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I got my Blazer 2 Dr/4wd(which I love for its size)2.5 years ago, used with 29K miles. Did not buy any warranty, figuring its not going to be a long-term investment anyway. That week, the alternator died. Ive been known to kill alternators before so I figured it was just my bad luck. :mad: Threatened dealer to tow me to their repair shop to have it replaced, as they promised me that the car was in top shape. Thank goodness I was only 3 blocks away from the dealer and their shop. Then I noticed a knocking type of sound coming from the passangers side, inside the dash somewhere. Its not a constant knock, just once in a while. I try to map some sort of similarities when it happens, but nothing so far. Its random. Any suggestions or ideas? And ofcourse, my fuel gauge is dancing, it goes from full to half and then stops working, except at half its not half because I run out of gas pretty quickly at that point. I also just figured that I use more than half the tank in 90 miles- roughly 10 highway miles a gallon and I am shocked. Last 4th of july, after the fireworks when I returned to my car, it was dead. Couldnt jump start it, had it towed and changed the battery and alternator. Again. My moms first trailblazer, brand new 2001 spent more time at the dealers repair shop than in the driveway. Nothing ever worked from the first day she brought it home, mostly electronic problems. She traded it in for a new trailblazer ( I begged her to get a european car, as the dealer mechanic shop is like my second home, between the blazer, trailblazer and avalanche we own... )The trade-in new trailblazer is a 2004, been to the shop 5 times last year. Oh and when we did the trade-in, the guy pushed back the miles on the old trailblazer, it had around 35K and he pushed the gauge back to around 28500, as the special incentive was a warranty for all used cars under 29K. Cheeky [non-permissible content removed]. But overall I am happy with my 99' blazer and at 60K, she hasn't cost me much in repairs, yet. I will trade her in before 75K for a nice VW or Volvo though, even if shes not worth a dime....
Thanks :sick:
Lifters swapped and all put back together. Also replaced the spark plugs and changed the oil and filter. Still making the same metal-to-metal tapping noise on the driver's side that varies in speed with engine RPM and does not go away when the engine warms up. More stethoscope probing pinpoints the sound to be the loudest and most distinct on the front of the engine (specifically about half-way up timing chain cover) and between the #1 and #3 cylinder exhaust manifold ports. Sound is significantly less prominent as you move toward the back of the engine and on the passenger side. Next move: pull the timing chain cover to see if the chain is slapping around. The only thing else I can figure is that it is the connecting rod or wrist pin of Cyl #1. Is it true you have to pull the oil pan to pull the timing chain cover?
God Bless,
Michael
Mine usually works fine when it has sat for several hours. The A/C light will come on just after cranking and work fine until I stop somewhere and turn of the engine.
When I come back after it has sat for typically less than an hour and more than 5 - 10 minutes, the A/C light will not turn on after cranking the engine. I press the A/C button and the light just blinks. Typically it takes from 1 minute to 5 minutes for the a/c to turn back and only when I am driving. Once it turns back ON, it works fine until I stop again. For the first time, last week, it turned off while I was stopped at a stop light about two blocks from my house.
When I got to my house, I quickly installed my A/C gages before the problem cleared. The high and low side pressure was only 70 to 80 psig. Suspecting a bad pressure switch, I jumpered the low pressure switch, nothing. I jumpered the high pressure switch, nothing. The only way I was able to get the a/c back on was to turn off the engine and disconnect and reconnect the battery cable. After that, I cranked the engine and the a/c started immediately.
The compressor is a fairly new rebuilt compressor. Since I am unsure of the computer inputs from the system, I wanted to make sure a problem with the compressor clutch resistance would not cause this problem. I disconnected the compressor clutch power cable and the clutch disengaged as it should and the A/C light stayed ON.
From this information, I would assume the gas pressures and the compressor clutch is not causing this problem. I now suspect a problem with the Computer Climate Control module or its temperature sensor since disconnecting the battery and reconnecting cleared the problem and the system worked fine. I just do not understand why it works when I first crank up in the morning and doesn't work when it has sat idle for less than an hour and more than 5 - 10 minutes.
Hotter ambient temperatures do seem to have some affect. This has happened only one time, but the A/C would not turn on immediately after leaving work about a week ago. It was very hot outside, about 95 deg, and hot inside as well. But as always, worked fine after driving about a couple of minutes and worked until I arrived home 45 minutes later.
