I'm having the exact same problem, except mine wont restart easily. It'll take an unspecified amount of time (from seconds to minutes, most being 10 so far) before the dash will "light up" so that I may try to start the engine. IN a nut shell, it looks as if the dash is losing connectivity to the PBC and then that's killing the fuel pump, distributor system, ect.
I am going to replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor on a 1998 ZR2 Blazer 4.3L... Just would like to have a heads up for any difficulties... I Have a standard socket set w/ spark plug socket... do I need any special tools I.E. wobble extension, or other weird stuff? Any insight will be helpful... I hate running to the parts store halfway through a job... Thank You!!!
Same problem here with my 1999 Blazer. Just randomly decides to not start. :sick: It crank fine, no problem lights or any other problems. Dealer could not find any problems in their diagnostic but it was ready for a major tune up for $700 so I had that done. Two weeks later the problem happened again. :lemon: Read your post and went out and banged on the gas tank with a 1920's police stick. I really can't believe that fixed the problem but it did!!!!!!! So now I carry it in the car with me. Not sure if this is related but the three times that this problem has happened I had just filled up the tank. Think I am gonna just fill up to 3/4 of a tank for a while and see if the problem returns. Thanks again for the highly technical solution.
I have a 93 Chevrolet S10 Blazer with the 4.3L V6 engine code W. We have changed just about everything on it ranging from a new fuel injector,fuel pump and filter,O2 sensor,mass airflow sensor,new spark plugs and plug wires, new distributor and rotor button,put new ground wires to the motor,new motor mounts,we're at wits end trying to figure out why this truck keeps dieing when you turn a corner slow or when its ideling or in park. Had a compression check on it all cyclinders were between 140 and 145 has great compression. Has a miss in it can't figure that out either. Any suggestions be very very glad to take them. Thank You.
I have a 1996 Jimmy that hesitate some time when i'm driving and the rpm start going back. Please would some one tell me what you think this problem is?
I am having a problem with the digital instrument panel on my 1991 jimmy S10, The speedo + directional keeps going off, sometimes for days at a time? but everything else is ok, gas/temp/oil/battery displays etc,How can i trace the fault,or do i have to replace/repair the whole dash ? If so, do any of you guys know anyone in the states where i can get a replacement, used parts dealers/breakers or repairers etc.Thanks up front for any help
I have the same problem with my 98 Blazer ZR2... I found that there are vacuum actuators behind the counsel (behind stereo and heater controls) that actuate the little "doors" that redirect airflow in the ductwork back there. Either your actuators aren't actuating most likely because of a vacuum line leak or disconnection, or you are like me and the actual "door" flap inside is broken... My actuators actuate, but it just blows out the front vents but no defrost. If I stick a coat hanger up the floor duct, I can move the door and the defrost works!!! I am just too lazy to tear the whole dash out yet, so I live with it... You are probably better than that HAHA, any way, have fun. By the way any hints on replacing spark plugs???? Thanks, Mike
I have had this same problem too! It hasn't happened for a long time, but there was a few times where the vehicle upon accel would have a "hole" for a brief moment and then start climbing again... I have a 98 Blazer ZR2 4.3L. If anyone knows what this was, please let us know. Thanks, Mike
I have a 94 s10 blazer with 185,000 miles on it, (Runs Great). I have used the 4wd in the past, but when i went to engage it the other day 4hi will no longer engage and 4lo will. Whenever the 4lo is engaged the 4hi and 4lo lights stay on. It didnt use to be like that, if someone could help me i would greatly appreciate it. :confuse:
I have a 2001 Blazer 4x4 with a strange problem. When I accelerate, usually from a dead stop, I can hear water rushing and gurgling behind the dash. It sounds like it is behind the glove box. It settles down once the engine speed drops back, and I hear it mainly when I'm using the A/C. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be?
