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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1356772

Comments

  • Yes, the oily garage floor from the leaky lines... I'm on my 3rd set. Maybe we should send GM pictures of our dirty garage floors as evidence and the receipts for the concrete cleaner for reimbursement!

    I'm curious... front end work? Ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, ring a bell? Thankfully, extended warranty covered that repair.
  • I've had the whole works replaced on the front end of my '95 Jimmy.
    The mechanic claimed some are bad right out of the factory. I need
    to get the ball joints replaced again.
  • keewadinkeewadin Posts: 1
    My wrench told me that the fuel injection unit (referred to as the spyder)that sits on top of the 4.3 Vortec is prone to failure. It develops leaks which floods the engine. Starting first thing in AM is no problem but after that you have to floor the peddle (which "shuts off" the choke) to get it going if it sits for more than ten minutes.
    Car runs OK but he says as the leak gets worse starting and running will eventually deteriorate to not starting. Because the leak is internal there is supposedly no risk of fire. Anyone else had this problem in same or different model years? What was replacement cost?
    Thanks,
    Steve
  • bqchevybqchevy Posts: 1
    Did anyone find a aftermarket clamp for the 4.3 cooler lines that fail ?
  • venus194venus194 Posts: 1
    My son is home from the military and looking at purchasing a '97 Blazer with 47,000 miles. This vehicle MUST be reliable as he will be driving across the country when he returns to base. The dealership has suggested he buy an after warranty warranty. After reading some of these posts...I think maybe he shouldn't even BUY this vehicle. He will not be able to afford expensive repairs and so this vehicle (which he will be paying for for the next 5 years) needs to be problem free. What are the suggestions from this expert group?
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Posts: 6
    I am still trying to get mails for a recall. I have written MC about my intent, but all I have received so far was a automatic reply message telling me someone would write me back shortly. If you or anyone you know has had a problem with these oil cooling lines, please send a short mail to [email protected] so that I can gain some support. It seems there is an argument to be made, I just need some stories to back it up. Please pass this mail address around to any and all. This problem could end up costing YOU lots of money if we don't get something done about this problem. Feel free to post your own message on other message boards regarding this mail address and its intent.

