ur vibration at stops makes me think iether u need a tune up or ur timing is off. as far as the drop in rpm when ur ac kicks on, well, ur gonna have that to some extent because the ac pump draws alot of power of the motor when the compressor kicks on. But if u really want to know how to raise the rpm, adjust ur timing. three bolts, a timing light, and a paper clip is all u need for that.
The damage won't in all liklihood be covered by your bumper-to-bumper warranty ("normal wear items" and all that . . .). But, any decent upholstery shop should be able to remove the affected seat cover(s) and replace the worn/torn panel(s) much cheaper than having the dealer order new factory seat covers.
My old '95 Accord V6 EX has been always showing the normal warm engine temperture as significantly lower than the middle (3 O'Clock), more like at 1/3, or 4 o'clock...
My new '05 Accord V6 EX is showing the SAME thing... The temp. gauge needle has never, so far, reached the middle, always lower than the middle....
Why is that so? Does the engine operate at a lower temp. than the gauge was designed for?
You may just not have driven in a condition where you see the needle move to the upper half of the range. If you had a full car, drove up hill for miles in a sunny hot day, you would probably see that needle in the upper range.
That exact thing happened to me on a trip through the Rocky Mountains. That was the only time I ever saw the vehicle I was driving ever get in that range.
I rather see the needle operate below half, then operate at mid or higher range.
Relax. Since this temperature gauge "anomaly" has been present from the beginning of your ownership, your engine is coming up to full nominal operating temperature as regulated by the coolant thermostat - in most cases 190 degrees F. coolant temperature on cars for at least the last decade and a half. (If you were reporting a recent change, I'd be suspicious of a bad thermostat.) The fact that your running temperature has shown no perceptaible change over ten years of ownership is quiet testimony to your having done, or having had done, timely cooling system servicing along the way. (Ya' done good!) Your instrument cluster temperature gauge, however, is intentionally calibrated to show an acceptable margin beyond the nominal running indication to allow for high heat situations such as pulling a long grade in hot weather. Operation at very high altitudes in hot weather might well result in the gauge reading being somewhat elevated. The lower barometric pressure at altitude will result in more coolant being expelled into the overflow bottle. That reduction in liquid volume in the cooling system may not allow as effective cooling under high-heat high-load situaitons as you're used to seeing at lower altitudes. Regardless, as long as the temprature gauge needle doesn't swing into the red zone, you (and engine) are OK. I drive a Hyundai Sonata V-6. Like your Accord, I've never seen the temperature gauge needle at the mid-point, let alone above (even pulling the brutal six mile 4% Cheriaco Summit Pass on the way from California to Arizona in 115 F. heat with the A/C set to freezemybuttoff!). The same was true of my '96 Accord I-4, too. Honda (and apparently Hyundai, too) are generous with radiator area.
that little engine has no... well almost no... torque... its better suited for your riding lawn mower... where as a 3800 v-6 has no vibration with a/c on at a stop... no rpm variation with a/c on or off.. about the only indication of a/c being on with 3800 v-6 is the frigid air coming from the vents... i hope that helps you...
I have an 04 EXV6, the drivers side ..LH side bolster on my car also showed wear. I showed it to the dealer and they paid for the repair. They brought a specialist in to replace the panel with the honda part. Apparently Honda Technicians dont fix the leather seats. So I imagine it is covered by the factory warranty..not sure about the extended one.
3800 v-6 has torque alright but that is about all! It is a much larger engine .8 liters. As you increase the engine size you increase the troque ( well actually a longer stroked engine with a smaller bore will have more torque for the same displacement). If you look at a typical 3800 v6 it only has 200 hp and 230 ft-lb of torque; that is a low tech engine that won't get goo mileage!
