In a vehicle, there are some circuits which are powered from the battery all of the time, and others which are powered only when the key is in the on position.
Unfortunately, the power source for the headlight and taillight relays are powered all of the time. This is what allows the integration relay to keep your headlights on when you leave the vehicle, and then it turns them off a bit later.
So your work around, will keep those two relays continuously energized, and those down stream circuits then continuously energized .....with your headlights ON You'd have to be plugging and unplugging the wire to the headlight primary.
A non-authorized and supported modification (which is something I might consider on a 12 year old vehicle depending upon whatever the price of an integration relay..........), would be to consider to wire my own power to those circuits. Radio shack has generic 12 volt relays, with mounting sockets. You could wire up a new relay, which primary was turned ON by the key ON circuit. Then with the secondary points, use that to complete the circuit and turn on the headlight and relay primaries. Those two relays provide their normal power to their circuits. You turn the key off, your new relay turns off, drops the power to the headlight/taillight relay, and everything turns off.
Or, a manual approach would be to buy a simple generic auto switch at say Pepboys, mount it under the dash, and use that switch to manually turn on the headlight/taillight relay.
I quickly mention both of those as work arounds, but have NOT checked out all of the circuitry involved with the integration relay to worry about what else wouldn't be working correctly, nor have I thought through the ramifications of those two circuits being on all the time the engine is running, or off when you forget to turn the switch on.
I think I'd check a junk yard, to see if they have and would sell an integration relay.
Bought a 90 wagon 2.0 L and found the power outlet (cigarette lighter) does not deliver power. 15 amp fuse under driver side kick panel is intact. Is there a relay behind the unit? And how can I get to it without pulling the dash off? She's a good red wagon and deserves TLC.
Very often people will use aftermarket charging plugs, some of which are very cheaply made, and they don't fit. Thus, the user tugs on the plug-in to get it out of the socket, because it jams, and in doing so they extract the socket part way and pull off the wire behind the socket.
The 15A Cig fuse, feeds the cig lighter and is one of the power feeds to the clock. There is no relay involved. I would suggest either replacing that fuse, or getting an ohm meter to verify that the fuse really isn't blown inside. You should have zero resistance when measuring the fuse.
That cig fuse slot, gets it's power 'upstream' from one of the circuits in the key switch. The key needs to be in the on or accessory position for power to go to the lighter.
If your fuse meters okay with an ohmmeter, then switch the meter to voltage and verify that the fuse slot has 13volts on one of the pins. Measure from the fuse slot with the red+ lead, and the black- lead connected to a metal piece of the car frame.
I just bought a used 1999 camry and the door lock buttons on both driver and passenger side do not work. The window lock and window buttons work on all doors just not the door locks. I also did not get a keyless entry remote nor the manual so i'm not sure how to trouble shoot this problem. Is there a second hidden fuse box in the car somewhere that i cant find? I checked my fuses and everything looks good but i cant figure out the door lock problem. We have to lock/unlock all four door by hand and that becomes a pain when you are outside of the car and want to open the backseat doors, you have to reach all the way around and back from the front doors. Any help or advice would be great.
This could be caused by a number of different things, let's check some of the easy stuff first. There are 5 different fuses, which are involved in one way or the other with door locks. Check to see if any of these are blown:
In the Instrument Panel Junction box (inside the car), by the drivers left knee behind the ash tray area, check: - 25A Door fuse - 10 A Gauge fuse - 10 A Tail fuse - 30 A Power fuse. This 30 A fuse is a much bigger fuse, down in the lower right quadrant, like at about 5 oclock in the fuse box by looking at it.
In the engine compartment, on the left fenderwall area, check: - 7.5A Dome fuse
I recently had a similar problem on a 2001 Camry.Open your trunk and inspect the wiring near the left trunk hinge. The wiring on mine had been bending when the decklid went up and down and all six wires were frayed and bare. Hope this helps. Marty
The hazards are turning on and off, but the turn signals are not working in my 2000 Camry. I think the issue is with the Relay, but am not able to locate it. I found the Hazard flasher on the left side of the drivers foot under the hood, but cannot see any other flasher near it. Any help on how to locate and replace it (there is no noise at all from it) will be much appreciated!
