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Comments
Oil pressure? How High? I'm not sure I would trust the factory guage.
Thanks,
Chris
Haynes manual not specific enough on all connections and wire colors. Where can I find this??
I purchased this Jeep in October and have been working on it since, the conditions of this Jeep was really pathetic. The entire wiring and hose systems all tangled mess when a upgrade stereo and amp was put in. Also drove it over heated and with the oil cap off, oil every where, The previous owner had put in a new radiator and dual fan unit. However the second fan I have never seen it work. yet., and it still over heats. It had a hard start problem but after cleaning off the engine, every relay, every connector, starting was a lot better. Then day 3 if limited driving it starter overheating and the parking lights stopped working. Replacing thermostat, rotor, dist. cap a few air hoses , temp sensor,head light switch, and the worst WORN OUT BATTERY CABLES you have ever seen in your life. These things were a fire hazard, and a root of many problems like junked up connectors, and wire and fuse shorts. Now down to the final wire shorting in the fuse box., blowing out the parking lights I need a better diagram for the dash wiring. Then, well hope for the best. Help Please !!
yesterday it stalled twice while driving down the road...after a few tries it restarted but ran extremely rich....this morning while driving my jeep it once again died...only this time upon restart my full tank of gas went to empty and off and on registering....then as i was going 65 mph in the interstate it died....showing ABS lights on...no power windows or locks....and the stereo died....i got it started and took it home....running rich again but with no power to electrical interior....now it sits at a conveince store as it once again stalled with no restart after several tries and 4 hours in between, but the electrical items are working fine .....I'm wondering if the ground wire in driverside door may be bad? maybe the crank position sensor? Auto shutdown relay????? Just so you know i run lucus fuel treatment every 4 tanks. Its acting like the catallic converter is plugged, however that would have no barring on the electrical issues.....
Thank
Ray
so RAC to the rescue, chap said some linkage was missing?
and the gears has been locked into neutral.
he has enabled it to drive in 2 wheel. but said not to touch the selector else it will get stuck in neutral again, the bar moves back and forth but will not select the drive i require.
Is there a kit or something that would remedy this
I have no manual at moment so a bit stuck.
Jeep cherokee 1997 Limited Facelift 2.5td ( VM engine???)
any help and suggestions on which technical manuals to get would be well recieved.
New to Jeeps so a bit of a novice all round. and a bit out of my depth
David
David
Classic symptom of a bad crankshaft position sensor. Get an after-market book on the jeep and look up the test for the crankshaft sensor. ( it's a simple ohm test that can be done from under the hood.) When mine went bad it never threw a code! (check engine light). The crankshaft position sensor is located on the bell housing of the transmission on the top left side (on the back of the motor where the motor and transmission meet) For example- where your gas pedal rod goes up, if you had x-ray vision to look through the floor board, that's where it would be. Its the first least expensive thing you can do. (mine cost $58.00) I also used about a 4 feet worth of extensions to remove the two bolts because there was more "swing room" for the ratchet by the catalytic converter. One almost has to be a contortionist get the bolts started back. you must start them by hand! If you don't and they cross-thread, you will never have room to re-tap the threads!
Good luck!
David
Including some pics in contortionist mode would be an added bonus lol. I had to crawl under my dash last month to pull the alarm fuses when the siren wouldn't go off. I'm getting too old for that stuff!
So after the money I've put into it already, I don't want to put much more in it. Definitely not what it would cost for a complete rebuild or a new engine. So I'm thinking of selling it, but have no idea what to ask for it. It silver, has 145,000 miles, and is in very good-to-excellent condition inside and out. What would you all think this is worth? Knowing it needs the engine rebuilt or replaced?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Just saw your post and realize its two years too late, but here is what I have: I had the same issue with my 01 Cherokee at 130,000 miles. Oil pressure would drop to zero and I would pull off the road and kill the engine, wait a minute and then restart, and it would go back up. It finally went to zero and stayed there at a time when I had no choice but to keep driving. The engine survived just fine, which led me to believe there was an error with gage. After doing some research, I bought a new oil pressure sending (sensor) unit and went to replace it. It is mounted on top of the oil filter and very easy to get to. When I unplugged the wire harness it popped off under pressure which should not happen. The male and female ends of the plugs were also full of oil. Looking closely at the sensor end of the plug I found a hairline crack that explains both issues. When I cleaned the ends and plugged it back in the pressure reading was fine, and has been so every since. The oil leak has either stopped or is contained within the plug. The $50 sending unit now resides in my tool box. By the way, Mobil One has proved itself in this engine as it runs like the day I bought it...Which happens to be the same day I had the OEM oil removed and replaced with Mobil One.
take to rad shop and see if they can check flow rate but new rad is prob cheaper
also check the fan clutch when engine is hot and you shut off motor you should feel drage when you turn the fan by hand (be carefull as the rad will be hot ) when you try this.
David
Good luck, it really is an easy job.
MJGirard
..if you have a/c,there is a vacum operated water valve connected in with the heater hoses..this shuts off the flow of water to the heater core..try moving this valve manually,to see if it;s frozen/rusted into position..try applying some vacum to the digaphram,and seeing if that makes it work..you can test weather you are getting vacum by running the engine,and putting the heater controls either on heat,or air condition,then pulling thee line to the valveone or the other (probably a/c) will give your valve vacum..
..a simple ,and probably cheaper fix would be a trip to the hardware store,and getting a simple water valve.i recomend a ball valve,in either a 5/8,or 3/4 size ,fitted with hose barbs..this will allow you to turn on and off the water to the heater core
..usually,you will only need to open this valve when cold weather comes,then turn it off when the heat of summer comes to keep the engine heat out of the interior..
..if your heating controls are not working,check your main vacum line for your controls..usually when age has dried out the rubber line..cut it back only as mutch as you need,as this will give you a few more opportunities to fix it without having to replace the entire line....
sorry for the late response,but i hope this helps! :shades: