Recently, when my 1999 Ford Taurus gets warm, the O/D (overdrive) light starts flashing, the speeedometer stops working, I lose power and the transmission lags like its doesn't know it's time to shift gears (like from 2nd to 3rd). I took it to the dealer, thinking it was covered under my extended warranty because it's affecting the transmission, but they said it was in the differential and would cost $496. I'd like to try to replace it myself, can anyone help?
The term "failures" must be defined. Most problems with these transmissions do not cause complete loss of drive and do not require rebuild.
Since their introduction the 4-speed FWD automatic series from Chrysler has undergone significant refinement. These transmissions originally started out as the ill-fated A604, the first adaptive, electronically controlled automatic, a good design that was rushed into production at the insistence of Lee Iacocca.
These 4-speed transmissions are unique in that they contain three sets of planetary gears and contain no bands or mechanical holding devices (sprags, roller clutches, etc). The ratios vary by platform but include a low, second, third (underdrive) and a overdrive (fourth). All ratios are supplied by five different clutch packs.
I seriously doubt that in-town shifting from third to fourth (overdrive) is a problem for Chrysler 4-speed FWD transmissions. Earlier versions of A604 had problems with a primary seal, computer shift schedules, and shift solenoids. But the biggest problem was the inappropriate use of Dexron-Mercon fluid and the transmission's design sophistication that caused many to be replaced or rebuilt by unknowledgeable or disreputable repair companies when the problem was actually very simple. Failure to observe the recommended transmission maintenance in mini-vans could guarantee a higher level of problems.
The "TE" replaced the A604 in the early 1990s and it too has continued to be refined. The "TE" is now fully adaptive and controlled electronically to a more higher degree than it's predecessors.
All current Chrysler automatic transmissions must use ATF+4. Dexron-Mercon will eventually kill them.
Vehicle Speed Sensor Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe. Unplug the VSS electrical connector. Remove the VSS protective heat shield. Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS. Lift the VSS out of the transaxle. Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.
To install:
Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary. Install the driven gear and the retainer. Place the VSS into the transaxle. Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm). Install the VSS protective heat shield. Attach the VSS electrical connector. Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe. Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable.
I test drove a 2000 Venture the other day and noticed that twice in 7 hours, when going from park to reverse, the rpm's increased but the Venture did not move. Sound major?
I have a 2001 Acura CL automatic, with 24,000 miles on it. When it had 1400 miles on it, the transmission just gave out. I could start the engine, however, it would not *go*. It was towed from my garage.
The dealer kept the car for two weeks replacing the transmission.
When that happened, I did not notice anything odd happening before the transmission gave out. I was thrilled to be driving my new car.
The second time it happened, I knew before something was wrong and tried to alert the dealer on two previous visits. I said the car seemed to *lurch* as it was driving....meaning the RPMs were reveing without my doing anything except driving along...usually about 35-40 and when the engine was cold. They said they could not replicate it so they could not fix anything.
Then when the transmission blew out the second time, I was merging onto a highway and the engine went out of control... the car started reveing very high and then very low. It was jerking and seemingly braking on it's own. All while I was trying to steer on to the highway and then figure out what the heck was happening. Then the car started going 85-90 on it's own. Then braking. I am lucky to be alive. I finally steered to the berm.
My car was at the dealer for three weeks this time. This happened when the car had 22,000 miles on it.
Now, the car is doing the reveing again. When the car is cold. The RPM's go up and then down...with me going 35-40 and even braking.
When I took my car to the Acura dealer the previous 2 times, they told me they could not replicate the *issue* and perhaps I was imagining it? Then the transmission dropped out.
I now have two payments on my lease left. I don't know what to do. Let the transmission drop out again, or take it in again and let them try to replicate it on a warm engine....which won't happen. It needs to be cold. They don't believe me and think I am a silly girl.
