I believe that the QC has an available beg extender (please correct me if I am wrong). My question is whether the bed extender is also available for non-QC Dakotas. Just wondering. Thanks...
The bed extender is nothing more than 3 aluminum tubes connected together with some plastic. It uses two existing screws in the tailgate area to mount. It will fit equally well on any of the Dakota models.
The accesories glossy proganda folder from Dodge does not include a price or part number. I saw one on a truck at the dealer a couple of weeks ago and the price was about $150 on the window sticker.
Between rain storms this weekend, I'll search around for a conduit to run the Catz light wiring into the cab interior. Upgrading to a factory light switch isn't going to happen. There's got to be a way without spending more money.
Do like the way these lights look. When off, they look like that combination of mottled yellow and purple you see on "aged" chromed motorcycle exhaust pipes. When on, the 55W bulbs blaze.
As far as being flexible and looking great.Part #42A in the 2000 Dakota accessories catalog.They list for $12.00 a pair.Also very simple to install.They are the ones with the rams head logo.
I have the Mopar sill guards on my Quad also,part #50(same catalog)they look and fit great.List for$31.00 for the Quad.Very easy to install.
My color scheme: Lt. Driftwood / SLT, required me to go with the "non-red ram's head logo" plain black mud flaps. Hardest part of the installation was getting them even relative from front wheels to the back wheels. Once I got that (started on the passenger side so if I screwed up I wouldn't obsess and focus on the flaw every time I'd walk up to get in it) rest was easy.
Do have to have an angled screw driver / nut driver device unless you take off the wheels.
Sill guard installation instructions read harder than it really is. Both the mud flaps and sill guards are worth the money.
From time to time I've asked what people are doing for roof racks. Many of us Quad owners are outdoors types and have other "toys" that we would like to get to the mountains and streams, which require the roof rack.
I've read over tjump, jones27, teckno, and myersed's discussion but I desire more info on a rack system that I'll be able to carry either two canoes side by side or one canoe and one kayak. I'm concerned with putting two aluminum canoes (80# each) on the roof sheet metal siting on four little feet. Also concerned with the effect of the clips on the door's weather striping. I want to make sure what I do is right since some solutions require drilling holes in the roof to mount a rail. Finally, I don't want a "wimpy" system that moves around or worst yet fails and results in damage to the truck and/or allows the canoes to "take off" causing an accident.
I've looked in the MOPAR accessory book, I've looked at the Thule and Yakima catalogs / websites, even called Thule once. Still don't feel like I can make that painful $200-$350 decision. Advice / Experience Please.
Spike- For big canoes, you have a few choices. 1.You can do the Yakimas and trust the literature. 2. You can put on a shell/cap/topper, mount artificial raingutters to that, and do either Yakima or Thule (or any other) simple rack which attaches to raingutters. This is what I use for either many surfboards, 2 sea kayaks, up to 5 river kayaks, one biiiig lake canoe, lumber/plywood (be sane) etc. This is the 4th truck I've used like this and have never had a roof/rack/equipment failure, plus you get a dry space for your stuff or your dog. You can remove the racks for better MPG when you're not using them. 3. The Mirage rack is very nice if you don't want a shell or a permanent rack. Looks like a over-bed rack, but fold up or removes when not in use. Check www.cabelas.com 4. For serious carrying, there is really nothing better than a lumber rack. A steel tube, permanently mounted rack will have an over-cab section to protect your truck, can easily carry loads up to 20 feet long, and is probably rated up to 400 lb or so. The drawbacks are permanent mounting and wind resistance. Price is comparable to Yakima or Thule. They make these for trucks with or without camper shells. I put them on my work trucks and sometimes have them out on the weekends (don't tell the IRS). They also buy you the benefit of the doubt if you have to double-park...
In one of the other dakota forums, I mentioned a ladder rack that is pretty decent. It would only hold one canoe, but two racks would do what you need. The big advantage is that they are easily removed and stored for non-hauling purposes. You ought to check out the company.
Thanks for the feedback. bsprax - I'll look at the Mirage and cabelas. Was thinking of mounting those fake rain gutter cleats to the roof of the Quad and then I could use my existing rack, which is a heavy-duty Grummans.
steve234 - rather than me trying to find your old posting and the ladder rack company, could you just post it again?
