Transmission Traumas?

Mr_Shiftright · February 2004

Hmmm....okay, good research!

This is a sticky one, now that you've clarified what's going on.

I guess if i were in your shoes I wouldn't touch it until such time as the leak gets worse...if it ever does. Naturally you'll have to supervise any oil changes to that transmission so that a gorilla doesn't tighten it too much again. The condition you describe could very well have occurred due to excessive torque but I don't know how you'd ever prove such a thing. Even the factory might have done it.

You might try some non-permanent locktite in the threads for now and see if that helps. it's possible it could be sealed but of course that will have to be redone each time you do a flush...which shouldn't be very often.

imidazol97 · February 2004

My 98 trans has had an uneven lockup on the torque converter for a couple of years. The dealer diagnosed it as the control valve that applies and lessens the pressure for the lockup which allows a slight slip.

They told me since I hadn't changed the fluid until 60K (100K should have been when it needed changed) the varnish had made the valve stick.

I changed fluid 3 times myself after the diagnosis over about 10K and that helped a lot. It also made the shifts as smooth as the day I bought it.

The uneveness in the lockup is really showing up now that the weather is cold (0 - 15). The colder it is the longer the unevenless is very apparent. It takes about 10 minutes of driving after the engine temp is at full temperature. I assume the trans keeps heating up since it flows the fluid through the radiator, and the radiator doesn't warm up any until after the engine is at full heat.

Should I go ahead and have the valve body replaced and that valve replaced? Wait for a further failure?

alcan · February 2004

This usually fixes it permanently by repairing, not replacing, the valve body:

http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/84754-34k.htm

imidazol97 · February 2004

Is that a repair that a dealer should be interested in doing? OR is it one that I
should go to a specialty transmission shop --
not one of the chains.

My dealer mentioned only replacing the valve body
in his analysis and talked about $600 or more.

My guess here on parts and time at an honest shop would be $200-250?

alcan · February 2004

It's not likely a dealer will want to repair the valve body when they can sell a new or factory remanufactured one (easy to spot, they have SERV stamped on them). Try a good trans shop.

spudislander · February 2004

The owner's manual for my 99 Tercel 4sd automtic indicated that it will hold about 3.1 liters of ATF. I was wondering the following:

1. Is 3.1 liters is the amount the ATF holds if it's a complete change?

2. How much will it hold if I just empty at the drain plug and refill?

3. Can I switch to something like Castrol or Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF and was wondering if it can be safely mixed? (If I change it by just replacing with the synthetic after each drain from the drainplug, I assume there will still be some left in the torque converter.)

spudislander · February 2004

My 1998 Ford Escort was shift abruptly when warm and I discovered that when the Transmission shop changed the auotmatic fluid thay had overfilled it.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2004

So draining the fluid cured that problem?

vcheng · March 2004

http://www.ilma.org/resources/ftc_dcc_letter.pdf

autonuts · March 2004

I'm not sure if this is the best category under transmissions to ask this, but I'll go ahead and ask anyway. What transmission is less costly to work on: a rear wheel drive or a front wheel drive? How does an all wheel drive like Subaru figure in on this question? Thanks to all!

Mr_Shiftright · March 2004

No easy answer, it really depends on how it is designed and engineered when it is put into the car.

bob2 · April 2004

Where can I find info about technical service bulletins for general motors? TSBs have been referenced in responses to a problem I have with my 02 Bravada, but I don't know where I can look them up. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2004

We have some information on-site at Edmunds. Try this for a starter:

TSB info

Host

vern4035 · April 2004

My car is a 1994 850 manual transmission car with only 82,000 miles. How do I know when to change the clutch? My car is making a soft winding/grinding noise at all times, even when sitting idle. Similar to the noise made when the car is in reverse. I'm going forward, but the car sounds as if I'm in reverse.

imidazol97 · April 2004

Try Edmunds TSB area and the car model discussions. Asking there usually brings it from someone who has already done the legwork.

Try searching for the number of the TSB or the key words in the title on Google or your favorite search engine. I've found the test of the TSB there in some cases.

jeber · April 2004

I've heard that the flushing systems used by repair shops can differ, and that there is certain type/brand that is pretty much superior to the others. However, I don't know what this preferred type is...does anyone know? If I'm gonna spend the $ to have this done, I might as well go with what works best.