Amazing how OD can add value or perceived value just because the vehicle has something it probably never needed to begin with... I think you were right.. That OD is just an extra with a snazzy sounding name I think Bachman Turner popularized, but what do I know? I do know I've been trying to install a transmission now for well over a week. I got first the wrong size then one that wouldn't go into forward.. Now I'm putting in the 3rd in a week and I'm soooooo sick of transmissions I could just vomit bolts and any other vile thing I can imagine... Funny how the salvage yard can find fault always with the guys doing the actual work... According to them I've done EVERYTHING wrong and naturally they would only sell a perfectly good transmission to lil ol me.. Yeah, right, huh? I've installed other transmissions, but out of the blue I come down with a case of screw ups when I install one of thier trannys... Just once I would love to hear a junk yard say, "Sorry, we sold you crap (cleaned up) and here's your money back and we'll pay to install another free of charge..." I must be high or something to think of that, eh? Here's a clue...It ain't happening...not in my life anyway..
I have a 2002 SC1 with 48000 miles on it. I have had regular maintenace done as required. I took it in for a routine oil change only to be informed that my quill bearing seal is leaking and dripping fluid from my car. The tech stated if would be over $1300 to fix the seal in the transmission case housing.
First question is - Is this a ridiculous amount for this repair? The tech said it would take something like 13 hours!
2. The car is less than 3 years old, is this a common repair for cars this young?
3. Is this a repair common to Saturns or did I just get lemon?
I'm not exactly sure what a quill bearing is? I know almost nothing about engines or cars for that matter. They explained it as the seal between the transmission and the starter. It has apparently gone bad after only 48000 miles. They said it was due to heat build up and the rubber disenegrating. They also said that if I let it go too long my starter will flood and that I'll have to replace that too? I'm just not ready to part with my money if this is something that's not my fault!!! Any ideas?
My brother's '96 S10 Blazer 4x4 has (to my knowledge) not ever had a transmission fluid change. He bought the car with 40k, it now has ~98k. Last time I got the oil changed, the fluid was very low, so I just had it topped off. He says he wants to have the fluid changed, but I've heard some horror stories, basically to the effect that if you've neglected to have the trans serviced and the fluid changed on a regular basis, it's not a good idea to change it once the car is old and miley. This sounds counterintuitive to me, but still, I've heard/read this quite a few times. The trans generally shifts fine, though it's sometimes a bit jerky on shifts when it's not warmed up.
Make sure they replace the O ring seal for the filter neck. It's in the pump, a metal clad seal, and a ***** to remove, but if not replaced can cause a leak on the suction side of the pump.
got a second opinion, they said there is nothing wrong with my transmission. now what do i believe? i think i'll get third opinion just to make sure, but would the saturn dealership really be trying to take advantage of me?
ACURA 2003 3.2 TLS I bought this car brand new. Now has 33000 miles. Experienced a frightening lock-up at approx 30mph with family in the car. It threw us against the belts and was accompanied by a loud bang. All but me thought we hit something! Called acura california, they seemed indifferent. Dangerous car.
I took my car (03 Mercury Sable) over to a local transmission shop (with a good reputation) for an automatic transmission service. A couple of weeks later I have now noticed that the automatic transmission is seriously overfilled, maybe 2 quarts overfilled.
What would be the effects of driving a car with an overfilled transmission be ??
Could it pop some seals ?? The car drives fine (for now).
It can cause the rotating components to aerate the fluid. Usually causes fluid to be expelled from the vent when hot and could cause low oil pressure and slippage due to foam being pulled into the oil pump. Take it back and have them correct the fluid level. Btw, you did check it with the engine warmed up and trans in Park?
I checked the transmission (hot) with the engine ideling in park. I didn't notice any aeration on the dip stick (eg bubbles). The fluid level was WAY over the max level. Inches up the dip-stick from the cross-hatched area on the dip-stick.
The transmission did vent quite a bit of fluid on my driveway when it was cold. I backed the car from the garage to the driveway and shut it off. I walked out to the street to shuttle my other car into the garage and saw a huge puddle under the car with the overfilled transmission. This was the first sign that anything was wrong.
When you refer to a transmission venting - Do you mean out from the dip-stick tube or what. Please elaborate.
I have a 92 auto mazda protege LX with 95k miles on it. It ran strong. Sometime in the morning after startup, I shift to D from P, it hesitates and is reluctant to go and the HOLD light is flashing (It used to move foward if you shifted to D, which it should). If you press the gas, it goes, but the shifting is not so smooth. After you drive half a mile or so and it gets warm, all returns to normal. Ask a tranny shop to check the error code, computer reads bad speed sensor. But I guess the problem is more like the linkage between the shifter and the tranny. Any suggestions? How long it could go? I really don't want to throw too much money(rebuilt) on it. Thanks!
I think the fuel/air mixture is getting fouled up when my automatic transmission autamatically downshifts at about 32 mph. When this problem first started simply removing your foot from the gas pedal and then reapply pressure to the gas pedal fixed teh problem. Now, 5K miles after it started, you have to allow the car to slow and shift into 1st gear before the problem is fixed.
When the problem happens, the car sounds funny like it is running out of gas but does not surge the same as running out of gas. You can floor the car and maintain the same speed but you cannot speed up.
I think it could be a throttle position sensor but would like some other's ideas because money is limited.
I'm considering buying a used very clean 2001 Suburban 1500 that has 70k miles on it that runs great with the exception of a whining(sp?)noise that seems like it's coming from the rear of the SUV. I'm thinking maybe tranny or diferential ? Not sure. The owner says it's been making the noise for many months and the dealer couldnt seem to pinpoint the problem. Anyone got any ideas ? I'll probably pass on it just cause I don't need probs right off the bat...
94 Taurus transmission was junk. Servo piston cracked and you were stuck with $1500 repair bill. At 68K that was the last Ford I will ever buy as Ford gave the dealership no policy on the repair. Ford knew they had a problem since I think 91' but did nothing to fix it.
I had a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder with manual trans. I traded it in at 69+K miles. The rear end seemed to whine, and rather loudly. I thought the noise was loudest at highway speeds, but could never really characterize a pattern for it. Because it was limited slip, I changed the gear oil in it at 50K miles, using Mobil 1 synthetic. The noise did not abate, but the differential continued to operate properly, just with whining at speed. I suspect there was no impending failure getting ready to happen, but it worried me. I hope this helps a little bit, zardon.
I purchased this van Sep.23 with 28500 miles on it. It now has 30500 on it and three times this week it has had a problem with shifting from Park to Reverse. The van moves really slow and increasing the engine rpm has no effect. Then it might not do it again for days. The dealer says they want it to do it for them if I bring it in. I turned down purchasing a 2000 Venture for this same problem (we noticed it on test drive). My sister-in-law also has an 02 Silhouette and says that her van does this once in a while also. Any ideas on the cause?
Your automatic transmission is rather like a "controlled hemorrage" of pressurized fluids going into this or that channel, through valves. Sometimes there is a pressure problem (pump), sometimes a sticky valve that won't open the right "door" for applying hydraulic pressure at a certain component.
Then there are the electronic gizmos that regulate shifting.
I guess as long as you are still under warranty you can wait and see but really you should have the dealer make a record of your complaint. I'd tend to advise to bring the car in, have them write up the complaint, and even if they don't find anything, you are on record as having this problem.
Another thing you might do at your own expense is a transmission service (oil, filter, whatever)
What do you think about the do-it-yourselfer draining off trans fluid and replacing it with the very same amount of fresh, in the "new" automatic trannies that do not have a dipstick or the pipe it rides in?
I understand your reluctance and I guess you can't do any harm by replenishing a small amount, but it would be nice to get that debris out of there and also maximize the new fluid going in.
Years ago, I knew a guy with a '54 Chevy that had a persistant howl in the rear end. A old timer suggested he add about a cup of sawdust through the fill hole. I'm dead serious.
Figuring he had nothing to lose, my buddy took the advise and the howl was dramatically reduced!
I think he kept the car another year or so after that.
