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Comments
It comes with it's own key fob that also locks the doors etc. Anyone ever try this out?
On the lighter side I just added a nice kenwood stereo and replaced the old speakers four good
ones, woo hoo. Also added a nice front brushbar
and some of those PIAA lights with a dual relay switch to go with either fog or just extra light
( it's actually alot of extra light ). I've read the posts on using a better set of tires but i'm not quite used up my stock Goodyears with only 20K. Looks like the group really likes the Michelans.
I'm considering an '01 Cherokee Sport. Has 23K miles, which is good...which makes me suspicious, naturally! Anyway, I've never bought a used vehicle from a dealership and I'm wondering how it works if I want to have it inspected by my mechanic before I buy. Do I have that option in this case, or do I get the 30-day warranty and deal with a lemon after the fact? No one I know has the answer! Help! Thanks for your advice.
Steve, Host
Your Buying Used tips was already in my files--was very helpful.
I'm guessing you already found our True Market Value appraisal tools too?
Good luck!
Steve, Host
Thanks again for your quick response and help.
1. Anyone know why this is?
2. Does this apply to differentials as well?
I was considering using Red Line gear oil in my differentials, and I was wondering if there was any reason not to. TIA.
The rear differential on mine came equipped with synthetic fluid as a part of the tow package so synthetic is apparently considered superior to standard fluid for high-load situations.
My opinion on slotted/drilled rotors is they're not an advantage unless you're racing the thing or possibly towing loads without proper trailer brakes. During normal and occassional high-speed braking conventional rotors aren't going to heat-up enough to cause problems. In some instances, the superior cooling of the slotted/drilled rotors is a disadvantage because you need a certain level of friction/heat for them to work at their maximum level. If they don't heat up quick enough, the stopping distances are actually longer. I would spend my money on a high-quality conventional rotor if you're just doing normal driving. That was my plan but the free set of rotors the dealer gave me around 20k miles is working fine at 65k miles.
He also said to avoid slotted rotors on the Cherokee because, with the rotor design Jeep uses, they will tend to warp a little sooner than other designs under normal use. Slotted rotors can't be turned, so you would have to replace the rotor every time it warped. The down side to this is the Mopar rotors are $78 each. That is the same price I was going to pay for the slotted rotors from Performance Products.
I was interested in knowing if anyone has replaced the four factory speakers [in the doors and roof] with good after market ones, and if that improved the units performance. Would it be a waste to upgrade the speakers and not the in-dash receiver? I think I can install the speakers myself, but if I need to replace the receiver that's beyond my limited skills. By the way, I can get four good Alpine speakers to replace the factory ones for about $190. Supposedly, the new speakers are the same size as the factory ones and install without a hassle.
Any suggestions? Thanks
If you can take door panels apart and replace speakers, you most certainly can replace the factory receiver.
Pioneer makes an exact fit for the Jeep (DEH-XXXX, xxxx being model numbers i don't remember, check cruthfield.com). I put one of these in and it's very easy. They make a wiring harness adapter and all you do is match the colors on the pioneer harness to the adapter harness. Once the harnesses are wired up, go out to the Jeep. The dash panel pulls off, two bolts hold the factory stereo in. Once removed, plug your wiring harness into the factory stereo harness, slide the new unit in, bolt it in, and throw the dash panel back on. Speakers are more diffucult IMHO because the door panels are a pain to remove.
I replaced my entire system right after buying it. Probably took two hours (speakers and receiver) and I was taking my time. I recently pulled the same type of Pioneer receiver out of my truck because I was trading it in. Took about five minutes to slap the factory receiver back in. I left the speakers, no sense recycling them:) I was going to sell that unit I took out of my truck because my new truck came with the infinity system that sounds pretty decent. Let me know if your interested. I was just going to throw it on ebay but I can probably make you a good deal. You might have to buy a new harness because I'm not sure if the '01 Dodge Ram 2500 harness is the same as the '01 Jeep. Something to look into. If it'll fit I'll throw the harness in too and you'll literally be "plug-and-play"!
Thanks again!
Sebring95: I did talk to Crutchfield and they told me the stock unit delivers 3-5 watts per channel. The receivers listed on Crutchfields site all have 20+ watts and above - I think that will suffice.
One thing I have noticed: A friend told me that my setup is called a "double din". I have no idea what this means. What I do know is that Crutchfields has only "din and 1/2" which equates to 3" or so. The stock unit is much larger than 3", so I fail to see how I can just swap one for the other.
As you can see, my knowledge is pretty limited on the subject.
If you put in the specs for you vehicle on crutchfieds website, you'll get a page where you can click on "In-Dash Receivers", then pick "cd,mp3,dvd receivers", then pick 3rd option down "GM/Chrysler-sized receivers". They show four models, two of which are cd/cassette combos. The audiovox only has 10watts per channel. Jensen CMK7015K is the only choice I would consider. The one I have is similar to the Pioneer DEH-P47DH. There may be some others out there that crutchfield doesn't carry, but they're a good source of info regardless.