I wa looking at a site I found on 'Askjeeves' last night and I came across a VERY strange looking and unusual cover. The name escapes me - I'll retrace my steps and find it - but here's the details:
Powder coated steel topper (black) 'Split' down the middle (left/right sides) Opens like a gullwing for access to either side Lockable Holds weight on top very well
The trick parts: Opens in the middle like upward swinging bar doors And folds upwards to create 'sides' for tall stuff to fit between (in the bed) Works as a double (two) canoe or kayak holder Works as a ladder or other... holder Says it holds up quite well - should for $600-700
I'd be interested in looking at the engineering that it took to make it but its way out of my price range. So far the Yakima Q-Tower sounds most promising but I'd like to hear from experienced end-users. Wonder if I could use a six (6) aero-foot x three (3) cross bar set-up to add that extra level of strength and security? I'm still concerned with an "in-bed over-cab" frame since the Quad bed is shorter than most existing applications of that approach.
I have seen a couple posts here about covers. Anybody got any good recommendations? Am I dreaming thinking that I will not have leaks? I am leaning towards the "Access rollup cover" as suggested by someone here.
i installed the access rollup cover on my 2000 quad last week. looks fine as long as you don't mind black. it isn't and doesn't promise to be waterproof but should keep things reasonably dry under most circumstances. living in the texas drought i haven't had a chance to test it except at the car wash and there was about a cupfull of water inside the bed after washing the first time. only complaint is that the lock mechanism is defective on mine in that i have found it unlatched twice in the first week even the safety latches worked themselves loose. i called the manusfacturer today and they are sending me replacements for the latch and the safety latches both. will let you know if this fixes the problem.
Has anyone installed the Mopar Gullwing Tonneau, and if so, are you happy, displeased or otherwise. I'm thinking of installing one when my QC arrives. Thanks in advance.
Has anyone purchased a 2001 dakota 2wd with 2-tone paint (siver bottom) been able to get the siver fender flares also? My dealer says he can't get the silver flares but I can't understand why because he has a couple of 2001 4wd Dakotas with the siver flares.
I have a 2000 Dakota QC Patriot Blue Tire and Handling, Wheel Flares, Tinted Windows, SLT & SLT plus, 2WD.
I installed an A.R.E. LSII Cover: Boltless- install design. HD latching system, excellent warranty. I ordered it with thier spoiler. Looks Tuff, get lots of looks. If your truck has the small wheels I'd think twice about the wing though.
Since there were no body changes for the 2001, the '97-00 fender flares should work just as well. The only problem is the color. I ordered fender flares for my '00 with the two tone package. During '00, the two tone silver color is known as Light Driftwood. Dealer parts said would be here in 2 days. Took about 10 days.
My guess is that he can get fender flares, just not already painted in the color you want. You can find the two tone paint code on the driver door. On the bottom right corner of the sticker is TRM and then some 3 letter code. This is the paint code you need when you order your fender flares.
You might try calling another dealer to see if they are more willing to order parts for you. Seems there was a post a long time ago about ordering the fender flares off the net below dealer cost. Someone who is better at searching the forum might be able to find it for you.
If I remember right, the fender flares are factory installed in a package on 4wd. It sounds like the silver color has not been made available yet as a accessory part, but probably will be soon. If you are comfortable with it, you might make an arrangement with your dealer to be installed later. I doubt that it will be too long before they are available since it is probably the top dealer installed accessory.
I do plan on installing the gulwing in spite of the price. I like the functionallity it provides and I don't see much LARGE hauling needs that would reguire me to remove it. It appears perfect for my needs. I plan on having a spray in under rail liner by perma-tech. My concern was the water and locking. My 2 questions are:
Can the tailgate open without unlocking the gulwing?
How much modification/sealing is needed to stop most/all water from entering?
I have been surfing the net for a grill guard. So far I like the Westin Sportsman grille guard for the Dakota. Anyone have any comments positive or negative on this product. Also, any recomendations on getting the best price. Thanks.
