We own a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan and the kids love to recline the middle and rear seats when they are tired. Does the middle bench seat recline or do the captains' chairs recline in a Suburban or Yukon XL? Also, does the third seat recline? May help us make our decision on what vehicle to purchase. Thanks for your help.
Just got through test driving a brand new 2002 Yukon and experienced the same problem. The head mechanic at the dealership drove it with me & experienced the same thing, but he didn't have any answers either. Hope you can figure out the problem!
I have a Yukon XL with a second row bench. The second and third row benches do not recline . This is something I wish GM would think about before building "all new" vehicles with old technology.
I am not sure about the second row buckets, hope they didn't make he same mistake twice.
Been trying to find a rear deflector for my 01 YXL with hatch type door. I have seen some in mags but when I call they tell me not available for new model with hatch. Anybody have one yet?
Also, been thinking about replacing my air filter with drop in K/N. Was hoping for better fuel economy but privious experience with F-150 proved to be no help with this product. Any feedback would be appreciated.
I posed this problem on tahoe/yukon chat,but have not gotten a response. Notice several posts here about autoride, so will give it a try here.
I have a 2002 Tahoe 4wd with autoride. It delivered with the autoride advisory light on. Dealer installed a new module, the light stayed on, then went out on its own after a couple of days. The ride however was extremely stiff and uncomfortable with hard impacts and wallowing motion on uneven roads. The shocks seem to be in the"firm" mode all the time. However it seemed the system worked for a couple of short durations with noticeable ride improvement but it did not last. The dealer says there are no diagnostic indications and did not known what to do next. This is the only autoride system he has experienced.
If any one can offer help with the autoride problem please do so. I believe autoride will be worth while when it works.
I am installing an Alpine navigation system in my '000 Yukon XL .Does anyone know what color the speed sensor wire in the engine compartment, and the reverse light wires ( under the dash)are? Thanks
I have 2 suggestios: 1. Check the tire pressure. 2. Compare it to another vehicle with autoride on the same roads. Make sure you check the tire pressure in the other vehicle before the test drive. If you have trouble finding another vehicle with autoride, go to a GMC dealer and look at a Denali. They all have autoride.
OK folks, what's up with using tire chains? We Californios don't use studded tires or snow tires for our runs up to the Sierras. Depending on the area, 4wd vehicles are now required to use chains. I have a Yukon XL with autoride and there is minimal clearance between the rear sidewalls and the shocks. In the owner's manual, GM says no chains. How are people solving this problem?
I have a '00 2500 Suburban with a power door lock problem. It has only happened 4 or 5 times in the last 6 months. When I pull the key from switch the doors will not unlock and if I press the switch on arm rest they will not unlock. The only way to get the doors to unlock is to manualy unlock each door. The keyless remote will not unlock nor relock after manualy unlocking doors. Another thing that happens at this time is the power seats will not work. If I press the lock on key fob twice the horn toots but doors will not lock. I can go back twenty to thirty min. later and every things works fine. The service dept.worked on it 2 days checking wiring and thought they had it fixed but the next day it did it again. They are stumped so far. If anyone out there in Suburban land has had this trouble please post what the fix was. Thanks
This is Irv. Don`s brother. If no one comes up with a answer before Friday, I`ll find Don`s 2000 Suburban Manual and try to trace out the circuit. He always told me it`s fun to look into these crazy electrical problems. Quick guess would be a bad electrical connection or fuse. The additional failure of the power seats seems to confirm that thought train. Both circuits will probably trace back to the same fuse or connector. Willing to give it a try. Irv.
My brother-in-law (and his brother) have a set of "Spike Spiders" that actually attach over the hubs of their wheels. My brother-in-law uses them on a Dodge Caravan AWD. He's got the worst driveway I've ever seen in terms of slope and length. He can actually go up the driveway backwards with snow and ice on it when my Explorer won't get up at all (haven't tried the Yukon in winter conditions yet).
His brother uses them on a Ford Excursion. Lives in Calif. and runs to the Sierras frequently. He uses them to meet the requirements you're talking about.