The 3800 v-6 may have torque, butI have yet to see them put the engine in a decent car
Have you talked to your Honda Dealer. The reason is Honda does have an extended warranty on their transmissions. I had my replaced recently on my 01 Accord V6. Check with the dealer and look at the TSB's or recalls online. The dealer should be able to do this as well. Don't automatically assume the cost until all measures are exhausted because you maybe paying for something that you don't have to.
I believe you're closer to the truth in your opinion. I can't comment on the quality of GM's plastic pieces, but the company sure likes to plant hard plastic where most other companies choose semi-padded pieces. While it's only a tactile issue, the touch of hard plastic doesn't inspire confidence in the company's quality of design and materials choice. Until recently, the hard plastic pieces in GM dash panel sections in some lower line models didn't even align properly with each other, further reinforcing the opinion some hold that the company no longer stresses quality construction. At least with Asian cars, everything fits as it should inside and owners don't come away with the feeling that responsibility for the dash design and choice of materials were an afterthought to be turned over to summer high school interns.
You might want to check about Odyssey glovebox area fit and finish on the Odyssey discussion here and the Avalon problems with interior fit before you make blanket statements.
I've seen lots of those other plastics which have wrinkled, cracked, shriveled up on interiors of cars. I check cars when I park next to them to see how the interiors look and how the plastics age compared to my current cars. The padded plastics for soft touch seem to deteriorate after a few years in certain models.
>typical 3800 v6 it only has 200 hp and 230 ft-lb of torque; that is a low tech engine that won't get goo mileage!
It seems the 3800 gets 31-33 on interstate trips with 3 adults and luggage in a LeSabre that is heavier than an Accord and is roomier (that's why I bought it). It gives 24 in around town driving for us. Is that what you're saying is poor mileage. Those are real world numbers.
Who, in the Accord room, would want one of those? It's a great engine for the uses that they apply it to. But what do you expect for what is basically a 30-40 year old engine that's been updated to death.
I was replying to midnightcowboy who had made comments about the 3800 that showed lack of knowledge. Whatever engine and whatever car he prefers is fine with me, but he spoke erroneously and I clarified the facts for him. Please disregard my postings.
Oh ney, I didn't misspeak. I just think Buicks and the other old relic cars the 3800 is in are terrrible cars. What fact did you clarify other than siteing one supposed example of good mileage ?
I wouldn't be caugth dead in a Buick , even a rental one. I sure wouldn't want to be able to quote actual mileage figures. Someone might think I own or drive one.
Buick hasn't made a decent car since the 87 Grand National or the 65 Buick Riveria Grand Sport.
Medicare as I understand it will now underwrite Buick purchases since the average owner is 73 years old.
Cheers,
MidCow 6-speed Accord Coupe w Borla exhaust
P.S.- Sometime I will tell you haow I really feel about Buicks
Are these problem or normal things? I have 2 month Accord LX V4 auto with 3K on it. There are two things I don’t like about it but not sure they are problems. :confuse:
First, I feel the break did not respond well. When I gently start to push the break pedal, I feel the car move faster. I have to push it quite deep to make it slow to stop. If I ask the dealer to check, how much they’re going to charge?
Secondly, every time I tried to close the trunk, it always pop back up. Is the trunk cover too light?
Now I’m upset more . The cloth upholstery at my back seat was cut because of my child car seat (back forward). I had put the towel under it but not at the side. Any one know how much to fix it?
One of the complaints with new Accord brakes is they are too touchy. Yours seem to be the opposite. I would have the dealer take a look to see if they are OK, assuming it is under warranty, they won't charge to check.
As far as the trunk lid, the latch may be adjusted too tight, another thing that will be fixed free under warranty. The problem will lessen on it's own with time, as the gasket around the trunk lid is compressed, and tends to stay that way after a while.
Now as far as the tear in the seat, well that's obviously not covered, so you have to pay for that one. My suggestion would be to carefully sew the tear together with a strong thread and live with it till the kids are out of their car seats. Any auto upholstery shop will be able to replace the torn panel, but I don't have an idea what it will cost.
