Synthetic motor oil

ruking1 · February 2004

I think in truth there has been a lot of little advances. For example, I had a Hitler's revenge 1970 VW Beetle that I ran for app 250k miles on two cluthes and 3k oil changes (no oil filters)

,

The oils available in 1969-1978 were absolute crap compared to today's brews. I estimate I changed the oil 84-90 times in 250k. With the new TDI engine at 550k, I am on target to change it 37 times!!! For the same mileage 250k, I am on target to change it 17 times. Needless to say I have less waste stream.

chispas · February 2004

I think you'll make it !!!

Have they gotten that coil pack problem solved ??

Bosch is hurting lots of owners like you....

Go gettum !!!

shipo · February 2004

Maybe I missed where RuKing1 was driving an Audi or VW with a gasoline fired engine, but there certainly are no coil packs on a TDI that I know of.

Best Regards,
Shipo

ruking1 · February 2004

NO, the beauty of the TDI is no coil pack, no plugs.

I have to change 2 rubber bands at 100k and recalibrate!

MAF's are a known problem area but fed emissions law is good for 100k or 10 years.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2004

The problem with listening to "old timers" about what worked for them is that they were used to very primitive engines that could tolerate all kinds of experimentation. They had low compression, usually vast machining clearances, and about 3 moving parts inside.

Nowadays with modern precision machinery you'd best be careful what you put into an engine, transmission or a fuel tank.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2004

yes, we're having a little bug with that. It's being worked on.

My e-mail is:

mr_shiftright@edmunds.com

Please continue your talk. I'll take care of any "problems" with the board! Thanks for your support and cooperation.

Shifty the Host

highender · March 2004

hello.....thanks for the CPB acronym... :-)

on the MMO....I have been using it for years...but do not know if it is actually working, or just extra stuff to burn ? I like it and still am working on another bottle ... :-)

maybe it is just their proprietary blend of petroleum distillates...

I used to work for an independent petroleum consultant co.....and we tested all sorts of gas and gas products....

did you know that we import a light yellow colored gas with 50 octane from China ? And all the gas companies would blend it with toluene and benzene and others to bring up the octane. They all had their own type iof injector cleaner.....and all the gas companies do transfer gasoline between their refineries....and the injector cleaners are added at the last step before delivery to end consumers.....

so it may be possible that MMO is useful , as much as any other companies' product....

BTW, all gas is traded between gas companies, and each batch is different, like any other mass produced but heterogenous product....

IMO, the engines can take a lot, as long as the residues, octane numbers, and other parameters are close.....

highender · March 2004

read it from somewhere....CPB..

lets give the prize to armtdm .. 1 dozen Krispy Kreme ..... :-)

OK, so lets use it ...the term...CPB

armtdm · March 2004

Glazed, the store on W. Broad St, in Ric, Va will be fine for the pick up.

Not a new planet but it will do at my age.

JTO · March 2004

Hi, I just bought a couple jugs of Wal Marts full synthetic oil (for higher mileage engines). Now I know good old Sam didn't refine oil, but who makes this stuff? Is it worth the $10.47 per 5qts?
I plan on using it in a high mileage jeep (215k miles!). I've always used synthetic oils, but I'm hoping not to 'find' the leaks in this engine...... we'll see.

dudleyr · March 2004

I use the wal-mart stuff, and it seems fine so far - hard to beat the price.

Maybe the oil is cleaning up some black gunk in your engine, and it is suspended in the oil. Also what is the temp? Oil can look honey colered when hot, but near black when cold.

jlemole · March 2004

My Mobil1 looks just like any other used oil when it comes out, so I don't think you can judge on the color alone. Wait for your UAO numbers, and you'll know for sure if there are any issues or problems.

Jon

JTO · March 2004

romanram, Even if it is hydrocracked wouldn't it be better then regular old dino oil? For $10.47 that's what I would have paid for the Castrol. They are both advertised for high mileage engines (seal conditioners I guess).

loudog2 · March 2004

I have a new 2004 toyota 4runner with 2000 miles on it. I always change the oil on my new autos at 2000 miles(get rid of metal shavings, if there is any). Should I wait for the engine to break in a little before changing to synthetic. I do a lot of short distance stop and go driving.

pulgo · March 2004

You can safely swith to synthetic anytime. Many cars come from the factory with synthetic. Just make sure that you use a REAL synthetic, meaning Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline or even CAstrol. If you use Castrol make sure you buy the German made variety (back should say made in Germany).

If you go with the other so called synthetics you get a good product but will not be able to go to extended drains (more than 5k miles).

