Hi I have Honda Accord 1990 model. I have a problem with my car and the problem is when I am driving the car suddenly by speedo meter downs to zero miles. When the speedo meter is down to zero miles the sports indicator will flash and at the same time check engine light also glows. After some time Speedo meter will be working but the problem still remains with the indicators, Can some one help me what will be the problem.
If it's something like Excessive ATF Temperature, which would seem at least somewhat plausible after a 60-mile highway run, you might be able to salvage the box with a transmission cooler.
I have a 1998 V6 Accord with 113,000 miles. The transmission just failed. The touque converter failed, and killed the transmission. The local Honda dealer said that this is a major problem area.
If your car is bucking, it's probably too late to save the transmission. I went to Aamco and paid $2200 for a rebuilt. Honda wanted $5,000 for a reman.
Hello All! I've been away for some time but I'm back with a new car and a new problem. Back in msg #710 or so I had a 2001 Passat, now I have a 2002 GLX 4mo/Tip.
I took the car to the dealership and they told me at the 20k check that it was approx 3/4 qrt low on fluid. Since the trany is sealed at the factory and not serviced by the dealer, I can only believe I've driven 20k with low fluid.
My question is this: Should I be worried that it's now slipping and the fluid was low or is this no big deal??
My idea is that one the highway, the tranny goes into lock-up and the fluid does not heat up as much. Plus, at 60/70 MPH the cooling is far better. My understanding is that the slushbox will heat up a lot more while you are in stop and go traffic. However, if the radiator is clogged or otherwise pooched, then the tranny may not be getting cooled sufficiently, you are right...
In any case, I would install the tranny cooler, even if you need a new tranny. The new one will need it as well...
Just to let everyone know, I had my first transmission fail at 37K which Honda replaced free of charge. The second transmission failed at 40K and Honda once again replaced the transmission. After the second transmission was replaced, I drove the car to a Toyota dealership and traded it on on a Toyota Solara. The Honda V-6 transmission is problematic and Honda has replaced numerous V-6 transmission in Generation VI Honda Accords.
I suggest you get rid of the car now before you go through the same problems with Honda that I encountered.
I think I stick with my accord. Are you trying to cause a paniac or something? Just because you had issues doesnt mean ever Honda owner should rush and buy another car. Come on???
A friend at work owns a Porsche, the tranny failed on that, should he run to the nearest Mercedes dealership.
I know you are upset with your Honda experience, but dont tell people to sell theirs because your luck wasnt there!
No doubt, some people have had bad experiences with Honda transmissions. If you look at it objectively though, you are still less likely to have a problem with a Honda transmission than with most other cars. There's people out there who went through 2 Toyota transmissions and bought a Honda.
I've had Honda automatics since 1992 and never had any problems with the cars. That's more than I can say of the Subarus, Toyotas, and Chrysler products I've owned. It also doesn't mean that Honda's will never have any problems.
What's the point of dwelling on one person's transmission problem when they've already traded in the car?
Force of habit: I always suggest that codes be pulled.
And the poor soul with the '96 who started this subthread has had problems out on the highway, not in town, so it may well be that he's having cooling-system problems beyond the few rows of the radiator devoted to the transmission - another reason to pull that code.
Well folks, I just went to the dealer to pick up my car, which I dropped off yesterday for it's first oil change and some rattles. I also asked them to check the tranny because it took a bit to engage into drive from P, R or N (1 2 second delay to engage D). No biggie, I thought... I was hoping that they would say that this is normal.....been like this from day #1 Nope, "Re manufactured Transmission" has been ordered. Service told me that this is not "normal". They also told me that they have replaced transmissions on other '03's. I didn't ask for details but I did want to let you all know because I have seen posts on these boards with this same symptom. Question: They tell me that a "Re manufactured Transmission" is not a "re built transmission" because ALL the innards are new (perhaps used casing) and it's not assembled in an assembly line, but rather by humans at Honda motors... Is this true? I also demanded a new torque converter.. they told me that Honda only sends them as together to eliminate contamination concerns. Does anyone have the facts on these two items? Anyone out there work or have worked in Service? Lastly, has anyone had a tranny replaced before? If so, what everything right after that major repair (alignment, rattles, no damage, etc.) They tell me that the car will not need wheel alignment. Can anyone confirm that? Sorry for the long post, but given all the tranny issues and questions, I thought the replies to this one would be helpful for others as well. Thanks!