I have a 90 Accord with a flashing oil light at an idle. The oil filter has been changed with a genuine honda filter, the oil pan has been dropped to look for gunk, none found, and the oil pressure switch has been replaced. Help, what's next? This is a steady flashing light at idle only, no problem when driving the car.
Unless some minimum wage moron at one of the quickie-lube places put 5W-20 motor oil in a 15 yr-old car never designed for it, it sounds like your oil pump is worn past acceptable specs, you have some serious leakage past the valve stem seals, and/or your main bearings are worn to the point oil is slipping past them faster than the pump can keep up with at idle. It can only get worse. 20W-50 motor oil might hide the problem long enough to sell or trade the car, but if you plan to keep it, dust off your wallet - you're goin' for a ride.
Invest in a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see what your pressure really is.
You didn't mention that you replaced the pump, that could also be your problem.
You also have the option of dropping the pan again and replacing the rod bearings. Main bearings may also need replacing, but they can be harder to do.
I experience the same thing in my 05 LX with 600 miles now. I attribute it to having driven a 91 LX with a somewhat harder brake pedal for 11 years. When I go back to the 91, I brake too softly. When in the 05, I suffer whiplash...
After 1000 miles Perfect. My only complaint was my saleperson did not know what the small connector type hole and speaker are by the driver's map light. First he told me it was for a hands free cell phone. Then something to do with the NAV system I didn't have.
It is a LED spotlight that shines on the AT shifter at night. As for the speaker I still do not know what it is?
Has anyone here damaged their navigation screen? Is there any kind of protective "layer"? What needed to be replaced? (the whole unit !?!). What about putting a protective film over it, like what you would put on a PDA ?
Hi, I asked this question on the Honda Accord Sedan forum but got no answer. How many quarts of oil is it take to do an oil change in this car( in my 99 V6 Accord it took 4.5 quarts). Does anyone know how to program the keyless entry remote to the car if you were to buy a new remote? I have a used 05 Accord with 1 key and no owners manual. Thanks.
inserted the key and tried to crank the engine...The dash board lights have come on for a fraction of a second and then all electronics of the car shut down...nothing is working radio, power locks etc....I tried to start it turned the key from II to III nothing no crank nothing...(I have recently changed my main fuel relay but it does not seem the same problem.)...waited for a couple of minutes and then tried again...started normally and it is normal since then...please help me here why all the electronics has shutdown! Any help is greatly appreciated...
When the Honda dealer changes mine, it says 4.3 on the bill. I have an 05 accord 4 cylinder. On a US big three car, they put the new key in the ignition and switch it back and forth without starting the car. I have seen them do it on a Ford I used to drive, but that is all I know.
I am experiencing the similar problem. I took my 2005 Honda Accord LX(AT) to my dealer service department today and they told me that the power steering rack and pinion system is leaking and it needs to be replaced with a new part.I am surprised that rack and pinion goes off so early. I just bought the car last month and it got only 1300 miles on it. This is my first new car and I am kinda depressed for a new Honda Accord has such a major problem so early on its life.
Coulda been worse - at least it's on Honda's nickel. All automakers build cars and engines. Many, but not all, build transmissions, too. (Honda's one that does build its own transmissions.) Most of the other parts are sourced from various suppliers. Whomever Honda buys their steering components from may have had a QC problem* and you got "lucky". Don't be too quick to judge the whole car on the basis of an outsourced component. The odds are with you on the replacement steering rack and pinion.
*which may in turn have really been the fault of the company's seal supplier - the list can go on and on...
This is similar to my problem. When I'd move around in the seat I would hear creaking in the bottom and top. A nice technician at the dealership dissassembled the seat and insulated the metal structure of the seat from the foam rubber. It's quiet now!
Returned from month long vacation during which time car sat idle in an enclosed garage. It will not start. Battery is a year old. Lights work, as does dashboard lights and horn. When turning key in ignition it just goes click, click, click and nothing connects. Any ideas as to what may be occurring? I reside in South Florida. Could it be a moisture problem?