I use Amsoil most of the time (12 to 15K between changes) or Mobil 1 (10k miles). Oil analysis has shown, depending on the tipe of vehicle, climate, driving style, sump volume, filtering, etc, that up to 25k miles is possible between changes. The most I have gone is 18k with no problem and excellent analysis results.

wayne1 · March 2004

I am an automotive instructor at a vocational high school with over 30 years of automotive experience, todays engines DO NOT need to be broken in for 5,000 miles. What you should do is change the oil and filter at the first 1,000 miles using dino oil. When the second 1,000 miles roll around now you can use a synthetic oil. Make sure it's a good quality 100% synthetic. I myself have been using Amsoil for years with excellent results.

loudog2 · March 2004

thank you for the help. I already have six quarts of mobil 1 5-30 and a k&n oil filter in the garage. I looked for the amsoil, but I can't find anybody who sells it around here.

ruking1 · March 2004

I would probably buy Amsoil, but Mobil One is more commonly available. Amsoil locally sells for something like 7.20 a quart vs Mobil One at 4-5 dollars a quart.

shipo · March 2004

Ummm, some of us have already stepped up to 0W-40 Mobil-1. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

wayne1 · March 2004

If anyone wants to use Amsoil, you can always order on line.

loudog2 · April 2004

I admit I don't know a lot about oil. So I have a question. What is the difference between the amsoil 5-30 synthetic and the 0-30 synthetic. I see that it is about $3 more per quart. Would I see any benefits in my 2004 toyota 4-runner v6 if I switched. I do a lot of short distance driving, but not a lot of off-roading. Toyota says to use 5-30 only. Someone else said I could use both.

bigdadi118 · April 2004

I don't understand why Mazda does not recommend to use synthetic oils.

Mazda said their engines were not tested in synthetic oils.

The Mazda email reply even warns that synthetic oil may void bumper-2-bumper warranty.

ruking1 · April 2004

And the truth also is they probably do not want to tell you why.

roper2 · April 2004

The owners manual I have from dodge says syn.oil is ok as long as you follow the correct change intervils.

czar58 · April 2004

I've seen some discussion on Wally World synthetic. Has anyone heard who is making it? Bubba at the local emporium said he thought it was Penzoil - I'm just trying to find out whether it's Mobil like syn or Castrol like syn and what the additive pack is like. Anyone ? Thanks

csandste · April 2004

http://www.wd-wpp.com/

Click on the Mag-1 logo on the top of the page and you can get to the spec sheets. SuperTech and Sears Spectrum are identical to these. Although a tech at Warren indicated to a caller on bobistheoilguy that it was group IV, most thinking is that it's group III.

Pre-SL oils were made by Specialty Petroleum, a company that was acquired by Quaker State before that company was acquired by Pennzoil to Shell, etcetc. Although some Wally World employees believe differently since there was QS labeling on these bottles, the product was never identical to Quaker State.

roper2 · April 2004

Romanram I just happened to see it ,no big deal.You have a lot of interesting articles in here.

czar58 · April 2004

Thanks all - I think I'll stick with my M1 until I get some definitive info - testing or otherwise. Price is mighty appealing but sometimes you get what you pay for.

csandste · April 2004

1. They don't crack base stocks.
2. All additives (even big companies) come from a handful of companies.
3. I think they do blend their own oils, at least they have chemists, etc. on staff. In other words they're not just taking a bunch of bulk oil that doesn't sell and packaging it.
4. You're right, I doubt if they're the paragon of consistancy. In the case of Warren, their 5w30 includes moly, I don't think their 10w30 does-- or maybe it does now but didn't used to. If that bothers you I'd look elsewhere.

Wal-Mart owns the brand name, not the blending plant so the SM oil might be from a different source entirely. Again, I choose ST because I get a bottled oil changed (sort of) by people who unlike Jiffy Lube don't try to sell me a battery. There is a small chance that the bulk, name brand oil is actually old SA rated crap that the manager's brother is bootlegging. Not going to happen with Warren.

micweb · April 2004

Chevron's website even advertises available base stocks they will sell to blenders.

They provide the oil, and sometimes additive packages, in bulk, the blenders package and ship it.

What most people don't know is that gasoline is pretty much the same way...according to the NY Times it is all "bulk" but with different additive packages depending on the reseller (Mobil, Chevron, Rotten Robbie etc.). There are minimum Federal standards for "cleanliness" i.e. the ability to keep injectors clean, but Chevron is supposed to be well above the minimum. Me, I use cheaper Arco but run Supertech gas cleaner through every oil change ($1.78 for the stronger stuff in the black bottle from Wally World).

ruking1 · April 2004

Given what folks are saying; given the standards you are comfortable with, i.e., SL/SJ or in diesel CI-4, buy on price. I say this if one is not predisposed for a whole host of reasons to buy group IV PAO base oils, hydrocracked group III with the other so called designation of "synthetic" will also come within standards.

csandste · April 2004

they reported that a number of "brand name" oils, Shell for one-- varied geographically in different parts of the country. It seems to me that at least one of the "big four" oils--PZ,QS,Castrol, Valvoline-- suffered from the same inconsistancy.

