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2001 Suburban 1500 2wd
Without going back and reading all 2000 posts, will anyone be kind enough to answer a quick question?
I'm having a noise from the belt idler pulley that only happens when cold. The dealer has replaced the pulley but it has not helped much. Any suggestions/comments?
2500 part # is 15059383 @ $161.52 + S/H
Denali # is 16252295 @ $167.21 + S/H
Escalade # is 15073350 @ $207.10 + S/H.
The transmission temperature data is already being sent to your existing cluster from the transmission. All you need to do is change the cluster to display it, by carefully removing the trim bezel (pulls off, you may need to move the shift lever for clearance), remove (4) screws, remove the multi-conductor cable connector from the rear, & install the new cluster reversing these steps. I installed the 2500 cluster to my 2001 YXL, as it matches the existing 1500 cluster perfectly. It took me perhaps 20 minutes total, being very careful. The Denali, & Escalade clusters are totally different in appearance, & I believe that at least the Escalade offers a 120 MPH speedometer, but the MPH resolution is less. As campo57 said, you need to have the mileage & engine hour data transferred to the new or have a sticker added to the door indicating that the odometer has been modified. This data is kept in the cluster, not the vehicle's computer. Buying from gmpartsdirect was both easy & saved about $108 from retail. I always have installed a trans temp gauge in all my tow vehicles. This is by far the best appearing setup, as it is built in, not added on. I tried to order the vehicle w/ this cluster, but it is only available from the factory on 2500, Denali, & Escalade models. Good luck, let me know what you decide, & if you need any other help. Dave
What's the story?
Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley) #01-02-32-007
Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley)
2001-02 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 1500 Series Utility Models (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL)
Built at Janesville Assembly Plant (Plant Code J) from December, 2000 through July, 2001
Condition
Some customers may comment on a whining-type noise that is audible in the vehicle's passenger compartment. This noise can typically be heard when the vehicle is idling and may vary in pitch as engine RPM is increased.
Cause
The power steering (PS) pump pulley may be positioned too far inboard on the PS pump.
Correction
Inspect the PS pump pulley for proper positioning on the PS pump shaft. If it is determined that the pulley is not even/flush with the end of the shaft (+/- 0.25 mm (0.010 in) following the applicable Service Manual procedure and using J 25034-C, reposition the PS pump pulley.
of 12.59 mpg, mixed city and highway. 14335 miles, 1107 gals. $0.08 per mile, avg $1.09 per gal. No towing yet, but best mpg is 15.5 on a 1953 mile trip, worst was 9.2 all town driving.
(did not buy it for the gas mileage)
only have about 2000 miles on it. I don't have a heavy foot, although my wife is a little pepper than I. I have read on this board of people getting a little better mileage, up to 16 & 17 highway. Can I expect the mileage to increase as I
rack up more miles on the truck, or is this it?
My mileage on the 1st tank was 14.3, mixed driving, after that it went down to 12.4.
I also notice the transmission doesn't shift the same way as other cars I've owned. It shifts at
set speeds. Light engine load or RPM will not cause it to shift earlier. It will not go into
4th gear until 50mph. I think this contributes to my lower mileage. I have to get it over 50, I
can't hang around 45mph.
Also I can't feel the shift points to well. I think this is because I don't accelerate very hard. Does anyone else experience this behavior?
to shift earlier
As to the driveline clunk, we would get it when we hit small bumps or pulled out of the driveway (causing the front end to drop quickly off of the lip). They told us that there was a TSB issued for a poorly designed transmission yoke. This included a new U-joint assembly. I had it in for its 30,000 mile service at the same time. Picked it up and the clunk was gone. But the car now had a high-pitched vibration between 70 and 75 mph. Took it back to the dealer. Get a call that is still amazing:
"Sir, the new yoke we installed is not the right one. GM does not make the correct yoke to fix this problem. The U-joint is the wrong size and is slipping back and forth. It is dangerous to drive and we are installing your old, defective yoke." When I asked what THAT meant, I was told that GM hoped to have a correct part in a month or so - but that there were no guarantees. In the meantime I was stuck with the clunk. And guess what? Tonight we went on the freeway and discovered the high-pitched vibration IS STILL THERE! I suspect it is from the tire balance/rotation they also did at the same time. Sigh...
