Did you go looking for a used car and find that prices were so high that it made more sense to buy a new car instead? Or found that your trade-in was worth a lot more than you expected?
If so, a reporter wants to interview you. Please email pr@edmunds.com no later than 3pm Eastern on Thursday, May 5, 2011 and include your daytime contact information.
In the past I've checked out both Jaguar and BMW CPO cars. Both dealers told me that the cars have to have a clean carfax to be certified, and, that they would present me with a copy of the carfax report on any car I was interested in. I ended up buying a CPO Jag, and, as soon as I got back from my test drive, the salesman presented me with the report before we entered into negotiations. Most manufacturers list the details of their CPO program on their websites. I have seen dealers here list cars as CPO - but, they weren't true "factory -backed" CPO cars. They were simply cars that carried an aftermarket extended warranty that wasn't nearly as good as a authentic CPO vehicle. I believe this website has an overall comparison of everbody's factory CPO programs as well.
The car has to have a clean title history, Carfax accident reports are nonsense. I say that with a grain of salt, they devalue a car, but there's still lots of cars out there with previous structural damage and clean Carfax reports, meanwhile a scuffed bumper can cause a Carfax report to show an accident.
Before CarSpace went down I had pics up of a BMW burnt to a rusty shell that had a clean Carfax.....
So does anyone have a link as to just how much information Carfax is able to collect? I mean how do they get their information, and is it the same from state-to-state? Given that it seems every computer database has significant problems - take for example the recent reports that 1 in 9 $ going to unemployment shouldn't have, I don't think I have much faith in carfax. Thomas (Tom) Kernich
Carfax gets most of their information from police reports, rarely insurance claims. Also, from some body shops.
Basically they do a really good job of advertising a relatively useful product, and do a great job of insinuating that unless the dealer you're talking to uses their reports that they are less than reputable.
They make their money by charging dealers $1000s per month to sign up for unlimited reports.
As for me? I've seen way too many cars at the auction with structural damage announcements and clean carfax reports to put much faith in their service. Plus, IMO, their marketing scheme is of questionable ethics.
The one service that's a LOT more accurate in my experience is AutoCheck.
.....And is any one else a little sick and tired of the whole " Certified" crap? Dealerships offering that term, coupled with a newer inspection sticker slapped on, as a selling point? I've had vehicles that were supposedly certified and inspected that needed hundreds of dollars of work done by the next inspection- usually brakes and rotors, tie rods, etc. When I asked someone who worked for a dealership, he said if the brakes have on just enough tread to pass inspection, they pass it. If anything else passes, even at the bare minumum, it has technically passed inspection, and therefore, certified that it was looked at. Certified does not mean they've replaced things like timing belts, serpentine belts, water pumps, had coolant system flushes and anything else -even if they're waaayyy overdue- if they ain't broke, if they have just enough brake pad tread to last for 30 days after you've bought it- that's all they care about. Wonder why no hotshot lawyer has taken up a class action lawsuit against this practice? Always ask for a record of maintenance. If it was a trade from someone who did not keep clear records, then it should be the dealer's obligation to REPLACE maintenance items, not just deceive people into thinking the vehicle has been properly maintained. If not, be honest and sell it " AS IS".
if a car is manufactured after the month of aug is it to be sold as the following years model ie; aug 2011 sold as a 2012 model. I bought a Chevy Van that was advertised and sold as 2012 but when pink slip came in the mail it shows that its a 2011.
if a car is manufactured after the month of aug is it to be sold as the following years model ie; aug 2011 sold as a 2012 model.
No. The model year is what the manufacturer says it is based on some parameters. What does the Monroney sticker say - the window sticker from the vehicle?
If it's 2012, then there is an issue on the title and you need to get it fixed.
That was an over generalization, that I have found to be not true. Each of the last 4 CPO vehicles my wife and I have bought came with detailed inspection sheets where the brakes were all individually measured and the replacement parameters were clearly specified including the the tire tread depth, etc.
I can't speak as to over due cooling flush requirements since all these were less than 2 years old (a couple were less than 1 year old, so that was was not required service. The last 3 even had new tires installed, that's always a plus with the cost of those W rated 18" 50 series tires being what they are.
But everything else was reviewed, and you can be sure I looked at them. I also looked at the engine oil, to be sure it was just changed, etc. There was a scuff on the wheel of the last one, that they polished out for me when i brought it to their attention (no painted or clear coated wheels for me, chrome or machine polished only!)