Thank you for the info on the different Fuses, It was 25A Door Fuse. Switched it out and the door locks work again. Now i just have to buy a keyless remote so that I dont have to use the keys to unlock the car anymore. At least now i can use my key in the drivers door and unlock my door and the other doors.
I just bought a used Camry, bad idea, and have the same problem. Did you ever find out what the problem was? I am stumped. I took the car back and the dealer put a new battery in for free, but it started again two weeks later. Is anybody out there that can shed some light on this before I get ripped off.
If you bought this vehicle from a dealer, take it back and have them fix it under their warranty. This could be caused by a number of things: - alternator not charging up the battery - battery not holding a charge - corroded or loose main electrical connections - something defective and continually putting an electrical drain on the battery, including an aftermarket add-ons that someone might have done - a defective relay, keyswitch, or computer.
They have to eliminate the first 3 as the potential problems, before any indepth electrical sleuthing needs to occur.....almost anybody should be able to check those. The rest would need a Toyota dealership, or an independent electrical specialty garage.
Kiawah, A new problem has come up... I bought a pack of 25A fuses and the first one I put in blew the next day so I put in another one and right as I put it in I saw a spark and that one blew. What could be causing this? Is it an electrical problem?
That fuse feeds both the integration relay and the theft computer, so I would suspect one or the other is bad.
The integration relay is on the other side of the fuse block (ie. the 'front' side, towards the front of the car). The theft computer is way up under the dash, on the passenger side.
Not sure what guidance I could give you. I think if this was my vehicle, I'd verify that the door lock switches were working correctly via an ohmmeter, and also that the door lock motors worked correctly by applying voltage to them to lock and unlock.
If the fuse blows immediately, I guess one approach would be to unplug both the integration relay and the theft computer. Plug a new fuse in, and verify that the fuse doesn't blow. Turn the power off. Then plug the integration relay in, leaving the theft computer out. Put a fuse in, and verify that the fuse doesn't blow (or it does).
Assume it didn't blow. Turn the power off, take out the integration relay, and put in the theft computer. Put the fuse back in and turn the power on. If the fuse blows, you would highly suspect the theft computer is bad.
Kiwawah Late for this post but I did manage to bypass the integration relay for the head and tail lights and drove aroound a while manually turning the swithch on and off everytime.Yesterday I managed to get an integration relay and snapped it in.And everything started working just like it was.Thanks a lot for your help this site helped me a lot.According to me I saved about $600 in this exercise !!! Thanks again
As I was starting my car this morning I was adjusting my power seat at the exact same time. As I turned the key, the car "clicked" and would not start. The stereo works fine, the power door locks which worked before I turned the key no longer work. I called the dealer and they said it was probably the battery but I'm not so sure.
You have to start with suspecting the battery is bad.......
If you get it started, you can try driving it to an autoparts store and they can run a battery check on it. If that is the original battery now 5 years old, you are overdue for a battery anyhow.
I have a '96 Camry 4 dr LE Sedan. The passenger side front window stopped working one day while the window was down. I took the door panel apart to push the window up, bought a new motor and replaced it. It didn't work, so the motor wasn't the problem.
About 3 months later the driver side front window stopped working as well. About 2 months later, the drivers side master panel would no longer control the rear windows. 8 months later, the rear windows stopped working. Now, about 3 weeks after that happened, I had a mechanic take the car apart to diagnose it. He took the master panel apart from the wires to test them and they all seemed functional; however, when he plugged the wires back into the panel, nothing would work. The door locks stopped working & the rear windows do not function at all.
The mechanic suggested that I get new switches because the wires all seemed to be getting a charge. Should I also get a new relay as well? How do you know the difference between switch or relay failure? Does it seem like either of these issues is legit?
Not exactly sure what guidance to give you here, because I don't know how competent your mechanic is with electrical problems. If I was sure he knew how to diagnose the problem and test the switch, I would send you down one path. If he doesn't know what he is doing, I'd send you down a different path. Perhaps I'll lay out both paths.