The big deal right now on bobistheoilguy is differentiating regular Castrol Syntec from German Castrol Syntec-- so consistancy isn't always there with any supplier.

ruking1 · April 2004

The standards have gone from SJ to SL from 1995 to 2004. And to CI-4 for diesel. I would bet a dollar to a Krispy Kreme that the most consistent thing is probably still inconsistency:(

roper2 · April 2004

That is why I do a oil@filter change at 5k or less.

danpf1 · April 2004

Has any one tried using synthetics in their automatic trans, transfer and differentials? I am thinking of using royal purple synthetics in my 2001 Pathfinder and 1998 CR-V. Any information would be helpful, thanks.

div2 · April 2004

As long as the synthetics meet Nissan standards you should not have any problem. I ran all Mobil 1 Lubricants in my 1993 Pathfinder and at 140000 miles it's still going strong with a new owner. Same story for my 1999 Jeep TJ, the only exception being the Aisin-Warner MT, which calls for a proprietary synchromesh fluid.

armtdm · April 2004

are you speaking of using synthetic engine oil in the automatic transmission or in general using synthetic gear oils and ATF fluids.?

I have uysed both synthetic gear oils and the ATF and IMO, they outperform the petroleum based lubricants.

danpf1 · April 2004

I use royal purple in the engine of both suv's, but I would like to use synthetics fluids in the trans and the transfer case and the differentials. Is this possible.

ruking1 · April 2004

The answer is yes. I have two vehicles in which the engine, transmission, and differential oils are synthetic. There are of course benefits and disadvantages. Benefits are usually 1. higher temperature and lower temperature resistance. 2. Higher resistance to sludging. 3. Ability to extend change intervals 4. In some cases mpg is better 5 operation is smoother

One disadvantage can be the higher up front cost.

danpf1 · April 2004

Thanks for all the replies. I have decided to use synthetic ATF, Syncromax transfer case fluid and max gear 75w90 differential oil, all synthetics. I will let you know how it works out.

div2 · April 2004

I ALWAYS use the type of lubricant the manufacturer specifies, I simply use a synthetic equivalent.

snarks · May 2004

Not sure if this in violation of anything but I ran across this for free synthetic oil (6 quarts) of Valvoline.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/rebates/rebate_details.asp?rebatei- d=18

Mr_Shiftright · May 2004

looks okay, just product info.

snarks · May 2004

They must have pulled the rebate for a free case of Valvoline Synthetic, it now links to their regular website. Such is life....

gregtrang · June 2004

What is the best oil filter to use when using 5W-30 synthetic motor oil? If there is a best, is there a independent study such as Consumer Reports that I can go to to see the proof?

yurakm · June 2004

Do not know which is best, but Pure One is good enough, and is easy available - for example, at Pep Boys @about $6. Pure One is a premium brand of Puralator.

Some of other filters with good reputation are Mobil 1, and premium brand of Delphi.

yurakm · June 2004

Sorry, must be Delco (ACDelco), not Delphi.

snarks · June 2004

Unfortunately no current science based studies on this.

micweb · June 2004

Frams are considered bottom of the totem pole due to their cardboard endcaps and inexpensive anti-drainback construction.

Champion Labs (Supertech at Walmart, STP and Bosch at Autozone) are considered well made.

Purolator, AC Delco, some Motoraft, WIX, Napa Gold, and Mobil 1 are considered better than average.

Generally, the manufacturer's oil filter line should be good for the manufacturer's maximum stated drain interval (5,000 for Ford, 6,000 for Chrysler/Dodge, 10,000 for VW, Honda, and Acura) but my suspicion is they are no better than the parts store oil filters. However, I believe you would be protected under the filter or car manufacturer's warranty if a car maker's oil filter failed within the maximum stated drain interval.

Keep in mind that stated drain intervals have a time component, usually one year or less, so if you aren't hitting your miles, you need a change based on time instead. I don't think time is that critical, but it does affect your warranty.

Don't go beyond the manufacturer's stated drain interval on the oil, or you lose your warranty or potential "good will" fix. Possibly Amsoil might back you up if you have a claim and are within an Amsoil extended change period, but I'd check around on the 'net before relying on that. I don't know whether the Amsoil warranty is limited to parts replacement (the bad filter) or covers damage to your engine; or even if Amsoil makes filters...

ruking1 · June 2004

One of my car's stated drain interval (computer calculated but) is averaging 15,000 miles. One other car's stated drain interval is 10,000 miles. Both of course indicate or highly recommend synthetic oil.

Synthetic motor oil

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy