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MINI Cooper: Problems & Solutions
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I don't know where the Mini's A/C evaporator is, but the most common location is on the passenger side behind the glove box. Thus, a problem will often result in a wet floor on the the passenger side.
But if you're getting water in the car after a wash, you have your smoking gun - you have a leak from the outside. Leaks are seldom visually discernable. If you carefully direct a hose to various areas of the car and see which causes new water to appear, you should be able to isolate the area where the leak is.
My guess is that you've got a windshield seal problem on the right side. If not this, then probably a door seal issue, although water at the hood release water sounds more like a windshield. If the shield has ever been replaced, I'd virtually guarantee this is the problem.
If the car is under warranty it should be covered for something like this, both for diagnosis and repair. The Mini has a somewhat checkered history of windshield problems, especially the early ones.
If not under warranty, yes, the dealer is going to have to look at the car to diagnosis the problem and this will cost you. But if they're competent, it is probably money well spent.
Good luck,
- Mark
This design I'm sure is very good in climates where the temperatures do not drop to minus 40(same in both fahrenheit and celsius) and freeze any water (droplets) to where they build up and break the pipe. Consequently silicone has come to the rescue again. Therefore the only way to fgix the problem in winter is to plug the holes. (There is a rear drain that has not yet plugged so this solution is only a one time deal. When this drain is plugged then disasembly of the moldings is necesary).
I now have dry feet!!!
Cheers
- Mark
Statistically speaking, this incident doesn't make your car any more or less likely to have a problem. So it shouldn't influence the decision about the warranty which is basically an insurance policy, but after an incident like this, it might help you sleep better at night.
- Mark
Thanks, Micki
Trying several different keys is a good thing too. Each commmunicates with the car's computer and there have been glitches in the sensors that pick up the key codes.
Don't know about your other problems. If the dealer has been monkeying around with the shifter, yes, I'd suspect that as a cause for the backup light problem.
- Mark
Appreciate anyones advice.
-Atticus
The Mini is about like any other small FWD car in the snow - Okay with the right tires, but not up to 4WD SUV standards by any stretch. It's a bit low-slung and there have been sporadic reports of door lock and shifter freezing up issues. The weird BMW feature that cracks the windows when you open a car door has been problematic in cold weather too.
If you can't stay home on a snowy day, you definitely will want dedicated snow tires, probably on extra rims for easy seasonal changeover. The MCS on 17" low-profile, run-flat summer tires is a hockey puck.
If by "NY" you mean NYC, I'd consider another problem - potholes and exceptionally rough roads. A Mini, especially with low-profile tires, will really pound over broken pavement. It punctures tires, breaks wells, and eventually takes its toll on the suspension and structure.
Honestly, for four-season NYC car, I'd recommend something else, either a beater, small ute, or if you don't mind beating up a nice car, an AWD A3. NYC is a tough place for cars.
- Mark
Do you know how to get to the backup light switch?
The window going down when you open it is actually a useful feature--since the windows are frameless, it reduces the risk of you breaking the window when you shut the door.
So far though:
the notorious cracked windshield after a rock chip. will be replaced by PPG glass soon.
driver's seat edges began unstitching. covered by warr.
slight rust/corrosion on door hinges. replaced by warr.
Today it snowed a bit in Denver and I drove my 03 Mini S to work. I left the ASL on and it would engage all the time and really take power away from the wheels. In the manual it says if your stuck in the snow to turn off the ASL, but what about driving around in slippery conditions?
I'm really tempeted to turn it off, because then the car would handle more like I expect it too. Or is this a bad idea. I seems safer with the ASL on. Any thoughts are appreciated.
The "stuck in snow" turn off recommendation is to allow lots of wheelspin to churn you way out, which works sometimes. It gives you another option if you're stuck. But it has nothing to do with normal driving.
- Mark
It's a minor lurch on mine - if it really is bucking, then perhaps something is wrong with yours. But it is something that has been talked about on this and other forums for years.