IF your mechanic knows what he is doing in his prior analysis, it appears that the wiring harness would probably be some wires that are failing in the wiring harness. This would most likely be in the joint between the body and the door, the wires that flex when you open and close the door. I come to this conclusion based upon the following points that I get from your original post: - You indicated that you initially had the passenger window stop working. You didn't say that all of the windows stopped working, so I assume at that point that only that one window had stopped working. Therefore, you must have had power to the master switch. If you had power to work the other windows, then I would conclude that the power supply circuitry (couple fuses, couple relays) are probably okay. - For reference, the power is supplied to the master switch, and the master switch works the drivers window motor, as well as then connecting the other 3 switches to the remote switches (similar to a double throw switch in a house where two switches can control the same light). - The obvious thing to check, is the master switch. If the mechanic checked out all of the switches with a meter, and verified that both the master switch and the remote switches are okay, then the problem has to be either the wiring from the master switch to the other door switches, or the motors themselves. It would be highly unlikely that you would have a number of failing motors, possible, but un-probable. Therefore the problem suspect area is the wiring. I have had wires in one vehicle I used to own which was 25 years old, and over many years of flexing had started to give intermittent failures. - So IF you believe the mechanic knows how to check out the master switch and the switch is fine, THEN the next thing for him to do is to start metering out the wires in the door jamb to find the failing wires. This is a labor intensive job, requires wiggling the wires and metering to find the failing wires. Then cutting wires, installing new wires, and soldering/insulating the joints.
On the other hand, if that mechanic didn't know what he was doing, then I'd suggest finding someone to re-do that testing of the master switch, and also to verify with a voltmeter that the power supply circuitry is working as supposed to. Items to check are: - 10A Gauge Fuse (which gets its' power from the ignition switch and the 40A AM1 fuse. If the wipers have power, then the gauge fuse should have power to it's 'input' side of the gauge fuse) - 30A Power Fuse - Power Main Relay - Door Lock Control Relay
It should be noted, that the 30A power, and the power main relay, also provide power to the door lock circuitry.
I have a 96 Camry LE 4 door, power windows and door locks. Yesterday I was driving had my window down parked put the window up went into the store, came out started it up tried to put the window down, nothing... None of the windows work nor do the power locks.. I checked fuses and could not find a bad one. There are not any fuses listed power windows/locks.. Anyone have any ideas????
Like the last post it could be intermittent The easiest thing is to pull the breaker and reinstall.My window didn't work once, and after a hour it went up. Later the motor failed. I also had new passengers in the back seat and the windows were being put up and down and maybe they could have overheated the motor.
To do a quick check of the motor get a pair of small jumper wires connected to the motor wires, and then to a battery sitting on the ground at the door. I've done this with a helper, four connectors two hands, and the motor worked intermittently. The helper refused to touch the jumpers real tight to the battery, so the connection was bad. Finally, I held the wires on the battery post myself to get the motor working. People think they will get shocked touching car electric but you cant. Touch both terminals on the battery with you left and right hands .. see no shock.
Reverse wires at the battery to get the motor/ window to go in a different direction.The circuit breaker could be under the kick panel drivers side.
None of the electric Windows Work. I checked all fuses and they seem ok. I checked the lock out switch and it seems to be working. I believe it is the Power Window Relay but I cant find it. It does not appear to be at the fuse box and I checked the drivers side kick panel, its not there either.
Does anyone know where the power window relay is on a 98 Camry. Please be specific.
You have to look on the 'frontside' (front of the car) of the fusebox, by drivers left knee. On the 'backside' which you normally look at, are the fuses.
On the frontside, are some connectors and some relays. Get down on your back under the dash. The integration relay is on the bottom, and then there are three relays right above the integration relay. The power relay, is the one on the left.
Power feeds for the window control circuitry are: -25A door -10A Gauge -30A Power and the integration relay is involved, turning on the power relay, which then allows the 30A fuse to supply it's power to the door switchs.
Sorry, but a person can get shocked, not seriously, but SHOCKED just the same, using your procedure. Not by the battery voltage but by the "kick-back" from the motor inductance as/when you open the circuit.
I've arc welded wrenches by mistake, personally....I'm not grabbing any battery terminals. It may not be high voltage, but it can delivery a LOT of amps.
You are a wealth of knowledge. When you said "it's on the left", I hope you meant the passenger side. I just got it out. You really need to be a double jointed ambidextrous midget to get down there but I did get the one on the passenger side out. I hope this is it. I plan to bench test it now.
Great, you are going to test it. Let me give you the info.
The pins are arranged in a T configuration, T rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise from how it normally prints, which is how you took it out of the socket.
Pin 1 is the + of the primary coil, which turns on the relay. Pin 2 is the Grnd of the primary coil. Pin 5 and 3 are the secondary points. Pin 5 is connected to the output of the 30A fuse, and Pin 3 is connected to the window switches.
1 ## 5 ## 3 2
In case you don't know, when relay is engergized, there should be zero resistance from 5 to 3. When relay un-energized, should be infinite resistance 5 to 3.
Thanks again. The relay bench tested OK. There was zero resistance when the coil was energized. Additionally, since all 3 relays were the same, I rotated them all. Windows still don't work. As I said before the electric door locks are working, so any device that is common to both systems can be ruled out.
I measured the voltage on the connector to the Master window switch. There is no voltage on pins 10 or 11 on the connector which, from my interpretation of the electrical schematics provides power to the Master window door switch for the windows (the ignition was on). Any further help you can give me would be appreciated.
Since the Door locks are working, then the 25A Door fuse and 10A Gauge fuse are undoubtedly okay. At this point, i would suspect the integration relay is bad. But verify that your door courtesy switches (Front Left door, front right door) are working.
One more thing. Although I tested all the fuses before I went back to double checkthe three specific ones you mentioned. I clearly found 2 of them and they tested OK. The only one I am a little unsure of is the 30 A power fuse you spoke of. I only found one 30 A fuse in the whole car, in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment. It wasn't clearly labelled but it tested OK.
However, my schematic (from a chiltons manual for this car) represents this device with a unique symbol. Could this be a circuit breaker? If so where is it located? If not is the 30 A fuse you referred to in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment?
The 30A Power fuse, is on regular fuse panel by left knee.
If you look at the small fuses, the right most column has a 7.5 A Turn, a 7.5A Rad#2, and a 15A Cig small fuse. Continuing down in that same vertical column, is a 40A Defroster fuse, the 30A power fuse, and then the 40A AM1 fuse.
That was it. I feel stupid for not recognizing it as a fuse to begin with. It looked more like a small relay. It is blown.
I would be happy to send you a gift certificate for dinner somewhere. You were a great help.
More importantly I am in great need of a competent honest mechanic. You seem to be both. I see you are from raleigh and I happen to live here too. I would very much like to know where you work so I can frequent your place of business.
I am a former electricians helper, biomed tech and now a Electrical Engineer with a PE license. Although as you know, all that can't replace practical experience. If you need a reference let me know.
Hey, good to hear someone's problem was fixed. You are the man Kiawah!
I would appreciate some info on my problem if possible.
I have an '01 Camry. All power windows and door locks work fine except the driver's side window. It will go down all the way but will get die out on the way 50% of the time. It will go up half way then you have to wait 5 to 10 mins to then go up the rest. If you don't wait and keep pulling on the switch it will barely move. The problem happens more often when you use the AUTO down feature or when you are using the window switch 2 to 3 times in a row.
There are times that it will go up without a problem. What seems to work for me is that when I put the window up, I will go up 1/3 wait a min, and then 2/3 and wait a min, then all the way up.
Any direction for where to start will be greatly appreciated.
With those symptoms, you should suspect the power window regulator assembly.
But, you should also check to make sure there aren't any pieces of the window subassembly binding or loose, making it too hard for the motor to move it.
You have to take the inside of the door off to get in there.
Many newer systems have a temperature sensitive resistor in series with the window motor to protect it, the longer current flows to the motor the higher the resistance becomes.