    Thanks,
    Brandon
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    If he needs a reliable means of transportation there is no way I could recommend a '97 (or any year) Blazer/Jimmy. See my earlier post for the reasons. And add to that a gas gauge that was reading ½ tank with 298 miles on the trip odometer. I pulled into the first station I came to and put in 16.2 gallons. Either it just grew a 32.4 gallon gas tank or I can add another item to the list of why my '97 w/53K sucks. It's an SLT with all the bells and whistles, nice leather, 6 speaker CD, etc. etc. and I could care less. The "service engine soon" light is back on again and I just ignore it. In my mind I've written it off. Until it starts flashing and smoke rolls out from under the hood I won't give it a second thought. Once you have no faith in a car what good is it? On the 15th of next month I make the last payment. Big deal-now I can work on paying off the $1500 I borrowed on a home equity line to repair the transmission. Anyone who buys a Blazer/Jimmy should 1) Have plenty of cash 2) Live within walking distance of the dealer 3) Own a second vehicle.
    Glenn W
  • Yes, Poisondartfrog, I've replaced all of those. I'm really surprised at the late model Blazers having such a high failure rate on those. I thought it was the same structure that they've always used (mine is a 1990 S-10 Tahoe 2WD). They must have switched to lower quality parts. My situation was really that the upper control arm bushings had worn away. But for what the shops wanted to charge me to replace them, I did it myself and just replaced everything else while I was at it as the rest was fairly worn out. I replaced the upper and lower ball joints, coil springs, stabilizer bushings, upper control arm bushings, idler arm, tie rods, center link, ya da ya da ya da. It rides good and tight now. I certainly can't complain as it has 135K and a lot of that has been spent on some pretty crappy driving surfaces. It sounds like the later models don't hold up as well. My 1990 is as strong as it ever was. But when it does eventually die, I don't think I'll get a later model.
  • kritterkritter Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 jimmy slt and the radiator coolant turns brown and chunky, even after i had it flushed. I also have problems with the sepentine belt. The mileage on the car is low only, only 43000 miles. I also have a problem with the airconditioning and the heat. I freeze in the winter and sweat in the summer. neither really works
  • conmomconmom Posts: 1
    For the past three summers, my husband's 1994 Blazer has lost freon over the winter months. The first year he had it checked by the dealer for a leak and nothing was found and it was charged back up. The second season in the spring, again there was no freon. We took it to a repair shop, the service person couldn't find a leak and suggested it might have been "stolen" as freon was becoming a "commodity" as it's being phase out. Again, we had it charged back up. Last year, no freon and once again a different repair shop, same story. Now, once again this spring, we are faced with no freon and a "sneaky leak." Has anyone else had this problem and been lucky enough to discover where the leak was? I really doubt the freon fairy has been stealing from us for three years now! Thanks, Jen
  • I have a '98 LS 4WD with 40K that so far has had no mechanical problems (build quality and fuel economy are both troubling however). For the last 3K or so, the wipers seem to have a mind of their own, randomly choosing to wipe at full speed when on the lowest intermittent setting! Didn't seem to be a major problem but it has been worse and sometimes they won't operate at all (last time was in a heavy rainstorm...not fun). Any ideas?
  • kritter: I'd flush the coolant again. Many owners of S-trucks with Dexcool coolant have complained about sludge forming in system, to the point of clogging the heater core and overheating the engine. I have no faith in the 5 yr./100K mileage claim... I have mine flushed every 2 yrs., the same interval I follow for my other vehicles with the green stuff. The only advantage to using Dexcool is it contains no silicates, which is kinder to the water pump, which should increase its life.

    One point I should add is to NEVER mix Dexcool with the green stuff; I'm told you'll clog your system for sure.

    middcollkid: I am not certain, but if the Blazer is like other GM cars I have worked on, the intermittent wipe is controlled by a circuit board (timer), and is located in the wiper motor housing. I replaced a defective board after my wiper would "mist" three times instead of once, and also was inconsistent with the "delay" time.

    conmom: Maybe the leak occurs during cold weather, so I would have it leak-checked on a cold day. I suspect an o-ring has taken a "set" over 7 years, and it cannot expand (not as pliable) at lower temperatures, so it allows the Freon to escape. I'd first suspect the o-rings that seal the high and low pressure fittings at the back of the compressor, but that's just a guess.

    Oh, and I'd convert to R-134a, so that this sneaky leak doesn't cause as a big a leak in your wallet from the R-12 re-charge.
  • lueytlhlueytlh Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Chevy Blazer that has a case of the "Mississippi Mud". I've had to completely replace my radiator. My mechanic said he'd never seen anything like it in the 30 years he's worked on cars. Does anyone know what recourse I have with GM or what consumer protection agency to contact about this problem? If GM says, and they do so clearly, that the radiator should NOT be touched for 100,000 miles, they should pay for this repair. My Blazer had 79,000 miles on it when I first began having problems. Your help is appreciated. You can e-mail me @: [email protected]
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My 1999 4 Dr. 4x4 Blazer has a very annoying rattle that seems to be coming from the chassis. If I hit a small bump like patched pavement with only one front wheel I hear some type of knock or rattle from under the truck. I suspected the front skid plate under the oil pan, but I removed this plate and it is still there. It seems to be worse when it is raining outside. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate the help finding the source.


    For the record, the oil cooler line, power steering pump, both lower ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, heater core, radio, radio speaker, door hinge, both rear rotors, CV joint boot, tailgate light switch, have all been replaced under warranty. The truck now has 42k miles and the warranty period is over. Is this now a good truck? Do you think all this junk is going to need replacing in 30k miles again? Do you think these parts were just defective or are they very low quality? (GM should be asking these very same questions!)