- Mark
My problems to date: (1) problem early on with programming. Occured in all the MCS autos...quickly corrected; (2) kept getting the tire flat warning (yellow light which looks like somebody's butt...) Dealer and Discount Tire argued over bad indicator or flat in the making. After several months of going round and round, turns out it was a flat in the making. It was patched, works fine now. NOTE: Mini dealer will tell you run flats cannot be patched. They can...
I recommend MC to everyone who asks about it. The question I always get is "how can a big guy like you fit in this little car?"..I have to tell them how it is the MOST comfortable of any car I have owned. Including those 2x the size.
I see a hot car at the car show and get all excited, then drive bigger cars (like wife's Lexus ES300..) and can't wait to get back to MCS..
GO FOR IT!!
I think the fact that PDC is standard on the convertibles is a tip-off.. the rear visibility really isn't very good..
Top up isn't the problem, I don't think.. When you are on the move, you can adjust for your blind spots.. But, when the top is down, you really have a big blind spot over the whole rear of the car... Reminds me of the Beetle convertible in that respect..
All that said... I'm sure you can adjust to it.. and you will get used to it... But, I don't think you'll feel as carefree driving it as in your current ride..
Just my $0.02,
kyfdx
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kyfdx hits it on the head: Yes, it is a problem. But most folks can work around it with extra vigilence and careful adjustment of the mirros. I'd make it a strike against the car but I wouldn't disqualify the car if it is otherwise what you want.
- Mark
but now we have a really strange soud when we rev it its i high pitch noise only when you rev it took it to a garage and they told us its a clutch bearing which will cost £1500 but the clutch seems fine it sounds like a turbo noise its just when you rev it very strange sound anyone have any ideas thanks in advance
Richard
We are schedule to take the car in for a look, but never had problems before specially lubricating a engine....ill keepposted
- Mark
Thx good luck
- Mark
Thx
No engine needs to be externally lubricated by spraying it down with WD40. It does no engine any good. You might use it to free up a throttle linkage or other localized use, but I'd strongly urge you to not do this anymore on any vehicle, especially modern cars with their relatively fragile underhood electronics, sensors, vacuum hoses, etc.
Good luck,
- Mark
I guess markJ was right about the mis usage of wd40 i will be watching my CVT so see if any thing comes up.! thx
Guillermo
On cold starts, my engine always dies on the first try, then it manages to start up on the second try. It happens every morning when I leave for work and every evening when I leave for home. This started about a week ago. Yes, I do turn the key to the on position and wait for the fuel pressure to build up before engaging the ignition.
Has anyone had this issue? What was the solution to fixing it? I have an '05 MCS manual trans.
Thanks!
I have a 2002 MC and it has the temperature indicator on the RPM cluster. About three weeks ago, it was raining and I was fiddling with the AC to get the windows back to where I could see outside. I must have done some sort of combo of keys, because I looked down and the temperature indicator had changed to Celsius.
It has been an education translating Celsius back to Fahrenheit, but I do want to change it back. And I would love to know how to do it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
- Mark
Check it out, I thought that something this simple would be easy to to. Maybe they don't want my kids to find out and change everything :-)
But that seems so counter to what actually happened. I mean it happened, and now I want to change it back. I believe it's a number of 'keystrokes' or such.
The cooling fan keeps running after turning off the ignition and completelly depleting the battery i had happened in 3 ocations and I know of 3other coopers with same problem has anyone had something similar or heard of it before? any rercals?
I will soon be the proud owner of a MCC - am in the process of specing mine out for order. I am somewhat torn on purchasing the cockpit chrono pack - I know it's only $300 - but I am trying to save money wherever possible. Does anyone have it and love it or hate it? And does anyone not have it and wish they had gotten it?
Thanks for your help - can't wait to join the crew of owners!!! :shades:
you can always purchase the chrome parts on websites or even ebay but for 300 dollars its worth it thats les that 20$ a month if you got to have it!!! do it....
my advice save the $300, and this from a guy who originally wanted it, but if your still not sure, drive one with the chrono and one without