Once the resistor "overheats" it will take awhile for it to cool down enough to have full power to the motor again. Try a silicon spray lub on the visible window guides/runners and if that doesn't help you may have to remove the door panel and lub the interior workings.
I've tried the silcone lubricant in the visible guides before and was surprised that it didn't make a difference. I'll open it up and lub the regulator, will with hi-temp grease work fine? If that does not work, should I look into replacing the regulator or something else?
I had a similar problem on my wife's 98 Camry (this was a different problem than my most recent set of posts). I replaced the regulator assembly and still had the same problem. It turned out it was the switch itself. Carbon had developed on the switch contacts so the switch did not close completely. As this problem developed overtime it first manifested itself when the motor was under its heaviest load (when the window is going up). If you take apart the drivers side switch assembly there are four individual switches that plug int the PC board. I switched the drivers switch for one in the back. Now the driver can't roll down one of the rear windows but the driver s window works fine.
My Maintenance manual has the relay mentioned on the BE-8 " Location of Switches and Relays" but there is no picture of the relay, only it's name, no arrow. It is listed in the Fuse Block #1 group in parenthesis.
I have exposed the Fuse Block under the Driver's side kick panel but cannot identify the INTEGRATION RELAY. It is not labeled on BE-11 either ("Fuse and Relay Blocks").
I need to change this relay but can't find it and don't know what it looks like. Can someone help please?
The integration relay for that year is a big square like thing right above that bolt hole, on the backside.
By the way, what was the original problem/symptoms that you were having, and how did you conclude that the integration relay was bad and needs to be replaced?
Hi, I am having a problem with fuse 22 blowing that controls guages, power windows, charging system, etc. I replaced it yesterday, and drove 8-10 miles today, then it blew again. Any clue as to where I might look first? Also will the computer show any info? Thanks.
I'll try to help you out here, but which fuse is it that is blowing. I don't know of a fuse called 'fuse 22'. What is the amperage of the fuse that is blowing, which fuse box is it located in, and what is the label next to the fuse (or alternatively, where is it located in the fuse box).
For instance, looking for something like: - it is the 30Amp AM2 fuse that is blowing, or - it is the 10Amp Gauge fuse that is blowing, or - it has a marking of 30A, and it is in the engine compartment fuse box on the left fenderwall, and in the lower right corner of that fuse box next to another fuse marked 30A RDI
Comments
Unfortunately, the power source for the headlight and taillight relays are powered all of the time. This is what allows the integration relay to keep your headlights on when you leave the vehicle, and then it turns them off a bit later.
So your work around, will keep those two relays continuously energized, and those down stream circuits then continuously energized .....with your headlights ON You'd have to be plugging and unplugging the wire to the headlight primary.
A non-authorized and supported modification (which is something I might consider on a 12 year old vehicle depending upon whatever the price of an integration relay..........), would be to consider to wire my own power to those circuits. Radio shack has generic 12 volt relays, with mounting sockets. You could wire up a new relay, which primary was turned ON by the key ON circuit. Then with the secondary points, use that to complete the circuit and turn on the headlight and relay primaries. Those two relays provide their normal power to their circuits. You turn the key off, your new relay turns off, drops the power to the headlight/taillight relay, and everything turns off.
Or, a manual approach would be to buy a simple generic auto switch at say Pepboys, mount it under the dash, and use that switch to manually turn on the headlight/taillight relay.
I quickly mention both of those as work arounds, but have NOT checked out all of the circuitry involved with the integration relay to worry about what else wouldn't be working correctly, nor have I thought through the ramifications of those two circuits being on all the time the engine is running, or off when you forget to turn the switch on.
I think I'd check a junk yard, to see if they have and would sell an integration relay.
The 15A Cig fuse, feeds the cig lighter and is one of the power feeds to the clock. There is no relay involved. I would suggest either replacing that fuse, or getting an ohm meter to verify that the fuse really isn't blown inside. You should have zero resistance when measuring the fuse.
That cig fuse slot, gets it's power 'upstream' from one of the circuits in the key switch. The key needs to be in the on or accessory position for power to go to the lighter.