II have a 2005 GMC Jimmy 2door 4wd. My truck vibrates at 100-110km it started at 16,000km and now I’m at 40,00km they have been unable to fix it. The worst part is I use to work for Gm dealership up until a month ago. They are still claiming it’s tires, I had 2 set put on and it doesn’t make a difference. Plus my driveshaft was changed, rear rotors all because they thought it was the vibration. I personal thing it’s coming from gear box. All I want is for GM to help resolve this issue. I heard they are selling the Jimmy brand new for $13,000 in the Toronto just to get them off inventory. There is a problem and Gm needs to out source the problem and have fresh eyes look at these trucks
97 jimmy randomly dies while traveling on the highway. I have recently had the transmission rebuilt. I also had the ignition switch replaced, but the stalling was happening before the ignition switch was replaced. I had hoped this was the problem. The temperature has been normal. have not had lights on to indicate a code.
Your heater core is located beneath your glove box in the vehicle fire wall. Water circulating thru your heater core is probably making the noise. Mine started making gurgling sounds before it went bad. You'll know when it goes bad, it will start to leak, usually on your passenger side floor board.
2003 GMC Envoy Took in to the dealer at 15,000 miles for pulsating brakes Dealer said Rusty and dirty cleaned them up. Brakes still pulsated but we figured it was due to Anti-Lock Now 30,000 miles. Brakes pulsating and squeaking on start up. Took to repair shop. Mechanic said we had to replace all four brakes and rotors. Called dealer, Dealer said probably weather related, not covered by warranty.
Told mechanic to replace the brakes. This is what they told us. Pads would not slide on caliper brackets. The Sliders and caliper brackets were NEVER LUBED! This caused, rusted rotors and warped rotors.
Repair shop gave me the old parts.
Question: At 15,000 miles we took it to dealer. I wonder what the dealer told GM and or charged warranty service? Could the dealer have charged GM and not done anything? If so how can I find out?
Mine was doing the same thing shook from day one right off the lot...4 sets of tires all pressure balanced still shook at 100-110 km.. 2 service field techs looked at it and they could not solve the problem...Sad thing is GM will not own up to it being an issue and blames it on tires this is not true..They are covering up something and are waiting for most to exceed the 60,000 km warranty and the issue is then out of their hands...It is sad when a big corporation like GM can not own up to a prob with a vehicle try and resolve it rather than beat around the bush with it and blame it on tires...This is why they are blowing them out so cheap..We all need to get together form a class action against them then maybe they will open their eyes and admit they do have a problem with the Jimmy..The dealership where I bought mine has 15 with this problem and 4 more on the lot that vibrate this is not tires...Call GM customer service voice your complaint, we need more to do this and hopefully they will realize that there is a problem... :mad:
Hello I have a 98 Blazer and recently my engine started hesitating slightly. Initially it was just a slight hesitation, and could really only be felt at slow speeds or at a stop. Lately it's gotten worse, getting to the point where if feels like it could die. Have noticed it doesn't start hesitating until the engine warms up. Changed the fuel filter, no change. Today, after returning from a drive, popped the hood and looked around. Heard what sounded like a clicking sound coming from the area around the distributor cap (can't quite pinpoint source of sound). The clicking seems to preceed the hesitation, then stop as the hesitation ceases. I have no "check engine" light. Additionally, and not sure if this is relevant, I removed the are intake from the throttle body and the engine died. Probably normal, but not sure. Any thoughts?
I have a 1996 Blazer that will run just fine until it sits for a couple hours then it wont start, but if you prime it with gas it will start right up and run fine, we were thinking fuel pump but just recently found out there is a fuel relay. does anyone know where this is located and if this could be the problem, I would much rather spend 10 on the relay then go out and pay over 200 for the pump. :sick:
If your relay is the same as mine in my 98 Blazer, it's located in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side. You could possibly swap it with another in the fuse box to verify if it's bad or good. Mine was the same relay as the horn and fog lamp relays. I don't think the relay will be the problem though. I believe your fuel check valve (whose purpose is to keep the fuel lines primed) is failing, which should be located within your fuel pump assembly. But of course check your relay first, it's quick and simple.