If you disconnected the batter before your trip, and after coming back to connect your battery, then it may be that you didn't tighten your connectors tight enough.
Are Honda automatic transmissions among those that have to "re-learn" their fuzzy-logic shift qualtiy settings according to the principle user's driving style from scratch if the battery is disconnected more than 30 seconds?
looking for some help on motor mounts. What do they look like, where are they located on a 1992 Honda Accord. Had someone tell us what they look like but no such animal on this car. Would appreciate any help out there.
Assuming things didn't change much from the previous models, your Accord probably has 4 of them.One looks like a dog bone, located near the top-back of the engine, connecting to the firewall. Another one is located in the front, just behind the radiator, at the bottom. It's large, and sort of round looking. Another one is located in the back of the engine, near the bottom. You will have a problem seeing it, unless you know what to look for. The last one is mounted on the bottom of the engine-tranny. Its a small rubber mount.
You might want to look at pics of repalcement mounts, Partsamerica.com usually shows pics of them.
Majestic Honda has a web-site that allows one to research parts for Honda Vehicles. Go there, select the online parts catalog, enter your model year, model, transmission type and select Engine Mount, and you'll see what they look like.
I have a 2005 EX-L with 5 speed. Car is garage parked and I maybe drive it once during the week and at least once over the weekend. I just figured the brakes were extra senstitive because the car sits so much. The sensitivity wears off after braking three times (three stop signs). I drove a friends 96 EX (4 cyl auto) coupe years ago and the brakes were extra sensitive like this ALL the time. Once I got used to them it was fine. I drove a 2001 EX V6 before current car and while they were sensitive too they were never like the 96 coupe. I had a chevy before the 2001 Accord and let me tell you I will take sensitive breaks over mushy breaks that can't stop a car ANY day.
I was able to fill up my gas tank and get about 350 before each fill-up. Now all of a sudden, I only get 3/4 of a tank everytime I go to a gas station for a fill up. I know it's not filling up because now I only get about 250 miles between fill-ups. I tried several different gas stations to see if it was the pump. Any suggestions?
I bought a 2004 accord last June (approx 15 months now). My wife stopped driving it because she was having back pain with the seats. I drive it now with the same problem. I had a professionally installed lumbar support and extra foam added to the seat, but the problem is only marginally improved. We wish we hadn't bought the car based on this problem alone. Let me know if you're able to fix it (We have a 2004 LX-G).
I was just on ownerlink and did not see anything about transmission warranties being extended on MY2000 and up Accords. Can anyone show me where this is? I have a 2002 with 50K that is getting its THIRD new tranny this week. Only 50K! I want to see the warranty language!
My 88 Accord is very close to being scrap metal if I cant figure this darn thing out. I have done nearly everything, replacing nearly everything under the hood.I am in southern Louisiana now but live in the Phoenix area. I dont know if the carb is the problem but its the only thing I have not replaced. I dont know if its okay but needs proper adjustment or if I need rebuild or new carb. 175.000 miles
The problem is a lunging, stalling, sometimes runs great but not for long, then it lunges and coughs then stalls and seems to miss at times but starts up fine and strong. She is such a great car outside of this 'haunting' that I just keep pouring money into it knowing that it will come back strong.
So what do you guys think? New carb or a good adjustmant and then WHO? No one wants to work on these monsters. Youd think their hair was on fire they run from me when I say Honda Carb.
Comments
but i suggest u try the tune up first.
My new '05 Accord V6 EX is showing the SAME thing... The temp. gauge needle has never, so far, reached the middle, always lower than the middle....
Why is that so? Does the engine operate at a lower temp. than the gauge was designed for?
That exact thing happened to me on a trip through the Rocky Mountains. That was the only time I ever saw the vehicle I was driving ever get in that range.