If your fuse meters okay with an ohmmeter, then switch the meter to voltage and verify that the fuse slot has 13volts on one of the pins. Measure from the fuse slot with the red+ lead, and the black- lead connected to a metal piece of the car frame.
In the Instrument Panel Junction box (inside the car), by the drivers left knee behind the ash tray area, check:
- 25A Door fuse
- 10 A Gauge fuse
- 10 A Tail fuse
- 30 A Power fuse. This 30 A fuse is a much bigger fuse, down in the lower right quadrant, like at about 5 oclock in the fuse box by looking at it.
In the engine compartment, on the left fenderwall area, check:
- 7.5A Dome fuse
Thank you for the info on the different Fuses, It was 25A Door Fuse. Switched it out and the door locks work again. Now i just have to buy a keyless remote so that I dont have to use the keys to unlock the car anymore. At least now i can use my key in the drivers door and unlock my door and the other doors.
- alternator not charging up the battery
- battery not holding a charge
- corroded or loose main electrical connections
- something defective and continually putting an electrical drain on the battery, including an aftermarket add-ons that someone might have done
- a defective relay, keyswitch, or computer.
They have to eliminate the first 3 as the potential problems, before any indepth electrical sleuthing needs to occur.....almost anybody should be able to check those. The rest would need a Toyota dealership, or an independent electrical specialty garage.
That fuse feeds both the integration relay and the theft computer, so I would suspect one or the other is bad.
The integration relay is on the other side of the fuse block (ie. the 'front' side, towards the front of the car). The theft computer is way up under the dash, on the passenger side.
Not sure what guidance I could give you. I think if this was my vehicle, I'd verify that the door lock switches were working correctly via an ohmmeter, and also that the door lock motors worked correctly by applying voltage to them to lock and unlock.
If the fuse blows immediately, I guess one approach would be to unplug both the integration relay and the theft computer. Plug a new fuse in, and verify that the fuse doesn't blow. Turn the power off. Then plug the integration relay in, leaving the theft computer out. Put a fuse in, and verify that the fuse doesn't blow (or it does).
Assume it didn't blow. Turn the power off, take out the integration relay, and put in the theft computer. Put the fuse back in and turn the power on. If the fuse blows, you would highly suspect the theft computer is bad.
I am having a problem with my keyless entry and clock on my 2005 Camry.
I have changed the batteries on both keyless entry units and nothing has worked.
Everytime i turn my car on. The clock is at 1:00 and the temp. shows in Farenheit.
Any help would be great thanks
- 10A ECU-B
- 10A Gauge1
- 5 A ECU-ACC
- 7.5A Dome
- 10A Panel
- 15A Ignition
The following fuses effect the wireless door locks
- 7.5A Dome
- 25A Door1
- 10A ECU-B
See anything(s) in common, that you might want to check?
Late for this post but I did manage to bypass the integration relay for the head and tail lights and drove aroound a while manually turning the swithch on and off everytime.Yesterday I managed to get an integration relay and snapped it in.And everything started working just like it was.Thanks a lot for your help this site helped me a lot.According to me I saved about $600 in this exercise !!! Thanks again
Any thoughts?
If you get it started, you can try driving it to an autoparts store and they can run a battery check on it. If that is the original battery now 5 years old, you are overdue for a battery anyhow.
About 3 months later the driver side front window stopped working as well. About 2 months later, the drivers side master panel would no longer control the rear windows. 8 months later, the rear windows stopped working. Now, about 3 weeks after that happened, I had a mechanic take the car apart to diagnose it. He took the master panel apart from the wires to test them and they all seemed functional; however, when he plugged the wires back into the panel, nothing would work. The door locks stopped working & the rear windows do not function at all.
The mechanic suggested that I get new switches because the wires all seemed to be getting a charge. Should I also get a new relay as well? How do you know the difference between switch or relay failure? Does it seem like either of these issues is legit?