Here's a link that may help you figure this thing out: Link to page
We have the same problem with 95 Jimmy. Everything works OK until you start up a long hill. Then the reduced vacuum apparently allows the door to move to the 'defrost' position, and the only air that comes out is on the windshield. As soon as you let off the gas the vents return to the selected position. Does anyone know where I can get a diagram of the vacuum hose layout on these vehicles? Thx Jim
I just got a 95 jimmy last week. It runs great---little rough compared to my geo car i had before, but i am guessing it is because it is a truck,,, anyway---i love this fourm---I have been searching for a few answers and everyone seems nice here so I thought i would give it a try. Here's the problem. The service engine soon light is on... now i have read a few of you have had this problem and i have learned a little about the "gas cap" problem.... Could this be true??? i got a 'cheap" cap at struss auto parts. clearly doesn't fit---but on there for now..... can anyone tell me where to get the correct cap for this ??? I am told ACdelco is good, and don't say GMC dealer, because they said they are out (seems strange?) anyway i guess i could order from them , but hopefully can find one sooner then later, if you know what i mean. ... one more thing---- the mechanic who hooked up computer to car said the readout looked like bad gas and that i should try an octane booster and getting better gas a few times --- which might flush out particles in the tank.... any suggestions?? oh yea---the Air conditioning unit makes a little noise when i run it---could this be a problem with the "service " light coming on? any suggestions? thank you.
I have 1995 gmc jimmy and I can remove all the spark plugs but one. The spark plug is the middle one on the drivers side. The steering wheel drive shaft is in the way and I am unable to remove the spark plug. Is there a special tool or trick to remove it. Any help would be very appreciated.
I have a 95 Jimmy 4wd, the check engine light is on , I am not sure how to get it off ---the previous owners may have used the 4wd leading to the problem you outlined in your message.(#90 of 1590 by tgraham2) I believe there is a slight delay in my transmission, and I am going to have my mechanic take a look at the remote oil cooler lines. I need the car inspected soon, and I am worried it won't pass. I will sign any petition out there to get a recall. Thanks
Does anyone know what the problem is when computer is reading code P0441 with the "service engine soon" light on for a 95 jimmy 4wd. any help would be much appreciated
P0441 is: EVAP system - no flow during purge cycle
Do a google search using "P0441", and/or "no flow during purge cycle" and you should come across some possible causes, or other people's experience with this fault code.
Thank you caylorray!! I found some info that i hope will work when i try it tomorrow--i will quote it here in case anyone else has this problem with SES: "Mine did the same thing. Caused a SES light for 1.5 years until I figured out the problem. More than likely, it's a bad evaporative emmissions vaccuum switch. It is located below the coil packs on the back side of the engine if you are standing in front of the car. There is a bracket that is held onto the same studs as the coil assembly, and the part you want is on the left hand side of that bracket. The purge solenoid, is on the right. You want the the switch, not the solenoid. Of course, check your vaccuum lines around there and make sure none are disconnected which would give you the same error, but chances are, it is that part. Cost me like 25 bucks at a parts distributor. Once you have checked all your connections to make sure you don't have a leak, or loose hose, try that part. You may also want to take the car to an Autozone or something and have them clear the codes for you. Otherwise, there are some certain criteria that have to be met before the computer will realize that the system is working properly with the new switch installed and the SES light won't go out right away. Let me know if it works for you."