Bummer! Yes it means re built. The cases will be used and the seals and some parts will be new to include the torque converter. Honda told you the truth about the torque converter and not needing a wheel alignment. The transmissions are re built at an overhaul facility contracted by Honda, built up by hand. Your re built transmission should be fine, but I know that won't make you feel any better. Honda's policy is to give the customer a re built transmission for replacement. If you are really concerned about the alignment remember like most cars including Honda, you get one free alignment at no charge during the first 12 months or 12K miles, whichever come first. It's called an adjustment and it's covered by your standard warranty. Most people just don't know to ask for it. When you get your car back, if it doesn't feel right, have Honda align it or wait until you are close to 12K and have a free alignment done anyway. Changing the transmission shouldn't induce any other unwanted problems. Good luck, I hope this helps.
almost certainly a speed sensor in the tranny case, allegedly a fairly easy repair in the $100-140 range. or a goofy connector hooking up to it, which will cost you a few bucks to have removed, cleaned, greased, and put back on.
Well it seems my original question in #1268 has been answered. Low transmission fluid does cause apparently serious damage. It took more than a week and probably 100 miles of test driving but a technician has finally recognized my transmission problem. The answer: replace the transmission.
Question? I am thinking about buying a 1990 Range Rover from a person I know at work. I took it for a test drive. When I put the RR in reverse it makes this awful clunk. Is this a sign the transmission is going on it. Has anyone had this problem. The owner says it has been doing it the whole time they have owned it. (the last 3 years) Is it something I should be concerend about. The transmission also has a leak near the oil pan.
Research RR and you will find that they have the highest premiums in the industry for extended service insurance contracts -- on even new ones. NEVER, Never buy a lux import [Japanese or European/British] without a truly qualified technican having examined everything for 2-3 hours.
The problem is all parts are from ther dealer, no domestic aftermarket parts for price competition thus things cost double or triple to repair.
Almost all early 90 lux imports [mostly Japanese and Bmw/MB] we see for [prebuy]inspection need $3,000-$10,000 worth of repair work to get even near new performance condition. A tranny replacement with a rebuild will be $3,000 or more, AC $2,000-$3,000, suspension $1,000-$3,000, engine work?
A 14 year old car? You better knoww what you are doing! But if you pay $2,000 and spend another $5,000 to get them right...
Oh, this is not a vehicle to take any chances with. I'd have it gone over ten times by a qualified technician and I'd bargain hard on the price after I had the repair list in my hands.
This car is risky, and not of a great reputation, so be careful.
Yes, this car may be more trouble than it's worth.
What a pity Range Rover's reputation has gone down the tubes! They just didn't keep up with the competition in most areas, and particularly in reliability.
I remember the old Land Rover of 20-odd years ago. It used to be the best regarded off-road vehicle everywhere in the world.
From the posts about it appears that the problem is caused by the worst case tolerance stackup. If you assemble a bunch of parts manufactured to the outer limits of their tolerances, you will maximaze the problems and create something called a "tolerance stackup" phenomenon. In case of the drivetrain, this condition increases the gear backlash (play between individual gears) to an absolute maximum, and this translates to an annoying clunk at that point whenever the drivetrain is initially loaded and the play between the components removed.
The fix for this problem: either to manufacture the parts to tighter tolerances, or properly match the parts to avoid the worst case. This is commonly done when manufacturing components such as diesel injection pumps. Bosh injection pump part tolerances are so tight that pistons must be hand matched to the injection pump cylinders to provide proper performance and durability. GM will do nothing of the kind with their driveline parts becuase this would greatly slow down their production.
Yes but it was a primitive beast back then, and would not be competitive in that form. Now it's all gussied up and with all that complexity and plushness and extra-options, troubles arise more readily.a
Personally, a 1990 Range Rover with some problems is a car that wouldn't be easy to give away. Buyers are shy of the possible expenses involved, which can be formidable.