IF your mechanic knows what he is doing in his prior analysis, it appears that the wiring harness would probably be some wires that are failing in the wiring harness. This would most likely be in the joint between the body and the door, the wires that flex when you open and close the door. I come to this conclusion based upon the following points that I get from your original post:
- You indicated that you initially had the passenger window stop working. You didn't say that all of the windows stopped working, so I assume at that point that only that one window had stopped working. Therefore, you must have had power to the master switch. If you had power to work the other windows, then I would conclude that the power supply circuitry (couple fuses, couple relays) are probably okay.
- For reference, the power is supplied to the master switch, and the master switch works the drivers window motor, as well as then connecting the other 3 switches to the remote switches (similar to a double throw switch in a house where two switches can control the same light).
- The obvious thing to check, is the master switch. If the mechanic checked out all of the switches with a meter, and verified that both the master switch and the remote switches are okay, then the problem has to be either the wiring from the master switch to the other door switches, or the motors themselves. It would be highly unlikely that you would have a number of failing motors, possible, but un-probable. Therefore the problem suspect area is the wiring. I have had wires in one vehicle I used to own which was 25 years old, and over many years of flexing had started to give intermittent failures.
- So IF you believe the mechanic knows how to check out the master switch and the switch is fine, THEN the next thing for him to do is to start metering out the wires in the door jamb to find the failing wires. This is a labor intensive job, requires wiggling the wires and metering to find the failing wires. Then cutting wires, installing new wires, and soldering/insulating the joints.
On the other hand, if that mechanic didn't know what he was doing, then I'd suggest finding someone to re-do that testing of the master switch, and also to verify with a voltmeter that the power supply circuitry is working as supposed to. Items to check are:
- 10A Gauge Fuse (which gets its' power from the ignition switch and the 40A AM1 fuse. If the wipers have power, then the gauge fuse should have power to it's 'input' side of the gauge fuse)
- 30A Power Fuse
- Power Main Relay
- Door Lock Control Relay
It should be noted, that the 30A power, and the power main relay, also provide power to the door lock circuitry.
Here's what the switch wiring looks like:
Gen 3 Window Switch
HELP...
Like the last post it could be intermittent The easiest thing is to pull the breaker and reinstall.My window didn't work once, and after a hour it went up. Later the motor failed. I also had new passengers in the back seat and the windows were being put up and down and maybe they could have overheated the motor.
To do a quick check of the motor get a pair of small jumper wires connected to the motor wires, and then to a battery sitting on the ground at the door. I've done this with a helper, four connectors two hands, and the motor worked intermittently. The helper refused to touch the jumpers real tight to the battery, so the connection was bad. Finally, I held the wires on the battery post myself to get the motor working. People think they will get shocked touching car electric but you cant. Touch both terminals on the battery with you left and right hands .. see no shock.
Reverse wires at the battery to get the motor/ window to go in a different direction.The circuit breaker could be under the kick panel drivers side.
Does anyone know where the power window relay is on a 98 Camry. Please be specific.
Thanks
On the frontside, are some connectors and some relays. Get down on your back under the dash. The integration relay is on the bottom, and then there are three relays right above the integration relay. The power relay, is the one on the left.
Power feeds for the window control circuitry are:
-25A door
-10A Gauge
-30A Power
and the integration relay is involved, turning on the power relay, which then allows the 30A fuse to supply it's power to the door switchs.
- 30A Power
- 10A Gauge
Sorry, but a person can get shocked, not seriously, but SHOCKED just the same, using your procedure. Not by the battery voltage but by the "kick-back" from the motor inductance as/when you open the circuit.
By the way, the door locks are working
Great, you are going to test it. Let me give you the info.
The pins are arranged in a T configuration, T rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise from how it normally prints, which is how you took it out of the socket.
Pin 1 is the + of the primary coil, which turns on the relay.
Pin 2 is the Grnd of the primary coil.
Pin 5 and 3 are the secondary points. Pin 5 is connected to the output of the 30A fuse, and Pin 3 is connected to the window switches.
1
## 5 ## 3
2
In case you don't know, when relay is engergized, there should be zero resistance from 5 to 3. When relay un-energized, should be infinite resistance 5 to 3.
