Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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lbrown1-- In your situation, I'd take a "philosophical" approach. With the 2005 cars now coming out, you have a 130K mile car that is seven model years old. The dealer says only a new transmission will change the behavior of the car. Independents told you that the transmission checks out okay. I would drive it until the transmission gives out, or the car dies from some other cause. Then, I'd get another car. The only alternative I would consider is to go get the next car now, and trade in the 1998. I like my second suggestion the best...
But sure, get a second opinion. Did anyone find debris in the transmission, or do some testing and get some readings?
The only way I can think to connect the two symptoms (and they may not be connected at all, but two separate problems) is that your engine is missing on one cylinder or running erratically at times. When was your last tune up?
Otherwise, the two problems probably aren't connected, and I'd look for engine troubles as well as possibly a worn transmission mount, bad u-joint in the driveshaft, things like that.
Trans mainline pressure is controlled by the main pressure regulator, which in turn is controlled by the pressure control solenoid. The powertrain control module (PCM) varies current flow through the solenoid to achieve desired line pressure based on inputs from several sensors. Primary inputs are throttle position sensor and manifold absolute pressure sensor. Secondary inputs include engine coolant temp and trans oil temp. Increasing current flow through the solenoid reduces line pressure, decreasing current flow raises pressure. Default or failsafe, in the event that the solenoid fails electrically or control is lost, is zero current flow and maximum line pressure.
Diagnosis procedure:
install a scan tool and monitor inputs to the PCM. If all are ok, install a line pressure gauge on the trans and see what happens when the PCM commands high line pressure, then turn on the lights and look for any change in any inputs. If the PCM is still commanding high line pressure, suspect a defective pressure control solenoid or associated wiring. If the PCM commands low line pressure (will cause the trans to slip under load), look for a skewed sensor input. If all are within normal parameters, suspect a defective PCM. This is all assuming there are no incorrectly installed aftermarket electrical devices.
If you are interested and willing to be interviewed on camera - please email sylvia@edmunds.com TODAY with your daytime contact info and city/state.
Thanks!
Thanks!
I am suggesting anyone with problems to call the HOnda representative. If there are problems that can cause a wreck, injury, or death you should contact NHTSA. If NHTSA receives similar complaints and it finds that a safety defect exists in a group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy campaign. They do not get involved your problems with Honda, but it brings attention to the rising issues with this problem.
When cold, our 1993 Camry does not shift into O/D until driven at least 50 mph for 1/2 mile or so. It has done this since new. When warm, it'll shift into O/D at 35 mph.
However if you have noticed a change in behavior or if the car simply will not shift into O/D for a prolonged period of time you may have a problem. Changing the fluid may be a reasonable starting point, particularly if it looks dirty.
Frustrated in Georgia
At this point, I have had the car looked at by a VW dealership. They changed some of the fluid (as needed for checking the fluid level) and determined that the fluid level was good, and no codes are showing up on their diagnostic computer. So, they are suggesting that I have the transmission serviced ($300) to see if that will fix the problem, otherwise I'm looking at $3100 for a new transmission. But if the transmission is bad, I prefer to trade or sell the car rather than pay the money for the new tranny, so my question is, is it worth a $300 gamble to have the tranmission serviced? Can a simple servicing (replacing filter and fluid) fix a problem like my car is having? Help!
I'm not sure what you mean by "dropping out of drive". Does the tachometer actually jump up to a higher rpm all by itself, or do you just mean that it slips as you give it gas? If it actually dropped out of drive, it would stay in neutral. I rather doubt you are actually in neutral.
John in Georgia
You might check and see if REDLINE makes a product that can be added to the transmission (NOT a sealer, don't do that) to free things up.
You know, 156K is really all a transmission was supposed to give you in this life. It has really done its job so anything you get at this point is gravy. You shouldn't feel like this is abnormal or bad luck, it isn't.
Run it for a while, it might improve!
John
http://www.redlineoil.com
Jerry
Ok.. Here is my problem. First of all, I am a female, and I do not know alot about cars, so I feel that I am being taken advantage of, and I need someone's help!!!
In July 2003 my 91 Mazda 323 had the transmission replaced. The warranty was 10,000 km or One year. As soon as I got the car back I noticed that it accelerated weird. The car was taken back in, and I was told that the speed sensor was adjusted. It seemed to drive ok once that was done. The car was not driven at all during the following year because I attended University in another province. I came back in Summer 2003, drove the car approximately 10,000 km (including a trip from Calgary-Guelph 4,000km). The car is now with me in Guelph. The repairs were done in Calgary. I was experiencing the same accelerating problems as before (seemed like the car was slipping out of gear), and this time it sounded Worse. I took the car in, and they told me that it sounded like a transmission problem. They removed the transmission and discovered that the transmission needs to be replaced, but they could not speculate what happened to it. The car is being repair right now, but I am extremely frustrated with the people who initially fixed the car. The Mechanic who has the car right now is speculating that there could have been a flaw in some part of the transmission, but he can not pinpoint it. How is it that the car can need a new transmission already? It has been just over One year!? Even though the warranty says 10,000 KM or One Year, is there any loophole? It just seems ridiculous that I spent 2,000 dollars on a transmission, only to shell out another 2,000 for another one. Does anyone have any advice? Do I have a claim against the original mechanic? I know that the warranty is One year or 10,000 KM. But I took the car in BEFORE the year was up because I was experiencing problems.. I am just at a loss for words.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated,
oh yah, what about if im driving on the interstate, what gear?
infact our university does offer a free legal resource room!
Thanks again,
My dealer suggested flush at 30k miles. The car manual says - transmission service at 50k miles for severe conditions, after 100k for normal. The dealer told me that there is no need in dropping the pan, even while I would prefer to replace filter. When flushing, mechanic found that the old fluid is dirty - and dropped the pan. Flush costs only $89; the full transmission service, including changing filter in addition to flush, costs about twice more.
You might check and see if your particular car has a temperature switch that controls dropping into overdrive...on some cars you can't do that while the engine is below a certain temperature.
The secret to making an automatic transmission last a long time is to keep it COOL and CLEAN!
I can't do much about your present problem, other than suggest you try the legal route, but try to remember this post in the future. This may help you and others in the future avoid a lot of problems.
[gregtrange] The best way to service an automatic transmission is to FLUSH the old fluid
from the transmission, AND pull the pan, replace the filter with a new one, clean and replace the pan, fill with new fluid.
Flushing the transmission without pulling the pan and changing the filter is just about useless.
Pulling the pan and changing the filter without flushing the old fluid out is just about as useless.
I flush mine myself, 2 cases of ATF=$48, Filter & gasket=$12. It cost me about $60 and 2 hours of my time.
Hope this helps,
Good Luck,
E.D.
> & gasket=$12. It cost me about $60 and 2 hours
> of my time.
CAn you tell me how you did a flush by yourself?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,