Of course these were all Cadillac CPO vehicles, and that might have had something to do with it. I've had no after sales service issues with any of them either, and the last 3 were not even bought at my local dealer. I had to hunt the cars down. I always looked there first, but i had specific requirements, that their "used car factory" couldn't produce.
I'm pretty much off new cars now with the CPO programs being what they are (at least for Cadillac).
I wish i could get the wife to consider one of these for her next ride but she's intent on always buying brand new. From your experiences and others I know, they've also gotten great vehicles that look and perform like new with a great factory warranty for a nice discount. Sure, there are certain vehicles that new does make sense but for the pricier, nicer ones, this is a great way to go to get a better more lux vehicle for almost new. Hearing your experiences just makes me want to go that route next time out for me...I've always been an economy car driver but next time, I'm thinking a bit more upscale vehicle would be a nice change since it just possibly will be my last. Am torn though over this and am back and forth depending on the day I guess. Luckily I won't be in the market until 2016 or so...I have plenty of time here and am hoping by then that there is a much better selection of vehicles in the 180" and smaller vehicles as I don't want a big vehicle at all...even a mid sizer is a bit too large for me. And it'll have to have a power seat due to my spinal issues which is why an entry lux brand will probably be the choice I settle on. I deserve something a bit nicer now that I'm a bit older and the kids are almost all gone totally! I deserve it!!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Sandman, good luck in your search in a couple years. Who know what manufacturer offerings will be out there..
High end US makes have suffered big drops recently in their first 2 years, so getting a new one makes no sense to me. The only downfall is you can't "order" a used car. I tried, but the the used car factory was all out of silver STSs with V8 and grey leather interiors. :P
I didn't always buy CPO luxury cars. I've had my share of cavaliers, tempos and even contours over the years, but the high end makers have things better integrated. Cadillac now has an ATS (some of my body on frame jokesters say this means always too small")
The more I read about this vehicle, the more I like it! The few I've sat in have had great seats and it's the perfect sized vehicle. Sure underneath it's a Chevy Cruze, but it's so much more...great job GM!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
In Edmunds performance testing, the Verano accelerated from zero to 60 mph in 9.0 seconds, which is slow for cars in this class.
Now the turbo charged model, heck yeah! But then, the turbo is only available in the top trim level, with an MSRP of over $29k.
Certified pre-owned models don't make a lot of sense in the current car market. Any late model used vehicle is insanely expensive. Qbrozen made a comment the other day that the Mustang GT he just recently purchased would sell at auction for more than he spent buying it brand new.
I disagree. It does depend on the car somewhat, but the makes with good CPO factory warranty extensions (luxury makes) remain very good CPO buys.
Would you rather pay $76,000 for a new XYZmobile or $35,000 for a 2 year old CPO that still has 48 months and 90,000 miles on the factory / CPO warranty?????
Depending on the make, I know to. Just hope the previous owner broke it in right and did the proper maintenance. I'd definitely trust a Buick cpo'd model and the more I see the vehicle, the more I like it!
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I will have to concede your point here, at least in regards to a Cadillac or similar expensive luxury car. A 3 year old CPO Cadillac is going to be a much better buy than a new one. I was thinking of more main stream cars, Chevy, Honda, Toyota.
Hi guys, i have moved in the Usa few years ago and when i arrived here i bought a BMW 328,2008, now it has 130k miles and i tried to sell it. Most of the interested customers asked if this car is certified and is it under warranty? So i don't know what to do, how to make my car certified and under warranty? Any help?!
It is 130k miles. The answer is NO. Even if it was BMW certified at some point, it would have expired long ago. I don't know of ANY manufacturer that covers certified cars past 100k.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
a BMW dealer could certainly perform a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) for a fee and give you a printout that you could present to any potential buyers. Personally, I leave that up to the buyer to do. If someone I was buying from had it done, I might be suspicious that they have a friend at that particular dealership and its not on the up and up.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
That's a good point. So to have in mind, i can just recommend that option to buyers in order to improve the value of my car. And can you give me some tips in order to gain the value of my car?
Yes, I usually strongly recommend to buyers they have a PPI done. I don't want to misrepresent the car in any way.
On your end? To get the most for your car, it needs to be the best it can be. Detail the hell out of it, make sure everything works, and it has ZERO needs. A buyer will pay more if they think they can drive the car immediately without having to put any extra money into it.