I took my Blazer into the dealer and was told my heater core was plugged up and I needed an acid flush of the heater core, new fuel filter, and to clean the fuel injectores, all to the tune of close to $600. When I hesitated about the reapairs, I was told I could get by with just a coolant flush for $250 (with filter and injector cleaning) and that would "make the heater core happy for 4 to 6 months." Since I know nothing about the mechanics of cars, can anyone tell me if this is on the right track or is the dealer costing me more money than necessary? :confuse:
Please help! My husband and I bought a 2000 ZR2 4x4 a little over a year ago, and what a nightmare of a year its been. With last years problems aside, nothin has gone right this year since June. The truck left my hubby sit then, dealer said it was a crank sensor, they replaced that and did an induction service on the engine. When we picked it up, theres a rattle that wasn't there before, so back it goes. Now the cat convert is bad. This dealer (not a chevy dealer) sends it to a chevy dealer to have the cat replaced under the man war. It only has 44000 miles on it. We pick it up, within 1 week the engine light comes on and the fun begins. The o2 sensor has no activity and multiple cyls are misfiring. They replace the sensor, change the plugs (we changed the wires, rotor and cap.) They tell us it stills runs a little rough and they think the #1 injector is bad. We pick it up (and by the way, when you turn the defrost off, it runs great!) So, that's it, we're done right? Wrong, a month later, and a month of it runnin like a champ I might add, the engine light is on again. We have 5 codes in all now. Two P0134 - o2 no activity, P0171 - system too lean, P01133 - fuel air metering, and P0300 - multiple cyls misfiring. I don't know what to do now! We have heard so many different senarios, the dealers are just nickel and diming us to death, and we just can't afford much more. Just seems funny to me everything was great until this crank sensor and cat were replaced. Please, if anyone has any advise on what the issue may be with this darned truck and where we should go from here, please, please help us!! :confuse: Thanks so much in advance!
Let a shop clean the screen under the intake. Carbon builds up in there. The AC bearings are getting bad you can replace just the bearings or replace the Compressor later and pay about 260.00 to 450.00 later for AC work. Replace the bearings that way you won't have to open the system which may cause more damage.
I have changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor and both O2 sensors. Vehicle still is running rich and is getting about 8 mile/gals Check engine light stays on Any suggestions would be appreciated
Hi All !! Just got back from a NYS inspection station and my 95 jimmy pasted despite the fact that the Service light engine light was on (well,,,before i went in i dislocated the negative (-) connector to the car battery for a minute, put it back on and the light goes off [a little tip i got from the gmc service man on the phone]) Anyway the guy was cool at the inspection place--I told him what was going on and he said that because it is a '95 the computer will pass certain things (anything 96+ has more standards or something like that) Go figure??? Anyway I want to thank caylorray, alcan, and dreatl for the suggestions. After I left the ins. station (very happy) with the SES light still off---I drove for a while and it stayed off until i put on the A/C on and then BAM!!! the Service light went on!!! so i went to the used car guy i got the car from and his mechanic is going to check all the vacuum connection(?) on monday (free)(P0441 code still showing) and also clean the screen under the intake, and check out the AC bearings. I don't mind paying 260.00 to get A/C work done later, and i also think the screen under the intake needs a cleaning because the car sounds to me like there is some block age up there somewhere ---even after the cat. converter was replaced along with the muffler. I will let you all know what happens next week. Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
Well I have alrady been dealing with customer service and they are saying it is a normal condition. I'm so pissed off!! i dealt with the senior rep at the cust service and she is claiming there is nothing wrong with the truck. So I tried to fitto get a extened War. She got so mad at me she hung up the phone on and will not deal with me. I did not buy a new truck for these issues. I used to work at GM dealership and there currently are 5 trucks with the problem and more arriving everyday. We all need to get together and do something. We need to either send a letter to the Star we need to make the public, so then GM might step up and help us with the problem!!!
I have a 2000 Jimmy 4X4, with 93k miles on it. It recently has started making a humming sound near the right front tire. I tried rotating the tires, but is made no difference. It starts at about 40 mph, and the pitch gets high as the speed increases. You only hear it when driving straight or on a left turn. It stops when you turn the wheel toward the right. I'm thinking wheel bearings or CV joint... any ideas or ways to tell for sure?
I have a spark plug socket with a hex shaped base... witht he wheel cranked to the left, you can get the socket on the plug, then use a boxed-end wrench to turn the socket... it sucks, but it is the best I've found so far.