The receiver parts are no different (size wise) on the infinity or non-infinity. It's just a matter of options, speakers, amplifier, etc. I normally don't buy the infinity system. For the '01 Cherokee it was only available on the limited anyway. My '01 Ram I bought the plain stereo and upgraded everything myself as well. For my '03 Ram it was included with the SLT Laramie package. I added steering wheel controls and aftermarket DVD and it sounds very nice.
If I read you correctly, this means I can just swap one of these for the factory unit and there will be no gap or additional piece that I would need.
Does the plastic molding around the stereo pop off? Once it's off, is it easy access to remove the unit?
Thanks again everyone. Hi boggse - how did the trip go over the holidays in the snow?
I am looking forward to the upgrade and appreciate the help.
If it sounds like someone shaking a plastic cup with a marble in it, that's the transaxle shift lever. Give the lever a tug and if it stops, you've got it figured out.
I bought it Crutchfield.I think the model I bought gives ya lots more bang for the buck. cd /cdrw plus mp's. Fwip if you would like to see how it looks installed I can try and post a pic. if you like.
Just wondering if anyone tried a K&N air filter on there Jeep? If so how did it work out?
If you refresh the page before going on to another page in Town Hall, your post will get "re-posted." I thought this bug had been swatted, but I guess not.
While waiting for responses in here, you may want to browse the K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? discussion.
Steve, Host
According to Crutchfield, there are only two units that's labeled "din and a half" for the Jeep space in the dash. One is by Audiovox [this would not be my first choice as it's a bit down on power - 10 watts RMS] and a Jensen [21 watte RMS] that looks promising.
It seems my options are pretty limited if I stick to a din and a half cassette/CD unit. One option would be to go to a regular din as you did - that may provide a few more choices.
I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any. Thanks
There is a FIPK kit that will make a big difference but it was about $400 cdn last I checked. A Cheaper solution can be found at http://www.rustysoffroad.com/ under Performance.
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to give the FIPK A try. I Will let you know how it works out.
fvp,
I would at least look at some regular sized units ( din) I still think you'll get more bang for the buck. As far as a cassette, you can down load all your Fav. tunes from the web.Then slap those on a cd/rw.
Then make sure your new raido is MP compatible.
You should be able to fit around 100 files (or more)(mp-3) on a cd/rw.. Now you wont even need a cd changer with that kind of storage..
Good luck with what ever you decide on..
Your suggestion on downloading music via the internet is a good one. I have a couple CD's that a friend of mine made that way and you can't tell the difference.
I'll let you know how it goes - thanks again.
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1998/jeep/cherokee/10501/options.html- ?tid=edmunds.u.prices.utmv.vdpprice.13.Jeep*
If all you are concerned about is mechanical reliability, 75k miles is not a problem. If you want all the gadgets to keep working, you will probably have to invest some money from time to time. I recently got rid of my 98 Classic because I wanted a sports car (miata), and I was averaging about $200 per month on unscheduled repairs to keep the heavily optioned vehicle 100% operational. I probably could have let most of the problems slide without effecting how the vehicle ran, but I liked my power windows, fog lights, infinity stereo, air conditioning, etc. to work as well. Good Luck.
The Chrysler electrics and accessories are less reliable, so the more options on the vehicle, the more likely the nice things (pwr windows, seats, etc) will go bad on you.
Oh, here:
http://www.edmunds.com/pictures/VEHICLE/2003/Subaru/100076812/009- 900-E.jpg
I think a good option is the Mazda Tribute. Since Mazda re-engineered Ford's crappy transmission, I understand that these are quite nice. I drove one when I was looking at Miatas, and its ride was similar to the Cherokee while being a little more controlled. Handling was typical of a minivan.
Another option is the Saturn Vue. I know several people who have purchased one, they all love theirs. As a bonus, it will fit in your garage. The downside is some consider it a "chick car."
Both of these are pretty lightweight compared to the Cherokee for off-road duty, but they are built in the US of mostly US/Canadian content, so that is a plus for you compared to the Forester. I really like the Forester as well. I drove one while shopping for my wife (we got her a Mazda Protege5).
I know you are "just asking," but why do you ask?
But to answer your question directly, I'd buy a Double cab Tacoma 4X4 TRD with a Supercharged V6 and throw a topper on the back to use for hauling cargo. IMHO the Tacoma is the next best off-roader that's not a Jeep. I had a '95 Tacoma before my Cherokee and it went pretty darned good. Averaged 24mpg too which is much better than the 17-18mpg the Cherokee gets. It's rather thirsty for all the bigger it is. We have a V8 Tahoe that gets 20mpg on the highway and generally averages around 17-18mpg. 50mpg Jetta sorta makes them both seem like pigs but that's another story.