And if you want to increase your exposure, take at least 2 dozen high-res photos right after detailing and make a nice ad online with craigslist, enthusiast websites, and ebay local classifieds.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have been thinking of buying pre-owned certified vehicle directly from a dealer (=factory warranty, not 3rd party extended warranty). My price range is around $14,000-17,000 for a sedan, preferably with a low gas consumption. The only thing I am afraid of is getting a CPO car and then realizing that their great-looking-on paper warranty coverage in reality has many exclusions, and I will have to pay for many repairs myself.
I found out that Volvo received Best Premium CPO Program Award from IntelliChoice while Hyundai got Best Popular CPO Program Award for 2013. Volvo presence is very limited in our area so we have very few CPO cars available (besides, there is only one low priced model they have -C30); Hyundai I will look into, but I would like to have more options. I honestly do not understand why Hyundai was rated as having best CPO warranty when it seems like a lot of other car makers have the same type of warranty (according to Certified Pre-Owned Program Guide from cars.com website which compares "similarities and differences among 38 manufacturer Certified Pre-Owned programs")
Do you personally have any experience with buying CPO cars? What brand would you recommend/not recommend and why? Thank you for your input!
Wanted to know what you guys thought about this deal. I'm looking to contribute in way I can. So will start off with my question: I am looking to buy a CPO 2012 BMW 328i Convertible it has 8710 miles on it and clean CarFax report with only one owner.
It has the following options:
Premium package
Navigation with voice
Harman Kardon Music system
dynamic Cruise Control,
BMW Assist with Bluetooth
BMW Teleservices
iPod and USP adapter
Automatic Climate Control
Voice Command
Real Time Traffic Information
Run-Flat tires.
Dark Burl Walnut Wood Trim
The car is only sale for $36,888 with final walk-out price of $40,440. I like the features and the mileage and kind off really want this car. There is 2 years of manufacturer's warranty left and 2 additional years of CPO warranty. So the car will be under warranty till 2018. Is there room for negotiation on the price? I checked Edmunds TMV, Truecar, KBB it says the car is valued at 41K before tax, title, fees - with this configuration and mileage. It probably sounds too good to be true at the moment. This is in Florida. Please let me know if you guys think this is a good deal and if I can negotiate to bring the price down.
Also for got to mention that the car has some minor scratches on the from right bumper that are visible. There are about 5-8 small scruffs and the salesman agreed that the car was ruffled a bit. There is no dent at all.
Walk out price he gave me - and this is before I made any counter offer and walked out, still waiting to receive the CPO Inspection Sheet. : Price: $36888, total Fee: $1222.45 (this includes dealership fees of $699, Tax: 2311.01 = $40421.46.
Are we certain this is a real CPO car? I presume this is a BMW dealer? Some dealers will tell you they'll "certify" the car if you buy it, and then slap on a 3rd party extended warranty. There should be a CPO sticker on the car that tells you who is backing the warranty and who is issuing the CPO.
Also, don't assume that you're getting an extension of the full factory warranty, even if it is genuine CPO from BMW. You are probably getting a full factory powertrain warranty but a limited extended warranty on everything else. Worth checking!
Yes. I made sure this is a real CPO, and it is a BMW dealer. The CPO is done by BMW and the remaining new-car warranty is about 2 years. I am waiting for them to send in the CPO Inspection Sheet as they just completed the Certification yesterday. BMW on their website has the inspection sheet which I plan to compare it with.
When you say limited extended warranty do you mean the warranty that comes with the car after being certified -2 years in this case. I checked BMW's website and they have a linkto a pdf that tell us what is not covered in the CPO for cars retailed after Jan 1 2014. Are you referring to that?
Yes--often people mistake the 2 extra years as 2 years of FULL warranty, but that's not often the case. It could just be powertrain, or powertrain + limited. CPO doesn't always translate into "trouble free"--just because they check 200 things doesn't mean they replaced 200 things. Those are still 200 parts with mileage on them.
Got it!! I will make sure I check these things in detail. Do you have any inputs on the price here? I am also thinking of getting a PPI done from an independent shop.
It's been mentioned in here before, but even with a CPO car, it's not that expensive to have an independent mechanic go over the "used" car. With a BMW, lots of owners prefer to use their own indy mechanic after warranty so a "PPI" (pre-purchase inspection) would be a good excuse to track one down if you don't have a shop in mind.
yeah a PPI is always good, to get it on a lift and check for collision damage, etc (carfax doesn't catch everything) and perhaps to anticipate future repairs.
There is a 2014 kia optima with less than 10k miles at a local audi dealership. It is used however not certified. I asked the sales guy why it wasnt certified, and he told me that the car can only be certified by a kia dealership. The group that owns the audi dealership also owns a kia dealership across the road. The car is listed under blue book value. I was wondering why they couldnt transfer it to the kia dealership and certify it and sell it for more. I checked out the car and didnt find anything too wrong with. But then i am not a pro at these things. Also the car used to be owned by the sales manager at the groups VW dealership who traded that in for a new audi. Carfax seems clean. Is the sales guy telling the truth that they cannot transfer the car back to the kia and certify it?
Seems legit. They'd have to sell the car to the other dealership most likely. You could always have an independent body shop look over the car for a small fee if you are concerned about prior collision damage.
Seems legit. They'd have to sell the car to the other dealership most likely. You could always have an independent body shop look over the car for a small fee if you are concerned about prior collision damage.
Thank you for the reply. The car also has been up for sale for over two months which is also concerning considering its priced well.
What is the difference between a used with remaining factory warranty and a cpo. Is it just the 10 year power train warranty. I mean the remainder of the factory warranty should transfer to the new owner right?
I think buyers also need to adjust their expectations about the advantages of a CPO---they are still used cars, after all, and I'm not so sure that the risk level for having trouble with the car is so dramatically lowered by CPO status.
Comments
And you call yourself a farmer.....
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
If so, a reporter wants to interview you. Please email pr@edmunds.com no later than 3pm Eastern on Thursday, May 5, 2011 and include your daytime contact information.
If they would , what is the point of the program? How worried should I be when buying through a certified program?
Regards:
Oldbearcat
The car has to have a clean title history, Carfax accident reports are nonsense. I say that with a grain of salt, they devalue a car, but there's still lots of cars out there with previous structural damage and clean Carfax reports, meanwhile a scuffed bumper can cause a Carfax report to show an accident.
Before CarSpace went down I had pics up of a BMW burnt to a rusty shell that had a clean Carfax.....
Basically they do a really good job of advertising a relatively useful product, and do a great job of insinuating that unless the dealer you're talking to uses their reports that they are less than reputable.
They make their money by charging dealers $1000s per month to sign up for unlimited reports.
As for me? I've seen way too many cars at the auction with structural damage announcements and clean carfax reports to put much faith in their service. Plus, IMO, their marketing scheme is of questionable ethics.
The one service that's a LOT more accurate in my experience is AutoCheck.
No. The model year is what the manufacturer says it is based on some parameters. What does the Monroney sticker say - the window sticker from the vehicle?
If it's 2012, then there is an issue on the title and you need to get it fixed.
I can't speak as to over due cooling flush requirements since all these were less than 2 years old (a couple were less than 1 year old, so that was was not required service. The last 3 even had new tires installed, that's always a plus with the cost of those W rated 18" 50 series tires being what they are.
But everything else was reviewed, and you can be sure I looked at them. I also looked at the engine oil, to be sure it was just changed, etc. There was a scuff on the wheel of the last one, that they polished out for me when i brought it to their attention (no painted or clear coated wheels for me, chrome or machine polished only!)
Of course these were all Cadillac CPO vehicles, and that might have had something to do with it. I've had no after sales service issues with any of them either, and the last 3 were not even bought at my local dealer. I had to hunt the cars down. I always looked there first, but i had specific requirements, that their "used car factory" couldn't produce.
I'm pretty much off new cars now with the CPO programs being what they are (at least for Cadillac).
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
High end US makes have suffered big drops recently in their first 2 years, so getting a new one makes no sense to me. The only downfall is you can't "order" a used car. I tried, but the the used car factory was all out of silver STSs with V8 and grey leather interiors. :P
I didn't always buy CPO luxury cars. I've had my share of cavaliers, tempos and even contours over the years, but the high end makers have things better integrated. Cadillac now has an ATS (some of my body on frame jokesters say this means always too small")
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
In Edmunds performance testing, the Verano accelerated from zero to 60 mph in 9.0 seconds, which is slow for cars in this class.
Now the turbo charged model, heck yeah! But then, the turbo is only available in the top trim level, with an MSRP of over $29k.
Certified pre-owned models don't make a lot of sense in the current car market. Any late model used vehicle is insanely expensive. Qbrozen made a comment the other day that the Mustang GT he just recently purchased would sell at auction for more than he spent buying it brand new.
Would you rather pay $76,000 for a new XYZmobile or $35,000 for a 2 year old CPO that still has 48 months and 90,000 miles on the factory / CPO warranty?????
I know what I'm buying.
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
So to have in mind, i can just recommend that option to buyers in order to improve the value of my car.
