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Thanks matt
1. Is the coolant dropping - has the lower intake gasket been changed - most go by 80-100k and water gets in the valley area.
2. Last tuneup - cap,rotor, plugs, wires, feul and air filter by 100k.
3. EGR valve clogged or stuck - black 2"x3" cylimder mounted on front of engine - remove 2 bolts clean port.
4. Injection clogged up - run some good cleaner.
5. Sensors - MAF in intake dirty spray clean, or othres but a code usually shows.
Once the pump runs then you have to make sure it shuts off - after a minute feel/listen to the end of the intake hose and it should be shut off - another solenoid above the pump to open/close that - then did you open (pops apart) the plastic valve in the line by the pump in the large hose - has a diaphram that can clog/burn and that has to be good. Then are the check valves on the exhaust manifolds new and the L shaped little hoses (dealer for hoses but check valves at all auto stores) - most rust out before now and cause the code due to air leaks or staying open - easist way to change those is remove the 2 small bolts on the metal pipe to exhaust and take out of Blazer - the check valve is threaded and rusts to pipe so a vise is usually required. Pass side can be reached but easy way is remove air box on drivers side. Good luck.
matt
Thanks MATT
Thanks
Add: Also I have 4wd, the lower joint is just sitting there ready to be pulled out, just dont have enough room to get it out. It seems that I would have to remove the half shafts to get it out but nowhere have I read anywhere or in the manual that you have to remove them. It simply says to move the lower control arm over :mad:
If the bearings are throwing metal shavings its rebuild time but after most intake gasket work you will see a small amount of crap in the oil from the old gasket and the scraping they had to do. Again - I did not see the actual "shavings", did you? Most engines can be rebuilt unless the block or heads are cracked then its not cost effective. You can get a complete junk yard motor with all accessories on it often for a good price - 10 year old Blazer is not actually worth much, sorry.
I told one of the service reps to inspect the vehicle thoroughly before the extended warranty expires in this October.
Reminder: This is for a 98 Jimmy in which the A/C blows only blazing-hot air, despite the fact that the compressor is working fine. The vehicle also has automatic climate control (ability to select interior temperature).
My blend door, or "Actuator Temp Valve" in GM-speak, was stuck on the hot side, apparently. It's possible that the blend motor gears are stripped out, too, but it seems to be working now. Here's what I did:
1. Lower the glove box
2. Identify the blend motor (above and behind the upper vacuum actuator). It's a black, square assembly, about 3x2". The left end attaches to the heater box.
3. Start up your junkmobile. Turn on the heater blower so you'll know if this scientific procedure succeeds. Make sure the dash vents are on.
4. Push the A/C button to turn the A/C on. In the time that the blend motor would likely be sliding the door from one channel to the other, take a long, flat screwdriver or equivalent prying device, wedge it beneath the blend motor (it's open around its housing except for where it plugs into the heater box), and wiggle it gently.
If there's no immediate change, continue tapping and wiggling the blend motor while cycling the temperature knob and switching the A/C off and on.
Mine broke free immediately. I think the blend door was simply stuck. It would probably be wise to check for this before doing anything drastic and expensive, which, on a GM, is anything.
To see the part in question, and be in the company of others stricken by GM misery, look at this excellent blend motor thread:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t574779.html
Remember: Brute force first, then dealership.
Gotta Mechanic Comin'
I started the Beast about 2 weeks ago and I noticed that a bunch of things weren't alive, this is a list of things that are not working. The 4X4 switch, Door Locks, Gas Gauge, Odometer, Speedometer, Tachometer, dash lights, internal dome light, Under hood light, Radio, headlights (there may be a couple of other things also but that is the bulk of it).
These are the things that do work, the engine starts fine and runs fine, the AC works, the Temp / Direction thingy, Power Windows, Oil Pressure gauge, fuel pump, basically anything that keeps the engine running as well as a few of the accessories...
Fuses seem to be good however I haven't dug into the engine compartment fuse box thoroughly. It almost seems as though the items that are run of the "in vehicle" fuse box aren't working and others are...
The funny things is when I was testing stuff out I had a case where when I pulled back (as to turn my brights on) all the items that weren't working came back to life. After that I tested a couple of other things and I could get it all to come to life if I activated certain things such as the Brights switch, the dimmer switch (turn it all the way up), and if I turned the headlights on manually. This all worked for a bit but it no longer works so now all the stuff listed as not working will not come on regardless of what I do. There have been a couple of times where I pop the hood and the under hood light comes on but then it will go off shortly after... Any advice would be great! Thanks ahead of time!
Light switch in dash has the auto on feature for the headlights and the delay for the dome - they go bad. Wipers and beam selection is in the multifunction switch in the column and those can have a short so have them tested. Door locks - if it sat and was damp the switch in the drivers door get crap/corrision so depress many times and see if they work otherwise if the remote does not work also there is a remote module - and batteries in the remote too. May have to test in the door at the back of the switch.
Repairdog, you had sent me this answer awhile back and was wondering if you could give a little more help. How do I get to the sensor? Do I have to remove the grill? I have checked looking down the hood and can't find the sensor. Really would appreciate any help.
Regards,
Bob
In 1996 GM introduced the GM Passlock anti theft system.
The Passlock Anti-Theft system involves resistor codes which are generated by resistors located in the ignition key cylinder switch. 96-97 have a coded key and then the 98up use a Hall Effect Sensor in the key cylinder to send a resistor code to the Passlock module. The resistor code is activated when the ignition key is physically rotated in the ignition switch. Depending on the model of GM vehicle, the actual resistor code is only introduced to the Passlock system when the ignition switch is turned to the ignition on (run) position or only when the ignition switch is turned to the start (crank) position.