    For all its bad points (quality) it does have some good points. The acceleration is amazing. According to my Gtech meter, this truck goes from 0 to 60 in 7.83 secs!! It is faster than my friends 2000 Maxima SE with auto, his time was 7.86 secs. The Blazer actually walks away from the Maxima from 0-35 mph and the Maxima catches up from 35-60mph. Braking is excellent (I replaced the pads at 35k miles) with after market pads. Handling is excellent for a SUV (I replaced the front stabilizer bushings with urethane). The highway ride is very good with the stock Bilstien shocks. The engine has a lot of power when towing heavy loads and the transmission does not hunt gears when towing.


    Too bad the Quality is very low. The interior has many rattles. The plastic construction is cheap and squeaks. The gears in the differential(s) whine or groan. The offset test results are so bad after seeing the pictures I can't get them out of my mind. The frame actually starts to bend in two in the middle! The Blazer was worst in class, http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/96002.htm#5


    If GM is not dumb enough, they then produce a GMC Jimmy commercial promoting the "industrial strength frame" on the Jimmy. They even give the engineer's name on who designed this death traps frame.


    Does GM think we are stupid? I guess so. But the real joke is on GM. GMs market share is going down. GM will not be the number automaker in a few years- and I wonder why!

  • hankjkhankjk Posts: 4
    I have a grinding sound coming from under the hood or front end of my new JIMMY. The truck has 125 miles on it. It seems to only happen when the truck is in gear,if I shift to park or neutral it stops. Any one else have a similar problem or have any ideas as to what it could be? I'm ready to take this truck back already( although I must admit I really like the truck other than this noise)
  • yes hank, I get that noise in my 2000 Blazer. If it's the same noise, it sounds like a low growling (or grinding) coming from directly behind the firewall. This only happens when the vehicle idles or is moving in lower gears. I've taken it to two different dealerships, and both of them have bullshitted me on the problem -- one of them saying it was the A/C compressor (after I hadn't used A/C in over two months), the other just topped off the power steering fluid. I do, however, believe this to be associated in some way with the power steering fluid pump. See if your noise gets louder as you turn the wheels hard to one direction or the other. Perhaps some air bubbles have formed within the power steering fluid reservoir? My next course of action will be to drain and replace the power steering fluid...I'm finished dealing with lazy car dealer mechanics who are unwilling or unable to constructively solve problems unless the procedures for doing so are handed down in a 'cookbook-style' training circular from the corporate office.
  • hankjkhankjk Posts: 4
    KOMATIITE sounds like the same exact problem. My dealer changed the pcv valve & now its fine.Sounds funny but have them give it a try.
  • aqua10aqua10 Posts: 1
    Has any one had problems with the ABS and brake lights (from the dashboard) coming on - (failing)

    My NEW 2001 Blazers ABS and brake light module has shorted out twice in 2 days. The dealer is fixing it again, but I am a little worried because the Blazer is only 2 days old. 49 miles
  • For the door hinge, were the pins and bushings replaced? I had mine replaced recently on my '97 Bravada at 46K miles. I've also heard some people need the hood hinge shimmed to get rid of a knocking noise over bumps.

    And, you didn't list the upper ball joints as being replaced... that may be another source of knocking from underneath the vehicle.

    BTW, what was the reason for the rear rotor replacement? I've noticed mine are below the service limit on the stock pads at 46K. It seems like the OEM pad material was too hard a compound?, and wears down the rotors prematurely (the rear pads still have half the original thickness left). I replaced the front pads with a softer compound... a little more brake dust, but I can modulate the brakes better and the pads should wear out before the rotors!
  • Found this link about Dexcool and whether it is linked to contamination in the cooling system. Have you checked your radiator cap lately?


    http://www.imcool.com/articles/anitfreeze-coolant/dexcool-macs2001.htm


    This link found at:


    http://www.s-series.org

  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    The entire upper hinge on the driver's door was replaced as a unit. The Blazer had to go to the dealer body shop for this because the hinge is welded to the body. The original hinge was replaced because the lower bushing cracked and allowed the door to sag. I have seen many Blazers with bad door hinges. One thing I did notice is that after I oil or grease the hinge it gets dry quickly because water from the windshield and roof runs on the hinge- another poor design.

