the value of a car of this age to replace the automatic transmission when it fails.
Timing belts, along with fuel filters and spark plugs, are not intended to last the life of the car. They must be replaced at recommended intervals; in order for the car to be as reliable and to last as long as it was designed to last. The recommended replacement interval for the timing belt was originally 60,000 miles on the Camry; but was increased to 90,000 miles at some point (I don't recall whether that was before or after the model year of your car). If you buy a used car; you will need to find out when the timing belt was last replaced (if ever) and plan to replace it on schedule in the future; in order to avoid a breakdown. This can be an expensive repair on a Camry V-6. Because of the cost of the labor on this job; it is advisable to replace the water pump while the motor is apart; as there will be no additional labor charge to do so at that time.
Craig's list is not a place where I would expect to find cars which were well cared for; but there are always some exceptions. The used car market is a minefield of vehicles which were reconstructed from wrecks, bought at auctions after being stolen and abused or stripped, or have carefully concealed damage. This is one of the many reasons why you cannot buy a vehicle based on its appearance; but must have it inspected by a mechanic. This is as true for sales by dealers as it is by private parties. If a car has a cheap asking price; there usually is a good reason for it. And you may not discover what that reason is until it is too late.
If you have owned your car since it was new or young, and have cared for it well; there is a major advantage in keeping this car rather than risking buying someone else's problems. In 40 years of consulting on used cars, I have found that a really worthwhile car is only found about 10% of the time.
Thanks,
-Eric
Initially I ran some Carb/Choke Cleaner through the throttle body and a bottle of fuel inject cleaner through the gas with the next several fill-ups and that fixed the problem for several weeks, but then it started all over again.
This time things got worse a lot faster: whereas the first time went on for a week before I got a chance to work on it, the second time it all happened in a couple hours while running errands, and then it died on me (while in a sharp turn I'd quickly decelerated for) and wouldn't restart.
As far as I knew the fuel filter had never been replaced (I got the car from a little old lady who didn't need it any more 4 years ago) so I did that but it hasn't fixed the problem. I tried to start it about a dozen times but it only turn over except twice when I stuck my toe in at just the right spot: it rev-ed up to 3000rpm and then died when I tried to rev up more or back down.
I checked my spark plugs and they are a little dirty, with the soot being a little on the grayish side of things, but not bad (they're just over a year old).
I also pulled the back seat loose and checked to see that the fuel pump was running when I was turning the engine over. It seemed to be fine.
I recently had the the belts, the water pump, and all those seals replace (it had been hemorrhaging oil) by a reputable mechanic. I've not gotten the codes read as it's stuck in front of my apartment (where it was towed by AAA after it died).
Is it possible that though the fuel pump motor is running it's not actually pumping fuel? Is there some secondary filter I should check besides the main filter I already changed? Am I going to need to clean/replace my injectors? Some one at church mentioned the throttle positioning sensor does that sound right? Or does my dad's suggestion that the catalytic converter was clogged and causing back pressure make more sense?
Help please, I'm at a loss!
:confuse:
It will accelerate but sounds like the sound a motorcycle would make right before you shift gears. On the highway at about 70 it's not as loud. I get regular oil changes. Just got new tires/brakes in August. I haven't had any issues with this car! I love it, I really do take care of it. Thanks!