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Comments
Thanks :confuse:
Thanks, GM!
1)When turning right(wheel turned most of the way) you can hear a clunk when straitening the car out. It's been doing it for a while. Any ideas?
2)Driving down the road, I can hear a little "pseeet" or a loud click every few seconds, and when going up a hill it kind of hesitates. Any Ideas?
3)The driver seat no longer moves up and down, but instead clunks and don't move. Does the entire seat need to be replaced or what?
4) The back tailgate hatch doesn't open with the button on the rear. Is this a fix myself or a shop deal?
5) My grandPa is asking me for advice. Should he just dump this thing and get something else, or is it worth fixing? The misses loves it, so he'll need a reason to get rid of it if he does...
Thanks for any help!
2. Noise could be brakes worn down or see #1 and the hesitation could be many things - sensor, tuneup, etc.
3. Seat could have a cut wire (runs thru internally) or switch or motor bad.
4. Most don't so use the inside button.
5. Read all the posts on problems so find a good shop. I have 4 of the Blazers and all have the same problems and as you approach 80-100k they start to cost lots but I do most work. Look forward to new brakes and rotors, ball joints, CVs, alternator, lower intake gasket, fuel pump, etc and get the radiator and cooling system flushed with a thermostst and cap ASAP, as well as a trans filter and a ytransfer case fluid change soon (uses GM blue syn fluidin transfer). With good maintenance expect over 200k on motor.
1. breaks and rotors were just changed. he was thinking along the lines of the joints and such being worn.
2. it hesitates at the exact same time as the noise, if going up a hill and the engine's struggling. otherwise, its just another noise.
3. the outer button below the rear wind shield wiper is the one that doesnt work...
4. So it is worth keeping?
Should you keep it - that is a total owner call but you will have items failing so if you can't deal with that get something new with a 100k warranty. If you don't really need AWD dump it, if you do get all the diffs and case fluids changed!
My mechanic has exhausted his resources. He checked all codes, replaced the fuel pump, scanned all the basic electrical components (coil, plugs, cap, rotor, etc) and has narrowed it down to two items: the fuel injectors or the computer. He won't go any further because to him it's a fifty fifty gamble, and like the fuel pump, he doesn't want to do all that work and be wrong about it.
It was suggested that I take it to the dealership, but I'd rather go to the dentist and skip the anesthetic. Let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Joshua
Does he check fuel pressure in the injection rail after the engine dies? One must never presume that replacing an item eliminates that item as defective. Also there is a fuel pressure regulator in addition to the pump.
The computer is always a possibility but it's rare.
Hub would grate and withe it jacked up you will hear and feel a bad one. Ball joints maybe shot and really loose.
Only thing left would be the coil springs and the mounts so look at them when doing the rest and the shocks run inside them on your 2wd.
So maybe after the car dies he should check injector pulse with a NOID light.
At low speeds there is a loud squeak coming from under the vehicle, towards the rear. As the truck speeds up, the squeak also speeds up to begin sounding like a rattle. This occurs intermittently and only does it under acceleration. If the truck is making the noise and I shift into nuetral, the noise immediatly stops. Also, approx half the time that I shift from park into drive, there is a clunk.
I have climbed under the truck und tried to turn the driveshaft both ways. It does not budge. There are no clunks when coasting then accelerating, which I would suspect eliminates the U joints. When I jack the truck up and turn the rear wheel (driver side),with the truck in nuetral, there seems like there is play in the rear diff and a clunk when the driveshaft begins to rotate. This does not appear to happen with the passenger side.
There is approx 90k kms or approx 55k miles on the truck. It is not used for off roading, but tows a utility trailer quite often. Only maintanence other then oil changes is both front hubs (bearing howl) and plugs,wires, pcv, ect.
I have no experience with rear diffs, but I am suspecting that there may be a gear backslip for the driver side axel.
Is this possible? Does any one have some good photos and procedures? Is a store bought paper gasket required or can you use a silicone gasket maker? Any other ideas on what the problem could be?
Much Appreciated,
Thank you.
All GMs rear ends are sloppy and the pass side is worst than the drivers. They have a C clip that hold the axles in at the center of the diff. The rear cover can be removed for full cleaning/dumping of the gear oil and they sell a gasket or you can uese the form a gasket - or the oil can be sucked out and refilled till it runs out that pass side diff plug located alittle over half way up the diff. 80w-90 or 75w90 gear oil. Many GMs also get that clunk as the ring and pinion wear so if in doubt most transmission or 4wd shops can check the play and reshim as necessary. The front output has a crush sleeve on it. Finally check the u-joint in many positions.
What is it and is this something I can fix or is this a shop only fix???
Please help . . .
Replaced the MAFS ($115.00) and it runs great now.
I can hear the relays engaging and the lights flicker but am not getting voltage to the encoder motor when 4hi or 4lo is pressed.I can disconnect the harness from the encoder and apply voltage to activate the encoder and shift into 4hi. The 4hi light is then lit but will not shift out of 4hi to 2hi without "hotwiring" the encoder.Did not try 4lo.
Tried replacing the TCCM but same problem.
The harness from the TCCM to the encoder checks out OK with an OHM meter.
Not sure what to do next. Anyone have an idea?
Try Changing the Ignition coil.
The only thing is I havent been able to get the 4x4 worked on yet.
One question I have is, I dnt have a clue if this has ever been done , but, at this mileage, would a transmission fluid and filter change, be good or bad for it? I've heard the horror stories about getting this done on a GM after 100,000 for the first time. And the thing burn up.
Oh,is case you forgot, I have a 2000 blazer LS 4x4
i know it sounds simple and if it is what the problem is youll kick yourself for not trying it
but look in fuce box i think if its the same as the 97 it will be number 19 and its a 20 fuse yellow
replace it and see if that helps
no problems
i have 143k now
So GM uses 2 fuses for the system, one for the CPU at the fuse pannel to the side of the dash and one for the electric motor under the hood.