They're easy to put on and take off and can run on the open road. Have a look at this website:
Irv: Stand-in for recovering Don. As part of Don`s mental recovery process I use this forum to try to bring his brain out of the stroke darkness. Even though there is little response I show him the diagrams and talk through the trouble analysis. I have no computer of my own but after feeding him, and exercising his left arm and leg, I try to reach his latent interest in these boards. If this violates the way the board is to be used advise me and I`ll cease using Don`s computer. His wife and doctor thinks that this may help him. Having said the above, I did get time to look at the Lock circuits. Page 1142 of the 2000 volume 4 Service Manual advises that the Technician should use a fused jumper lead to supply power at the Door Lock Relay. This test does not cover your basic problem since you also have lost power to your Power Seats. Page 8-408 is a wiring diagram for Power distribution to the Power Door Lock, BCM, and AIR Pump Relay. In the Engine Wiring Harness Junction Block there is a B+ Bus which is hot at all times. The 50 Amp RAP Fuse - Ckt 542 - is fed from this bus. This circuit exits the Engine Wiring Harness junction Block on a large - 5mm - RED Lead on contact A-C6.The lead goes through the fire wall grommet P-100 and terminates on the interior fuse block at connector point A6-C1. Inside the fuse block this becomes a power bus which feeds the 20 Amp DOOR LOCK fuse, the 25 Amp SEATS circuit breaker, the 3 Amp MIR/LOCK fuse, and the RAP relay. Since you have lost at least 2 of the above items I suspect that the Large RED Lead is swinging open at A-C6 or A6-C1 as stated above. Another trouble site could be at the circuit pack Ground Point. More Later Don needs me. Irv.
Technicians have a hard time fixing your type of trouble since it is not there all the time. The $2,000 scan test set will frequently show all tests o.k. In addition to the trouble suggested above you could have two separate troubles. One that affects the locks and a second trouble which affects the seat. There are connectors in the wiring harness which sometimes are not mated correctly at time of installation. One such connector is under the seat. I simply looked for one point which would produce both failures. Irv. Don`s stand-in.
I have been thru 2 sets of wheels, and 2 sets of tires. I still get a nagging front end vibration. Has anyone else had this problem, and solved it, (or not solved it!). It is a 2 wheel drive half ton with stock everything, except the wheels, American Racing 15 x 8 chrome with 255/75 LT truck tires from Dunlop.
Thanks Irv, I just got off the phone with service department and I take it back the 12th to be checked. Got a call from my wife this morning she got to work and could not get out,nothing would work. Finally got manual lock to work,she was a little upset. She said when she turned switch but did not remove key the radio,windows,seats and locks would not operate. Man at service dept. said they were going to look at ignition switch. I hope they find it soon, I will give them a copy of your findings. When they get it fixed I will post in case someone else has the same trouble.
I thought about the switch briefly BUT the wiring schematic clearly shows that the RED wire I talked about is HOT AT ALL TIMES. IF the schematic is correct then the feed to the door locks and the seat does not go thru the ignition switch. They just have to start at one end and follow thru until they find a intermit. contact or loss of voltage. I`m afraid that there is little training on trouble analysis through the use of wiring diagrams. Most training regards only the use of a scan tool. This works for maybe 90% of troubles but not all. Again - it`s hard to find a trouble when it refuses to show up. These troubles separate the boy techs from the men. Good luck and smile it will be found - sooner or later. :c)
Just wondering if anyone has bought a Chevy in the Vegas area recently. Would like to know if they are straight-shooters or not.
Did anyone vacillate between the Tahoe and the 'Burb? Right now, I have a family of four (2 boys, 3 and 7) with plans to add another one to the fold next year, God willing. I don't tow anything (tent-trailer in the near future) nor do I go off-road. I guess the question come down to this: is the size worth the trade-off in gas mileage and maneuverability?
Also, what would be a reasonable offer on a 2001 Suburban 4x2 1500 LT? I'm thinking $200-$500 over invoice minus the $2000 cash that they're offering on the 2001 holdovers...what do you guys think???
Hi tarman. Can't answer about dealers in Vegas...but as far as the size...
