I have a 2003 Accord LX with 42,000 miles. This winter I noticed that on really cold days (20 degrees or less) the rear door locks do not work. It started with the left rear door a few weeks ago, and then today I had the same problem with both rear doors. As soon as the inside of the car warms up enough, they work fine.
Has anybody seen this before? I haven't gone to the dealer yet because I'm afraid he's going to tell me that it's out of warranty. I was wondering if this is a safety issue because the door locks cannot even be pulled up by hand. If someone were in the back seat, they would be stuck inside the car until it warmed up. Although that scenario is unlikely, since the problem only occurs when the car hasn't been driven recently, still I wonder if this can be considered a safety issue. Would Honda cover this after the 36,000 warranty is up?
If a 99 accord auto trans is replaced now, what kind of warranty you expect? Is it 3 yr/36K or 7yr/100K? Asking because I was told it is 7yr/100K for recent models (2000 and later?). Does the same apply to a 99 model because it is the same design flaw with V6 trans. Need help!
Then I need to retract my statement. What kind of drive to work do the cars get? If I remember, you're in Atlanta and you really don't have winter -- just super hot in summer traffic. You're more likely to detriorate the oil in hot summer traffic than with cool weather condensation.
Hello, we own a '05 EX 4Cyl/auto Nav, and have been having some issues with the nav system's tracking of the veichle. In the nav's diagnostic menu (map + Menu + Cancel), under the "B-Cam" it says "Error Active". The problem shows up most often after we make a turn, and the system suddenly says "Not on a digitized road", and stops giving directions for a few minutes (or gives us the wrong directions). The car is entirely stock, and hasn't had any window tinting.
Any clues as to what the problem is, so that I know what to expect before going to the dealer?
Not sure if this has been solved, but I had an almost identical problem (not on an Accord but the logic is still valid)
After much headscratching it turn out the problem was a stiff trunk latch!!
When trying to get the trunk open with the key, I could turn it a bit but not enough to open so would use the release by the driver's seat. Once done would just slam the trunk down. It would stay down but, unknown to me, the lock was not fully "engaged" so the lid was not *fully* down.
Critically, this meant the little light inside the trunk was still on. Although it's a very small drain on the battery, being on *all* the time (even when I wasn't driving) was enough to cause problems.
If I ran the car every day (i.e. during the work week) all was OK, but I tend not to use it at the weekend, so on Monday morning the battery had be drained just enough to not be able to start (Monday morning are bad enough without having to cope with a dead car).
I only replaced the battery once before recognising the "Monday morning" pattern.
The fix was to lubricate the trunk lock so it worked easily and fully engaged the lock when the trunk lid was closed, thus turning off the internal trunk light!!
Of course your problem may not be the trunk lock, but look for some small drain like a license plate light (or short circuit)
First the inner tail lights (trunk lights) are not suppose to light up when you brake, if you look at the trunk light bulbs it is single wired. Look at your outter brake lights they are double wired. Brake lights have two wires because one if for lights in general, the other wire is for when you brake (makes the light brighter), same [non-permissible content removed] with high beams.
Now when you turn your lights on, the inner trunk lights are supposed to turn on. BTW these lights are a waste of money. I personally don’t have bulbs in these sockets.
I would disagree here. No matter how cold it is outside and how thick and less viscous the motor oil is, warming up the car sitting still at low idle speed is the WORST possibly thing to do. The most wear your engine will experience is during low engine speeds when cold. Why?
Well, first off, at low engine speeds (idling, < 1500 rpm) oil, thick or thin, is not being circulated very well. Oil circulation in the engine relies heavily on the speed of the engine itself, as it spins faster, it is able to forcefully ciculate the oil better and further into the depths and heights of the engine parts. Cold oil will barely leave the pan when idling, so warming up a car at idle in very cold weather will serve to have the water/antifreeze mixture in the radiator and heater core heated well, so you can have the heater on and be toasty inside, but the side effect is severely shortened engine life (bye bye piston rings, hello blow by and rebuild job). Its everyone's choice, obviously, since you paid for the car, but if you want advice to maintain your engine to its max possible life expectancy, do NOT let car run at idle for those 5 or 10 minutes, instead start it up and drive off, don't go crazy and rev to 5000+ rpm, but a good 3000 or 4000 peak before auto or manual shift will lessen wear on engine (as opposed to 1000 rpm idling when oil is hardly circulating and metal is scraping metal over and over).