I am going to the dealer on Monday 11-8 for the driver side seat heater. I told them of the tranny problem. If they don't find a problem, and I'm sure they won't, will documenting it help me after the warranty is expired?
In the decades before the term Urban Legend, there were many Urban Legends. Sawdust in the tranny and/or rearend was one of them. I recall several versions, but one favorite was the guy that got it over on a car dealer by trading in a sawdusted vehicle on a new car. Supposedly it would last long enough for the trader to get away with the new car, leaving the hapless dealer to discover too late that he had been hoodwinked.
trany slips in reverse only, 320,000k smell burnt oil what can i do without changing trany work real good in other gears so now i d'ont back up other solution would be great sawdust in trany d'ont sound good to me can you help
jake when you lose a gear in an automatic, and with burnt fluid, I think you have to face the cold hard facts. You might try a used transmission as an economical way out of the dilemma.
98 QX4 93,000 miles with transmission problems. No longer under any warranty. Will shift into gear, but not without significant "marbles" sound when in Park and Neutral. Shop tech indicated that the radiator was not providing adequate cooling flow to fluid in tranny gearbox, thus creating some boil over and heating/warping/deteriorating some gears. Tech recommends full overhaul of transmission and adding a stacked plate transmission oil cooler. Unable to find any other posts about QX4 system design flaws or any trans problems. Do I just have an isolated case here or anyone else heard of such problems with high miles? Or maybe significant radiator problems?
Comments
Since their introduction the 4-speed FWD automatic series from Chrysler has undergone significant refinement. These transmissions originally started out as the ill-fated A604, the first adaptive, electronically controlled automatic, a good design that was rushed into production at the insistence of Lee Iacocca.
These 4-speed transmissions are unique in that they contain three sets of planetary gears and contain no bands or mechanical holding devices (sprags, roller clutches, etc). The ratios vary by platform but include a low, second, third (underdrive) and a overdrive (fourth). All ratios are supplied by five different clutch packs.
I seriously doubt that in-town shifting from third to fourth (overdrive) is a problem for Chrysler 4-speed FWD transmissions. Earlier versions of A604 had problems with a primary seal, computer shift schedules, and shift solenoids. But the biggest problem was the inappropriate use of Dexron-Mercon fluid and the transmission's design sophistication that caused many to be replaced or rebuilt by unknowledgeable or disreputable repair companies when the problem was actually very simple. Failure to observe the recommended transmission maintenance in mini-vans could guarantee a higher level of problems.
The "TE" replaced the A604 in the early 1990s and it too has continued to be refined. The "TE" is now fully adaptive and controlled electronically to a more higher degree than it's predecessors.
All current Chrysler automatic transmissions must use ATF+4. Dexron-Mercon will eventually kill them.
Best regards,
Dusty
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
Unplug the VSS electrical connector.
Remove the VSS protective heat shield.
Remove the retaining bolt from the VSS.
Lift the VSS out of the transaxle.
Remove the driven gear retainer and the drive gear.
To install:
Inspect the O-ring on the sensor and replace if necessary.
Install the driven gear and the retainer.
Place the VSS into the transaxle.
Tighten the retaining bolt to 36-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
Install the VSS protective heat shield.
Attach the VSS electrical connector.
Install the catalytic converter Y-pipe.
Lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable.
The dealer kept the car for two weeks replacing the transmission.
When that happened, I did not notice anything odd happening before the transmission gave out. I was thrilled to be driving my new car.
The second time it happened, I knew before something was wrong and tried to alert the dealer on two previous visits. I said the car seemed to *lurch* as it was driving....meaning the RPMs were reveing without my doing anything except driving along...usually about 35-40 and when the engine was cold. They said they could not replicate it so they could not fix anything.
Then when the transmission blew out the second time, I was merging onto a highway and the engine went out of control... the car started reveing very high and then very low. It was jerking and seemingly braking on it's own. All while I was trying to steer on to the highway and then figure out what the heck was happening. Then the car started going 85-90 on it's own. Then braking. I am lucky to be alive. I finally steered to the berm.