Hello joe3891! Yes, there's a warranty. I'm not paying for the repair or the rental. There was a warranty on the 2001 I had as well when VWA bought me out over pretty much the same issue. So I bought a 2002 so as not to lose money on the deal.
I think I'm just sick to death of seeing the Service Reps at the dealership - although they are VERY nice. It has become emabarrasing to be greeted by name when I walk in. I bought the 'top of the line' expecting to have carefree driving; and this time it's been great for 20k miles.
My olds minivan has just started to shift out of O.D. when I accelerate,like it should but now it won't return to O.D. unless I come to a stop first. Except for the higher rpms on the tach I notice nothing wrong. I changed the fluid/filter, checked and replaced the vacuum lines. Engine vacuum is steedy at 20. I don't suspect the modulator because shifts are normal and no slippage is noticable. ANY IDEAS?
Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise #01-07-30-042A - (11/26/2002) Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise 2003 and Prior Light Duty Trucks with 4L60E or 4L65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year as well as information about 3-2 downshift. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
First, searching this site I find far less on Taurus than I would expect considering rumor and that there are more of this vehicle on the road than any other. Secondly, all to often problems are the result of a mechanics work or lack of and not just defects.
So what is the officially approved fluid for this transmission? I saw an earlier post, someone claiming Ford now says to replace Mercon with Mercon V.
I rebuilt a 86 AXOD and you should not be intimidated to rebuild. Yes there are a lot of parts, and being careful in laying them out as you clean is paramount. I did it in my car port and after the initial cleaning, just closely inspected for contamination upon assembly. The one tool I would recommend getting is the compressor for opening up the clutch packs. I suspect you could find one for under $50. Other than common tools such as sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, & drill bits I only needed a set of feeler gauges, an o-ring pick, and a multi-meter to read switch continuity. If double checking your work, you might want a pressure gauge to check the pressures in the tranny via the external threaded plugs. Other than the standard rebuild kits, I needed one accumulator spring and the low gear band. I may have replaced the overdrive band as well. I remember I had to by an updated part through Ford. I paid a local shop to pull it and re-install and bring it to my car port a few miles away for $250. Total cost to me was a little over $500 including ATSG manuals. I was on pins and needles double checking every step and I think the shop cracked the radiator end tank near the top and didn't discover that for a couple of months, but bet there would have been more damage by most shops and know they all would have denied responsibility unless you caught them in the act. Result: A transmission that performed flawlessly still four years later. No parts not put in quite right that go after the warranty or they say is a new problem or that rough shift, slip, etc, etc is nothing to worry about. And I saved $1200 over the cheapest estimate. They always add what they call hard parts and can easily be another $1000.
It seems to be shifting wrong. I.E. 1-2, 2-3 always seem good. Torque lock often acts like a clutch slipping into gear. Rpm initially drops some followed by a slide of a few hundred RPM before lock. Over-drive will engage as low as about 32MPH. (Problems most noted with mild to moderate acceleration). Also have noted after decel through a turn, and mild acceleration will have the car in 3rd, torque locked almost chugging at 1000RPM. Using a slow but steady push on the accelerator, after some distance, it will pop out of lock and 3rd simultaneously. There are no codes in the computer, but it also seems to be about 2MPG low.
Does anyone have the proper test shift speeds for accel and decel? Fluid flushed and pan wasn't inordinate for the mileage. Used Mercon.
OK, great, GM sold me and thousands of other people clunkers. Now the question is what can we do about it? What recourse do we have to force them to either fix the problem, which they probably can't or give us our money back? Any suggestions?
Hi everyone, This should be an easy one for anyone who is familiar with transmissions (not me). I have a 95 Ford F150 with an auto trans and 160,000 miles. I let it sit for two months. Now, I almost have to help it shift by over-reving the engine then backing off the gas. I checked the fluid and it seemed a tad over filled. Anyone have an idea of what the problem is?
I happen to live on a hill and the driveway going up to my house is very steep. Sometimes when a neighbor is pulling out I have to stop and get going again on one of the steepest parts. Also if I have to load something in the trunk this requires me to back up my steep driveway.
