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2004 Accord EX purchased 16 months ago now requires jump starting after minor sit time. Battery indicator shows "need charge". Dealer advised every thing checks out (tech did not comment on why the battery shows needs charging).
Dealer recommends: pulling a power fuse when not regularly driving vehicle (one service writer advised disconnecting the battery cable, tech corrected her on that, bad idea). No solution to problem. Something else is wrong.
Charged battery twice for a total of 8 hours, still shows battery needs charge on sight glass window (top of battery).
I'd recommend trying another dealership. How many times have you had the car in for this problem? Have you ever replaced the battery? If so, then I'd suggest contacting Honda of America.
I'd make sure that I mentioned the advice you received from your local dealer (about either pulling a fuse or disconnecting the battery). That's pretty much completely unacceptable in my book.
I have a new Honda Accord LX 2005. I notice a problem with the audio level dropping on certain radio stations. After initially tuning to a particular station, after about 15 seconds, the audio level drops considerably. Has anyone experienced this problem? Thanks.
True, the Accord power outlet only works with the engine running or the key in Accessory position. My Toyota Highlander is the same way. I've seen some cars with "hot" power outlets, but it is not universal. Iagree with you about the heated mirrors. They are standard on Canadian Accords. Honda must not plan to sell cars North of Mason Dixon line.
I own a 2004 Accord V6 which does not always start on the first try. The problem occurs about 1 out of 4 starts and only when the car is cold. The problem is as follows. On the first attempt to start the car it will turn over for several seconds, but not fire up. The car always starts normally on the second try. I never touch the gas pedal during the starting process.
I own a 2000 Accord V6, but have never experienced a starting problem. That car always starts immediately on the first try.
I am primarily concerned about engine and starter wear and plan to have the Honda service people look at the car.
Has anyone else experienced a similar starting problem with a 2004 V6? If so, has the problem been resolved and what repair was required to fix the problem?
Well we took our 2003 Accord V6 4 door to Carmax for some repairs. We bought it used but got their warranty since it had over 50k on it when we got it..... In any case they had to take it to Honda to get one of our issues resolved. The car was pinging when you first started to drive it and I gave Carmax the Service Issue number that I got off this site! Thanks!
Well while it was at Honda, Carmax asked them to look at the rattle. Well Honda said they could not hear it and have had NO other complaints of rattles. Could this be true? I live in Birmingham AL and we only have 2 Honda dealerships and they are not even close. If you live anywhere in Metro Birmingham you probably would take your car to this dealership. I know they have had this issue before....
In any case Carmax still has the car (Day 8) and has insulated and put foam everywhere they can think of. They did tell us that when a passenger is in the back seat the rattle does not occur. Anyone heard of this before? Carmax has been great and luckily we have a loaner to drive but I can't imagine why Honda won't help them resolve this issue.
From what I can tell this Honda dealership has been downright rude to Carmax and despite Carmax making an appointment with them they put the car off for 3 extra days saying they were too busy.
This suggestion may not fix your specific rattle problem, but it is worth a try. I have had noises which first appeared to be inside the door and turned out to be caused by dry and noisy weather stripping. Try applying a silicon based lubricant to the weather stripping on all doors and door jams. Spray the lubricant on a paper towel and rub the damp towel on the weather stripping. If your lucky, this will resolve the noise.
Does your car have leather seats? If so, the leather in the back seat likely does not get used much and may need some moisture treatment. Your body oil typically provides some moisture to the leather, so the less used back seats dry out faster. A local leather furniture distributer told me a product named "Leather Vital" is very good for stiff car leather. You can locate the product via Google. Good luck!
Thanks for the feedback, 77hchbck. I've owned a Honda in the past, '93 accord, and I should have kept it. I always thought the cars were bullet-proof but I have to admit that the tranny scares me. I've been looking for an Accord with a straight shift but I find them to be a rare model.