Thanks again. The relay bench tested OK. There was zero resistance when the coil was energized. Additionally, since all 3 relays were the same, I rotated them all. Windows still don't work. As I said before the electric door locks are working, so any device that is common to both systems can be ruled out.
I measured the voltage on the connector to the Master window switch. There is no voltage on pins 10 or 11 on the connector which, from my interpretation of the electrical schematics provides power to the Master window door switch for the windows (the ignition was on). Any further help you can give me would be appreciated.
Bob
Since the Door locks are working, then the 25A Door fuse and 10A Gauge fuse are undoubtedly okay. At this point, i would suspect the integration relay is bad. But verify that your door courtesy switches (Front Left door, front right door) are working.
One more thing. Although I tested all the fuses before I went back to double checkthe three specific ones you mentioned. I clearly found 2 of them and they tested OK. The only one I am a little unsure of is the 30 A power fuse you spoke of. I only found one 30 A fuse in the whole car, in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment. It wasn't clearly labelled but it tested OK.
However, my schematic (from a chiltons manual for this car) represents this device with a unique symbol. Could this be a circuit breaker? If so where is it located? If not is the 30 A fuse you referred to in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment?
Thanks again for all the free advice.
If you look at the small fuses, the right most column has a 7.5 A Turn, a 7.5A Rad#2, and a 15A Cig small fuse. Continuing down in that same vertical column, is a 40A Defroster fuse, the 30A power fuse, and then the 40A AM1 fuse.
Check that big middle 30A fuse.
I would be happy to send you a gift certificate for dinner somewhere. You were a great help.
More importantly I am in great need of a competent honest mechanic. You seem to be both. I see you are from raleigh and I happen to live here too. I would very much like to know where you work so I can frequent your place of business.
I am a former electricians helper, biomed tech and now a Electrical Engineer with a PE license. Although as you know, all that can't replace practical experience. If you need a reference let me know.
Email me at alphawolff@hotmail.com
Thanks again
Appreciate the offer for certficate, but take your better half/significant_other/kids out to dinner instead.
Glad you found it, and it worked out to be a simple fix.
I would appreciate some info on my problem if possible.
I have an '01 Camry. All power windows and door locks work fine except the driver's side window. It will go down all the way but will get die out on the way 50% of the time. It will go up half way then you have to wait 5 to 10 mins to then go up the rest. If you don't wait and keep pulling on the switch it will barely move. The problem happens more often when you use the AUTO down feature or when you are using the window switch 2 to 3 times in a row.
There are times that it will go up without a problem. What seems to work for me is that when I put the window up, I will go up 1/3 wait a min, and then 2/3 and wait a min, then all the way up.
Any direction for where to start will be greatly appreciated.
But, you should also check to make sure there aren't any pieces of the window subassembly binding or loose, making it too hard for the motor to move it.
You have to take the inside of the door off to get in there.
Once the resistor "overheats" it will take awhile for it to cool down enough to have full power to the motor again. Try a silicon spray lub on the visible window guides/runners and if that doesn't help you may have to remove the door panel and lub the interior workings.
Thanks for the advice.
Hope this helps
It is listed in the Fuse Block #1 group in parenthesis.
I have exposed the Fuse Block under the Driver's side kick panel but cannot identify the INTEGRATION RELAY. It is not labeled on BE-11 either ("Fuse and Relay Blocks").
I need to change this relay but can't find it and don't know what it looks like.
Can someone help please?
Thanks in advance-
-Dave
I noticed a largish screw or bolt head at the bottom of the fuse block. Is that the only fastener??
(I can't see the top edge of the fuse block)
Thanks again!
-Dave
The integration relay for that year is a big square like thing right above that bolt hole, on the backside.
By the way, what was the original problem/symptoms that you were having, and how did you conclude that the integration relay was bad and needs to be replaced?
John
For instance, looking for something like:
- it is the 30Amp AM2 fuse that is blowing, or
- it is the 10Amp Gauge fuse that is blowing, or
- it has a marking of 30A, and it is in the engine compartment fuse box on the left fenderwall, and in the lower right corner of that fuse box next to another fuse marked 30A RDI