Subaru Crew - Modifications II

1…7273757778…106

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    In this context, "old" means lighter, more character, broken in! :-)

    Every car has its potential problems, at least we already know what ours could be!

    -juice
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Anyone knows which wire is what?

    I've got my auxiliary lights mounted and harness set.
    Just need to close the circuit, and I'm using the OEM switch [bought separately].

    TIA

    -Dave
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Oh, forgot to mention.
    The auxiliary light mod with OEM switch is on the WRX :)

    -Dave
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,398
    Well Dave, I was just about to look at my wiring diagram manual for the Legacy/OB when I saw your second post. 8~)

    Jim
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Thanks Jim :)
    The wirings should be the same, since the switch is used on both the OB and WRX.

    -Dave
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Many thanks to Michel for the diagram.
    Just what I need to identify the wires. :)

    -Dave
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    A while back I asked for some feedback on these, and got some good comments from a few other members. I remember Doug and Mike were particularly helpful, sorry if I forgot anyone else.

    http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/mods/fog_off1.jpg
    http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/mods/fog_on1.jpg

    They were quite easy to install. As my car didn't have the switch and relay, I had to get those as well. Since Subaru wanted about $80 for the two (!), I posted a WTB on nasioc and got both shipped to me for $30 from someone who had taken out his fogs for a front intercooler.

    The Hellas were about $70 for the kit, and now I have much extra wire and a switch and relay since I used the Subaru ones and my car was wired (but not switched or relayed) for fogs already.

    I like these lights. They look good and seem like they'll work really well too, although the car has yet to leave suburbia in the two days since they've been put in. I'm looking forward to trying them out in inclement weather and on backroads.

    For less than what we would've paid for OEM fog lights at the dealer (over $300 IIRC), we've added:
    Hella 500's (better than OEM) $110
    Infinity speakers (much better than OEM) $70
    Upgraded horns (better than OEM) $20
    Interior cargo light (very handy) $20
    Rubber floor mats (great for mud and dirt) $45

    Thanks again for the helpful info when I asked about these.

    utahsteve
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nice lights!

    :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Looks sweet. The fogs look brighter than the headlights.

    -juice
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    Thanks, I think they look better every time I see them.

    Juice: They do seem brighter, but maybe it's just the pattern. The pattern is very wide but not tall, if that makes sense. It's like a wide strip of light, whereas the low beam headlight pattern is a bit narrower and taller or "deeper".

    Low beams are like this: ====
    Hellas are like this: -----------------------

    The fogs by themselves (not possible with current wiring, but that can be changed) would only be for low speed travel, obviously, 'cause you'd outrun them pretty easily. They're definitely fogs, not driving lights. The low beam and fog wattage is the same (55W) but where the fog pattern hits *is* quite bright.

    My OB w/ the stock fogs has feelings of fog light inadequacy now!

    utahsteve

    edit: My ASCII "fog lamp pattern" is pretty lame, LOL. Sorry. At some point in the future I want to do an actual photograph to compare, but that will take some time and a suitable locale.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I understood your point, FWIW.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Took your suggestion and ordered Rota Sub Zero today in 16x7 with a +45 offset, tried one on the car and fits fine, store had a set for a guy with a WRX, it will take about 3 weeks to get them if they are at the warehouse.

     They were not cheap $330 each CDN but he gave to me at $275 CDN still no bargain.

    The more I looked at the FRD EVO I was going to get the more they looked like WRX rims and I hate those, I am going to have this car a long time so I may as well get what I like.

      They are also pretty light at 14.5 LBs. each.

     I also tried 17" on the car while I liked the improvement in roadholding I was less than enamoured of the increase in noise and discomfort level.

    One of the things I like about this car is the smoothness and for the amount of really spirited driving I get to do these days with my wife mostly in the car telling me to slow down:-)

    It Holds the road well enough on the 55 series tires.

      Cheers Pat.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    wow! I hadn't heard much from you recently and was expecting to see pics any day of those other wheels.

    although your car is superbly cared for so it's not as if the money is wasted.