Since a few folks asked earlier about DVD entertainment, here is what we did: We installed a 13.5" LCD drop down TV in the roof (yes, we have a sunroof and it works fine). We then popped a Pioneer portable DVD player under one of the rear seats. The TV has three inputs, so we can also hook up the kids Xbox or whatever to it and they can play away. We did the Audiovox wireless headphones so that they could listen to what they wanted while we listed to what we wanted. The TV also uses a decent outside antenna, so we can get local weather reports (with radar maps) as we travel. It also taps into the stereo system if everybody wants to listen in. Yes, we also spend a LOT of time talking and playing family games on these trips (sans TV). But since some of them are 4,000+ miles roundtrip, the DVD/game system is a nice diversion for everybody.
If anybody wants pics of the install, just drop me an e-mail at Y2KGTS@aol.com. In the meantime, if anyone else has any suggestions on the transmission yoke or oil burning, that would be great!
Chris
Another possibility is that the vibration is that they messed up your u-joint when they changed the yoke, like dropping one of the needle bearings out. This will cause the vibration. Another thing they may have done is install the yoke out of phase with the drive shaft. What that means is when the drive shaft is balanced they do it as an assembly including the yoke. If they installed the yoke backwards(180 degrees flipped) them it can also cause a vibration.
extremely unacceptable! There is something wrong.
I keep hearing alot of people being told ridiculous problems are normal. According to some on this & other forums GM has come out with a TSB that says a quart in 1000 miles is OK, which I find ridiculous, That would mean if you change your oil every 4000 miles you would actually do two oil changes in 4000 miles.
I am sure 99% of owners don't experience this
amount of oil consumption when mountain driving.
Which means that something isn't right with your
truck.
Something seems to be changing when the engine is
under heavy load to let oil into the combustion
chamber,assuming it's not leaking out.
I'd have the dealer find out what it is & correct
it.
1. Do I really need the 4.10 axle?
2. If so, how much mileage will I sacrifice?
3. Is Auto-ride worthwhile in this situation?
Autoride is worth every penny!! I WILL NEVER buy another SUV without it EVER! It really smooths the ride like you wouldn't believe, and if you are going to tow with it, Autoride has a leveling feature that keeps the truck level with the weight of the trailer on the back. That will make it a much safer and easier to drive while towing. If you doubt what I say test drive a Denali XL and then a Burban. If your wife will be driving it most of the time then she will love the Autoride for the car like ride it will give. The problem is finding one that has it in your area, most dealers are not really savvy on what the system does or how it works, so they don't recommend it, or order it for the lot lizard trucks. You can still get an order in for one, and it shouldn't take that long to get, usually within 8 weeks you can get a 4wd 1/2 ton. If you have a reliable car and can wait for the ordered unit go that route and save up some more $$$ for the down payment.
Also in my earlier post you will see the changes on the '03 models. You may want to consider waiting until June/July and order a new one with all the updates. I have some picts I can email you if you want to see the difference. Dual climate controls will be really nice for driving with your wife, typically women want to have the heat on higher than the men do, so it will help out on the temp arguments!
I shot several more pictures of the install, including where the DVD is "mounted" (using Velcro) and how we connect up the video game consoles. Also pictured is the wireless headphone setup. E-mail me if you want those pictures and I will send you the links.
Thanks for the comments on the driveline clunk and vibration. It has been very helpful in discussing this with the dealer. She goes in tomorrow morning and will hopefully be fixed for good!
Chris
PS. I have never had a problem with the Autoride (33,000+ miles) and really like it as a feature.