I would like to think the transmission is designed for this but I wonder just what kind of abuse I am giving it everyday? Should I expect early transmission trouble or should I be okay?
Has anyone ever heard of Phoenix Hard Parts? They rebuild transmissions and I assume they are in Phoenix, AZ. If anyone has done business with them or knows someone who has, I'd like to hear from you.
When starting briskly from a dead stop, I get a slip and grab that acts like tires would. But the tires shouldn't be slipping under those conditions. Is it possible for a transmission to slip like that from a low idle speed when hitting the gas harder than usual? The car is a 98 LeSabre with 65e transmission?
We have a 1998 Accord V6 EX with 62500 miles on it. The transmission slips once you have decelerated to 25mph or less and then re-accelerate. Is it the transmission as the dealer says ($4000 for a rebuilt) or a computer programming problem
Sounds like a clutch is slipping. Do all the obvious and cheap stuff first. Check the fluid-if it is low or dark/burnt-change the atf-when it is hot using only honda atf. IF you used something other than honda atf say about 2-4K miles ago-that is why it is slipping.
If it does have to be rebuilt-found a guy who will rebuild them in my neck of the woods for around $1500 replacing almost all of the wear parts-turned out all that was wrong with mine was a speed sensor.
You should be getting a cel-check engine light-can get it read for free at a Autozone store.
Im trying to figure out what this could be. I first thought it was slipping of the clutch, but my friend seems to think is something wrong with the transmission. I bought a 1996 Tacoma 4cyl about 2 weeks ago. This is a weekend truck, so I havent driven it much since I bought it. When I first test drove it, it ran great, no problems. I then brought the truck to my mechanic the next day, again drove with no problem, great. The next day I brought it back to the owner, ran great. My mechanic did say the clutch had about 25% of its life left, and depending on how I drove, it may last up to a year. The next night after I brought the truck to the mechanic, we transfered the title in my name. When I drove the truck home, I started to get what I thought (or what it is) slipping of the clutch. Heres what happened. I would proceed to put the clutch in first, and the stick would "slip" or move back into neutral. This would happen as I release the clutch pedal. At first, holding the stick in the gear seemed to work, but then the gear grinded a bit, so that was a no go. I then tried second gear, and it worked fine. When I tried to go into third gear, it did the same thing. Someone did mention that I should check my transmissionn fluid. Is there a resorvior for this? If not, what do I look for?
If anyone has ANY suggestions/comments, please post them. Thanks.
I am getting my transmission relplaced (Toronto) after 65,000kms. My 2001 4cyl, auto, is in good shape with regular maint but the past month the trany has acted up. The shift from 1st to 2nd revs high and jumps into gear. I first tried new tany fluid but didn't work so they will replace since under warranty. I am selling and buying a 2004 Toyota Highlander.
I have a 1990 Turbo Diesel that seems to drink water. I put in about half a litre every 4/5 days. I had a pressure test for head gasket and no problems there, I checked sludge in air filter a few creamy specks but nothing much, the oil in the sump is clean with no white spots and all the hoses are tight, no leaks anywhere...So is it just the wacky world of landrover? I must admit I drive 50 miles a day to work and back and an average of 2,000 miles a month in total. So if anyone can help me I will be very grateful.
I am having problems with my 95 Dodge Stratus transmission. RPM's revving high doing only 20-30 MPH (when it works, sometimes it doesn't move). Had the tranny rebuilt, ran great for two months then same problems came back. I was told it was sensors, replaced them and still same problems. Took it to Dodge they suggest rebuilding or replacing, but have no idea about the RPM's. What am I to do?
Check and see if your coolant overflow tank is cracked.
Also on today's engines, water leaks are hard to spot and sometimes only occur when the engine is very warm--so you can't easily observe it. A pint of water every 5 days is only a couple shotglasses a day. You might not see it.
Do you notice any white smoke (steam) from the tailpipe? Are your floors ever wet? Do you notice any funny smells inside the car?