My car was at the dealer for three weeks this time. This happened when the car had 22,000 miles on it.
Now, the car is doing the reveing again. When the car is cold. The RPM's go up and then down...with me going 35-40 and even braking.
When I took my car to the Acura dealer the previous 2 times, they told me they could not replicate the *issue* and perhaps I was imagining it? Then the transmission dropped out.
I now have two payments on my lease left. I don't know what to do. Let the transmission drop out again, or take it in again and let them try to replicate it on a warm engine....which won't happen. It needs to be cold. They don't believe me and think I am a silly girl.
Any advice? Thanking you in advance.
I do know I've been trying to install a transmission now for well over a week. I got first the wrong size then one that wouldn't go into forward.. Now I'm putting in the 3rd in a week and I'm soooooo sick of transmissions I could just vomit bolts and any other vile thing I can imagine...
Funny how the salvage yard can find fault always with the guys doing the actual work... According to them I've done EVERYTHING wrong and naturally they would only sell a perfectly good transmission to lil ol me.. Yeah, right, huh? I've installed other transmissions, but out of the blue I come down with a case of screw ups when I install one of thier trannys...
Just once I would love to hear a junk yard say, "Sorry, we sold you crap (cleaned up) and here's your money back and we'll pay to install another free of charge..."
I must be high or something to think of that, eh?
Here's a clue...It ain't happening...not in my life anyway..
First question is - Is this a ridiculous amount for this repair? The tech said it would take something like 13 hours!
2. The car is less than 3 years old, is this a common repair for cars this young?
3. Is this a repair common to Saturns or did I just get lemon?
ugh, any help would be appreciated!
Any opinions or advice would be welcome!
What would be the effects of driving a car with an overfilled transmission be ??
Could it pop some seals ?? The car drives fine (for now).
The transmission did vent quite a bit of fluid on my driveway when it was cold. I backed the car from the garage to the driveway and shut it off. I walked out to the street to shuttle my other car into the garage and saw a huge puddle under the car with the overfilled transmission. This was the first sign that anything was wrong.
When you refer to a transmission venting - Do you mean out from the dip-stick tube or what. Please elaborate.
When the problem happens, the car sounds funny like it is running out of gas but does not surge the same as running out of gas. You can floor the car and maintain the same speed but you cannot speed up.
I think it could be a throttle position sensor but would like some other's ideas because money is limited.
dave
I'll probably pass on it just cause I don't need probs right off the bat...
Park to Reverse. The van moves really slow and increasing the engine rpm has no effect. Then it might not do it again for days. The dealer says they want it to do it for them if I bring it in. I turned down purchasing a 2000 Venture for this same problem (we noticed it on test drive). My sister-in-law also has an 02 Silhouette and says that her van does this once in a while also. Any ideas on the cause?
Post a note in toomanyfumes "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" Nov 6, 2004 12:50am
and alcan there may be able to tell you where to start. He's helped me several times now.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Then there are the electronic gizmos that regulate shifting.
I guess as long as you are still under warranty you can wait and see but really you should have the dealer make a record of your complaint. I'd tend to advise to bring the car in, have them write up the complaint, and even if they don't find anything, you are on record as having this problem.
Another thing you might do at your own expense is a transmission service (oil, filter, whatever)
Years ago, I knew a guy with a '54 Chevy that had a persistant howl in the rear end. A old timer suggested he add about a cup of sawdust through the fill hole. I'm dead serious.
Figuring he had nothing to lose, my buddy took the advise and the howl was dramatically reduced!
I think he kept the car another year or so after that.
RE: Sawdust....no, don't do that under any circumstances.
I hope nobody here tries that since I can't imagine the havoc that would wreck on a modern transaxle.
Forgot about the banana peel one!
Seriously, the sawdust really worked on that old Chevy. The howl really went away. Don't know the long term effects though.
smell burnt oil
what can i do without changing trany
work real good in other gears
so now i d'ont back up
other solution would be great
sawdust in trany d'ont sound good to me
can you help