Yes, I tend to keep my cars well past 100k miles. My brother-in-law has a '94 accord with nearly 200k miles on the ticker; it's an automatic to boot--and has never given him a day's trouble. The thoughts of a Honda NOT being reliable just doesn't seem right.
my '97 accord was fixed-- the revving overheating issue was due to a pressure differential in the coolent tank-- the coolant wouldnt go through the radiator. thanks for the advice you were dead on! peace
after a check engine light warning, i had the front(primary) o2 sensor replaced in my car. Unfortunately, upon leaving the repair shop the check engine light came back on with the same code. The mechanic said he couldn't think of anything more to do, nor could he find a replacement for the auxilliary o2 sensor. that was a few weeks ago. The light goes on and off, and I am getting horrendous mpg (18, instead of usual 25).
I have had an '05 4-door LX for 3 weeks. I heard a rattle coming from the windshield. It was only there when it was cold. I did some research online and found thru this website I was not the only one.
After a couple of visits to the dealer, I got it fixed. They finally heard the noise and decided it was "left upper bulk head hitting strut tower." The repair was to "increase the gap between bulk head and tower."
I didn't hear the noise, but I just picked it up an hour ago. Hopefully, they have fixed it.
Bought an '04 LX V6 last fall. Killed the last rattle today, 4,000 miles later. What have I learned?
The rattles and the fixes:
1) driver door -- clunky rattle on moderately rough roads; remove panel, place adhesive felt where wiring bundle rattled against door sheet metal.
2) passenger door -- buzzing noise (BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ) vanished with window slightly down, all kinds of speeds and surfaces; remove panel and, after much trial and error, determine that portion of window track was loosely connected to door -- install nylon washer and re-tighten.
3) glove compartment door -- just a plain rattle; a few small bits of felt.
4) passenger door rattle, part two -- loose tinkling rattle; took car to dealer for new chrome strip along outside top of door/base of window.
5) inner dash rattle -- just plain rattle, but only when turning to the right on a rough road, generally with a bit of an incline; remove glove compartment and identify a relay that was able to slightly move in its bracket until a little duct tape was applied.
The lessons:
Some of these were HARD to figure out (# 2 and # 5); all were EASY to fix, once identified (maybe with the exception of #4, which the dealer happily fixed).
While poking in all these places, nothing seemed obviously of cheap or inferior quality (unlike what I have seen hidden in my Forester), and yet a new car shouldn't rattle. So, I'm not sure if I learned anything about the overall build quality of the car one way or the other.
Finally, I am certain that my type A personality was extraordinarily provoked by these rattles. Is that my issue or the car's? I don't know. I was never going to be able to convince a dealer to mess with several of these, in my opinion, and I didn't even want to waste the time trying. If type A's buy Accords (yep), and if Accords are generally thought of as quiet and reliable, then perhaps it's no suprise that a fair number of folks on these boards complain of rattles.
What kept me at it as long as it took was the fact that I love the way the car drives, but I hated the rattles.
If I can de-rattle the car, you can too. The question I'm still pondering is why can't Honda?
It is to bad Honda hasn’t figured out all of this by now. The rattle issues have been springing up in the 7th gen Accord since it was released back in late 02 and is very Un-Honda like given the previous generations rattle free experiences (tranny issues not withstanding).
I am still contemplating an 05 Accord but this rattle issue for an automobile already in its third year since redesign has shied me away more then once. I just hope they don’t keep releasing TSB’s or having the consumer fix their own given Accord sales are already falling below that of last year which was again below that of the year prior
Anyway, I wanted to thank you for your post as it does appear that there is hope for those that are experiencing rattles today and those that may experience them in the future with a bit of reverse engineering. It is just strange that a supposed HQ $19,000 - $27,000 automobile would rattle is all?
I have test driven the 05s, and I'm not impressed. The same problems I have with my 03 are still there! These Honda engineers are lousy, to say the least.
Shy away from this so-called 7th generation Accords -- they're low quality cars.
I have owned 10 plus Honda motorcyles and autos for 40 years. All of them have run excellently WITHOUT NOISES (RATTLES) as they would have thought they might have never got other great chances to run at full speed like wild horses.