I have a 1988 Oldsmobile 98. I bought it in 1998 for $3800 when it had 68,000 miles. Since then we've put about $4000 in maintenance and repair into it, including a new radiator, new ac, new headliner, paint job, new cv boots, some engine work to fix an oil leak, new tires, new brake pads, etc. It now has 115,000 miles and the transmission seems to be going. It seems fine in the first two gears, but in 3rd or 4th (I'm not sure which) when you're going up a hill sometimes (not always) it seems to slip, jerk, and hunt for a better gear. It still gets you to where you're going and doesn't lose much speed, but it does not inspire confidence. This is the car my wife mainly drives, because she perfers an auto and I like my 5-speed Honda Accord.
My wife wants me to go to a mechanic and ask first if the transmission is going, and second is there something to do to prevent it from going. To me, the answer is very likely to be yes and no, respectively. They'll want to rebuilt it, which will cost (I have no real idea) $2000-$3000? (Any guess for that make an model?) It would be painful though possible to afford a new transmission at this point, and so I'm inclined to drive it until it dies and then decide whether to fix it. I'm letting my wife drive the Honda if she wants in the meantime (she worries that the Olds might fail suddenly and completely--is that likely?). It seems to me like the Olds might possibly go years in this way and still be driveable.
This car is probably worth $1000 or less at this point. Is it worth pouring more money into it? Or when the transmission dies should I buy another car. I actually like the Olds because it has great headroom, legroom, and trunkspace. The seats are still nice in a cushy sofa kind of way. But perhaps the engine, even though it seems fine, is about to go too. Who knows? Should I get a compression test to see how the engine is? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I would like, if possible, to get to 150k and have it last 3 to 4 more years. Thanks.
I recall there were problems that seemed to be transmissions with the Large Buicks/Olds before 1992 changes. Some were engine driveability problems. Some were motor mounts.
A lady I work with had one. You might find a knowledgeable repair shop or dealer to ask the questions and diagnose which you have. I believe my dealer told the lady her problem was the transmission and it might go a long time. It would cost her $1500 to repair it then and $1500 to repair it later if it does go out completely.
I've got a '99 V-6 EX Accord with 51,000 miles on it. The "check engine" light came on yesterday so I took it to the local Honda dealer expecting them to say something like I needed a new oxygen sensor or new spark plugs. WRONG!! I was told the computer displayed a code of P0740, which means the automatic transmission failed and must be replaced. They want $4600 (plus labor, I think) to replace it. This is my first Honda and I was expecting much more out of it.... like no problems maybe until at least 200k miles. I'll talk to the Honda of America Rep tomorrow to see if they can help. Has anybody else had trouble with their 1999 Accord automatic transmissions? Any advice in dealing with manufacturer's representative?
Isn't that covered on the additional warranty Honda has on that model year Accord? I have a 2001 Accord LX that Honda extended the tranny warranty to 7yrs/100K miles.
kelso53: According to Honda's Owner Link, it indicates the '00-'01 V6 tranny's are covered. I seem to remember that it used to also include '98-'99 model years with the V6. They excluded the '02's though (my year) which is concerning considering I do not like the way mine is shifting between 1&2 and do not like it even more when it downshifts from 2 to 1. Having it looked at on the next service visit.
You should have access to the owner link for your year. Perhaps it's addressed differently on your account.
Also, check old messages on this page. I'm almost positive I recall reading other '98-'99 owners getting the extended warranty.
Comments
After some time Speedo meter will be working but the problem still remains with the indicators, Can some one help me what will be the problem.
If your car is bucking, it's probably too late to save the transmission. I went to Aamco and paid $2200 for a rebuilt. Honda wanted $5,000 for a reman.
I've been away for some time but I'm back with a new car and a new problem. Back in msg #710 or so I had a 2001 Passat, now I have a 2002 GLX 4mo/Tip.
I took the car to the dealership and they told me at the 20k check that it was approx 3/4 qrt low on fluid. Since the trany is sealed at the factory and not serviced by the dealer, I can only believe I've driven 20k with low fluid.
My question is this: Should I be worried that it's now slipping and the fluid was low or is this no big deal??
Thanks for any info!