That would be a bad front right wheel hub assembly (bearing)... Very common on these vehicles I know... I've replaced 2 left ones and 1 right one so far on my 1998 Blazer ZR2 with 160,000 miles. My brother's Sonoma's right one is getting bad too... These are easy to replace concidering you don't have to press in the bearing, you just have to unscrew the axle nut, unbolt the assembly with 3 bolts, disconnect the abs wheel speed sensor and that's it!! About $200 at the parts store and a 6-pack will get 'er done or you can spend over $600 at the dealer with labor... Your choice... :shades:
If someone could please help me... I have a "check engine light" MIL intermittently coming on and the scan tool (OTC Genisys) will not connect with the cpu... It used to work and get live data and stored codes, but now since the mil, it won't work... The scan tool does work with other vehicles. Someone told me It could be the EGR valve blowing a fuse, but what one??? I have checked all of them I think??? If anyone has some insight please let me know... My fuel economy is also crappy... about 10mpg when mil is illuminated and 14mpg when not... 1998 Blazer ZR2 w/ 160,000 mi...
i just bought a blazer 01 LT 4x4, started having the same problem as you two days ago, i put it in 4 hi and it was fine, then put it in auto 4x4, then tried to go back to 2 hi, and it got stuck and both lights were on the auto 4x4 and 2 hi lights, and of course the service 4x4 light was on, and i had a vibration in the front end when i turned, so i took it into the dealer, he took the terminal off for 15 seconds and put it back on and it reset itself, my dealer said their warranty doesnt cover the 4x4 system. and they didnt service that system before i bought the vehicle, so i bought the transfer case fluid from the gm dealership, and brought it to jiffy lube and had them change the fluid in the front diff and the trasfer case.....then right after that, like an idiot (didnt know til today i wasnt supposed to) i put it in 4 lo in the parking lot on dry pavement.....anyway, i tried to put it back into 2hi or 4hi and nothing happened either 4 hi or 2 hi started blinking and the 4 lo light illuminated back up, so i drove it down the road, dumb idea, but i did it and then parked in another parking lot shut off the engine and started it back up, then pressed the 4 hi button, it went into 4 hi, then pressed 2 hi and it went into 2 hi, so i started going home from there, pressed 4 hi again went in no problem, and 2 hi, no problem, havent tried 4 lo again, i figure i'll only use that if i cant get out of some hole or something, but i havent tried the auto 4x4 again, so i dont know if it'll mess up again......
I HAVE A 1995 GMC JIMMY WITH 82,000 MILES ON IT. ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT CAME ON AND STAYED ON FOR A COUPLE DAYS THEN WENT OFF. WHILE THE LIGHT WAS ON THE VEHICLE SEEMED TO LACK POWER AND MY GAS MILEAGE SUFFERED. THIS HAPPENED A COUPLE OTHER TIMES WITH THE SAME RESULT. ABOUT 3 WEEKS AGO THE LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN AND STAYED ON. ABOUT 2 WEEKS AGO WE WENT FOR A RIDE WHICH TOOK US UP A STEEP MOUNTAIN EXPRESSWAY AND AS WE NEARED THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN THE LIGHT WENT OFF AND STAYED OFF FOR 10 DAYS AND THE VEHICLE RAN FINE. THE LIGHT HAS COME BACK ON AND RECENTLY MY VEHICLE FAILED IT'S EMISSION INSPECTION. THE GARAGE IS GETTING A CODE OF P1133, O2 SENSOR, INSUFFICENT SWITCHING. MY MECHANIC CAN'T PINPOINT EXACTLY WHAT THAT MEANS. CAN ANYBODY HELP OR OFFER SOME SUGGESTIONS AS I CAN'T DRIVE IT UNTIL I FIX IT AND I'M GETTING TIRED OF BUMMING RIDES TO AND FROM WORK.
I have a 1995 Jimmy 4wd truck just died on me I ck the coil,fule pump, and replaced fule filter they cked out good got spk got fule but wont start it turns over but thats all any help out there that I can ck before I send it to shop
Hi my friend had me type up their question but for some reasin they had me put under Toyota but they have a blazer......Anyways we are both new to the site(he did introduce himself I think).... He has a 89 blazer and he is looking for a back window for in the tailgate...this is the second one he has broke so we are looking to find a cheap used one or new somewhere cheap.....he also had a question about modifing it too...does anyone know of another make and model where he can switch the tailgate for one or two of the swing out tailgates? Any help would be great!!!!!!!