I have a 2001 Honda Accord Ex and I was recently in an accident in December. After my accident I noticed a noise (sounds like metal scraping on the pavement) when I was backing up, it then became more constant when accelerating and braking. I had my car fixed (body damage, the exhaust system was bumped and was low to the ground) about a week ago. At first I did not hear the noise, but now about two days ago, I noticed the noise, pretty consistent and loud now when I drive. Any ideas as to what this is? I thought it was a brake problem, but it gets louder as I accelerate. I would appreciate any input, thanks!
Some beliefs about warming up come from carburetor days when a very rich mixture at idle cold caused unburned gasoline to wash down the oil on the walls when the engine was cold causing friction of rings against walls.
The fuel injection systems control the cold mixtures much better. But the goal is to get the walls heat up to an efficiently-burning temperature to minimize friction. Driving the car gently heats everything up faster due to the engine working rather than loafing at idle.
I don't tip the accelerator more than a minimum when I first start out. I give the ca
did you ever find out what was going on with your car? I have an 01, EX V6 that makes a consistent scraping (like a metal hanger dragging on the ground) when I brake, accelerate, back up, etc. Any ideas?
Some beliefs about warming up come from carburetor days when a very rich mixture at idle cold caused unburned gasoline to wash down the oil on the cold walls until the engine warmed enough to pull off the choke plate. This caused friction of rings against oiless walls.
The fuel injection systems control the cold mixtures much better. But the goal is to get the walls heated up to an efficiently-burning temperature to minimize friction. Driving the car gently heats everything up faster due to the engine working rather than loafing at idle.
I don't tip the accelerator more than a minimum when I first start out. I give the car about 30 seconds to get the oil hitting the warm walls and then I go. Usually don't even have to touch the accelerator to back out of space and get out the parking lot drives...
Your argument assumes that oil-pump pressure at idle with cold, thick oil is significantly less than the oil pressure which occurs at normal engine speed and temperature. Do you know that?
My own guess would be just the opposite - that cold, thick oil would cause higher-than-normal oil pressure.
I'm doubtful that oil circulation is much of an issue either. If oil is too thick to run out of the bearings, is it that important to have fresh oil running in? Certainly, good circulation is important for cooling internal engine hot-spots but when surfaces are cold then only a sufficiently thick oil film should be required to protect parts, no?
I'd guess that the truth of this issue is very complicated and highly variable. There probably is no "one best" answer for all engine parts with any oil in any ambient temperature. I'd also guess than engine warm-up or not makes little difference overall, hence the lack of manufacturer recommendations in this regard.
Of course, this is all mere speculation and I could be dead wrong. =8-)
I don't know about fuel injection but, as you stated, warming up seems to be a good thing for cars with carburetor. My previous Honda (with carburetor) lasted 18 years until it was totaled in an accident. And I always waited a few minutes on a cold day for the engine to warm up.
I have a 2003 Accord. In the past few weeks, my driver-side door could not be locked when temperature go down to below -20c (It is normal temperature for this time of year in here –Ottawa, Canada). When this happens, the door could be opened and closed, but couldn't be locked. The "unlocked door" light is on and the door could be pushed open from inside the car without holding the handle.
When I brought to the dealership on Wednesday, they put some lubrication but did not solve the problem. The problem happened again yesterday. So I brought in today and was told that they can't do any thing since they couldn't reproduce the problem.
Have an 04 accord sedan 4cyl that makes more noises than my daughter's 93 civic!!! The passenger door buzzes and the sunroof rattles. The windshield pops and the headliner creaks! Has been to the dealer 5 different times. Always comes back with the same noise and sometimes a new one! Worst purchase I ever made!
whether you warm the engine up or not. But it DOES waste gas and creates unnecessary emissions. And the manual states that you should just drive off unless it's insanely cold. My mom warmed her car up and it ran 260K. I don't and I've never had a problem. So I just drive off as recommended. Just like I change my oil at 10,000 as recommended.
I believe the first part is wrong. When the car is shut down, most of the oil drains into the pan while it is still warm and viscous. Very little remains on the edges of the channels and grooves in the block and inside the cylinders. Until the oil is fully liquified and moving through the block, there is insufficient oil in the system to make any serious oil pressure. This theory is also supported by what (very) little I remember from High School physics - without all the oil moving through the system, there is insufficient fluid to create hydraulic pressure. Hence-low oil pressure at start up b/c the thicker oil is all clumped together in the pan. This is supported anecdotally as well by my observance of pressure gauges in my '85 Ford Mustang GT, which showed low pressure increasing as the car warmed up.