    -Colin
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I never consider money I spend on the car wasted, it's just, there is not so much of it around now I have to pick what I spend it on more carefully.

      Cheers Pat.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Pat,

    How much louder and jarring were the 17" wheels? Could you describe the difference a little more?

    I'd love to see pics of your new Rotas when you get them.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    7" wide is already an upgrade. You could always get 225/50 tires, too.

    Gotta wait 3 weeks for pics? Bummer.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    The noise may have been attributed to the tires as well, they were Dunlop SP 215x45x17, the jarring, well where the 55 series tires will roll over expansion joints and minor pot holes with no noise or thumping.

    I got the impression with the 45 series 17" if you ran over a dime you could tell if it was heads or tails, expansion joints were just thump, thump, thump,

      You gotta remember the smaller the sidewall of the tire the stiffer it is going to be, so less give = more noise thats the trade off for better handling, I guess what it comes down to in my state of decay I am not prepared to make that trade off:-)

      Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well finally settled on a set of Summer/Track tires.

    Picking up a set of Kumho Ecsta V700s that have about 10-15 auto-x runs on them and were heat cycled from tirerack. 225-50-16 size. Price $225 for 4 :) So I can't really complain about the price since they are $143/each tires when new.

    These will last me til I get the Impreza L going well enough for the track.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well lets see, Zephyr and I did some work over the weekend on a few cars. Hypov was an excellent help through it all as well running to get us lunch as well as some extra sockets later in the day!

    First order was to put a Perrin Uppipe in an '04 WRX Sedan with 1100 miles on the ticker. Talk about starting early! We also put an Apexi cat-back Melon-Launcher exhaust on for him and an HKS super-loud BOV. It's very nice to install stuff when it's new :) We also refined our Up-pipe install using a bottle jack to lift the engine rather than a floor jack. Made it quicker.

    Later in the day we ran out to Long Island and had to swap a stock RS suspension over to an OBS. The OBS had STi V5 struts and Whiteline springs. The guy who was getting the V5 struts was putting P1 Springs on there as well so I bought the Whiteline Springs for the Project Impreza L that I will be embarking on. Also picked up a whiteline adjustable strut tower bar as well.

    The problem we had was that the guy who's RS we were working on must have had a shop put on his rims with a 200lb torque gun. His Key for the wheel locks was stripped. So we had to send Hypov to pickup 4 19mm 12-point sockets. Once we had them it took 3 taps with the hammer to bang them on over the wheel lock and take off the wheel locks. Lots of good they do eah?

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You seem to be building quite a little business there, good to go.

    Scary 'bout the wheel locks, but oh well, if they want my rims that badly they can have them, and I'll let insurance cover them.

    -juice
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Carry 4 19mm 12-points sockets, mallet, and spare lugnuts. ;-)

    -Dave
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Wow, Mike. Are you going to start a side business there? I might have to think about driving cross country to get some mod work done. ;-)

    So how difficult is the uppipe install?

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Check out http://iace.com/azp :)

    Uppipe is a PITA, but not technically difficult. Now that Zephyr and I have done a few, we can usually finish it in about 2-2.5hrs in good conditions. Certain aftermarket uppipes are easier to install than others and new gaskets are required. You also need to jack the engine to get it out.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I might get those springs from iSR after my warranty expires. So maybe I'll pay a visit to you're little bid-ness. :-)

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    mike,

    Cool. Didn't know you had a website for your business. How long have you been doing this for?

    Make any housecalls to the west coast? ;-)

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    We can always do your springs at your place or even at summit point in the hotel parking lot :) We are mobile :)

    Ken, if I'm out in your area, by all means I'll help yah out :)

    It's been pretty good, been doing it about a year. Mostly started as a help to people then we started getting tons of requests so kinda made it into a little biz so that we could finance our track days and auto-x. It doesn't even cover all the fees for doing auto-x and HPDE but helps and we love helping people on their cars. People like to have us do the work cause they can watch and don't have to leave their car during work hrs to get it done (when they usually need the car for work or what not).