    I found the rattle- it was coming form the oil pan skid plate. This plate is optional and most blazers do not have it. It seems that the lower control arm frame mounts move slightly when you hit a bump (possibly by design). The skid plate ties the lower control arm mounts together in the rear. Since the skid plate is a plastic non load bearing material it is not capable of being a support member, so GM made the skid plate with oblong bolts holes and spring washers so the skid plate can float on the rear mounts. I must have stuck the plate and moved one of the skid plate mounts that is attached to the lower control arm frame mount. This prevented the frame mount from moving as much at it needed. VERY POOR DESIGN.

    The rear rotors were replaced because of rust. They rusted so much that the disk brake material actually bonded to the rotor! I do use this SUV off road and on the beach, but I never had this type of problem before. The rotors also were very close to the service limit.
  • nenatnarnenatnar Posts: 1
    Does anyone know of a way (maybe a website) to find out how many '91 Full-size Blazers were made?

    I have a '91 Full-size 4WD Blazer that I am contemplating selling. It's been an absolutely great vehicle. No complaints from me. But I began to yonder...why don't I ever see other '91 Full-size Blazers driving around? I see all the other year Blazers on the roads. Especially '89s and '90s. But not mine.

    I bought it in '95 while living in California. Took it with me to FL for 2 yrs, and then to MI. I can recall maybe seeing 1 or 2 others in all my travels and commuting.

    I do know that the '91 Blazer was the last year of its kind. In '92, Chevy went to the new body style, and then to the Tahoe.

    I would hate to make a mistake selling mine if it is unique.
  • Thanks for the tip, Hank! I'll give it a try.
  • I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer ZR2. It has about 5,000 miles on it and I have noticed ever since I got the vehicle home that the passenger side of the SUV is lower from front to back than the driver's side. I checked the tire pressures and everything was ok. The lean is so noticeable that people often comment on it. I placed levels on the front and back of the vehicle and I can see that the passenger side is about an inch lower than the driver side. I have already had the vehicle in once and the dealer said everything was ok. I am bringing it back in the next couple of days and I would like to kill this problem. Any ideas?
  • pokey10pokey10 Posts: 14
    I had the same problem on my '97 blazer. Dealer had to adjust the torsion bars (takes the place of coil springs in 4x4's) and perform a front end alignment. Total cost was $70-80 dollars but yours should be covered under warranty.

    Since then I've had no more problems with the truck leaning. Hope this helps.
  • Pokey10....thanks for the advice. I'll take that up with the Service Manager when they tell me nothing is wrong.
  • pjs36pjs36 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jimmy with 9600 miles on it. From new it has had a very annoying noise coming from behind the dash when the car is first started. It sounds like a speedometer cable used to when they needed grease in the old days. The noise goes away when the car warms up or when I shift it out of gear to N. Been to the dealer 3 times for a total of 6 days. They rerouted fuel lines that they say were rubbing on the firewall, they re-insulated behind the dash, and most recently found a loose bolt on the a/c compressor that they felt sure would fix the problem. I'm not a rattle fanatic but this makes the car sound like it has 100,000 miles on it. Any suggestions? My dealer seems to do a good job when they can be told what the problem is.
  • PJS--- If you read some of the other posts in the list, notice that some similar problems were remedied by replacing the PCV valve on the engine...

    hope it helps!
  • All the engines in the Blazer take 87 octane but all this time i've been putting 93 premium because i thought it would burn better or would it? Im not sure what to put in it. But people say i should put 87 octane because it extends the life of your truck. But premium sounds better to put in what should i do? please give me a feedback thanx
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    what does the owners manual suggest?