-Fran
In any case, I would install the tranny cooler, even if you need a new tranny. The new one will need it as well...
G.
I suggest you get rid of the car now before you go through the same problems with Honda that I encountered.
A friend at work owns a Porsche, the tranny failed on that, should he run to the nearest Mercedes dealership.
I know you are upset with your Honda experience, but dont tell people to sell theirs because your luck wasnt there!
I've had Honda automatics since 1992 and never had any problems with the cars. That's more than I can say of the Subarus, Toyotas, and Chrysler products I've owned. It also doesn't mean that Honda's will never have any problems.
What's the point of dwelling on one person's transmission problem when they've already traded in the car?
And the poor soul with the '96 who started this subthread has had problems out on the highway, not in town, so it may well be that he's having cooling-system problems beyond the few rows of the radiator devoted to the transmission - another reason to pull that code.
Any other folks out there with experience on this matter?
Anyone care to buy a gently used '02 Passat 4mo??
NEVER, Never buy a lux import [Japanese or European/British] without a truly qualified technican having examined everything for 2-3 hours.
The problem is all parts are from ther dealer, no domestic aftermarket parts for price competition thus things cost double or triple to repair.
Almost all early 90 lux imports [mostly Japanese and Bmw/MB] we see for [prebuy]inspection need $3,000-$10,000 worth of repair work to get even near new performance condition.
A tranny replacement with a rebuild will be $3,000 or more, AC $2,000-$3,000, suspension $1,000-$3,000, engine work?
A 14 year old car? You better knoww what you are doing! But if you pay $2,000 and spend another $5,000 to get them right...
This car is risky, and not of a great reputation, so be careful.
What a pity Range Rover's reputation has gone down the tubes! They just didn't keep up with the competition in most areas, and particularly in reliability.
I remember the old Land Rover of 20-odd years ago. It used to be the best regarded off-road vehicle everywhere in the world.
The fix for this problem: either to manufacture the parts to tighter tolerances, or properly match the parts to avoid the worst case. This is commonly done when manufacturing components such as diesel injection pumps. Bosh injection pump part tolerances are so tight that pistons must be hand matched to the injection pump cylinders to provide proper performance and durability. GM will do nothing of the kind with their driveline parts becuase this would greatly slow down their production.
Personally, a 1990 Range Rover with some problems is a car that wouldn't be easy to give away. Buyers are shy of the possible expenses involved, which can be formidable.
Yes, there's a warranty. I'm not paying for the repair or the rental. There was a warranty on the 2001 I had as well when VWA bought me out over pretty much the same issue. So I bought a 2002 so as not to lose money on the deal.
I think I'm just sick to death of seeing the Service Reps at the dealership - although they are VERY nice. It has become emabarrasing to be greeted by name when I walk in. I bought the 'top of the line' expecting to have carefree driving; and this time it's been great for 20k miles.
Forgive my rant...
-Fran
Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
2003 and Prior Light Duty Trucks
with 4L60E or 4L65E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2003 model year as well as information about 3-2 downshift. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
Secondly, all to often problems are the result of a mechanics work or lack of and not just defects.
So what is the officially approved fluid for this transmission? I saw an earlier post, someone claiming Ford now says to replace Mercon with Mercon V.
I rebuilt a 86 AXOD and you should not be intimidated to rebuild. Yes there are a lot of parts, and being careful in laying them out as you clean is paramount. I did it in my car port and after the initial cleaning, just closely inspected for contamination upon assembly. The one tool I would recommend getting is the compressor for opening up the clutch packs. I suspect you could find one for under $50. Other than common tools such as sockets, wrenches, screw drivers, & drill bits I only needed a set of feeler gauges, an o-ring pick, and a multi-meter to read switch continuity. If double checking your work, you might want a pressure gauge to check the pressures in the tranny via the external threaded plugs. Other than the standard rebuild kits, I needed one accumulator spring and the low gear band. I may have replaced the overdrive band as well. I remember I had to by an updated part through Ford. I paid a local shop to pull it and re-install and bring it to my car port a few miles away for $250. Total cost to me was a little over $500 including ATSG manuals. I was on pins and needles double checking every step and I think the shop cracked the radiator end tank near the top and didn't discover that for a couple of months, but bet there would have been more damage by most shops and know they all would have denied responsibility unless you caught them in the act. Result: A transmission that performed flawlessly still four years later. No parts not put in quite right that go after the warranty or they say is a new problem or that rough shift, slip, etc, etc is nothing to worry about. And I saved $1200 over the cheapest estimate. They always add what they call hard parts and can easily be another $1000.