However, very honestly, one Accord Coupe V6 EX 2003 I bought for my son had some minor rattling noise but I brought it right back to the dealership during the 36K miles/ 3 years warranty and they fixed it immediately with no charge.
Now, my Accord Hybrid with 255 HP runs like a King on the roads with extremely flamboyant "rattling boom, bang...noises" (...of rock, country, blue, AM, FM, XM, CD, etc). One early morning on the way to work, I suddenly did hear some rattling noises in the front passenger area. I was deadly nervous and was about to bring up that serious issue to the attention of our contributors in our forum of "Accord's Silly Problems and Creative Solutions". Luckily, I finally found out that "rattling noise" came from my vibrating hard plastic box of cookies that I brought to work for my quick breakfast. I almost died instantly while "reigning on my fast HAH mobile throne".
I purchased a 2005 EX V6 with everything but the NAVI and could not be more delighted. I found this board right after having purchased the car. The stories of noises and things made me really nervous. I turned down the radio and drove over rough roads, but I heard no rattles until it happened.
There was a definitive rattle coming from the windshield area. Immediately I tried to recall every post I'd read here regarding rattles. After a few more miles and getting a little bit pissed off, I realized that I'd left the driver's side visor unfastened. The plastic was bumping against the clip. I clipped the thing into place and laughed to myself about it. The car has not yet reached 1000 miles, but I had to relay this story. I couldn't be more pleased with the vehicle. It is as tight as a drum.
Some of the leather used in the '03 EX models is crap and your lucky if you didn't get that to add on to your problems. My driver seat has turned blue and very, very dirty. No, my jeans were not the culprit. The leather is cheap and the problem needs some attention. Oh, wait. Let's let Honda fix their deadly problems first so we can at least be assured we will be able to drive a Honda with the leather seats in the future.
I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX V-6 Automatic. When the car changes gears around 50-60 mph speed, engine produces a louder than normal humming type engine noise and extra vibration in the ride is felt. If the speed is increased to above 60 mph the vibration and noise is reduced to normal levels. Does anyone else experience this. If so then please explain. Is this normal or does it need to be looked at by the dealership.
When out to dinner tonight with the wife and kids and turned on the radio. I selected the XM and it did not come on but displayed a "loading" message. Wasn't sure what that meant so I selected the FM to make sure the radio was working and it did. Selected the XM again and got the same "loading" display. My wife said she though it was because the month was up for the free XM and I said that must be it (even though it worked this morning - When I got home I looked at the sticker price that I kept and said XM is free for 3 months).
After coming home from the restaurant I turned the radio on and selected the XM and it worked fine.
Has this happened to anyone else and does anyone have any idea why this happened?
My old 95 Accord burns about 1 quart of oil for every 1000 - 2000 miles. Does the oil treatment stops the oil burning? My mechanic advised me to use that engine oil treatment to minimize oil burning. Thanks.
I can't imagine that an engine oil flush product such as AMSOIL's would hurt your engine or be that expensive, but I think it is only generally needed if you are changing to synthetic oil. Unless your mechanic is worried for some reason about sludge build up?
Same thing happened to me a couple of months ago. I drive very little, but really like XM and subscribed for 3 years which reduces the average monthly amount to just over $8.00.
When I turned on the radio, the XM showed "Loading" with no sound for almost an hour and I switched to much inferior FM radio that worked fine.
Later, I tried the XM and it worked flawlessly and has been working every time I've used it since.
After my "Loading" experience, I called XM's 800 phone number and they said something about repositioning satellites or some such--hard to know what the problem was.
My guess is that it was a relatively brief anomaly and nothing is wrong with our radios.........Richard
I have test driven the 05s, and I'm not impressed. The same problems I have with my 03 are still there! These Honda engineers are lousy, to say the least.
Shy away from this so-called 7th generation Accords -- they're low quality cars.
------------------------------------------
Nonsense. Your car might be a lemon and that's unfortunate if the dealer can't fix the problems you're having.
Most current Accords are as good or better than anything offered by competitors.
Go buy a Ford and you'll wish you had your Honda back......Richard
How much mileage is on the engine? One of the ways engines burn oil is when the rings a frozen in the piston grooves. This prevents them from following the cylinder walls. One way to free the rings is to remove the spark plugs, (when the engine block is cold), and pour some penetrating oil into the cylinders, and let it sit there for a day or two, so that it will soak around the rings. After soaking, disable the ignition system, and with the spark plugs removed, crank the engine over to remove the excess oil. Replace the spark plugs and start the engine. The engine will smoke for a couple of minutes. A good product for this process is Marvel Mystery Oil. You can get this at Pep Boys, K-Mart or any auto store. Put some of this product in your fuel, (4 ounces to each 10 gallons). Once you re-start the engine, take the car out for a ride. Get the engine up to normal operating temperature. After this short ride, drain the engine oil and change the filter. You might want to put the engine on frequent oil and filter changes, (every 3,000 miles). Just a suggestion.
If you change your engine oil and filter every 3,000 miles you should not need an engine flush. Rather than "flush" the engine, I would put the engine on a schedule of frequent oil and filter changes. This will clean up the engine. If you have "sludge" in the engine, that is another story. Using a flush on a very dirty engine could clog the oil passages. A mild cleaner would be Marvel oil. You could put some of this product in the oil prior to an oil change, and then change the oil and filter. We have two Honda vehicles, (2004 Civic and a 2003 4 cylinder Accord). The Accord has 44,000 + miles on the clock and it is only 24 months old. I have changed the oil and filter on that vehicle every 3,000 miles. When I pull the dip stick just prior to the scheduled oil and filter change, the oil is still clear, (just like a new engine). This vehicle sees a lot of stop and go driving, and idling.
In the past my accord wouldn't start during the summer in hot temperatures 28 C +, meaning after i drove it for awhile then let it sit for 30 minutes, the engine would crank then come off immediately. I'd either have to wait 15 minutes to restart it or continue cranking and apply gas to keep the idle up, or the only way to get it started is to treat it like it's flooded and get it started with the foot on the accelerator and then continue to apply throttle. On initial cold or cool restarts it's fine. The car is fine otherwise. It has new plugs, wires and even the main relay, alternator and battery. Recently this problem is even happening in cold tempertures like -2C, even in colder temperatures on the restarts its idling low. I don't think this is sensor related cuz the engine light is not coming on. It is temperature related with hot temperatures being worse. Does anyone about the recall for hot soaks, something about gas leaking??
Most people with engines nearing 190,000 miles of use would be extremely happy to add a quart of oil after only 2,000 miles. Its a damn sight cheaper that using MMO or other highly advertised "snake oil" of dubious value.
viet, don't do a thing. That kind of oil consumption is nothing for an engine with that many miles. Just keep an eye on the oil level and keep up the oil changes.
I have a '91 Accord "go to work" car that has a manual transmission. The car has 189k miles on it. About 3 weeks ago I had to drive to another location and took it. I went about 80-85 on the interstate (we live in Boise, ID) for about 40 miles and then got off and went into town. We got on the other side of the town and stopped at a redlight. When again moving there was a rough clunking noise/motion when the clutch is engaged. It is much more severe under load and is not gear dependent. Disengage the clutch it and the car feel fine. It is definitely a rotational type problem. It does't start out that way in the morning but by about 4-8 miles it is there. I had a coworker who is very much a Honda lover look at it and he couldn't figure it out...everything felt fine. I took it to a garage and they couldn't figure it out. Pretty much both said just keep on driving it until it gets severe enough to figure out the problem...in other words fly 'til fail.
Could it be a half shaft? A wheel bearing? If a bearing, then it shouldn't make any difference whether there is load on it or not.
Thanks Isellhondas. My mechanic advised me to add a pin of "oil treatment" to blend with the new oil (change) and I did it. The engine has ben running fine with full force of 145 HP and I have kept my eyes on it closely. In the next few months, I am going to do a major tune up on it including the timing belt change, 16 valves adjustment, new transmission oil, new coolant, new spark plugs, new air filter, new engine oil, new distributor wires, etc. I have done major/ minor tune ups on periodic maintenance so this car of almost 200K miles has never failed me once and the MPG is still same as the day one. On highways, it still runs beautifully.