Before you buy a gullwing I would at least recommend you look at the LSII. Boltless design. 5 minutes and its off! The tailgate cannot be lowered. The locking mechanism is 2 heavy duty rods not a piece of wire. Warranty rocks, lifetime on paint. Well built too. I saw a guy lay his cover on the ground and drive his truck on it! It did not crack or break it. Lot of other great features too.
kmenne - the 'gullwing' everybody refers to is the factory (Daimler / Chrysler OEM) hard cover that sits on top of the bed rails - like a usual one piece lid - and has 3 separate lids. The first two open up front like a regular cross bed style of tool box (and about that size), and the third lid opens like a regular hard lid but is hinged at about 1/3 of the way back from the front of the lid - where the front two (which open sideways) stop - and goes all the way to the rear. All three have locks & struts (the recall problem), and they each seal pretty well. The reason I chose it was workability. It has more openings and I can work from the side of my truck when I'm getting in and out a lot. It also is VASTLY superior to a one piece lid in high winds (like here in W TX). Whew! Just go to your dealer and get a 'red' accessory catalog from where you find the new model vehicle catalogs in the showroom in those little stands with the 'tiered' racks. If Grand Ledge is anywhere near Detroit I'd opt for the Total Access type of cover for security. ;-)
bobyt876 - Mine won't. You'll need to 'pop' the rear lock loose to get the tailgate down. It's part of the security deal you get with this type of cover. As for water 'proofing': I'd suggest using side rail (sit on top) protectors available from lots of sources (most have been discussed here at some point) first. That's assuming you're using the factory (or similar like the Penda) bed liner. These are under rail except at the front of the bed and the tailgate - both of these areas are somewhat covered by a thick vinyl overlap. Add the side rail protectors (up on top) and you've got a (more) level surface to install a cover. That'll help a bunch. Or just get an over-the-rail liner (which I'm not sure anyone's shipping - yet). Then (in the daylight hours) just crawl in the bed with the cover on and look for light (gaps) that will let water in. Use silicone caulk or something easy to remove (but water proof) later on and you're all set. Caveat: don't pull the cover down (just have a helper handy) if the tailgate's up (locked) or you might be locked in. That'd be stinky. %-)=
The 'recall' was really a hold-up of production. The covers out there should be OK.
And in response to renegade69's comments: The main thing I like best about the one piece lids - especially the A.R.E. products - is that they LOOK the best (in my opinion) of anything you can put next to the really glossy finishes of the Quad. They don't have wrinkle or line one, and their struts are much better (again, IMO) than the OEM lid. They should be anyway, as they have a larger surface area and weight to lift. Only reason to avoid the glossy look is if you have nerfs, grill guards, etc. that are 'flat' finished and would look more balanced with a regular tonneau, fold - a - cover or roll - type with a flat finish. But then again you could paint the A.R.E. with a flat black. Hmmm... now I'M getting interested in one.
victx - Manik is a fabulous product. So is WAAG - but I think more expensive than Manik or Westin.
Oh, and BTW - if you want to use a tonneau, lid or other cover over a SPRAYED IN liner, you won't have the weird top fit issues I described above; you're already 'flush.' ;-)
Have had one since the getgo and like it. I beieve it is the only one out there that matches the curves of the Dak's grille. Am always getting asked about it.
Has nay one had any experience with the above chips? I contacted a dealer and was quoted $329 for the Mopar chip and they claimed only about 8 hp increase. The salesman inferred that it was not worth the price. I tend to agree. Is he correct? Thanks.
I noticed that about my 01. I think more and more manufacturers are making it more difficult for the people who add a new stereo. Lets face it, the music is a big profit margin for them all and the more people that buy the high end stereos new, the better they like it.
I've always put aftermarket units in my cars. You get a lot more for your money (IMO).
I'm going to do the same with the Quad, but now I have to wait until a face plate is available, which is too bad, especially since the 2000 dash would have taken a standard unit so easily.
Just wanted to pass along that I was very happy with service and price for buying my Reese hitch 44018 and husky liners for the front seats of my Quad. They did not have either in stock, but had the manufacturer send them directly to me. Liners were $54 + S&H (just ordered today) and hitch was $160 including S&H, drawbar and pin included. http://www.weathers.com/
I went with Reese because I recall someone posting that they had to drill holes for the DrawTie. I bought Reese #44018 which is one welded piece which requires no drilling. I have the hitch and will pick up my '01 Quad cab tomorrow, so I can't personally comment on the installation, but everyone who has posted said it was a breeze.
Dont know if this will help but I had to find the part number for my 2000 Dakota CC to order DRIFTWOOD flares @ $255 prepainted. Part # is 82205258. Relatively easy to install if you have the torgue driver for the screws.