An interesting problem developed over this weekend. I have a 1997 chevy blazer and this weekend, out of the blue, my wipers will not shut off. Have not had any issues ever with the wipers until now. There's approx. 78000 miles on the truck. Even with the switch in the off position, the wipers operate in the low, constant speed. There's no intermittent delay control, but I can turn them up to high speed. The mist/wash works still, but the wipers are on constantly. While driving this morning, they all of a sudden began to work normally for about 10 minutes, then resumed the uncontrolled, low speed constant wiping.
Comments
Did anyone have a reply for your question?
-Mike
My 95 Blazer just started to do the same thing. did you ever figure out what is wrong.
Thanks
Josh
The speedo + directional keeps going off, sometimes for days at a time? but
everything else is ok, gas/temp/oil/battery displays etc,How can i trace the fault,or do i have to replace/repair the whole dash ? If so, do any of you guys know anyone in the states where i can get a replacement, used parts dealers/breakers or repairers
etc.Thanks up front for any help
Mike
Mike
Took in to the dealer at 15,000 miles for pulsating brakes
Dealer said Rusty and dirty cleaned them up.
Brakes still pulsated but we figured it was due to Anti-Lock
Now 30,000 miles.
Brakes pulsating and squeaking on start up.
Took to repair shop.
Mechanic said we had to replace all four brakes and rotors.
Called dealer,
Dealer said probably weather related, not covered by warranty.
Told mechanic to replace the brakes.
This is what they told us.
Pads would not slide on caliper brackets.
The Sliders and caliper brackets were NEVER LUBED!
This caused, rusted rotors and warped rotors.
Repair shop gave me the old parts.
Question: At 15,000 miles we took it to dealer.
I wonder what the dealer told GM and or charged warranty service?
Could the dealer have charged GM and not done anything?
If so how can I find out?
I have a 98 Blazer and recently my engine started hesitating slightly. Initially it was just a slight hesitation, and could really only be felt at slow speeds or at a stop. Lately it's gotten worse, getting to the point where if feels like it could die. Have noticed it doesn't start hesitating until the engine warms up. Changed the fuel filter, no change. Today, after returning from a drive, popped the hood and looked around. Heard what sounded like a clicking sound coming from the area around the distributor cap (can't quite pinpoint source of sound). The clicking seems to preceed the hesitation, then stop as the hesitation ceases. I have no "check engine" light. Additionally, and not sure if this is relevant, I removed the are intake from the throttle body and the engine died. Probably normal, but not sure. Any thoughts?
Here's a link that may help you figure this thing out:
Link to page
Thx
Jim
Do a google search using "P0441", and/or "no flow during purge cycle" and you should come across some possible causes, or other people's experience with this fault code.
"Mine did the same thing. Caused a SES light for 1.5 years until I figured out the problem. More than likely, it's a bad evaporative emmissions vaccuum switch. It is located below the coil packs on the back side of the engine if you are standing in front of the car. There is a bracket that is held onto the same studs as the coil assembly, and the part you want is on the left hand side of that bracket. The purge solenoid, is on the right. You want the the switch, not the solenoid. Of course, check your vaccuum lines around there and make sure none are disconnected which would give you the same error, but chances are, it is that part. Cost me like 25 bucks at a parts distributor. Once you have checked all your connections to make sure you don't have a leak, or loose hose, try that part. You may also want to take the car to an Autozone or something and have them clear the codes for you. Otherwise, there are some certain criteria that have to be met before the computer will realize that the system is working properly with the new switch installed and the SES light won't go out right away. Let me know if it works for you."
O2 sensors. Vehicle still is running rich and is getting about 8 mile/gals
Check engine light stays on
Any suggestions would be appreciated
Just got back from a NYS inspection station and my 95 jimmy pasted
thanks
LJM
tidester, host
He has a 89 blazer and he is looking for a back window for in the tailgate...this is the second one he has broke so we are looking to find a cheap used one or new somewhere cheap.....he also had a question about modifing it too...does anyone know of another make and model where he can switch the tailgate for one or two of the swing out tailgates? Any help would be great!!!!!!!