Also, I used to drive a LX 92 (now I gave it to my Dad and it still runs). Immediately after a major tune up years ago, the engine sounded like NEW, so smooth, so quiet. I am honest. All the other joints, shocks, doors...of that LX 92 worn out but the engine was still in pretty much good shape. It was amazing.
Now, my other question is my brother in law advised me I should change the "transmission oil filter" when I change transmission oil too. Is it correct? I usually change the (automatic) transmision oil every year or 20 miles or less. However, probably changing the transmission oil is difficult and time-consuming so my mechanic did not change it. He was also reluctant to change the oil brake as it took so long time for him. But I did change my (brake) master cylinder on my LX 92 Accord and its brake worked fine again at 220K miles. Now that LX 92 is "history" but my Dad still drives it around. LOL.
All my cars are now Honda including my brand-new Accord hybrid 2005 at less than 1K miles, with a voice activated Navi. system that runs so fast as a state-of-the-art automobile. It "jumps" and runs fast as a Mustang of 300+ HP. I love it. May be next year or sooner I will sell this Accord 95 of 200K miles to buy another Accord Hybrid. It should be a very good and justified reason (or a good make-up reason) to my wife that I should buy another new Honda and...(and incurring more auto loans...). LOL.
Thank you very much guys for your valuable advices.
My alloy wheels on my 97 accord are showing corrosion, scuffs and chipped paint on the wheel caps, I would like to replace them with some aftermarket alloys. Asthesitics aside, what should I look for in new alloys in as far as construction (2-piece 3-piece casts etc.). In regards to improving or maintaining ride and handling is lighter better? How can I get a rough idea on the durability of the finish or resistance to scuffing (from curbs etc.) Can anyone recommend some good national chain retailers to get alloys at a competitive price?
The seat belt on the drivers side doesnt retract well anymore.
Often the belt gets caught in the door when I leave the car.
Perhaps this is normal wear and tear on the seat belt mechanism after so many miles. Just wondering if anyone has a similar problem and if anyone tried to repair this, roughly how much should it cost?
I have been visiting this forum for several months and thank all of you for sharing information. The following is only my personal experience.
Honda Accord LX is a great car and very reliable. Unfortunately I had a very bad experience with my previous 2003 Honda Accord LX, and perhaps I was very very unlucky. I bought this LX in May 2003 and asked the dealer to install an alarm system on it. Both the car and the alarm system had been running great. Last April (2004), all of sudden, the alarm went off and did not stop, the parking lights kept flashing after I pressed the LOCK button on my key, supposedly the alarm sounded only once, and the parking light flashed once. I had to press the UNLOCK button and locked the car manually. I brought the car back to the dealer several times and the dealer changed new parts (twice), charged the battery (once) and unplugged and plugged the alarm system. Finally I returned the car back to the dealer and got my money back. I guess that I was really unlucky. Since then, I have fear about installing any electrical accessories on new cars. I assume that a large number of people have installed alarm systems on their Accord, well
The next time when you have the timing belt/valve cover gastket done, ask your mechanic to take a look at the gourmets at the spark plugs. My Honda dealer noticed there was some oil at the spark plugs while the car was in for a timing belt work. They replaced the gourmets.
No more oil refill since then.
Your mechanic is right about the tranny oil filter. You can't replace the filter w/out deassemble the unit. Just drain and fill the tranny. That's what I have been doing for my 89LXi. The tranny is original with 204K miles and counting.
That was my brother in law who wants to show off his (amateurish) knowledge and experience about cars as he advised me to change the tranny filter. I used to have a LX 92 at 220K with original tranny and I just changed the tranny oil only and never touched the tranny filter. It has no problem and still runs. Now my 95 EX is approaching 200K miles and still runs at full power except oil burn.
Happened to my Accord 89 a few times. Try this. Dampen a sponge and spray Amour All on it. Pull the belt all the way out and wipe both sides of the belt with the sponge.