I'm looking to buy a used Accord, most likely a 1998-2000, at around $10,000. After searching through these forums, the feedback regarding the auto tranny on the V-6 scares me. How bad is this tranny? It appears that the tranny is a lemon. Would I be better off buying a 4-cylinder with that auto transmission or straight shift?
I have owned 8 Honda I4 and V6 since 1986 to 2005 Accord hybrid now and have never got any problems with tranny. My son's EX 2003 V6 got recalled for the tranny but just a prevention. Do not be scared by somebody who has never driven/ owned a Honda.
Cold, thick oil always showed HIGHER oil pressure on the gauges in my 1947 Studebaker and 1950 and '53 Plymouths. Those were the last cars I had with oil pressure gauges.
"Idiot lights" replaced those gauges decades ago, so you don't see any indication of oil pressure unless it drops so low that a light comes on.
No, the cars I mentioned weren't new when I had them--I'm not THAT old :-)).......Richard
Just picked up my new EX-L w/NAV yesterday. Love it so far, except for the fact that I can't seem to decrease the brightness of the "upper display" (where radio/temperature info are shown). This is particularly annoying when driving at night.
Is it possible to adjust the brightness of that display? Neither the instrument panel brightness control (behind the steering wheel) nor the nav display brighness control seems to do anything to it.
"Then I need to retract my statement. What kind of drive to work do the cars get?"
To answer your question my commute is 35 miles. 5 of those miles are done on small 2 lane roads with minimal traffic and only a couple of stop signs and 2 red lights. Of the remaining 30 miles, 20 miles of the commute is on a 4 lane highway with no redlights, minimal traffic, and a 65MPH speed limit. The remaining 10 miles is still on a 4 lane with a little more congestion during the morning and evening rush hour but still very little stop and go. Add to that the fact that I usually drive to work during "off-peak" hours and the wear and tear on our cars due to our commute is almost non-existent.
I have lots of sympathy for you with this kind of nasty problem.
I had the same problem in an old Camry, but it was caused by a fender-bender accident. In my case the wires inside the door panel was pinched by the damaged door against the frame and slowly discharged the battery. Dealers and repair shops pulled their hair out but could not find it. A friend of my used his logic and found the problem, taped up the wires and it was fixed.
You should trace your memory and figure out what you had done to the car. Look at the wires around the areas that you had worked on, or had been impacted by foreign objects etc... find any exposed, chafed, pinched wires, connectors ....
I have an 05' EXV6/Auto Sedan with the same exact problem. I've noticed a few drops of transmission fluid under the driver side, near the front wheel. I have confirmed that it is transmission fluid. Did you get uour problem resolved? I'm due to take mine in Monday. Thanks in advance.
I change oil at 10,000 miles as recommended, but let the car "warm up" for a minute in the morning before driving. Note -- a minute! (--unless I'm in a hurry and running late).
ramida
P.S. I personally think that changing oil at 3,000 miles is unneccessary and a waste of time and money.
By the way, I changed my 03 Accord's air filter yesterday and was very much surprised at the car now running dramatically smooth -- no more horsey acceleration (at least the jerky acceleration if you ease off the gas and then on the gas again, is now less than annoying, but it's still there -- a design flaw in my opinion that needs fixing.)
I loan OBD from AutoZone and checked out the problem code is "P1164" and the message is "Fuel Air Metering". AutoZone can not give out what it is and advise me to check with dealer. I ask one Honda dealer. They do NOT want to tell what's P1164 mean and only they do the diagnostic to dientify where is the problem with $120 cost. Terrible!! I follow up the post message here to tighten fule cap and disconect power over 30 seconds. Restart engine and drive, no engine check lamp on again. But I am still worry about I haven't fixed the problem. I hope I can get suggestion from expert here.
If Honda uses the same codes across the board, code P1164 may mean an oxygen sensor is malfunctioning. Of course it may also mean that the wiring from the oxygen sensor has a problem, but that can't be determined through a discussion. I'm surprised the folks at Autozone did not tell you this and then give you a price to replace the oxygen sensor.
Do you respond to your Navigation System's "Lawyer Screen" by pressing the on-screen button while your vehicle is outdoors? Or do you do so before you drive out of a garage? If your GPS sensor is not "seeing" a satellite when you press that button, you will probably experience the kind of incorrect positioning that you've described.
You've stated "In the nav's diagnostic menu (map + Menu + Cancel), under the "B-Cam" it says "Error Active"." You'd probably be well advised to avoid self-diagnosis of the Navigation System.