Just got my 2001 Dakota Quad today and it is gorgeous. Bright white with silver bottom. That's right, silver bottom. Dealer told me today that all 2000 fender flares are molded in color and all 2001 flares with the exception of white have to be painted. The reason being was the color of the flare matched better painted than the one molded in color. He proceeded to show me a quad with the driftwood molded flares and how at certain angles looked different shade of color. I have to admit he was right but I have seen plenty of others that looked fine to me. Regardless of what he said I still like the molded ones better. I just will have to have mine painted. With 16" wheels and the handling package, flares are going to have to be a must to keep rocks, mud and other nasty stuff being slung all over the doors and side of the bed.
Once again a dealer telling you anything to keep the sale movin on.
I ordered my fender flares from the dealer parts. Took about 10 days to arrive. They are black plastic on the underside and painted Light Driftwood on the topside. You can see the overspray on the back side. Ordered the fender flares first week of July. I have an '00.
I have a suspicion that the silver flares have not made it into the system yet and the dealer is just trying to get you to give business to his paint shop. When my 01 (bronze)came in, the dealer ordered the flares with the molded in color and had no trouble getting them in within 48 hours.
You picked yours up 8/18. Well I got mine on 8/16. The only reason I mentioned it is that yours is the same color as mine. Perhaps they have the white or white/silver combos being built at the same time. I ordered my 4x4 SLT+ on 7/10/00. Did you order or purchase off the lot? I'm in Atlanta, GA area. Hopefully, we'll be far enough apart that we'll still have unique trucks for our area. No matter and I agree with you: this truck is gorgeous. It'll probably even look great after an off-road mud bath. Keep on trucking!!
i did not install mine, but i watched the guy do it and he has done many of them. it took about 4 hours to do the complete install including trimming my pendaliner bed liner in a few places.
Hey troops, need some input regarding the Manik grille/brush guard. I visited a nearby truck accessory dealer (Burlington, NJ) and they had the Manik on sale in black for $359.95 plus an installation fee of $44.00-$64.00, depending on shop time. I would like some input as regards the quality and price of this guard. I am considering one for my 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, and one for my bride's 2000 Toyota 4 Runner. Thanks a heap.
I am not a long-term truck person (yet), but when I bought my QC the dealer had already put a Manik guard on the front (which was okay as I had wanted the front guard anyway). I ended up paying dealer-invoice-for-the-mopar-guard, for the Manik, so I was happy there. I've found a local shop that carries Manik (in Austin TX) and their un-installed price was about $460. I have not yet done something "serious" with the guard (pushed a vehicle, tried to pull something with it, etc.) but it appears very sturdy and well mounted to the frame of the truck. The guard fits very well and looks good on the truck (check it out here: http://www.tertius.com/TheJumps/tjump/dakota.html).
Ted the Chinese have a very old saying: "One picture is worth a thousand words." Therefore, three pictures are worth three thousand words, and enlargeable picture drive the worth to a million words. Thanks for your response, and your truck is beautiful. The guard looks great. I guess $359.95 is a good price. I placed the order after viewing your photos, and installation will take place on Tuesday the 29th. Thanks again Ted.
xena1a I personally installed a roll-n-lock on my 2000 QC. I took me about 3.5 hours. This was the first time I installed one. It turned out great. The instructions are not very good. It is one of those instruction books that serves double, triple duty for other makes of trucks. I did get through it, but I had to make some educated guesses. My one warning is minimize the amount of time you drive the truck with the cover retracted into the holding unit because it rubs on the aluminum which results in lines on the vinyl that are difficult to remove. No scratching just aliminum dust rubbed on the black vinyl.
Comments
The accesories glossy proganda folder from Dodge does not include a price or part number. I saw one on a truck at the dealer a couple of weeks ago and the price was about $150 on the window sticker.
Do like the way these lights look. When off, they look like that combination of mottled yellow and purple you see on "aged" chromed motorcycle exhaust pipes. When on, the 55W bulbs blaze.
I have the Mopar sill guards on my Quad also,part #50(same catalog)they look and fit great.List for$31.00 for the Quad.Very easy to install.
Hope this helps.
Allen-
Do have to have an angled screw driver / nut driver device unless you take off the wheels.
Sill guard installation instructions read harder than it really is. Both the mud flaps and sill guards are worth the money.