That's how I clean & protect all cars' my seat belts.
I am pretty certain that federal law mandates that seat belts are guaranteed against defect for the life of the car. Check your manual for coverage and have the Honda dealer inspect the problem.
Comments
Dealer recommends: pulling a power fuse when not regularly driving vehicle (one service writer advised disconnecting the battery cable, tech corrected her on that, bad idea). No solution to problem. Something else is wrong.
Charged battery twice for a total of 8 hours, still shows battery needs charge on sight glass window (top of battery).
Dealer is unaware of this problem.
I'd make sure that I mentioned the advice you received from your local dealer (about either pulling a fuse or disconnecting the battery). That's pretty much completely unacceptable in my book.
How can this be??? This power outlet isn't wired so that it is HOT?
This does not make sense....every car I have owned operates as the power Outlet being HOT.
How does one charge a cell phone when the car isnt ON.....oh I guess we are to leave the car running to charge a phone.....
Maybe someone else can share how to get around this...Also how much does one have to spend with Honda to get Heated exterior mirrors?
Very poor decision not to have heated mirrors.
My old Buick had them and worked....
I own a 2000 Accord V6, but have never experienced a starting problem. That car always starts immediately on the first try.
I am primarily concerned about engine and starter wear and plan to have the Honda service people look at the car.
Has anyone else experienced a similar starting problem with a 2004 V6? If so, has the problem been resolved and what repair was required to fix the problem?
Auburn63 - do you have any advice?
Well while it was at Honda, Carmax asked them to look at the rattle. Well Honda said they could not hear it and have had NO other complaints of rattles. Could this be true? I live in Birmingham AL and we only have 2 Honda dealerships and they are not even close. If you live anywhere in Metro Birmingham you probably would take your car to this dealership. I know they have had this issue before....
In any case Carmax still has the car (Day 8) and has insulated and put foam everywhere they can think of. They did tell us that when a passenger is in the back seat the rattle does not occur. Anyone heard of this before? Carmax has been great and luckily we have a loaner to drive but I can't imagine why Honda won't help them resolve this issue.
From what I can tell this Honda dealership has been downright rude to Carmax and despite Carmax making an appointment with them they put the car off for 3 extra days saying they were too busy.
Does your car have leather seats? If so, the leather in the back seat likely does not get used much and may need some moisture treatment. Your body oil typically provides some moisture to the leather, so the less used back seats dry out faster. A local leather furniture distributer told me a product named "Leather Vital" is very good for stiff car leather. You can locate the product via Google. Good luck!
Yes, I tend to keep my cars well past 100k miles. My brother-in-law has a '94 accord with nearly 200k miles on the ticker; it's an automatic to boot--and has never given him a day's trouble. The thoughts of a Honda NOT being reliable just doesn't seem right.
what's going on? please advise
After a couple of visits to the dealer, I got it fixed. They finally heard the noise and decided it was "left upper bulk head hitting strut tower." The repair was to "increase the gap between bulk head and tower."
I didn't hear the noise, but I just picked it up an hour ago. Hopefully, they have fixed it.
I hope this helps everyone else.
The rattles and the fixes:
1) driver door -- clunky rattle on moderately rough roads; remove panel, place adhesive felt where wiring bundle rattled against door sheet metal.
2) passenger door -- buzzing noise (BUZZ BUZZ BUZZ) vanished with window slightly down, all kinds of speeds and surfaces; remove panel and, after much trial and error, determine that portion of window track was loosely connected to door -- install nylon washer and re-tighten.
3) glove compartment door -- just a plain rattle; a few small bits of felt.
4) passenger door rattle, part two -- loose tinkling rattle; took car to dealer for new chrome strip along outside top of door/base of window.
5) inner dash rattle -- just plain rattle, but only when turning to the right on a rough road, generally with a bit of an incline; remove glove compartment and identify a relay that was able to slightly move in its bracket until a little duct tape was applied.
The lessons:
Some of these were HARD to figure out (# 2 and # 5); all were EASY to fix, once identified (maybe with the exception of #4, which the dealer happily fixed).