I've never had a shop do a flush. (I've had lots of manual/clutch and usually do my own maint.) Now my 95 Pathfinder's auto transmission is due...I did fluid/filter change myself a couple years back but it was not something I want to tackle again, as Nissan cleverly designed the exhaust in a manner that you need to disconnect it to drop the pan and get the filter out. So, a fairly easy, if messy task becomes a HUGE, time-consuming pita!

thanks for any info.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2004

VERN--sounds like bearing wear in the transmission, not a clutch issue...UNLESS, when you are standing still, you need to have your foot ON the clutch when you get this noise. But if the clutch is released and you are hearing whining noises while in neutral or while driving, this is most likely wear inside the transmission.

This may or may not be a big deal...transmission do tend to get a little noisy as they age. You should check your fluid levels right away and get the oil changed in the trans as well, and perhaps try a REDLINE products additive and see what happens.

sil · April 2004

Hello,

I purchased a '83 MBZ 300TD recently and sience I bought it the trasmission does not work when I put in in D-drive. It used to go slow, but pick up speed after, but recently it does not move. Revers gear works fine. I checked the transmission oil level and after the car was ideling for 5 min level was two inches above the mark. I would like to ask anybody who can help with:
1. Is it normal for transmission fluid to to so hight?
2. Is there any vaccum which controls the first gear of the transmission? (somebody told me this:)
3. Transmission has been replaced about 5 years ago by a MB service technician. Do you think I have any other alternatives than replacing the transmission again?

thanks

isellhondas · April 2004

Ah...I would take it to a shop that specializes in these cars. DO NOT take it to one of the well know chains that advertise all of the time.

Hate to say this, but, if it does need a transmission the cost will probably exceed the value of the car. Hopefully it's an easy fix but it doesn't sound good based on your description.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2004

Vacuum controls shift points but not engagement.

Sounds like it's finished but by all means check fluids, etc.

garya52 · May 2004

brand new 2004 v6 5 speed, at 70 mph and 2000rpms, whole car vibrates while in 5th gear.sounds like a subwoofer speaker is on. push clutch in and the vibration goes away. going 70 mph in 4th gear and there is no vibration. car had 32 miles on it when bought it, put 200 miles on today and vibration drove me crazy.Bringing it up to 85mph in 5th and vibration was still there. bringing car back to dealer monday am. ANY SUGGESTIONS? NOT THE WAY I WANTED TO START OFF!

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

It's gonna be tough because of speed required to duplicate the problem.

Actually, 70 mph at 2,000 in overdrive might be a stress for the engine, especially uphill you'd notice this. It is almost "lugging" the engine.

If they can't find anything (hope they do) you might have to change your driving habits a bit for this particular car. Some engines have the torque for this low rpm/5th gear business and some don't.

ryanfiala81 · May 2004

My '97 LeSabre (with two previous owners and a little over 80K miles) has a hitch in its shift from 3rd to 4th at just under 50 mph. At all levels of acceleration, the tach goes from 2,000 RPM down to 1,600 or so, then flares back up once again to 2,000 before settling into 4th. The place that changes my oil doesn't know about this problem, but showed me the difference in the color of my trans fluid compared to how it's supposed to look. They offered to flush my trans for $50. I'm hesitant to see a link between a one consistently unsure shift and dirty fluid, but I'm curious:
1) how hard it would be to change my trans fluid myself
2) any negative effects changing it (or having it changed) might have on the tranny's long-term health
3) what might be at the root of my shifting problem

Should I read into the term "electronic" overdrive? Might there be a sensor that's not correctly identifying its shift point?). Any suggestions and possible cures would be most appreciated. Thanks.

imidazol97 · May 2004

I suspect your problem is the torque converter lockup control valve that modulates the amount of lockup to keep the lockup smooth. I have a problem with it on my 98. It started at about 75K. I had changed the trans fluid myself at 65K.

The valve wears in its bore and lets fluid go past itself making it hard for it to control the amount of lockup. During the 3 4 shift I occasionally have an odd roughness that didn't used to be there. This is along with the varying tachometer at light loads; it goes up and down a couple hundred rpm even when the load doesn't shift. My dealer told me on most cars this shows more when the trans is very warm after highway driving.