I've read over tjump, jones27, teckno, and myersed's discussion but I desire more info on a rack system that I'll be able to carry either two canoes side by side or one canoe and one kayak. I'm concerned with putting two aluminum canoes (80# each) on the roof sheet metal siting on four little feet. Also concerned with the effect of the clips on the door's weather striping. I want to make sure what I do is right since some solutions require drilling holes in the roof to mount a rail. Finally, I don't want a "wimpy" system that moves around or worst yet fails and results in damage to the truck and/or allows the canoes to "take off" causing an accident.
I've looked in the MOPAR accessory book, I've looked at the Thule and Yakima catalogs / websites, even called Thule once. Still don't feel like I can make that painful $200-$350 decision. Advice / Experience Please.
For big canoes, you have a few choices.
1.You can do the Yakimas and trust the literature.
2. You can put on a shell/cap/topper, mount artificial raingutters to that, and do either Yakima or Thule (or any other) simple rack which attaches to raingutters. This is what I use for either many surfboards, 2 sea kayaks, up to 5 river kayaks, one biiiig lake canoe, lumber/plywood (be sane) etc. This is the 4th truck I've used like this and have never had a roof/rack/equipment failure, plus you get a dry space for your stuff or your dog. You can remove the racks for better MPG when you're not using them.
3. The Mirage rack is very nice if you don't want a shell or a permanent rack. Looks like a over-bed rack, but fold up or removes when not in use. Check www.cabelas.com
4. For serious carrying, there is really nothing better than a lumber rack. A steel tube, permanently mounted rack will have an over-cab section to protect your truck, can easily carry loads up to 20 feet long, and is probably rated up to 400 lb or so. The drawbacks are permanent mounting and wind resistance. Price is comparable to Yakima or Thule. They make these for trucks with or without camper shells. I put them on my work trucks and sometimes have them out on the weekends (don't tell the IRS). They also buy you the benefit of the doubt if you have to double-park...
Good luck and happy boating
Ben
steve234 - rather than me trying to find your old posting and the ladder rack company, could you just post it again?
Powder coated steel topper (black)
'Split' down the middle (left/right sides)
Opens like a gullwing for access to either side
Lockable
Holds weight on top very well
The trick parts:
Opens in the middle like upward swinging bar doors
And folds upwards to create 'sides' for tall stuff to fit between (in the bed)
Works as a double (two) canoe or kayak holder
Works as a ladder or other... holder
Says it holds up quite well - should for $600-700
Anyone familiar with this thing? Is it workable?
thanks in advance for any advice.
only complaint is that the lock mechanism is defective on mine in that i have found it unlatched twice in the first week even the safety latches worked themselves loose. i called the manusfacturer today and they are sending me replacements for the latch and the safety latches both. will let you know if this fixes the problem.
www.4ARE.com
heres the good link................sorry!
renegade69
Tire and Handling, Wheel Flares, Tinted
Windows, SLT & SLT plus, 2WD.
I installed an A.R.E. LSII Cover: Boltless-
install design. HD latching system, excellent
warranty. I ordered it with thier spoiler.
Looks Tuff, get lots of looks. If your truck
has the small wheels I'd think twice about
the wing though.
Check out: www.http//4ARE.com
There is a $20.00 coupon you can print out
and a dealer index to find a dealer closest
to you.
And I'm sure your curious about $$$$$
Cover Patriot Blue delivered and installed $670.00
The wing was an additional $300.00
If anyone is interested in looking at a photo
send me an E-mail and I'll send you a photo.
renegade@networksplus.net
renegade69 sorry so long....................
My guess is that he can get fender flares, just not already painted in the color you want. You can find the two tone paint code on the driver door. On the bottom right corner of the sticker is TRM and then some 3 letter code. This is the paint code you need when you order your fender flares.
You might try calling another dealer to see if they are more willing to order parts for you. Seems there was a post a long time ago about ordering the fender flares off the net below dealer cost. Someone who is better at searching the forum might be able to find it for you.
Can the tailgate open without unlocking the gulwing?
How much modification/sealing is needed to stop most/all water from entering?
Thanks
I can not decide between a LeBra or the Total Access roll up cover.
What is this "gullwing" thing you all are talking about?? I thought I was up on covers and accessories for my QC, but this has escaped my attention!!!
recommend you look at the LSII. Boltless
design. 5 minutes and its off! The tailgate
cannot be lowered. The locking mechanism
is 2 heavy duty rods not a piece of wire.