Be aware, the 6th Gen 4cyl w/autotrans were also plagued with tranny issues. The '00 & '01 were given an extended 100K warranty, other years were on a case by case basis. If you check around on other forums, you'll see the problem is still ongoing as more miles are accumulating on these vehicles.
My '01 failed at 111K, with fluid changes every 20K using only the Honda ATF-Z1. Fortunately, Honda did goodwill a portion of the reman expense,
but in my opinion, they should have recalled the whole batch.
If your the type of person who only keeps a vehicle for a short time, you may not experience the problem. But I won't recommend 6th Gen autos to anyone who keeps their vehicles for the longhaul.
I'm currently at 137K and the reman is still performing well. I'm now draining/refilling the trans fluid every 10K or less. I've lost faith in Hondas transmissions. They still seem capable of building a long-lived engine though. No oil consumption or leakage since new and still loves cruising the interstates. I'm still getting better than 35mpg @70mph on long trips.
The guy of AutoZone checked their system by P1164 code and didn't find what's the mean. But the OBD scan machine display "Fuel Air Metering". To reset by disconect power is a good method? Any negative effect or trouble to machine?
I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 Coupe with 110,00 miles. The SRS warning light just came on. I think there is a Honda TSB on this. Anyone know how to get it (TSB-02-034)
You may erase the code, but if the problem is still there the code will reappear after a couple of cycles of turning the engine on and off. Disconnecting the battery should not harm the engine. The only negative for disconnecting the battery is re-entering the security code for the radio and re-programming the preselected stations.
I just bought a 2005 Accord EX. When driving 45MPH with the back window down (it happens if I have just one back window down or both), I hear a loud sound (seems like it is due to the wind). When I get up to 60MPH the sound is so loud it even affects the radio. When the windows are closed I don't hear the noise (and I don't hear it when the front windows are down). Has anyone else had this problem? Is it all 2005 Accord Ex's that do this or is it just mine?
I had a 1994 Accord EX, and didn't have this problem with that car?
I have recently bought a used 1997 honda accord ex. It has around 89,000 on it and seemed to be in great shape. I had a little mishap starting it in the cold (-20 F) it misfired and caused the check engine light to come on. I was assured that this was not a problem and had the light reset. Now abotu 2 weeks later I was driving it and noticed the temp. gauge was in the red, and the car kept revving from 1k rpms to about 2k rpms over and over in periods of about 3 seconds. I checked the coolant and it was bone dry, so I filled it but the check engine light came on and it keeps revving and the temp gauge is high as well. what do i do?
It appears that you have a leak somewhere in the cooling system. Have the cooling system pressure checked. Check the oil in the crankcase by pulling the dipstick. Look for coolant in the oil. A compression test might be a good idea. This will tell you if you have a head gasket problem. When you pull the spark plugs for the compression test, look at the plugs. If one looks VERY clean, that might be the cylinder that is getting coolant into it causing steam and a misfire. Let us know what you find with this vehicle. Lots of luck. -----Greg
Our 2003 Accord has this issue. It sounds like a helicopter. I usually pull the two rear windows down just about an inch. With the drivers window down about an inch, (and the heater on), this will give you some air circulation without the noise. YES, it is VERY annoying! Our 2000 Accord did not have this issue. New and improved is not always better! -----Greg
yes its just resonance--simple physics... all cars have a natural vibration point and the speed at which it happens is different for every shape of car. however im sure there are some cars that are worse than others.
Daughters car: Unsure of what happened...apparently made pop?,clunk?, or bang?then died. Wouldn't start..when tried to start, started smoked. Replaced starter. engine started, ran a minute or so popping through carb, (deep pop) as if running under water. Almost sounds as if timing jumped 180 out. Tried to start couple more times....now just clicks.
Honest advice: Give that 1985 car to somebody and buy a brand new Accord for your daughter. Accord is now so cheap, interest rate is 1.9%. She deserves a new Accord now Ma'am.
Make sure whoever changes your oil filter (any vehicle) fills it full of oil first giving it plenty of time to fully soak into the filter material so when the engine is started, the oil is already there vs the top end waiting around for it.
Jiffy-Lube balked at my request to have them stand my car on it's rear bumper so that they could screw on a full oil filter. Removing the engine and rotating it 90-degrees is still an option but Jiffy-Lube wants to charge more than $24.95 for that service.
I'm disappointed in how today's nugget of automotive wisdom worked out. Perhaps driver's with vertically mounted oil filters will have more luck.