I'd have the trans fluid changed just by dropping the pan and replacing the filter too, if you don't believe it's been done for 30K or so. If the trans fluid still looks pink, the the fluid is not the problem.

Wait to see if Alcan on here comments on your problem. He's told me a couple of things about mine.

billa582 · May 2004

I am not sure if something is wrong or not however whenever I am on a hill or unlevel ground to put my car in park or drive the autmatic shifter is really hard to put in these gears..I havent noticed it till recently but maybe have been doing this before too..Has anyone had similiar problems or know what maybe wrong??Thank you.

isellhondas · May 2004

If you aren't, you are putting a lot of pressure on that tiny park pawl. Always set your emergency brake first, before putting your car in park.

danw · May 2004

I have a 1990 Dodge Dakota 4x4, Auto with 103000 miles on it. Reverse just went out I can feel it pop into gear but then nothing. It will back up a little if it sets all night. Any idea's Thanks

dshepherd3 · May 2004

You could pull the pan and adjust the reverse band, but if it is that worn not to engage, most likely an adjustment won't work. But look anyway. Also could press. test the unit in reverse, might have popped the reverse servo piston seal.

troybarwick · June 2004

My 2003 4runner Sport V6 was purchased May 10, 2003. I had 21,496 miles on it. The transmission died this morning. The symptoms were extreme drag and hesitation at low speed, and being unable to go in reverse. My dealer is supposed to get the new transmission in tomorrow.

Has anyone else heard of this?! This was my first non-American car. I bought this because I was sick of unreliable American cars. Now look what has happend to me!! So much for Toyota "quality."

isellhondas · June 2004

That's why we have warranties.

jjk32 · June 2004

Recently my daughters 2000 ZX2's automatic will not allow her to take it out of park. It's like the release button is stuck. It has 30,000 miles on it. Has anyone heard of this?

georgie52josh · June 2004

As I noted in posting # 2289 on the Town Hall Message board, I own a 2002 F 150 Supercrew 4 x 4 with ESOF.
My problem is that the shift knob physically moves from 2H to 4H and sometimes even to 4L with no effort on my part or any touching of the shift knob.
I have been to my Ford dealer twice- the first time they replaced the GEM module and the second time (2 wks.ago) the Ford dealer replaced the ESOF knob, but I still have the same problem
Suggestions????
georgie52josh

silverfoucs · June 2004

I have a 2001 focus se with less than 50k. The transmission flares (rpm jump) before overdrive. Dropped pan and changed servo (sp?) piston and silenoid (sp?). Anyone have any other ideas? Sorry about the spelling.

bjl · June 2004

Our 1999 Old's Intrigue is just at just about 50000 miles. A couple weeks ago I had taken it to my local Chevy dealer for it's 50000 mile trans service. They did a trans flush. After the work was done, when I merged onto the highway, putting the pedal down the car did a little shake. I thought maybe its air in the system from the flush? When I got home the dealership was closed. The next day I called and talked to the service manager. He said to keep an eye on it. It has done this shake a few times now from a dead stop. Like its looking for gear.
None of this crap existed before the servicing. Could they have done something wrong? Monday I will need to call my dealer again. Felt like I was doing the right thing by following the recommended Maintenance schedule. Now I'm wondering.
Any experience or ideas?

Thanks,
BJL

joe3891 · June 2004

have caused problems and I don't know the exact cause but it stirs up the fluid and may loosen sludge or trapped debris. Sometimes the pan is not dropped and filter not changed, a no no. I myself stick with the old tried and true method pan drop and filter change every 30K no matter what my manual states, its worked for 45 yrs.

russla · June 2004

Hi,
a Friend is telling me that the reason Chrysler transmissions fail is that they are constantly cycling in and out of overdrive around town. To make them last, he recommended I just drive in 3rd, when driving slower than 40MPH, which eliminates the on/off behavior of the OD around town. Obviously on hwy, etc put it in Drive.

my 04, doesn't have a switch to turn off the OD, so I presume it is a true 4 speed, and doesn't have an over drive.

Does any one know what the major failures were from? and has the 4 speed changed drastically such that those earlier issues are not applicable?

Thanks in advance

tzoomer · July 2004

aka Tiptronic, sequential shift...

As a compromise between my like of manual and spouse's wish for automatic, I tried a Mazda with their 5 sp "sport shift automatic." It's a "paddle" sort mounted on the floor, offset from D in the automatic pattern (which is P-R-N-D only). This seems to be an unsatisfactory hybrid because it has an electronic mind of its own, shifting up or down only when it thinks conditions are right rather than directly when I tell it to. Sure, that could save embarrassment now and then, but it also produces a variable/unpredictable lag that annoys me. When the car is stopped in this "manual" mode, it always drops into 1st gear. That's OK but didn't help me remember I wasn't in full auto mode. The automatic seems to be tuned for an "economy" mode, as it always upshifts early IMO unless pressed really hard, and no driver's way to change that.

What is other's experience with semi-automatics, and have you found one that is "as-good-as" a short-throw stick, instantly responsive?

ryanbab · August 2004

Ok this is my gfs car. It is a 93 escort wagon auto trans and the 1.9 L engine. Has 78K miles.

This is the problem.

When accelerating and hitting appx the 20 mph mark (2nd gear) if you dont let up on the gas it will not shift and the engine will just rev. It used to do it once in a while and now it has been doing it more frequently. If you pull over and shut the car down for a minute or so then try driving again it is fine. I am at a total loss it shifts alright for the most part. Does this sound like some sort of electrical problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Ryan

chuck103 · August 2004

i have a 96 ford taurus with a transmission problem . when in overdrive and when you slow way down to turn either left or right the engine seems like you are back in neutral e.g. the engine just races and it acts like you are in neutral. this also happens when stopping for a light. however it never happens if you are in drive. its been that way for six months. the local shops want to rebuild the transmission for a minimum of $1250.00. I would'nt fix it but keeping it in drive uses too much gas.i keep thinking it could be an electrical problem but i'm not sure. anyone had this problem?

ryanbab · August 2004

the problem was a missing speed sensor

shtik80 · August 2004

I need to replace my speed sensors and dont know where they are located in order to do so. its not covered by the chilton manual. can anyone tell me where they are located and how to replace them?

alcan · August 2004

Year? Sedan, coupe, convertible?

shtik80 · August 2004

1996 sebring convertible, how do i replace the speed sensor ? thanx

alcan · August 2004

Just unscrew them from the front of the transaxle case. Why are you changing both?

maximaslipping · August 2004

The automatic transmission on my 1990 Nissan Maxima slips when it is shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, only when the car is cold (has just been started).
What are the likely causes?

Mr_Shiftright · August 2004

Might have to do with hard and old internal seals. You could try an oil and filter change for the transmission and perhaps a synthetic lubricant. It's worth a try. Otherwise, a "small parts rebuild" might be the only solution.

Slipping is usually not a good sign and it will get progressively worse, so best that you get proactive here and try something. Slipping=Heat=Damage.

isellhondas · August 2004

And it'll continue to get worse. You can follow the hosts suggestions or you can do what some of our customers do.

Make sure it's good and warmed up and not slipping and then trade it in!

Of course, nobody would EVER do that, right?

ryanfiala81 · August 2004

I posted a few months ago (post #1417) about my 3-4 hitch shifting into overdrive. I recently went on a test drive with the owner of a local trans shop, and he suspects that the transmission has some components from the model that debuted in '92, where the torque converter was not modulated. This, he believes, is what is causing my hard shifts from 3-4. I can't say I was surprised, since the people who sold me the car also had someone replace the warped intake plennum with one off of a Bonneville. Thankfully, the trans man says that my car should run forever despite this, and since having the fluid replaced and filter changed, the 3-4 does not hesitate any more, despite still being a tad harsh. If anyone would like to better explain to me what might have been done to my trans, I'd love to hear it!

drivehard1 · September 2004

I Just had my valve body replaced in our 1999 Olds silho, its at 77,000 miles. I haven't made as payment on it for 3 years, so I am not upset. However this seems to early in the mileage to be making such a repair. The total bill was around $1110.00. Have any other GM van owners had early trans failures.

alcan · September 2004

Code 1870 and/or torque converter clutch shudder?

Transmission Traumas?

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