I have 3 boys, (8,6 & 1). I'd go for the 'burb. We have a 2wd '01 'burb and we have often used all the room. (especially on trips) I dove an Oddessey before we bought this and I was worried about having trouble maneuvering it. Not a problem. I don't even realize I'm driving a bus until I see it parked next to a Tahoe!
Hi tarman, invoice is a good place to start. Right now car sales are on there way down & the dealers know it, it's all over the news. I live in NY & called four dealers in CT who said they wouldn't sell the car for invoice. I called NJ & the 1st dealer I called said OK. Try to find a dealer who does large volume. They are more likely to do this because they have sales goals they have to meet. December is a good time to buy because sales are slow & they are more willing to bargain for the sale. GM dealers get 3% of the sticker price in hold back fees from the manufacture. So they will still get around $1000 profit on the car.
I have been having enormous problems with my transmission locking up in my '02 Yukon Denali. Has anyone else had this happen? My Denali will be working fine when all of a sudden it will hesitate, lock up, and then finally go. It locks up so quick that I accidentially rev the engine, and then chirp the tires when the transmission finally kicks in. The dealership mechanics are dumbfounded.
I have a 1995 Yukon which Lost "Cruise Control" 5.7L 75Kmi. The Cruise Quit just after the warranty period! (Thanks GMC/GM !, But does anyone have any simple diagnostics, a TSB, or a previous post on the subject? I've been puting off to go to the Dealer$ as $ and the use of Cruise is limited. I admit I would like to use it a few times a month. Someone told me it could be the wiring, as the constsnt use of Tilt steering puts a strain on the electronics on the column. Any Ideas? I did post ? on other sites,Thanks, D~
sgj55 mentioned that GM dealers get 3% holdback on sticker price of vehicles. Is this actually on the sticker price or on the selling price of the car? So if you offer invoice, they still get 3% profit? Not bad for them which makes an offer at invoice not unreasonable. Is anyone getting 2002 Yukons at invoice?
Another question: My husband and I have a Toyota lease which will be up in April 2002 (Last payment due in March 2002). We also have a Jeep GC which we are planning to drive until it dies (70,000 miles currently.) Would you purchase a new car in Dec. to take advantage of the slow selling month and have three cars sitting in the driveway (for only 2 drivers) or would it be better to wait and see what incentives the manufacturers may offer in the first quarter of '02?
The 3% holdback is on the MSRP of the car (sticker price) but there is a catch for the dealer. This is a pro-rated rebate of sorts. If you go in and order a car, the dealer gets the whole 3%. The longer a car sits on his lot from the delivery date, the less he gets. Check out this page for an explanation of how it works:
It's hard to say what is best to do, buy now or wait. The incentives now are not so hot. They offer 0% financing for 3yrs. Who can afford to pay off one of these things in three years.
You also have to weigh the cost of keeping both vehicles on the road, insurance,tags,maintenance against how much you'll save by buying now. All the analyst are saying that sales are going to drop off in 2002 because of the falling economy and the incentives offered thus far have pulled buyers ahead from the spring. Price wise I don't think you can get hurt either way. Someone is always in need of a sale and willing to sell a car cheap just to meet his quota- or get fired! I bought a few cars from salesmen in that predicament. Anything that will keep people from going to the show room will loosen up the sales- people, like snow storms. A very good time to buy.
Tarman -- Gas mileage is a wash; Sub goes for about $2K more, but that's with a useable 3rd seat included; you lose about 4 feet on the turning circle, which makes it about equal to the pre-2000 Tahoes; the bigger gas tank is nice; with a family your size the choice is obvious. -- Don
Thanks for the advice everyone. I decided that I would eventually crave the space that a Suburban affords a growing family (plus my wife has claustrophobia, so bigger is always better). So, I went down and bought a 2001 Suburban 1500 LT 4x2 in charcoal gray that I had my eye on and test drove a while back--one of only 4 2001's left on the lot. Got a great deal...$35,515 out the door (MSRP was 40,063--paid invoice + ad fee of about $390 + destination charge + tax of $2600 + doc fees of $435 - $2000 rebate). The only option I didn't get, but wanted, was the autoride.