Warranty rocks, lifetime on paint. Well
built too. I saw a guy lay his cover on the
ground and drive his truck on it! It did
not crack or break it. Lot of other great
features too.
Of course, to each his own......goodluck.
renegade69
bobyt876 - Mine won't. You'll need to 'pop' the rear lock loose to get the tailgate down. It's part of the security deal you get with this type of cover. As for water 'proofing': I'd suggest using side rail (sit on top) protectors available from lots of sources (most have been discussed here at some point) first. That's assuming you're using the factory (or similar like the Penda) bed liner. These are under rail except at the front of the bed and the tailgate - both of these areas are somewhat covered by a thick vinyl overlap. Add the side rail protectors (up on top) and you've got a (more) level surface to install a cover. That'll help a bunch. Or just get an over-the-rail liner (which I'm not sure anyone's shipping - yet). Then (in the daylight hours) just crawl in the bed with the cover on and look for light (gaps) that will let water in. Use silicone caulk or something easy to remove (but water proof) later on and you're all set. Caveat: don't pull the cover down (just have a helper handy) if the tailgate's up (locked) or you might be locked in.
That'd be stinky. %-)=
And in response to renegade69's comments: The main thing I like best about the one piece lids - especially the A.R.E. products - is that they LOOK the best (in my opinion) of anything you can put next to the really glossy finishes of the Quad. They don't have wrinkle or line one, and their struts are much better (again, IMO) than the OEM lid. They should be anyway, as they have a larger surface area and weight to lift. Only reason to avoid the glossy look is if you have nerfs, grill guards, etc. that are 'flat' finished and would look more balanced with a regular tonneau, fold - a - cover or roll - type with a flat finish. But then again you could paint the A.R.E. with a flat black. Hmmm... now I'M getting interested in one.
victx - Manik is a fabulous product. So is WAAG - but I think more expensive than Manik or Westin.
Oh, and BTW - if you want to use a tonneau, lid or other cover over a SPRAYED IN liner, you won't have the weird top fit issues I described above; you're already 'flush.' ;-)
netdocs
Looks like a standard DIN and 1/2 won't fit anymore without a face plate.
I'm going to do the same with the Quad, but now I have to wait until a face plate is available, which is too bad, especially since the 2000 dash would have taken a standard unit so easily.
best fitting and least obvious hitch for Quad. Reese, Hidden Hitch, Draw Tite, or other.
Also, I have 2001. Anyone know if any changes to
rear hitch area? Will 2000 hitch fit 2001? I would assume they are the same.
Badassbob-(Chad) has one and swears by it.
Allen-
Part # is 82205258. Relatively easy to install if you have the torgue driver for the screws.
I ordered my fender flares from the dealer parts. Took about 10 days to arrive. They are black plastic on the underside and painted Light Driftwood on the topside. You can see the overspray on the back side. Ordered the fender flares first week of July. I have an '00.
You picked yours up 8/18. Well I got mine on 8/16. The only reason I mentioned it is that yours is the same color as mine. Perhaps they have the white or white/silver combos being built at the same time. I ordered my 4x4 SLT+ on 7/10/00. Did you order or purchase off the lot? I'm in Atlanta, GA area. Hopefully, we'll be far enough apart that we'll still have unique trucks for our area. No matter and I agree with you: this truck is gorgeous. It'll probably even look great after an off-road mud bath. Keep on trucking!!
their Dakota? Big job? Not so bad? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks...
robert
Bookitty
I am not a long-term truck person (yet), but when I bought my QC the dealer had already put a Manik guard on the front (which was okay as I had wanted the front guard anyway). I ended up paying dealer-invoice-for-the-mopar-guard, for the Manik, so I was happy there. I've found a local shop that carries Manik (in Austin TX) and their un-installed price was about $460. I have not yet done something "serious" with the guard (pushed a vehicle, tried to pull something with it, etc.) but it appears very sturdy and well mounted to the frame of the truck. The guard fits very well and looks good on the truck (check it out here: http://www.tertius.com/TheJumps/tjump/dakota.html).
Regards,
-Ted
$359.95 is a good price. I placed the order after viewing your photos, and installation will take place on Tuesday the 29th. Thanks again Ted.
Bookitty
Good Luck jaalfs