While poking in all these places, nothing seemed obviously of cheap or inferior quality (unlike what I have seen hidden in my Forester), and yet a new car shouldn't rattle. So, I'm not sure if I learned anything about the overall build quality of the car one way or the other.
Finally, I am certain that my type A personality was extraordinarily provoked by these rattles. Is that my issue or the car's? I don't know. I was never going to be able to convince a dealer to mess with several of these, in my opinion, and I didn't even want to waste the time trying. If type A's buy Accords (yep), and if Accords are generally thought of as quiet and reliable, then perhaps it's no suprise that a fair number of folks on these boards complain of rattles.
What kept me at it as long as it took was the fact that I love the way the car drives, but I hated the rattles.
If I can de-rattle the car, you can too. The question I'm still pondering is why can't Honda?
Out.
It is to bad Honda hasn’t figured out all of this by now. The rattle issues have been springing up in the 7th gen Accord since it was released back in late 02 and is very Un-Honda like given the previous generations rattle free experiences (tranny issues not withstanding).
I am still contemplating an 05 Accord but this rattle issue for an automobile already in its third year since redesign has shied me away more then once. I just hope they don’t keep releasing TSB’s or having the consumer fix their own given Accord sales are already falling below that of last year which was again below that of the year prior
Anyway, I wanted to thank you for your post as it does appear that there is hope for those that are experiencing rattles today and those that may experience them in the future with a bit of reverse engineering. It is just strange that a supposed HQ $19,000 - $27,000 automobile would rattle is all?
Good Luck and thank you.
Wayne R. Gerdes
Shy away from this so-called 7th generation Accords -- they're low quality cars.
ramida
It has to be remembered these are "problems" boards. They attract the people with problems.
In a perfect world, an Accord should have any kind of a rattle and most do not.
However, very honestly, one Accord Coupe V6 EX 2003 I bought for my son had some minor rattling noise but I brought it right back to the dealership during the 36K miles/ 3 years warranty and they fixed it immediately with no charge.
Now, my Accord Hybrid with 255 HP runs like a King on the roads with extremely flamboyant "rattling boom, bang...noises" (...of rock, country, blue, AM, FM, XM, CD, etc). One early morning on the way to work, I suddenly did hear some rattling noises in the front passenger area. I was deadly nervous and was about to bring up that serious issue to the attention of our contributors in our forum of "Accord's Silly Problems and Creative Solutions". Luckily, I finally found out that "rattling noise" came from my vibrating hard plastic box of cookies that I brought to work for my quick breakfast. I almost died instantly while "reigning on my fast HAH mobile throne".
There was a definitive rattle coming from the windshield area. Immediately I tried to recall every post I'd read here regarding rattles. After a few more miles and getting a little bit pissed off, I realized that I'd left the driver's side visor unfastened. The plastic was bumping against the clip. I clipped the thing into place and laughed to myself about it. The car has not yet reached 1000 miles, but I had to relay this story. I couldn't be more pleased with the vehicle. It is as tight as a drum.
When out to dinner tonight with the wife and kids and turned on the radio. I selected the XM and it did not come on but displayed a "loading" message. Wasn't sure what that meant so I selected the FM to make sure the radio was working and it did. Selected the XM again and got the same "loading" display. My wife said she though it was because the month was up for the free XM and I said that must be it (even though it worked this morning - When I got home I looked at the sticker price that I kept and said XM is free for 3 months).
After coming home from the restaurant I turned the radio on and selected the XM and it worked fine.
Has this happened to anyone else and does anyone have any idea why this happened?
Thanks.
thanks in advance for your inputs!
Coolant flushes are much more common.
Maybe someone else can add something?
When I turned on the radio, the XM showed "Loading" with no sound for almost an hour and I switched to much inferior FM radio that worked fine.
Later, I tried the XM and it worked flawlessly and has been working every time I've used it since.
After my "Loading" experience, I called XM's 800 phone number and they said something about repositioning satellites or some such--hard to know what the problem was.
My guess is that it was a relatively brief anomaly and nothing is wrong with our radios.........Richard
Shy away from this so-called 7th generation Accords -- they're low quality cars.
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Nonsense. Your car might be a lemon and that's unfortunate if the dealer can't fix the problems you're having.
Most current Accords are as good or better than anything offered by competitors.
Go buy a Ford and you'll wish you had your Honda back......Richard
Most people with engines nearing 190,000 miles of use would be extremely happy to add a quart of oil after only 2,000 miles. Its a damn sight cheaper that using MMO or other highly advertised "snake oil" of dubious value.
Some modern engines use that much oil when new.
Could it be a half shaft? A wheel bearing? If a bearing, then it shouldn't make any difference whether there is load on it or not.
Any ideas????
Also, I used to drive a LX 92 (now I gave it to my Dad and it still runs). Immediately after a major tune up years ago, the engine sounded like NEW, so smooth, so quiet. I am honest. All the other joints, shocks, doors...of that LX 92 worn out but the engine was still in pretty much good shape. It was amazing.
Now, my other question is my brother in law advised me I should change the "transmission oil filter" when I change transmission oil too. Is it correct? I usually change the (automatic) transmision oil every year or 20 miles or less. However, probably changing the transmission oil is difficult and time-consuming so my mechanic did not change it. He was also reluctant to change the oil brake as it took so long time for him. But I did change my (brake) master cylinder on my LX 92 Accord and its brake worked fine again at 220K miles. Now that LX 92 is "history" but my Dad still drives it around. LOL.
All my cars are now Honda including my brand-new Accord hybrid 2005 at less than 1K miles, with a voice activated Navi. system that runs so fast as a state-of-the-art automobile. It "jumps" and runs fast as a Mustang of 300+ HP. I love it. May be next year or sooner I will sell this Accord 95 of 200K miles to buy another Accord Hybrid. It should be a very good and justified reason (or a good make-up reason) to my wife that I should buy another new Honda and...(and incurring more auto loans...). LOL.
Thank you very much guys for your valuable advices.
Thanks
The seat belt on the drivers side doesnt retract well anymore.
Often the belt gets caught in the door when I leave the car.
Perhaps this is normal wear and tear on the seat belt mechanism after so many miles. Just wondering if anyone has a similar problem and if anyone tried to repair this, roughly how much should it cost?
Thanks
It would be difficult to use a small bottle of touchup paint to repair
this. Any techniques/tips to repair this properly?
Thanks
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/techman41973/detail?.dir=/b3c1&- .dnm=a5c3.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/techman41973/detail?.dir=/b3c1&- .dnm=c98a.jpg&.src=ph
Don't forget to flush the radiator, P/S fluid and tranny fluid as recommended in the owner's manual.
My 89LXi (16+yrs/204k miles) still has the
original radiator and P/S pump. The original engine and tranny have not burnt any oil at all.
I'm afraid its body will be gone/rusted before the engine/tranny goes.
Honda Accord LX is a great car and very reliable. Unfortunately I had a very bad experience with my previous 2003 Honda Accord LX, and perhaps I was very very unlucky. I bought this LX in May 2003 and asked the dealer to install an alarm system on it. Both the car and the alarm system had been running great. Last April (2004), all of sudden, the alarm went off and did not stop, the parking lights kept flashing after I pressed the LOCK button on my key, supposedly the alarm sounded only once, and the parking light flashed once. I had to press the UNLOCK button and locked the car manually. I brought the car back to the dealer several times and the dealer changed new parts (twice), charged the battery (once) and unplugged and plugged the alarm system. Finally I returned the car back to the dealer and got my money back. I guess that I was really unlucky. Since then, I have fear about installing any electrical accessories on new cars. I assume that a large number of people have installed alarm systems on their Accord, well
No more oil refill since then.
Your mechanic is right about the tranny oil filter. You can't replace the filter w/out deassemble the unit. Just drain and fill the tranny. That's what I have been doing for my 89LXi. The tranny is original with 204K miles and counting.
That's how I clean & protect all cars' my seat belts.
The retraction is much better after I clean it.