Overall, my sales experience was pretty good--no gimmicks or heavy-handed tactics--I came in, gave my offer and that was it. The sales manager showed me his invoice as well, which matched the numbers from Edmunds exactly. The dealer made about $500 on the deal because of an additional incentive on 2001 'Burbs for local dealers--which I think is fair profit on a leftover. My only complaint with the sales process was how long it took to close the deal with the finance department (I don't know if they were short-handed or what, but I had to sit and wait for a long time--from the time I stepped into the sales booth to the time that I left the lot, I was there for nearly 6 hours). Next time, I'll line up the financing before hand, like I did with my previous purchase.
My second complaint? Dead battery when I went to take my new 'Burb home. Since the truck only had 40 miles on it (not many long test drives), the alternator didn't have enough time to charge the battery up from frequent starts, testing of the interior gadgets, etc. You would think that they would charge the battery up when they detail the car. Then, once we jumped the battery, the engine went into "recovery mode" with reduced power...almost thought that I would have to leave the dang thing there. But, I cranked it up again and got it to start up normally (albeit, with the check engine light on). The next morning, everything seemed normal...started up fine, no check engine light, etc. I think that the dying battery jolted the computer a little bit. Anyway, GM didn't inspire a ton of confidence as I left (can anyone say, "extended warranty"?) After owning a flawless Isuzu Trooper for the last 2 years, I may be in for quite a shock. Who knows??? In order to make me happy, they threw in a free fill-up and oil change when I come in for the first service, without any asking on my part. Good service, I think.
In any event, I'm very happy with the purchase...just in time for a long trip through California to visit both sets of grandparents for Christmas. Being a 4-time Suburban owner, my father-in-law will be excited to see a new 'Burb pull up his driveway.
Now, a quick question: did everyone really baby the truck through the break-in period? After 500 miles, did you drive it normally? Anything else a new owner needs to know? Early oil-change?
Again, thanks for the advice. And if anyone wants to know more about my experience with the Chevy dealer in Las Vegas in more detail, then don't hesitate to e-mail me.
I just drove mine 2000 Tahoe & 2001 Silverado as I would drive at anyother time. I changed oil at 500 miles,1500 miles,and at 3000 miles. That means 500,1000,1500 miles between the changes and then every 3000 forever. Built many old 350 motors & never had any trouble, Fist couple changes get all the shavings out.
In the process of deciding on a '02 "Burb" 5.3L or 6.0L vs. an '02 Yukon XL ..same engine options. Other than more $$'s and a few additional options on the Yukon XL, is there any reason for the Yukon XL other than badge engineering? Will be towing total of 5000 lbs. (track car and trailer). Will the 5.3L be enough to get it out of its' own way while on the highway at speed? Thanks in advance for any input.
I have an '01 Yukon XL with the 5.3 and 3.73 rear end and tow a 6500 plus boat and trailer with no problems. I used to have a '95 Burb, and trust me, the new ones tow a lot better. The boat seems to have more drag than a car on trailer. I used to have a 944t that I towed with my 95 to D.E. and club races. I figure that rig weighed about 5500 lbs and it towed great. Even up to Watkins Glen I could go 70mph with no problems.
I am also towing a 944t to DE and other events. Have never done Watkins Glen...yet. Looks like the the 5.3 will do. Did you get Autoride suspension for load leveling? Again, thanks for the feedback.
1) Yeah, it's mostly just badge engineering, but GMC offers automatic climate control and autoride without having to buy the leather seats. 2) If you're towing a race car, you're undoubtedly a 'shoe, and would really prefer the 6.0L with the 4:10 rear end. 3) Actually, what you really want is the 8.1. -- Don
Hey sb55, when you tow your boat or race car are you able to tow in fourth gear? Or are you towing mostly in third?
Tarman sounds like you did OK! I didn't think there were to many '01 subs out there. That rebate was a nice chunk of change. I hope they do something like that on the 2002's.
The trans on our 2000 'burb popped friday with 20k on it. Got a call from the dealer last night - new trans on the way. I'll post more details when I get them, but it was a major failure.