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    So it's a non-profit race-and-installfest thingy, sort of. Cool. :-)

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It pays for our subaru racing habit :)

    -mike
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    A win-win. Nice set up!

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Got to see them in action weekend before last when I got my tint installed. These guys could work blindfolded, easily. :-)

    My wife and I both went with 50% on the fronts (driver/pass.) and 35 on the rest. AZP has a top notch guy doing tint. One of these days, I'll take and post pics.

    -Dennis
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well we had to exhaust done on the SVX yesterday. It is quite free flowing but didn't loose too much low-end. The problem is that it's unreal in terms of how loud it is from 2700->4500 RPMs. Currently we have 2" pipes from the collectors on either side back to a Y pipe with 2.5" out to a High Flow Magnaflow Cat, then 2.5" back to a magnaflow Camaro/Firebird Muffler and 2.5" out the back with stock-looking tips. We are gonna probably stick in 2 4" resonators in the 2" sections right after the collectors to try to shift the sould about 2000 rpms up the band.

    The sound from 0->2700 is a very very nice deep V8 sounding tone.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    do you work on 1994 Legacy turbos? ....... in Houston? I heard a guy claim he got 100 hp out of stand-alone engine management "only". Not sure I believe that. Seems you'd have to free up the exhaust and turn up the boost a little. But anyway, I'd be curious to pick your brain sometime about parts you have learned will/won't work with my car. It's still bone stock, and I have told myself I don't really want to modify it, but sometimes a little tinkering has an appeal.

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well Adam of AZP has a '9something Legacy Turbo that he picked up as a beater. I'll ask him what he has come across in his research. I believe an IC will be helpful. I'll check on other stuff for yah.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    Adam of Z1 performance? Seems like he had a early 90's turbo Legacy and then bought a newer generation Legacy recently.

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Everyone confuses Adam of Z1 with the other adam from LI. :)

    Z1 is a joke these days, ever since they moved to their new building.

    -mike
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    Has anyone installed a class 2 "Hidden Hitch" to their 2002 Outback Wagon?? I am about to embark onto this venture and am looking for tips.

    Also, am attempting to install a transmission cooler for the auto trans. Any tips or advice? Should I bypass the tranny cooler already in the rad or incorporate it with the external cooler??

    Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have the OE hitch on my Forester. I forget who the manufacturer is, but IIRC it's different than the Hidden Hitch.

    The only trick on the Forester was you had to remove one bolt holding the fuel vacuum canister in place. Be careful, if you have to do the same, to reconnect the hoses. If there is a leak it will trigger a CEL and may even shut off the engine.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Put the AT cooler in series with the stock one. If you don't this winter you'll wind up having the tranny stay in lower gears and not lockup the torque converter til the atf temp is high enough. Basically the internal cooler also acts as a heater for the fluid in the winter, so bypassing it on a year round basis isn't a great idea.

    -mike
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    lives in MD now...... not with me though :(
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Mike is correct - in series with the radiator based cooler. I once converted a manual to an automatic (Ford F-150), and couldn't keep the tranny fluid temp stable until I bought a new radiator spec'ed for an automatic equipped truck (the original did not have an internal cooler).

    Also, remember that although the hitch components for class II are rated at 3500lbs, the OB is limited to 2000....

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I can understand using a Class II hitch, if only to get the more universal 2" receiver. The Class I comes with a 1.25" receiver, and fewer things fit into it.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Don't do it Bob! Don't start...AAAAAAAH!

    We should have a Tow Topic so we don't hijack all these threads. ;-)

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    a word...

    Bob
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    is still 1.25x1.25" ?????

    Steve
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    :-)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think the receiver size varies, but usually it's 2" for Class II. Subaru's OE one is a 1.25" Class I.

    -juice
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    factory Class II receivers are 1.25," not 2." At least the one's I've seen on Ford Escapes/Explorers and Tributes. The Explorer factory Class III receiver is 2."

    Oops... I was going to keep quiet on this one... ;)

    Bob
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That I saw Explorers with the smaller hitches and was quite suprised.

    -mike
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.