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RE the AC: If the compressor will not run, could be lack of refrigerant charge. A '90 would have been R12 OEM. You will need a R134a conversion. The root cause no refrig would be a leak. Parts stores sell leak detection kits. I do not have any experience using them. My '94 cherokee had a leak at the condenser. I replaced it with a new one ($150); did the work. You then need to pull a vacuum on the system to evac air, then charge. If your not familiar, I recommend a reputable radiator / AC service garage. They should have the proper equipment, gauges, etc. I wasted a lot of time an money by charging myself without evac'ing the air; pressures were very high. I was lucky I didn't damage the system.
I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee with 220K miles on it. Recently, I noticed that whenever I would turn the AC on when the engine is cold, a screeching sound would come for a short while (till the engine warm up). I replaced the Serpentine belt and tightened it to specification but the problem still remains. The AC pulley seems to be turning fine (belt is not skipping) while the compressor makes the sound. Could this be the sign of a bad compressor? Is it safe to replace a compressor by yourself - not take it to a garage?
Thanks
It cycles with the key on but comes on and stays on when I engage the starter.
I do not have an owners manual and Chilton says nothing on it. Does any one know:
1. is it some thing like needs oil change?
2. O2 sensor needs check etc!
3. HOW TO RESET IT
Thanks
Scott :surprise:
Took many mechanics digging around at useless things before one of them thought to check the fuel pressure. it was 50% of what it should have been, and discovery lead to a corroded fuel line. This was an '86 Cavalier, but that's irrelevant. Just a thought for you if you have been only focuses on electrical stuff.
-Chris.
Thanks
That light will come on when the computer notices a faulty signal from one, or more, of the sensors. Chances are the Jeep will run fine for a while. But, if igored long enough, small problems can turn into large ones.
202000 more or less. No owners manual. How do i reset the "maintenance required light? It is not the check engine light. I have disconected the battery to reset the computer but after normal kight cycle at switich on, lights lite then go off, wheh I engage the starter the light comes back on and stays on.
So how do I turn it off/reset/?
HELP
When you hit the brakes, does it shake/vibrate at all higher speeds (not just between 50-55)? The rotors on these aren't that great and aftermarket pads/rotors tends to help with that.
Am having the same problem with the oil pressure gauge. My mechanic says it will be one of two items, either oil pump OR main bearings going out. Will try oil pump first. Hoping that solves the problem. If not on to main bearings. Good luck and pass on any info you might discover.
Thank - Rob in Tampa, FL
No I haven't rotated the tires, but just had my oil changed and tires pressure was checked @ 35psi per tire. The front left seems to have a little more wear on the outside, but it's not very noticable.
The jeep only shakes at 50-55. When I'm going 60-75 it runs very smooth, and when putting on the brakes only shakes in that one range. What do think.
You could try rotating your tires (if you want to do it yourself) and see if the vibration changes. You notice vibrations on the front more than the rear.
Or you could just have the tires rebalanced and see what happens. Tell the tire shop aobut your problem so they can check for an out-of-round tire.
My wife and I looked at the '05. We didn't drive one, but we couldn't get over the smaller size. It appears to be the same size as my Cherokee. And besides, I'm a huge fan of that inline six 4.0L. The '05 has the 3.7L V-6. I know of several folks around here that have the Dodge Dakota's with the 3.7L in them and most have had a catastrophic engine failure before 100k miles. Lots seem to be oil related. We opted for an '04 GC with only 13k miles.
I had the same issue a few years back. The light kept coming on due to sensitivity with the gas cap. Took the Jeep into the dealer and they had a new flash they ran on the software that made it less sensitive and hasn't caused a problem since knock wood.
J
has been on for abour 8 months. But, the brakes still work excellently. Any help would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Maybe your second mechanic will give you a little brighter picture. You can buy used 4.0L engines on Ebay all day long for well under $1,000. Of course, if you don't have the mechanical ability to put a motor in yourself, inclination to try it yourself, and/or the facilities and tools to do it, then you're at a mechanics mercy. I may be wrong, and someone correct me if I am, but any 4.0L out of an '01 Cherokee or an '01 to '04 Grand Cherokee can be used. Those will be a direct replacement, simply bolt it in and plug it in, no modifications at all. Engines out of '96 to '00 Cherokees and Grand Cherokees can also be used, but some electrical modifications will be needed.
Let us know how it goes.
What does the dealer think?
Are you a big fan of ABS??? Living in Alaska you could be. Living in the midwest, I'm not a big fan. Of course I don't drive on snow/ice very often. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to disconnect the ABS module and wait for the light to burn out. Or you could pull the instrument cluster and pull the bulb out.
So: Does anybody have any experience with this? What parts do I need? I've heard a wiring harness, a servo/control unit, and a steering wheel with the buttons installed.
If this won't work, what is the best aftermarket cruise that looks as close to factory as possible?
Thanks
Scott :confuse:
My dealers here in Albuquerque are telling me I can't get OEM parts to install a cruise controal in my recently purchased '01 Sport.
How did you get the parts????
Thanks
Scott MacKie
water pump seems to be ok, radiator seems to be ok. could the a/c condensor
be the problem if it is old and plugged up on the surface with bugs,debris....
4.0 V-6 4x4
You can try using a water hose to flush the debris out. Infact, you might not even have to remove the grill - which is very easy to do, four screws across the top and the grill tilts out. Standard household water pressure shouldn't be strong enough to damage anything, so go ahead and really flush it out. If that doesn't work, then remove the grill and use a bristled brush to clean it out. Using the brush and lots of water, run the brush up and down along the direction of the fins on the condensor. Be somewhat careful when doing this as the fins are very thin aluminum and are fairly easy to bend. If you do happen to bend some, don't panic, they can be straightened out with some patience. It takes a considerable hit to rupture the condensor. However, every bent fin does help to restrict airflow.
If you don't have access to outside water at your house, you can use the coin operated car wash. Set it to rinse so all you are spraying is water. You do need to be careful if you go this route as a pressure sprayer will bend the fins and/or damage the condensor. I wouldn't get the tip of the sprayer closer than 1.5' to 2'.
I hope this helps!
I hope this helps. Good luck.
If there are no plastic tabs sticking out, then go to AutoZone, or some other parts store, and buy a quick disconnect tool kit. If you know what size you need, then you'll only have to buy the one. They should be less than $5 each.
both when towing and by itself. I have replaced the thermostat, and water pump.
I guess the only thing left is the radiator - Unless 210 isn't too bad?
In the last six month I have replaced the air conditioner condenser, water pump,
is it time for a ne vehicle? seems like $500 of something every couple months...