Initial symptoms where higher rpm's at a given speed, followed very quickly by lurching acceleration. Then a loud bang, and a complete lockup, even in neutral. Luckily, the complete failure didn't occur until we were in the driveway. The towing company could hardly get the 'burb on the flatbed because everything was locked up so bad.
I'm looking for a reasonable dealer in Central Ohio to purchase a Yukon from. I would like to use the GM Buy Power site and would like to at least get the vehicle for True Market Value or lower. Anyone have a dealer in Central OH that they would like to recommend? Thanks.
I dont have autoride. When I had the '95 I had to tow in 3rd. With the '01 I use the tow/haul except an occasional downshift on a steep hill. I will even shift in the mountains when I am not towing. I tow my boat from NYC metro area to Lake Champlain in the most Northern part of VT. The hills in the center of rte. 89 will slow me down to 55 or so, but it is certainly manageable.
Newbie here...just bought an '02 4WD LT 1500. (This is my second one- had a 99 that was involved in a head on collison that me and my kids walked away from-thanks GM, but was never quite right after they put it back together) so I have a new one. I have a quick question about breaking in the engine...I saw that someone said to change the oil every 500 for the first 1500 miles...is this a good plan? If so, why? Thanks!! PS anyone in the Boston area read the article on the OP Ed page about how SUV owners had the most flags on their trucks after 9/11?
The logic in changing every 500 miles for the first 1500 miles is that since the engine is new, as the parts start to mate to each other, there are metal shavings, chemicals, etc. that are produced. I don't know if you have to do it every 500 miles but I'd do one at 1000-1500 miles and then again around 2500-3000 miles.
I changed mine at 3400 the first time and had the oil analysed and there was quite a bit of metal and higher than normal levels of chemicals in the sample. I just changed it again at 9200 and the analysis showed that most of the metals were back to normal levels and some chemicals where a little elevated. If I were to do it over again, I'd change at 1500, 3000, and probably 5000 and then stay with around 5000-6000 miles after that.
sb55 I live on Long Island and travel up north also. I elected to buy a 3/4 ton YokonXL because almost all the people on this site said that the half ton was a little under powered for a load like that. I didn't want to be in 3rd gear most of the time. But you seem to have a different experience.
I have a 1/2 ton 01 YXL 4wd 5.3L w/ 3.73 rear end and tow a 31 ft travel trailer weighing about 7,000 lb when loaded. The trailer has the aero-dynamics of a shoebox & I tow it every summer from upstate NY to the Adirondeck Mtns, about 250 miles each way. I have no trouble towing it in the tow/haul mode in 3rd. I never have tried towing it in OD, as I am sure it would put more stress on the drive line, & lug along at lower RPM's, but probably w/ more throttle angle. I have no trouble towing on the interstate @ 70-80 MPH. & can pass w/ ease. Two lane mountain roads slow me down a bit, but still not a problem. I never have to floor it to keep up w/ traffic, & am not backing up traffic behind me. Gas mileage towing is about 10-10.5 MPG which is much better than my 93 2wd 5.7L w/ 3.73 gears, that would average 8-8.5 MPG when towing the same trailer, on the same roads. The OD gearing in the 01 is much taller than it was in 93, so I don't believe I would save anything by towing in OD. If I were towing this trailer frequently, I might consider the 6.0L or 8.1L, but for my use I am pleased w/ the 5.3L & enjoy better fuel economy both towing & running solo. Solo mileage is 14-19 MPG (worse city & best country) that I achieved w/ my truck.
the 3/4 ton is it has a higher 1st gear and weighs more; all of which seems to pretty much off set the power/torque gain over the the 5.3L 1500. Far less strain and worth it, of course, for heavy towing. 'Course if you get it with the 8.1L, that's a whole 'nother story. -- Don
My 2001 Suburban's tires are feathering. I thought this was just Goodyear, but I have been "feeling up" other Suburbans in parking lots wherever I go... and I have found that ALL have feathering: regardless of tire brand, type, size, or rim.
I think there is a flaw in the new Suburban design & want to know how many other people have this problem. Please e-mail me at tm@spot4vision.com.