How did you flip the picture upside down?
tidester
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SUVs
Chris
Everhart, what exactly failed on your neighbors truck? Is he overloading the system? How much does his trailer weigh? I am really interested in this because it is the first I have heard of on the system going out. $2800 is more than the option costs. He really shouldn't have to fight to hard with GM over the repair, if he had a problem with the system before the vehicle has a history of that problem and GM usually takes care of it no problem, especially if the same parts failed the 2nd time. My friend just had his seat repaired for the 2nd time in his truck and he has 41k on it, but since it had a history....
tidester
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SUVs
In fact I'd say the 6.0L and 3.73 pulls substantially stronger than the previous Sub. I towed the package up the same stiff grade with both I have been able to maintain about 9mph more at max speed (44mph) vs the 3/4 tons Subs max speed of 35mph. Would never go back although I would certainly consider the 3/4 ton with 8.1L if my tow package was any larger than the current one.
Also I agree the autoride is a must.
y2kgts: the picture of the TV setup looks great. I'll email you for more pictures, instal tips and pricing.
Here is a question, where is the best place to connect to power this equipment? I currently have a plug that I insert into the power outlet. This is only temporary until I find the right place to connect to an accessory power source.
The ads always sound like making gas out of water, you know ADDED POWER, RESPONSE, and MPG!!! and just $$$$.
Any thoughts? Here is a website for those who are also interested and I am told they are running a special for about $20 off the price.
http://www.ultimatepd.com/
I have a set of Firestone P265/70R16 that have 5000 miles on them that are for sale at a good price FOB that came off of a '00 Silverado K1500.
Sounds interesting. Would like to hear/see what you did. terryas@minspring.com
Thanks,
We have 3 small boys in car seats. The most functional set-up is to keep the the 60% seat in the second row flipped flat at all times. We put two child seats in the back row, and one behind the passenger seat. The flat space gives us space to check seatbelts etc without putting our backs, out, but still lets the boys climb in and out of their seats by themselves. Come the end of the winter, we clean up the car only to find linear brown streaks on the carpet back of the 60% fold down set. The lines match the seat suports perfectly. Lift up the carpet corners, and lo and behold the supports are completely rusted!! The rust is simply oozing through the carpet. Has anyone else had this problem? Should this be a warranty issue? If so, what should I expect as a repair or correction? If the seat back is designed to flip down to function as a floor platform then it should darn well be able to resist getting wet!! NO-one would stand for their floor rusting in a new upper $$ vehicle. The XL is only 16 months old. Any advice?
Thanks
Specific thanks to jgmilberg-your posts were the ones that got me thinking about making an upgrade.
Please post any info you have or send it direct to "bkinnaples@hotmail.com" Thanks, Brett
Desperately need more info.
jgmilberg - please consider posting the photos here.
fiberoptic-trng@erols.com
Thank you for your continued help to all on this
board.
There are more details in the Town Hall help about pic posting.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
tidester
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SUVs
I purchased a 2001 DXL because I wanted the 6.0 liter engine. I have been very pleased with the acceleration and trailering of this vehicle (it has the 3.73 with the 6.0 engine).
AS
Anyway, I started hitting the dealers today in Southern California (San Diego area). I saw in last weekends paper that 2-3 dealers have anywhere from $3000-4200 of MSRP and that's BEFORE the $2002 rebate. We're going to be looking at the 4X4 Sub LT, YXL SLT, or the Z71 package (leaning to Z71 right now because no cheesy molding onnthe sides). What has everyone else paid for these rides? Any input would be appreciated...Thanks!!
Good luck.
Posted my E-mail here but no reply.
Did see that GM is being sneaky. A couple of safety items that was standard they will now bill us for. The first I saw was ABS ( Braking System ) and the second was certain Air Bags.
No doubt they will say we are holding the price.
( They just changed a few items from standard to OPTIONAL = you pay. ) I hope they don`t go back to drum brakes as standard, and charge us for Disc.
tidester
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SUVs