I rather see the needle operate below half, then operate at mid or higher range.
mrbill
Now you don't really believe that, do you?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The 3800 v-6 may have torque, butI have yet to see them put the engine in a decent car
YOMV,
MidCow
Have you talked to your Honda Dealer. The reason is Honda does have an extended warranty on their transmissions. I had my replaced recently on my 01 Accord V6. Check with the dealer and look at the TSB's or recalls online. The dealer should be able to do this as well. Don't automatically assume the cost until all measures are exhausted because you maybe paying for something that you don't have to.
Good luck,
Allan
I've seen lots of those other plastics which have wrinkled, cracked, shriveled up on interiors of cars. I check cars when I park next to them to see how the interiors look and how the plastics age compared to my current cars. The padded plastics for soft touch seem to deteriorate after a few years in certain models.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It seems the 3800 gets 31-33 on interstate trips with 3 adults and luggage in a LeSabre that is heavier than an Accord and is roomier (that's why I bought it). It gives 24 in around town driving for us. Is that what you're saying is poor mileage. Those are real world numbers.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I wouldn't be caugth dead in a Buick , even a rental one. I sure wouldn't want to be able to quote actual mileage figures. Someone might think I own or drive one.
Buick hasn't made a decent car since the 87 Grand National or the 65 Buick Riveria Grand Sport.
Medicare as I understand it will now underwrite Buick purchases since the average owner is 73 years old.
Cheers,
MidCow 6-speed Accord Coupe w Borla exhaust
P.S.- Sometime I will tell you haow I really feel about Buicks
First, I feel the break did not respond well. When I gently start to push the break pedal, I feel the car move faster. I have to push it quite deep to make it slow to stop. If I ask the dealer to check, how much they’re going to charge?
Secondly, every time I tried to close the trunk, it always pop back up. Is the trunk cover too light?
Now I’m upset more
Thanks.
thanks
SHiftright the Host
As far as the trunk lid, the latch may be adjusted too tight, another thing that will be fixed free under warranty. The problem will lessen on it's own with time, as the gasket around the trunk lid is compressed, and tends to stay that way after a while.
Now as far as the tear in the seat, well that's obviously not covered, so you have to pay for that one. My suggestion would be to carefully sew the tear together with a strong thread and live with it till the kids are out of their car seats. Any auto upholstery shop will be able to replace the torn panel, but I don't have an idea what it will cost.
Mrbill
You didn't mention that you replaced the pump, that could also be your problem.
You also have the option of dropping the pan again and replacing the rod bearings. Main bearings may also need replacing, but they can be harder to do.
Mrbill
My only complaint was my saleperson did not know what the small connector type hole and speaker are by the driver's map light. First he told me it was for a hands free cell phone. Then something to do with the NAV system I didn't have.
It is a LED spotlight that shines on the AT shifter at night. As for the speaker I still do not know what it is?
Mrbill
*which may in turn have really been the fault of the company's seal supplier - the list can go on and on...
Just because the lights work, doesn't mean that the battery isn't low.
Mrbill
You might want to look at pics of repalcement mounts, Partsamerica.com usually shows pics of them.
Mrbill
I bought a 2004 accord last June (approx 15 months now). My wife stopped driving it because she was having back pain with the seats. I drive it now with the same problem. I had a professionally installed lumbar support and extra foam added to the seat, but the problem is only marginally improved. We wish we hadn't bought the car based on this problem alone. Let me know if you're able to fix it (We have a 2004 LX-G).
The problem is a lunging, stalling, sometimes runs great but not for long, then it lunges and coughs then stalls and seems to miss at times but starts up fine and strong. She is such a great car outside of this 'haunting' that I just keep pouring money into it knowing that it will come back strong.
So what do you guys think? New carb or a good adjustmant and then WHO? No one wants to work on these monsters. Youd think their hair was on fire they run from me when I say Honda Carb.
Buck 88