Also have noted after decel through a turn, and mild acceleration will have the car in 3rd, torque locked almost chugging at 1000RPM. Using a slow but steady push on the accelerator, after some distance, it will pop out of lock and 3rd simultaneously. There are no codes in the computer, but it also seems to be about 2MPG low.
Does anyone have the proper test shift speeds for accel and decel? Fluid flushed and pan wasn't inordinate for the mileage. Used Mercon.
Any suggestions?
This should be an easy one for anyone who is familiar with transmissions (not me). I have a 95 Ford F150 with an auto trans and 160,000 miles. I let it sit for two months. Now, I almost have to help it shift by over-reving the engine then backing off the gas. I checked the fluid and it seemed a tad over filled. Anyone have an idea of what the problem is?
I would like to think the transmission is designed for this but I wonder just what kind of abuse I am giving it everyday? Should I expect early transmission trouble or should I be okay?
The car is a 98 LeSabre with 65e transmission?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
tnx
e
If it does have to be rebuilt-found a guy who will rebuild them in my neck of the woods for around $1500 replacing almost all of the wear parts-turned out all that was wrong with mine was a speed sensor.
You should be getting a cel-check engine light-can get it read for free at a Autozone store.
If anyone has ANY suggestions/comments, please post them. Thanks.
Also on today's engines, water leaks are hard to spot and sometimes only occur when the engine is very warm--so you can't easily observe it. A pint of water every 5 days is only a couple shotglasses a day. You might not see it.
Do you notice any white smoke (steam) from the tailpipe? Are your floors ever wet? Do you notice any funny smells inside the car?
My wife wants me to go to a mechanic and ask first if the transmission is going, and second is there something to do to prevent it from going. To me, the answer is very likely to be yes and no, respectively. They'll want to rebuilt it, which will cost (I have no real idea) $2000-$3000? (Any guess for that make an model?) It would be painful though possible to afford a new transmission at this point, and so I'm inclined to drive it until it dies and then decide whether to fix it. I'm letting my wife drive the Honda if she wants in the meantime (she worries that the Olds might fail suddenly and completely--is that likely?). It seems to me like the Olds might possibly go years in this way and still be driveable.
This car is probably worth $1000 or less at this point. Is it worth pouring more money into it? Or when the transmission dies should I buy another car. I actually like the Olds because it has great headroom, legroom, and trunkspace. The seats are still nice in a cushy sofa kind of way. But perhaps the engine, even though it seems fine, is about to go too. Who knows? Should I get a compression test to see how the engine is? Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. I would like, if possible, to get to 150k and have it last 3 to 4 more years. Thanks.
Large Buicks/Olds before 1992 changes. Some were engine driveability
problems. Some were motor mounts.
A lady I work with had one. You might find a knowledgeable repair shop
or dealer to ask the questions and diagnose which you have.
I believe my dealer told the lady her problem was the transmission and it
might go a long time. It would cost her $1500 to repair it then and $1500
to repair it later if it does go out completely.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It would, in my opinion be false economy to repair that transmission.
Today's shop prices are staggering!
Suggest you take it to another dealer and have them evaluate it.
According to Honda's Owner Link, it indicates the '00-'01 V6 tranny's are covered. I seem to remember that it used to also include '98-'99 model years with the V6. They excluded the '02's though (my year) which is concerning considering I do not like the way mine is shifting between 1&2 and do not like it even more when it downshifts from 2 to 1. Having it looked at on the next service visit.
You should have access to the owner link for your year. Perhaps it's addressed differently on your account.
Also, check old messages on this page. I'm almost positive I recall reading other '98-'99 owners getting the extended warranty.
Good luck.