    87 octane.

    Thats what i run in my silverado, my mom runs in her 2000 blazer and my dad runs in hos 92 S-10.

    All are in great shape never had any gas related problems

    Ryan
  • In response to message #131, be careful about gasoline octane ratings. Just because an octane rating is higher, it does not mean it is a better gasoline for your engine. The Vortec 4.3 liter engine has a normal compression ratio that is designed to function with 87 octane gasoline. The higher the octane the more combustion pressure heat it can withstand before it spontaneously detonates. Therefore, higher octane fuels are only necessary in engines with normally high compression ratios. Where there is high enough compression heat that would ordinarily pre-ignite 87 octane fuel, you need the higher octane gasoline to prevent the unwanted, ill timed combustion that will damage your engine. In short, gasoline with an octane rating above 87 is a waste of money in the Vortec 4.3 liter, unless you have significant carbon deposits in the combustion chambers that have raised the combustion ratio to the point it pre-ignites 87 octane. In that case, higher octane gasoline is a short-term fix for an engine that needs service.
  • slc123slc123 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Blazer and the ABS light recently came on. The dealer said the Vehicle Control Module needed to be replaced, which with parts and labor amounts to $400. If it is not replaced, the brakes will still work, but the ABS feature would not. This car only has 43,000 miles, but the dealer said he had seen 2001 models with the same problem. Frustrating!!!
  • My 1988 Jimmy has 2.8 liter fuel injection motor and will not start. I have power and gas going to the injectors but it will not start. I changed the injectors, and still have the same problem. ANY HAVE THIS PROBLEM?
  • mted23mted23 Posts: 16
    FYI for everyone who has had leaking oil cooler lines: I had my 99 Blazer with 44000 miles in the dealer last week because these lines were leaking. I asked the service writer for any assistance on paying for this fix. He told me to call the Chevy 800 number. The service writer told me he sees about 5 vehicles a week with the 4.3 and leaking lines. This is one of six service writers at the dealer so I figure the other writers see just as many in a week. I called the 800 number and was prepared to talk to supervisors to get some help. The customer service rep listened to my problem and put me on hold for about 5 minutes. She had contacted the dealer and they worked out that my leak would be written under a warranty repair. I was shocked that there were going to pay the full $250 for the repair. This restored some of my faith in GM (not all) after I just told my wife we will never by a GM again. Hope this helps anyone who is having this problem.
  • ajmertajmert Posts: 1
    I have a '91 S-15 Jimmy that gets absolutely horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. I still get right around 10 miles to the gallon maybe up to 13 on the highway. It seems to have alot of hesitation just after shifting into second gear. I usually burn ethanol gas and when I start the truck after it has been sitting for a while it blows a puff of smoke out the exhaust. Does anyone have any suggestions on the gas mileage or any idea what this puff of smoke is?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    A month ago Chevrolet also replaced my oil cooler lines, out of warranty, after a call to Chevrolet customer assistance. My 99 Blazer had 42k miles at the time. The dealer only replaced the oil lines from the remote oil filter adapter to the radiator.

    Now the oil lines from the engine to the remote adapter are starting to leak with 43k miles. Has anyone had these lines leak too? Although I know this is an inferior design I do give them credit for taking responsibility.
  • logan_5logan_5 Posts: 3
    Maybe someone, other than the "helpful" people at GM, can help me in finding additional information regarding crash safety on the Blazer. Below is a letter I wrote to GM requesting more info on the subject, and their "helpful" reply. I'm hoping someone in this forum can help me. Also, does anyone know where I can get braking distance comparisons?

    My email: "I want to buy a new Blazer but my wife is seriously against it because she saw that the Blazer scored "Poor" in the Front Offset crash test conducted by NHTSA. I have been trying to find any available data on the web to refute this, or find additional data, to show her that the Blazer is in fact a safe vehicle; like handling comparisons with other vehicles, braking distance comparisons, other crash data, etc. Could you please mail me all info you have and/or give me some web addresses to visit to help my cause?"

    Their Reply: "Thank you for contacting the Chevrolet Internet Response Center.

    It is always a matter of importance when one of our current or potential customers has a concern about one of our products. All of our vehicles meet or exceed 2001 Federal Crash and Safety Standards set by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).
    If you have concerns with the crash test rating of the Blazer please bring it to the attention of your authorized Chevrolet Dealership. We have included dealerships in your area that may be of some assistance to you."

    Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
  • It sounds like when you write Ted Kennedy asking him to support the 2nd Amendment.

    He'll write back thanking you for supporting gun control, and did you visit the Kennedy library and did you know John was his brother?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    logan_5- Are you trying to get GM to admit they have a poor design on their hands with millions of people driving it? This is how I rationalized this SUV. In most crashes the heavier car you are in, the better. If a 4100 lb Blazer hits a 5 star rated 3200 lb Honda Accord, each going 30 mph, head on, the Honda driver is going to be subject to much more force. This is pure physics. Slightly after impact the Blazer will slow down and the Honda will actually be pushed backwards.

    However, things change when vehicle dynamics is the only factor, such as hitting a bridge. In this case you are purely dependant on your cars structure because the bridge will not absorb any energy. The Honda should be safer in this case(this is when the Blazer frame starts to bend in the center).

    When you factor in the SUV rollover death rates, the SUV weight advantage starts to diminish. In short, if you are looking for safety the Blazer is not the SUV for you. It is not wide enough to be very stable and has a poor frame design.
  • kadcockkadcock Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Blazer that's a real looker but mechanically a piece of junk. The one problem that I can't seem to fix is the bad miss at idle. It first started when the EGR valve went out and had to be replaced THREE times in a two week period. Once I got that fixed there was a miss at idle. I changed plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor button. The service engine soon light comes on when the engine idles for a minute or so and blinks. The codes is a miss in cylinder three. The plug was good so I took it to a dealer and they said the compression was 30 pounds, (I measured 90) and that the valve was probably burnt. They quoted me a price of nearly $1000.00 for a re-worked head. I told them to jump in the river and pulled the head myself, (which is enough to make you hate GM products). The exhaust valve was covered with carbon. I pulled the valve and polished it removing all pits. I put the head back on and it still has a miss at idle. Otherwise, it runs fine. Anybody got any ideas?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Kadcock- I feel your pain here. My best guess is a stuck or dirty pop valve in the CPI injectors or injector itself. I have seen this before any GM has a TSB on it. I have two recommendations. Have the fuel injection cleaned professionally or add fuel injector cleaner to a few tanks of gas. As for the carbon GM top engine cleaner works very well. I would do these two “tricks” before taking apart the engine. The 4.3 has a very good track record, but carbon, EGR, and CPI unit are “weakest links”.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    I too had a problem with the EGR valve and rough idle on my 1993 SLT Jimmy w/4.3L v6 Vortec. After replacing the valve it ran fine. However, when I went on vacation about two months later the same sort of thing happened. The local tech put his meter on the computer port and it said EGR valve bad. The EGR valves cost me around $250 each. After replacing the valve twice I decided to put the original valve back on the engine for a look see. The engine ran fine no matter what valve I put on it.

    I started noticing that when the engine was first started in the mornings (initially) it idled roughly. Has time has gone on it is getting worse. After it worms up the problem goes away. The engine runs smoothly and with lots of general power. This all started in 1998 and in the past year the “Check Engine Soon” light now comes on when I accelerate quickly and then let off the gas just as fast.

    I have thoughts to replace the Catalytic Converter to see if backpressure is causing this problem. Backpressure would push the valve open at idle and cause it to flood the combustion chambers with excess exhaust. Please let me know if any of you have the same type of problem.
  • logan_5logan_5 Posts: 3
    abc246 - No, safety is not my primary concern. The reason I'm looking for any further safety data on the Blazer is so I can defuse my wife's concerns on the IMH's Offset crash results for the Blazer. If I can show her data proving that it is safe in all other categories then she will feel better about my buying the vehicle.