Comments
Has anybody seen this before? I haven't gone to the dealer yet because I'm afraid he's going to tell me that it's out of warranty. I was wondering if this is a safety issue because the door locks cannot even be pulled up by hand. If someone were in the back seat, they would be stuck inside the car until it warmed up. Although that scenario is unlikely, since the problem only occurs when the car hasn't been driven recently, still I wonder if this can be considered a safety issue. Would Honda cover this after the 36,000 warranty is up?
Thanks,
Rich
Then I need to retract my statement. What kind of drive to work do the cars get? If I remember, you're in Atlanta and you really don't have winter -- just super hot in summer traffic. You're more likely to detriorate the oil in hot summer traffic than with cool weather condensation.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Any clues as to what the problem is, so that I know what to expect before going to the dealer?
Thanks
After much headscratching it turn out the problem was a stiff trunk latch!!
When trying to get the trunk open with the key, I could turn it a bit but not enough to open so would use the release by the driver's seat. Once done would just slam the trunk down. It would stay down but, unknown to me, the lock was not fully "engaged" so the lid was not *fully* down.
Critically, this meant the little light inside the trunk was still on. Although it's a very small drain on the battery, being on *all* the time (even when I wasn't driving) was enough to cause problems.
If I ran the car every day (i.e. during the work week) all was OK, but I tend not to use it at the weekend, so on Monday morning the battery had be drained just enough to not be able to start (Monday morning are bad enough without having to cope with a dead car).
I only replaced the battery once before recognising the "Monday morning" pattern.
The fix was to lubricate the trunk lock so it worked easily and fully engaged the lock when the trunk lid was closed, thus turning off the internal trunk light!!
Of course your problem may not be the trunk lock, but look for some small drain like a license plate light (or short circuit)
Hope this helps......
Now when you turn your lights on, the inner trunk lights are supposed to turn on. BTW these lights are a waste of money. I personally don’t have bulbs in these sockets.
My car
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/ph97accord/back-car-naphi.- gif
As far as your center light I would change the bulb or get the socket fixed, check the wiring.
If you look at 90-93 accord and Acura TLs both the outer and inter trunk lights, light up when braking. 97 Accords don’t.
Well, first off, at low engine speeds (idling, < 1500 rpm) oil, thick or thin, is not being circulated very well. Oil circulation in the engine relies heavily on the speed of the engine itself, as it spins faster, it is able to forcefully ciculate the oil better and further into the depths and heights of the engine parts. Cold oil will barely leave the pan when idling, so warming up a car at idle in very cold weather will serve to have the water/antifreeze mixture in the radiator and heater core heated well, so you can have the heater on and be toasty inside, but the side effect is severely shortened engine life (bye bye piston rings, hello blow by and rebuild job). Its everyone's choice, obviously, since you paid for the car, but if you want advice to maintain your engine to its max possible life expectancy, do NOT let car run at idle for those 5 or 10 minutes, instead start it up and drive off, don't go crazy and rev to 5000+ rpm, but a good 3000 or 4000 peak before auto or manual shift will lessen wear on engine (as opposed to 1000 rpm idling when oil is hardly circulating and metal is scraping metal over and over).
The fuel injection systems control the cold mixtures much better. But the goal is to get the walls heat up to an efficiently-burning temperature to minimize friction. Driving the car gently heats everything up faster due to the engine working rather than loafing at idle.
I don't tip the accelerator more than a minimum when I first start out. I give the ca
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
did you ever find out what was going on with your car? I have an 01, EX V6 that makes a consistent scraping (like a metal hanger dragging on the ground) when I brake, accelerate, back up, etc. Any ideas?
The fuel injection systems control the cold mixtures much better. But the goal is to get the walls heated up to an efficiently-burning temperature to minimize friction. Driving the car gently heats everything up faster due to the engine working rather than loafing at idle.
I don't tip the accelerator more than a minimum when I first start out. I give the car about 30 seconds to get the oil hitting the warm walls and then I go. Usually don't even have to touch the accelerator to back out of space and get out the parking lot drives...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Your argument assumes that oil-pump pressure at idle with cold, thick oil is significantly less than the oil pressure which occurs at normal engine speed and temperature. Do you know that?
My own guess would be just the opposite - that cold, thick oil would cause higher-than-normal oil pressure.
I'm doubtful that oil circulation is much of an issue either. If oil is too thick to run out of the bearings, is it that important to have fresh oil running in? Certainly, good circulation is important for cooling internal engine hot-spots but when surfaces are cold then only a sufficiently thick oil film should be required to protect parts, no?
I'd guess that the truth of this issue is very complicated and highly variable. There probably is no "one best" answer for all engine parts with any oil in any ambient temperature. I'd also guess than engine warm-up or not makes little difference overall, hence the lack of manufacturer recommendations in this regard.
Of course, this is all mere speculation and I could be dead wrong. =8-)
When I brought to the dealership on Wednesday, they put some lubrication but did not solve the problem. The problem happened again yesterday. So I brought in today and was told that they can't do any thing since they couldn't reproduce the problem.
What can I do?
How may we help you?
"Idiot lights" replaced those gauges decades ago, so you don't see any indication of oil pressure unless it drops so low that a light comes on.
No, the cars I mentioned weren't new when I had them--I'm not THAT old :-)).......Richard
Is it possible to adjust the brightness of that display? Neither the instrument panel brightness control (behind the steering wheel) nor the nav display brighness control seems to do anything to it.
Thanks,
-mike
To answer your question my commute is 35 miles. 5 of those miles are done on small 2 lane roads with minimal traffic and only a couple of stop signs and 2 red lights. Of the remaining 30 miles, 20 miles of the commute is on a 4 lane highway with no redlights, minimal traffic, and a 65MPH speed limit. The remaining 10 miles is still on a 4 lane with a little more congestion during the morning and evening rush hour but still very little stop and go. Add to that the fact that I usually drive to work during "off-peak" hours and the wear and tear on our cars due to our commute is almost non-existent.
I had the same problem in an old Camry, but it was caused by a fender-bender accident. In my case the wires inside the door panel was pinched by the damaged door against the frame and slowly discharged the battery. Dealers and repair shops pulled their hair out but could not find it. A friend of my used his logic and found the problem, taped up the wires and it was fixed.
You should trace your memory and figure out what you had done to the car. Look at the wires around the areas that you had worked on, or had been impacted by foreign objects etc... find any exposed, chafed, pinched wires, connectors ....
Good luck.
I have an 05' EXV6/Auto Sedan with the same exact problem. I've noticed a few drops of transmission fluid under the driver side, near the front wheel. I have confirmed that it is transmission fluid. Did you get uour problem resolved? I'm due to take mine in Monday. Thanks in advance.
- Drew
ramida
P.S. I personally think that changing oil at 3,000 miles is unneccessary and a waste of time and money.
By the way, I changed my 03 Accord's air filter yesterday and was very much surprised at the car now running dramatically smooth -- no more horsey acceleration (at least the jerky acceleration if you ease off the gas and then on the gas again, is now less than annoying, but it's still there -- a design flaw in my opinion that needs fixing.)
Thank you very much!!!
Do you respond to your Navigation System's "Lawyer Screen" by pressing the on-screen button while your vehicle is outdoors? Or do you do so before you drive out of a garage? If your GPS sensor is not "seeing" a satellite when you press that button, you will probably experience the kind of incorrect positioning that you've described.
You've stated "In the nav's diagnostic menu (map + Menu + Cancel), under the "B-Cam" it says "Error Active"." You'd probably be well advised to avoid self-diagnosis of the Navigation System.
My '01 failed at 111K, with fluid changes every 20K using only the Honda ATF-Z1. Fortunately, Honda did goodwill a portion of the reman expense,
but in my opinion, they should have recalled the whole batch.
If your the type of person who only keeps a vehicle for a short time, you may not experience the problem. But I won't recommend 6th Gen autos to anyone who keeps their vehicles for the longhaul.
I'm currently at 137K and the reman is still performing well. I'm now draining/refilling the trans fluid every 10K or less. I've lost faith in Hondas transmissions. They still seem capable of building a long-lived engine though. No oil consumption or leakage since new and still loves cruising the interstates. I'm still getting better than 35mpg @70mph on long trips.
or have any suggestions?
I just bought a 2005 Accord EX. When driving 45MPH with the back window down (it happens if I have just one back window down or both), I hear a loud sound (seems like it is due to the wind). When I get up to 60MPH the sound is so loud it even affects the radio. When the windows are closed I don't hear the noise (and I don't hear it when the front windows are down). Has anyone else had this problem? Is it all 2005 Accord Ex's that do this or is it just mine?
I had a 1994 Accord EX, and didn't have this problem with that car?
Please help....suggestions, ideas etc..etc.
Sue
Open one of the front windows and the sound should go away. Basically, you have turned the air in your car into a giant drum.
I'm disappointed in how today's nugget of automotive wisdom worked out. Perhaps driver's with vertically mounted oil filters will have more luck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,