And can you give me some tips in order to gain the value of my car?
Thanks
On your end? To get the most for your car, it needs to be the best it can be. Detail the hell out of it, make sure everything works, and it has ZERO needs. A buyer will pay more if they think they can drive the car immediately without having to put any extra money into it.
And if you want to increase your exposure, take at least 2 dozen high-res photos right after detailing and make a nice ad online with craigslist, enthusiast websites, and ebay local classifieds.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I found out that Volvo received Best Premium CPO Program Award from IntelliChoice while Hyundai got Best Popular CPO Program Award for 2013. Volvo presence is very limited in our area so we have very few CPO cars available (besides, there is only one low priced model they have -C30); Hyundai I will look into, but I would like to have more options. I honestly do not understand why Hyundai was rated as having best CPO warranty when it seems like a lot of other car makers have the same type of warranty (according to Certified Pre-Owned Program Guide from cars.com website which compares "similarities and differences among 38 manufacturer Certified Pre-Owned programs")
Do you personally have any experience with buying CPO cars? What brand would you recommend/not recommend and why? Thank you for your input!
Hi-
Wanted to know what you guys thought about this deal. I'm looking to contribute in way I can. So will start off with my question: I am looking to buy a CPO 2012 BMW 328i Convertible it has 8710 miles on it and clean CarFax report with only one owner.
It has the following options:
The car is only sale for $36,888 with final walk-out price of $40,440. I like the features and the mileage and kind off really want this car. There is 2 years of manufacturer's warranty left and 2 additional years of CPO warranty. So the car will be under warranty till 2018. Is there room for negotiation on the price? I checked Edmunds TMV, Truecar, KBB it says the car is valued at 41K before tax, title, fees - with this configuration and mileage. It probably sounds too good to be true at the moment. This is in Florida. Please let me know if you guys think this is a good deal and if I can negotiate to bring the price down.
Also for got to mention that the car has some minor scratches on the from right bumper that are visible. There are about 5-8 small scruffs and the salesman agreed that the car was ruffled a bit. There is no dent at all.
Walk out price he gave me - and this is before I made any counter offer and walked out, still waiting to receive the CPO Inspection Sheet. : Price: $36888, total Fee: $1222.45 (this includes dealership fees of $699, Tax: 2311.01 = $40421.46.
thanks
T
Are we certain this is a real CPO car? I presume this is a BMW dealer? Some dealers will tell you they'll "certify" the car if you buy it, and then slap on a 3rd party extended warranty. There should be a CPO sticker on the car that tells you who is backing the warranty and who is issuing the CPO.
Also, don't assume that you're getting an extension of the full factory warranty, even if it is genuine CPO from BMW. You are probably getting a full factory powertrain warranty but a limited extended warranty on everything else. Worth checking!
Yes. I made sure this is a real CPO, and it is a BMW dealer. The CPO is done by BMW and the remaining new-car warranty is about 2 years. I am waiting for them to send in the CPO Inspection Sheet as they just completed the Certification yesterday. BMW on their website has the inspection sheet which I plan to compare it with.
When you say limited extended warranty do you mean the warranty that comes with the car after being certified -2 years in this case. I checked BMW's website and they have a linkto a pdf that tell us what is not covered in the CPO for cars retailed after Jan 1 2014. Are you referring to that?
Yes--often people mistake the 2 extra years as 2 years of FULL warranty, but that's not often the case. It could just be powertrain, or powertrain + limited. CPO doesn't always translate into "trouble free"--just because they check 200 things doesn't mean they replaced 200 things. Those are still 200 parts with mileage on them.
Got it!! I will make sure I check these things in detail. Do you have any inputs on the price here? I am also thinking of getting a PPI done from an independent shop.
It's been mentioned in here before, but even with a CPO car, it's not that expensive to have an independent mechanic go over the "used" car. With a BMW, lots of owners prefer to use their own indy mechanic after warranty so a "PPI" (pre-purchase inspection) would be a good excuse to track one down if you don't have a shop in mind.
yeah a PPI is always good, to get it on a lift and check for collision damage, etc (carfax doesn't catch everything) and perhaps to anticipate future repairs.
With a CPO car, in addition to a (sometimes?) longer warranty, you may get roadside assistance or free loaner cars when yours in the shop.
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I just looked. This topic dates back to 1998. I didn't think there was anything on the boards here that dates back that far!
Wow...hard to believe I started here almost 20 years ago!
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
too old to certify!
Too bad we can't turn back our age odometers.
" Doctor, can I get clocked?"