    See, that one test, the Offset test, is the one stumbling block to my buying the Blazer. My brother is a lead mechanic at a local Chevy dealership and can get me a great deal on it, and I know that any problems I have with it will get taken care of personally by him.

    I don't want to end up having to buy someone else's SUV.
  • sv310sv310 Posts: 2
    I too have a 95 blazer that started out idling rough and the engine light coming on. Then the engine just quit. They said my ear valve was bad.
    They replace that and also had to replaced the fuel injectors. Most of it was covered under warranty. 3 times I had to take my blazer in for rough idling. They said they had to clean all the carbon deposits out of the ear valve. What a pain.
    All new fuel injectors and a new valve. For a total of over $1700.00 I had to pay about $400 of it. I read a lot about blazers and this is common in most of them. Blazer looks great but doesn't run worth anything. Buy Toyota.
  • sv310sv310 Posts: 2
    I too have a 95 blazer that started out idling rough and the engine light coming on. Then the engine just quit. They said my egr valve was bad.
    They replace that and also had to replaced the fuel injectors. Most of it was covered under warranty. 3 times I had to take my blazer in for rough idling. They said they had to clean all the carbon deposits out of the egr valve. What a pain.
    All new fuel injectors and a new valve. For a total of over $1700.00 I had to pay about $400 of it. I read a lot about blazers and this is common in most of them. Blazer looks great but doesn't run worth anything. Buy Toyota.
  • tonychrystonychrys Posts: 1,310
    Having done plenty of crash test safety research (I wouldn't be caught dead in a blazer even though I could get it cheap also), I can tell you are mixing apples and oranges.

    The IIHS does the offset crash tests and the NHSTA does the full frontal, and front- and rear-side crash tests. Many folks put more importance on the IIHS tests since they approximate a typical collison when someone crosses the double-yellow line.

    The bottom line is that the 2001 Blazer/Jimmy did poorly on all the tests. I don't care how much money I can save, I won't put a price on my family's life. Throw in the fast depreciation because of the new 2002 models, plus the spotty reliability record, and you've got one heck of a "value" here.

    Also, being a current GM owner, I can do without all the "cheapness" of the typical GM plastics and interior parts. This stuff is garbage.

    Of course, your milage may vary.
  • ushebausheba Posts: 1
    Hey guys im thinking of buying a 1997 jimmy sle 4x4 for 12900.00. its pretty clean.it needs new tires though.ive been reading some of the posts that are on here now im afraid to buy a jimmy. could they be that bad?the jimmy has 74,000 miles on it. what do you recommend to check out. thanks in advance for any help you can give.
  • astrolannastrolann Posts: 1
    I just got 1999 Blazer LT 4wd and love it so far. This thing is fully loaded, how do I find out what all the options {RPO Codes} that are listed in the glove box? One other question, is there a red or hot wire installed with the other wires a the rear of the car?
  • cliffwilsoncliffwilson Posts: 25
    In response to message #144, don't overlook a simple solution to your rough idle problem. Namely, the idle air control valve. Over time, the pintle on the valve will accumulate carbon deposits and impede the flow of air necessary for a smooth idle. Assuming the stepper motor that powers the valve is operating, a simple cleaning of the carbon deposits from the pintle will restore the engine's normal idle. Remember all the crankcase fumes are going into the intake manifold when the PCV valve is open. This is the source of carbon that forms on the IAC valve and the throttle plate.
  • fairkimfairkim Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2000 LS 4x4 Blazer with 32000; prior rental vehicle. I am ecstatic with the price ($16,500) as well as the overall condition. i just stumbled across this section of edmunds. any advice? did i get a good deal? anything i should do to be proactive? I also purchased a 1300.00 bumper to bumper warranty for 6yrs/75,000 miles. again any comments?

    thanks.
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