I have been noticing on all later Tahoes and Suburbans the extreme amount of space between the top of the tires and the fender lip? It looks ridiculous.
i was behind a new Suburban at a stoplight and there was a late '70's model next to it. I swear, the new one was a foot taller!!
GM needs to quit with that, and get the vehicle down over the tires
Comments
I am not sure about the second row buckets, hope they didn't make he same mistake twice.
Also, been thinking about replacing my air filter with drop in K/N. Was hoping for better fuel economy but privious experience with F-150 proved to be no help with this product. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Larry
I have a 2002 Tahoe 4wd with autoride. It delivered with the autoride advisory light on. Dealer installed a new module, the light stayed on, then went out on its own after a couple of days. The ride however was extremely stiff and uncomfortable with hard impacts and wallowing motion on uneven roads. The shocks seem to be in the"firm" mode all the time. However it seemed the system worked for a couple of short durations with noticeable ride improvement but it did not last. The dealer says there are no diagnostic indications and did not known what to do next. This is the only autoride system he has experienced.
If any one can offer help with the autoride problem please do so. I believe autoride will be worth while when it works.
Thanks
1. Check the tire pressure.
2. Compare it to another vehicle with autoride on the same roads. Make sure you check the tire pressure in the other vehicle before the test drive. If you have trouble finding another vehicle with autoride, go to a GMC dealer and look at a Denali. They all have autoride.
In the owner's manual, GM says no chains. How are people solving this problem?
-Dan
Another thing that happens at this time is the power seats will not work. If I press the lock on key fob twice the horn toots but doors will not lock.
I can go back twenty to thirty min. later and every things works fine.
The service dept.worked on it 2 days checking wiring and thought they had it fixed but the next day it did it again. They are stumped so far.
If anyone out there in Suburban land has had this trouble please post what the fix was. Thanks
If no one comes up with a answer before Friday, I`ll find Don`s 2000 Suburban Manual and try to trace out the circuit. He always told me it`s fun to look into these crazy electrical problems.
Quick guess would be a bad electrical connection or fuse. The additional failure of the power seats seems to confirm that thought train. Both circuits will probably trace back to the same fuse or connector. Willing to give it a try.
Irv.
tidester
Host
SUVs
His brother uses them on a Ford Excursion. Lives in Calif. and runs to the Sierras frequently. He uses them to meet the requirements you're talking about.
They're easy to put on and take off and can run on the open road. Have a look at this website:
http://www.spikes-spider.com/
I haven't ever dealt with this company, but they appear to be the US distributor for this product which is made in Sweden. They're pricy, but work.
As part of Don`s mental recovery process I use this forum to try to bring his brain out of the stroke darkness. Even though there is little response I show him the diagrams and talk through the trouble analysis. I have no computer of my own but after feeding him, and exercising his left arm and leg, I try to reach his latent interest in these boards. If this violates the way the board is to be used advise me and I`ll cease using Don`s computer. His wife and doctor thinks that this may help him.
Having said the above, I did get time to look at the Lock circuits.
Page 1142 of the 2000 volume 4 Service Manual advises that the Technician should use a fused jumper lead to supply power at the Door Lock Relay. This test does not cover your basic problem since you also have lost power to your Power Seats.
Page 8-408 is a wiring diagram for Power distribution to the Power Door Lock, BCM, and AIR Pump Relay.
In the Engine Wiring Harness Junction Block there is a B+ Bus which is hot at all times. The 50 Amp RAP Fuse - Ckt 542 - is fed from this bus. This circuit exits the Engine Wiring Harness junction Block on a large - 5mm - RED Lead on contact A-C6.The lead goes through the fire wall grommet
P-100 and terminates on the interior fuse block at connector point A6-C1.
Inside the fuse block this becomes a power bus which feeds the 20 Amp DOOR LOCK fuse, the 25 Amp SEATS circuit breaker, the 3 Amp MIR/LOCK fuse, and the RAP relay.
Since you have lost at least 2 of the above items I suspect that the Large RED Lead is swinging open at A-C6 or A6-C1 as stated above.
Another trouble site could be at the circuit pack
Ground Point. More Later Don needs me.
Irv.