You are the first one that appears to be having the same problem. Have you found the answer yet?
God Bless,
Michael
Sensor is up front of radiator in behind the grill 98up # 9152245 for approx $22. Its a thermistor and as the temp increases the resistance decreases. Light green wire w/strip from the display to sensor other side to ground. Temp won't update until 18mph and good reading after 36 mph for 2 minutes.
AC auto climate has an electric blend motor and the control head (switchs on dash) plus a pressure switch that is bad the core freezes and melts so temp swings. Go to a shop that has seen these systems or GM or the analyzes will cost a bunch for new guys to determine and they will have to go to the online manual for this system (been there done that). GM compressors always blow the seals around 80k too.
I do have a gurgling water noise from the passanger side behind dash every time I start driving the car (sometimes it continues while I am driving). Also, there is a lot of hot air coming from the vents that heat the legs, when the a/c and vent system is off.
m.
As to the "always hot air", if no leaks that could be related to the climate control (automatic only) and an electric blend motor up under the dash on the heater box that fails and searches for a position. If not automatic and it still happens rotate the dails around to clean the contacts (happens in moist climates).
Rotors can cause many problems with Blazer braking as they wear or warp. Many pads have anti squeal shims on the back that rot or rust off and others you have to use the permetex anti squeal spray or paste to coat rear side of pads (not side facing rotor). The slide pins may need to be greased also - common overlooked thing that does not allow the calipers to apply even pressure to both sides of rotors (more wear on one side occurs). Rear slides are very often never lubed due to design, and the rear calipers are cheap single piston units that I replace with rebuilts each brake job. If fact, you can buy "loaded" calipers that are a caliper, pads, bracket, and other parts and thats the best deal especially on rears.So, the bottom line is to really known you have to look at the whole system and mileage since last repair and moisture conditions also apply - lots can rust rotors and wash off lube and none drys out pads and often makes squealing occur. A good hard ABS type stop may clean them and seat the parts but only do this on a wide road, no one behind you , both hands on the wheel, no loose things to fly around, and stay out of ditches! Many drivers never ever try a panic stop and feel the ABS today.
As for the 2.8 if it overheated a few times hope water did not damage internals but you did change the head gaskets if you did the valves. The lifters may be noisey and the high mileage oil does help (with a good filter regularly changed) or a can of lifter quiet may clean any deposits on them off cause hope they are just dirty and not totally pumping up (hydralic) with oil pressure - don't know how much I'd keep pouring into that 86. I'm at 140k on one of my 98s and its book value is pretty low and 86 is like almost nothing. Good luck on it.
Has anyone experienced this....I'm assuming it is an ABS sensor that is malfunctioning.....are these easily replaced?
Thanks for your help.
95 has rear drums so assume its them locking, correct?
The sensor for the rears is in the transmission for 2wd and transfer case 4wd. The fronts each have a sensor. If no ABS light on dash illuminated then should not be control module. Look at those rears and replace the shoes, turn the drums, and probably time for wheel cylinders and a good flush/bleed of the system. About 90% of the braking is from the fronts so if not the rears go thru them too and look at the rotors for uneven wear and slides not moving. Is the pedal firm when stopped also?
It seems like they all lock up, but for sure the front do (vehicle noses down)...but as I said only at very low speed (less than 10mph) and only for one or two stops. When it locks up the pedal is rock hard and pulses (like normal ABS pulse).
I replaced the pads and rotors, made no difference. The ABS light is not on.
Thanks for your help
Probably a lifter sticking or pumping up. Check the coolant reservior and see if it is slowly dropping. Often this is the classic leaking lower intake manifold first sign as the Dex cool leaks into the valley on the lifters - you will never see it in the oil due to evap in there. If you are close to 100k thats it. If you are luckly just try some lifter quiet treatment and start using the high mileage oil with a good filter - it really helps. Check for oil cooler line leaks too - lines to radiator on drivers side. 4wd has 2 sets and 2wd 1 set. Finally, if the intake has been done check that the throttle cable is not pushing on the PCV and that makes a clicking too - often the cable holddown to the intake (plastic clip) breaks. Hope that helps.
God Bless,
Michael
What is the most common culprit in this situation? O2 sensors, ignition, etc. Otherwise it runs ok with adequate power, starting, etc.
Thanks a lot,
Sandi
Thanks