In addition to the trouble suggested above you could have two separate troubles. One that affects the locks and a second trouble which affects the seat. There are connectors in the wiring harness which sometimes are not mated correctly at time of installation. One such connector is under the seat.
I simply looked for one point which would produce both failures.
Irv. Don`s stand-in.
tidester
Host
SUVs
Thanks,
George
I hope they find it soon, I will give them a copy of your findings.
When they get it fixed I will post in case someone else has the same trouble.
These troubles separate the boy techs from the men.
Good luck and smile it will be found - sooner or later. :c)
Irv. - Don`s stand-in.
-- Don
Just wondering if anyone has bought a Chevy in the Vegas area recently. Would like to know if they are straight-shooters or not.
Did anyone vacillate between the Tahoe and the 'Burb? Right now, I have a family of four (2 boys, 3 and 7) with plans to add another one to the fold next year, God willing. I don't tow anything (tent-trailer in the near future) nor do I go off-road. I guess the question come down to this: is the size worth the trade-off in gas mileage and maneuverability?
Also, what would be a reasonable offer on a 2001 Suburban 4x2 1500 LT? I'm thinking $200-$500 over invoice minus the $2000 cash that they're offering on the 2001 holdovers...what do you guys think???
Thanks in advance for your help!
I have 3 boys, (8,6 & 1). I'd go for the 'burb. We have a 2wd '01 'burb and we have often used all the room. (especially on trips) I dove an Oddessey before we bought this and I was worried about having trouble maneuvering it. Not a problem. I don't even realize I'm driving a bus until I see it parked next to a Tahoe!
my 2 cents - julie
dealers know it, it's all over the news. I live
in NY & called four dealers in CT who said they
wouldn't sell the car for invoice. I called NJ
& the 1st dealer I called said OK. Try to find a
dealer who does large volume. They are more
likely to do this because they have sales goals
they have to meet. December is a good time to buy
because sales are slow & they are more willing to
bargain for the sale. GM dealers get 3% of the
sticker price in hold back fees from the
manufacture. So they will still get around $1000
profit on the car.
Another question: My husband and I have a Toyota lease which will be up in April 2002 (Last payment due in March 2002). We also have a Jeep GC which we are planning to drive until it dies (70,000 miles currently.) Would you purchase a new car in Dec. to take advantage of the slow selling month and have three cars sitting in the driveway (for only 2 drivers) or would it be better to wait and see what incentives the manufacturers may offer in the first quarter of '02?
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/index.html
Campo57
offer 0% financing for 3yrs. Who can afford to
pay off one of these things in three years.
You also have to weigh the cost of keeping both
vehicles on the road, insurance,tags,maintenance
against how much you'll save by buying now. All
the analyst are saying that sales are going to
drop off in 2002 because of the falling economy
and the incentives offered thus far have pulled
buyers ahead from the spring. Price wise I don't
think you can get hurt either way. Someone is
always in need of a sale and willing to sell a
car cheap just to meet his quota- or get fired!
I bought a few cars from salesmen in that
predicament. Anything that will keep people from
going to the show room will loosen up the sales-
people, like snow storms. A very good time to buy.
-- Don
Overall, my sales experience was pretty good--no gimmicks or heavy-handed tactics--I came in, gave my offer and that was it. The sales manager showed me his invoice as well, which matched the numbers from Edmunds exactly. The dealer made about $500 on the deal because of an additional incentive on 2001 'Burbs for local dealers--which I think is fair profit on a leftover. My only complaint with the sales process was how long it took to close the deal with the finance department (I don't know if they were short-handed or what, but I had to sit and wait for a long time--from the time I stepped into the sales booth to the time that I left the lot, I was there for nearly 6 hours). Next time, I'll line up the financing before hand, like I did with my previous purchase.
My second complaint? Dead battery when I went to take my new 'Burb home. Since the truck only had 40 miles on it (not many long test drives), the alternator didn't have enough time to charge the battery up from frequent starts, testing of the interior gadgets, etc. You would think that they would charge the battery up when they detail the car. Then, once we jumped the battery, the engine went into "recovery mode" with reduced power...almost thought that I would have to leave the dang thing there. But, I cranked it up again and got it to start up normally (albeit, with the check engine light on). The next morning, everything seemed normal...started up fine, no check engine light, etc. I think that the dying battery jolted the computer a little bit. Anyway, GM didn't inspire a ton of confidence as I left (can anyone say, "extended warranty"?) After owning a flawless Isuzu Trooper for the last 2 years, I may be in for quite a shock. Who knows??? In order to make me happy, they threw in a free fill-up and oil change when I come in for the first service, without any asking on my part. Good service, I think.
In any event, I'm very happy with the purchase...just in time for a long trip through California to visit both sets of grandparents for Christmas. Being a 4-time Suburban owner, my father-in-law will be excited to see a new 'Burb pull up his driveway.
Now, a quick question: did everyone really baby the truck through the break-in period? After 500 miles, did you drive it normally? Anything else a new owner needs to know? Early oil-change?
Again, thanks for the advice. And if anyone wants to know more about my experience with the Chevy dealer in Las Vegas in more detail, then don't hesitate to e-mail me.
Other than more $$'s and a few additional options on the Yukon XL, is there any reason for the Yukon XL other than badge engineering?
Will be towing total of 5000 lbs. (track car and trailer). Will the 5.3L be enough to get it out of its' own way while on the highway at speed?
Thanks in advance for any input.
The boat seems to have more drag than a car on trailer. I used to have a 944t that I towed with my 95 to D.E. and club races. I figure that rig weighed about 5500 lbs and it towed great. Even up to Watkins Glen I could go 70mph with no problems.
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
Have never done Watkins Glen...yet.
Looks like the the 5.3 will do. Did you get Autoride suspension for load leveling?
Again, thanks for the feedback.
2) If you're towing a race car, you're undoubtedly a 'shoe, and would really prefer the 6.0L with the 4:10 rear end.
3) Actually, what you really want is the 8.1.
-- Don
you able to tow in fourth gear? Or are you towing mostly in third?
Tarman sounds like you did OK! I didn't think
there were to many '01 subs out there. That
rebate was a nice chunk of change. I hope they
do something like that on the 2002's.
Initial symptoms where higher rpm's at a given speed, followed very quickly by lurching acceleration. Then a loud bang, and a complete lockup, even in neutral. Luckily, the complete failure didn't occur until we were in the driveway. The towing company could hardly get the 'burb on the flatbed because everything was locked up so bad.
When I had the '95 I had to tow in 3rd. With the '01 I use the tow/haul except an occasional downshift on a steep hill. I will even shift in the mountains when I am not towing.
I tow my boat from NYC metro area to Lake Champlain in the most Northern part of VT. The hills in the center of rte. 89 will slow me down to 55 or so, but it is certainly manageable.
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
Newbie here...just bought an '02 4WD LT 1500. (This is my second one- had a 99 that was involved in a head on collison that me and my kids walked away from-thanks GM, but was never quite right after they put it back together) so I have a new one. I have a quick question about breaking in the engine...I saw that someone said to change the oil every 500 for the first 1500 miles...is this a good plan? If so, why?
Thanks!! PS anyone in the Boston area read the article on the OP Ed page about how SUV owners had the most flags on their trucks after 9/11?
tidester
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SUVs
I changed mine at 3400 the first time and had the oil analysed and there was quite a bit of metal and higher than normal levels of chemicals in the sample. I just changed it again at 9200 and the analysis showed that most of the metals were back to normal levels and some chemicals where a little elevated. If I were to do it over again, I'd change at 1500, 3000, and probably 5000 and then stay with around 5000-6000 miles after that.
Campo57
also. I elected to buy a 3/4 ton YokonXL because
almost all the people on this site said that the
half ton was a little under powered for a load
like that. I didn't want to be in 3rd gear most
of the time. But you seem to have a different
experience.
-- Don
-- Don
I think there is a flaw in the new Suburban design & want to know how many other people have this problem. Please e-mail me at tm@spot4vision.com.
i was behind a new Suburban at a stoplight and there was a late '70's model next to it. I swear, the new one was a foot taller!!
GM needs to quit with that, and get the vehicle down over the tires